still having hatch pull down problems
still having hatch pull down problems
i am still having troubles with my hatch pull down it went up when i replaced it but now it wont go back down and idk y is the switch suposed to have power going to it anyways plz help me i have have some pics of the wiring
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181403499.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181403499.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181415586.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181425610.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181441851.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181449866.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...018145979.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181520405.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181534513.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181542605.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181403499.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181403499.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181415586.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181425610.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181441851.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181449866.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...018145979.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181520405.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181534513.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...181542605.jpg/
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: still having hatch pull down problems
Wiring looks fine. The white wire with small black connector doesn't connect to anything for your model year. It was used in late 89 thru early 91 only to provide a switched ground to turn on and off the hatch light.
Unplug the large white connector on the blue wire that plugs into the red/white stripe wire. Check that the red/white stripe wire has power. If so, then the problem is either the striker-sensing switch or reversing switch.
Someone has replaced the original motor with the new style motor, which is a direct drop in replacement for the original motor and separate clear plastic motor housing.
Lon Salgren
Unplug the large white connector on the blue wire that plugs into the red/white stripe wire. Check that the red/white stripe wire has power. If so, then the problem is either the striker-sensing switch or reversing switch.
Someone has replaced the original motor with the new style motor, which is a direct drop in replacement for the original motor and separate clear plastic motor housing.
Lon Salgren
Re: still having hatch pull down problems
Wiring looks fine. The white wire with small black connector doesn't connect to anything for your model year. It was used in late 89 thru early 91 only to provide a switched ground to turn on and off the hatch light.
Unplug the large white connector on the blue wire that plugs into the red/white stripe wire. Check that the red/white stripe wire has power. If so, then the problem is either the striker-sensing switch or reversing switch.
Someone has replaced the original motor with the new style motor, which is a direct drop in replacement for the original motor and separate clear plastic motor housing.
Lon Salgren
Unplug the large white connector on the blue wire that plugs into the red/white stripe wire. Check that the red/white stripe wire has power. If so, then the problem is either the striker-sensing switch or reversing switch.
Someone has replaced the original motor with the new style motor, which is a direct drop in replacement for the original motor and separate clear plastic motor housing.
Lon Salgren
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: still having hatch pull down problems
You're holding it in this photo.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...018145979.jpg/
It attaches in front of the latch (as you look at the latch from the rear of the car) with a single hex-head screw.
The striker-sensing switch starts the up or down cycle. The reversing switch ends the up or down cycle.
Lon
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...018145979.jpg/
It attaches in front of the latch (as you look at the latch from the rear of the car) with a single hex-head screw.
The striker-sensing switch starts the up or down cycle. The reversing switch ends the up or down cycle.
Lon
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Westminster, Md.
Car: 1989 Iroc
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen posi 3.73
Re: still having hatch pull down problems
Wiring looks fine. The white wire with small black connector doesn't connect to anything for your model year. It was used in late 89 thru early 91 only to provide a switched ground to turn on and off the hatch light.
Unplug the large white connector on the blue wire that plugs into the red/white stripe wire. Check that the red/white stripe wire has power. If so, then the problem is either the striker-sensing switch or reversing switch.
Someone has replaced the original motor with the new style motor, which is a direct drop in replacement for the original motor and separate clear plastic motor housing.
Lon Salgren
Unplug the large white connector on the blue wire that plugs into the red/white stripe wire. Check that the red/white stripe wire has power. If so, then the problem is either the striker-sensing switch or reversing switch.
Someone has replaced the original motor with the new style motor, which is a direct drop in replacement for the original motor and separate clear plastic motor housing.
Lon Salgren
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: still having hatch pull down problems
First, let me explain that my description of the problem and possible soltution only apply to the 86-early 91 hatch pull-down unit. That style of pull-down unit is what is shown in OP photos above.
Now to your answer. The red/white stripe wire has constant 12 volts. When you refer to pushing the button on the center console, that is the optional hatch release button to trigger the hatch release solenoid. That is powered on a separate circuit. The power wire in that case is black with a black connector on the end that is plugged into the end of the hatch release solenoid. It is only energized when the button is pressed. There is a separate ground wire with a serrated ring-terminal on each end that connects to the 10mm screw attaching the solenoid to the latch assy. The other end of the ground wire connects to the body ground location below the pull-down unit. The ground wire MUST be in place or the solenoid won't work since it it electrically isolated from ground by the guides in the track.
Lon Salgren
Now to your answer. The red/white stripe wire has constant 12 volts. When you refer to pushing the button on the center console, that is the optional hatch release button to trigger the hatch release solenoid. That is powered on a separate circuit. The power wire in that case is black with a black connector on the end that is plugged into the end of the hatch release solenoid. It is only energized when the button is pressed. There is a separate ground wire with a serrated ring-terminal on each end that connects to the 10mm screw attaching the solenoid to the latch assy. The other end of the ground wire connects to the body ground location below the pull-down unit. The ground wire MUST be in place or the solenoid won't work since it it electrically isolated from ground by the guides in the track.
Lon Salgren
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Re: still having hatch pull down problems
This '86 I just bought a month ago, it wouldn't finish closing the rear hatch.
I opted for a quicker, cheaper and easier solution. I un-bolted the little electric motor, then adjusted the sliders down to where it looked like they normally stopped. Next, I drilled some 1/8" holes through the sliders and their tracks, and put screws through my new holes.
Then I test-closed the hatch very gently. The height was still 1/8" up, so I re-did those last few steps. This time it sat right, so I drilled more holes and added more screws. Lastly, I unplugged the wiring from the motor, and replaced the trim.
A free, permanent solution.
I opted for a quicker, cheaper and easier solution. I un-bolted the little electric motor, then adjusted the sliders down to where it looked like they normally stopped. Next, I drilled some 1/8" holes through the sliders and their tracks, and put screws through my new holes.
Then I test-closed the hatch very gently. The height was still 1/8" up, so I re-did those last few steps. This time it sat right, so I drilled more holes and added more screws. Lastly, I unplugged the wiring from the motor, and replaced the trim.
A free, permanent solution.
Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
From: massachusets
Car: 87 z28 stock
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Re: still having hatch pull down problems
This '86 I just bought a month ago, it wouldn't finish closing the rear hatch.
I opted for a quicker, cheaper and easier solution. I un-bolted the little electric motor, then adjusted the sliders down to where it looked like they normally stopped. Next, I drilled some 1/8" holes through the sliders and their tracks, and put screws through my new holes.
Then I test-closed the hatch very gently. The height was still 1/8" up, so I re-did those last few steps. This time it sat right, so I drilled more holes and added more screws. Lastly, I unplugged the wiring from the motor, and replaced the trim.
A free, permanent solution.
I opted for a quicker, cheaper and easier solution. I un-bolted the little electric motor, then adjusted the sliders down to where it looked like they normally stopped. Next, I drilled some 1/8" holes through the sliders and their tracks, and put screws through my new holes.
Then I test-closed the hatch very gently. The height was still 1/8" up, so I re-did those last few steps. This time it sat right, so I drilled more holes and added more screws. Lastly, I unplugged the wiring from the motor, and replaced the trim.
A free, permanent solution.
have you had any issues with rattling or squeaking from back there?
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