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So yesterday I noticed when I got in the car, the HVAC fan wasn't working. Drove it all day and nothing, then when I was about to pull it into the garage it came on and worked fine.
Then this morning, it wasn't working again.
So I pull the HVAC control out and was surprised to see this
This is behind the HVAC controls, what is it for?
Does anyone know if this wire has anything to do with the fan? It's brown, and has a connector on it. It was located right around the back of the control.
Any ideas why it would have gotten so hot? No fuses have blown in the car either. I'm wondering if there was just a loose connection causing heat at the connector?
Check this one out too. In engine bay on Firewall, controls HIGH Speed.
Its for the blower motor HIGH SPEED ONLY. It's located along the firewall at the end of the passenger valve cover is. Around that location. THESE CONNECTORS ARE NOTORIOUS FOR SHORTING OUT. Check your's out. If its chrispy, cut the connector out and eliminate it. Tie the two wires together with weatherproof wire nut or somthing.
Solder and heat shrink tubing would be a better option than a wire nut.
If you still want to retain some kind of connector, consider a connector that the R/C racing car guys use for their batteries; something like a high amp Powerpole.
i have a melted connector too, its the big one next to your melted wire in your pic. i think thats why my ac wont work in my car. im also going to replace the vacuum lines as theyre rotted out
Not to hijack this thread, but having replaced a similar connector I'm curious if anyone knows if a single terminal weather pack connector is a suitable replacement for these high-power wires?
No it isn't-weather pack terminals are only rated to 20A. That brown wire is the main power feed for the climate control-where current flows thru the selector speed switch for the blower on all speeds except high-that comes directly off the battery via the high speed relay. I'd say your selector speed switch is causing too much resistance in that circuit. It's hot with key on so you could run a seperate IGN switched relay to handle the load and remove that connector.