Kornis

I have everything disconnected but the cluster will not come out. Seems the Steering column is in the way. Do I have to remove all that as well? I do not have a tilt wheel either.

Veaceonee

iTrader: (1)

Should just be able to loosen the bolts in the support holding the colum up. If i remember, you dont even need to remove them, just loosen.

Kornis

Had to take the bolts out for the steering column, I got the cluster out and used graphite on the speedo cable. After inspecting the speedo, it seems it may be the problem and not the cable. The speedo is making a very small noise when I turn the back piece and the needle jumps all the way around. Its a 120 MPH speedo but not original. I have the original and it does not act the same way. I put the 85 back in but now of course, I can't get my hand in there to get the cable back on. I have gorilla hands so I am not sure how I am going to get back there, getting off was easy, used a screwdriver to push the clip back and it popped right off. Amy suggestions, I know there is someone with hands like mine that can get in there easily.

Kornis

Need to take a break before I really break something. I just cannot get the speedo cable on to button this thing up. I do not know how you all get your hands in there, I can't even get close. Am I going to have to pull top of dash off?

Johnny B

iTrader: (1)

Try a long flathead screwdriver and push the housing onto the cluster.If you do take the dash off you can use long needle nose vise grips to hold the cable housing and push the cluster onto the cable.The vise grips go through the top of the dash in.front of the speaker if I remember right

paulo57509

I don't recall there being much (if any) access to the back of the speedo from the top of the carrier.

I do it this way. Drop the column and then do this:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...63-post10.html

You can reach through the "hole" and hold the cable stationary while you push the cluster into the carrier and seat the cable this way.

Torque the column bolts to spec. This is important as I recall. You want the column to break away or collapse in a wreck.

Kornis

Well I got the cable on, thought I had in pace and tried to start up car to test everything, Came on a sec, then nothing, everything went out.

Pull cluster back and found a bulb had come loose and was behind it. Fixed all that and got it back in. Now gotta figure out why there is power, nothing comes on, no lights etc et c etc. Hoping its just a fuse, just gotta find it

paulo57509

Before putting the cluster back in check the connectors attached to the carrier:



and the printed circuit for damage (both sides):

Kornis

Went back to car, had power for a sec then out again, pulled the cluster completely out. Found a burnt mark on back of it. I guess the cluster might be gone now, not sure though. Still waiting for the car to see if power comes back. Will it start if all ok without the cluster in it?

paulo57509

It should start without the cluster installed, but I've never tried it.

Rule of thumb: When ever working with anything electrical, disconnect the battery first.

Kornis

Here is what I found

Kornis

Camaro is completely out to lunch, nothing comes on, cluster has been removed, no lights nothing at starter etc. I guess I have to start looking for a blown fuse, I hope at least.

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

What does it circuit lead to (bulb-gauge)? Hopefully just blew a gauge/bulb fuse.
The cluster has to be fully seated when reinstalled or it will not work properly.
Ive started y car w/out the cluster several times, no qwerks.
Anotherway to re-attach the cable is from the bottom, after emoving the access panel.

paulo57509

This is from my '87 MY FSM electrical diagnosis manual.

There are two fuses that feed the cluster; INST and GAGE fuses. The INST fuse feeds just the gauge illumination. The GAGE fuse feeds the gages, warning lights, ignition switch, injectors, ECM, etc.

I'd look for a blown fuse first. Then I'd try to find out why the fuse(s) blew. If I'm reading the connector pinouts correctly, the burnt trace is the 12v feed to the cluster. The trace right next to it is Ground. Never the two shall meet.

Kornis

Well had a good morning so far. I hooked the battery back up and without the cluster in. The car came back to life and started. Weird but I am not going to complain. Removed the battery again and reinstalled the Cluster. Hooked the battery back up, and the car started. I even drove it around a bit to make sure of no problems. I noticed the speedo is about 4 to 5 MPH lower then gauge, I can live with that. When I turn on the lights, I am not sure , they appear to be off. The light on the radio goes completely off, I have to assume they should be on but not. Hopefully that is a blown fuse and all can be corrected. If its the cluster, then I get to shop for a new one. The lights for the High beam and turn signals work so its at least in a drivable state. I used a screwdriver to push the cable back onto the cluster, That seemed a lot easier then trying to get someone's hand in there.
Thanks for all the quick assistance on here. Great dialog and help. Thanks again.
Also, I know better then to work with electrical stuff and not disconnect the battery. Honestly it totally slipped my mind, but it will not the next time.

Kornis

Well, went to work on Dash some more today and the dash lights no longer work. The High Beam indicator, turn signals etc all work, just no dash lights.
I checked the fuse for the Gages and that seems fine, as well as all gages do work. What fuse if its not the gauge fuse, controls the dash lights. As noted above I did have a small mishap due to not disconnecting the battery, but everything went back to normal except the dash lights. If the fuse I checked is the one, could it be the cluster itself, I do notice that the radio light goes out when I turn the light son. I believe that is also hook into the interior dash lights as well. Number 9 on the diagram is fine, not blown

Kornis

Just to add, the running lights do work in the rear and front. So not sure, but maybe the cluster is bad

Kornis

Evidently the fuse box diagram I have is wrong. There is a 5 amp fuse for the INST, that is blown, will need to get one before I and see if it fixes the problem, I believe it will since I did short that out earlier.

paulo57509

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...21-post14.html