I've been collecting these gauges over the course of a few years. Two were mounted on the A-pillar, two more below the centre vent, a couple more on the shelf in my shop. At one point I had removed one of the factory gauges and had my tach stuffed in there.
I finally put the whole pile together and built this panel to fit all but two of my collection. The AFR and vacuum gauges still hang from the centre vent.
All in all I'm quite happy with the results. I still have to extend the turn signal and high beam indicator wiring to some LEDs but other than that, it's good to go.
I'd have gone for all nine as there's room in the dash itself but the view is obscurred by the ignition switch and the tilt mechanism. I'll build another little panel to hang from the side of the pod that has the cigar lighter and defroster switch.

 

The installed view.

 

I think I'd swap oil temp and volts, as long as the lights are still on you know the volts are coming lol.

Soon as I start collecting gauges I'll be doing the same, I'd like to retain the SES and Airbag lights as well as all the warning lights though.

 

Fair comment about swapping the oil temp and volt gauges. I cooked an engine once due to excessive oil temps (and coolant) but being a little old school, the trio of gauges we used to use were coolant temps, oil pressure and volts. Or maybe I'm partial to voltage seeing as that I'm an electrician... As far as the SES light is concerned, not having a computer eliminated the need for one. As it is, the bottom two gauges took up the space normally occupied by the warning lights. I've no brake indicator at the moment either which is something I'll have to address when I had the lights for the turn signal and high beam indicator.

 

Ah so I assume your running a carb. I'm sticking with fuel injection for the moment. If I ever to change the fuel system it will be to ditch the tbi, get a carb manifold and use a like a fast efi or some other fuel injection conversion kit. Something that comes with a self tuning computer.

 

Yes sir. That's correct. Carbed engine. There's that old school approach again. Mind you this is a Gen1 SBC here so...
Now if we're talking an LS application, the last swap I was involved with utilized a carb style intake with the Holley self-learning EFI throttle body. It didn't work so well on the LSX454 so a change was made to an 850 Holley HP series carb. Trouble with that too. What we're finding is that the GMPP single plane intake doesn't do such a good job of mixture distribution. Or so at least that's what the data is indicating. More testing now that spring is here.

 

I'd just be adding it to the 305. No engine swaps.

 

The self learning EFI systems seem to be the trend, and I much prefer the look of the carb style throttle body with injectors too.
Regardless, you could easily do 5 gauges, possibly 6, and leave room for your warning lights. Or build a full gauge panel as I've done and simply extend the circuits from the wiring connectors for whatever you want to have operational and use small LED lamps for indication.

 

ticky tack on my part but I would have to hit that temp gauge with some satin black to satisfy my OCD.

 

Yes. I call that one "spot".
I actually ordered a 2nd gauge to match the rest however that one is sitting back in my shop 2500 miles away (as I've recently moved). I'd thought about touching it up but for now, it'll have to do.
(Good eye you've got there srs )

 

Just wondering I'm in the middle of swapped my factory gauges for aftermarket ones. Did you have to change any of the sending units to make them work?

 

Will need to use the pressure and temp sending units that come with the gauges. Fuel sending unit you will need to make sure you get a gauge that reads the correct ohm range of the stock unit.

 

Yea that's gonna be a problem I didn't get any sending units with mine

 

Did you buy them new or used? What brand are they?

 

There used and I have no clue of the brand there ebay ones

 

Eeeeh that's gonna be an issue. Doesn't say anything on the gauge face or anything?

 

Yeah. Pretty much.
You could try a side by side test to see what kind of results you get. Have the engine up to temp, connect the factory gauge (using jumpers from the bulk head connector in the dash), check the reading and then hook up you new gauge and see what you get. You should be able to follow the circuit board wiring to the connectors to determine which wires to pin out. It's how I extended my fuel gauge circuit and will do the same for my signals, etc.