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While this is out is there a good way to test the odometer motor and the one for the speedo?
I am repairing the gears and I have had no speedometer in some time. All other parts tested fine and wiring. Want to make sure this board and motors are functional
i don’t see a thread on 92 Firebird capacitor and resistor repairs just Camaro
Ive repaired several of the clusers with the gear issues, only had one with a burned up motor.
The way I've tested them is by installing in the car and going for a drive.. it would be nice to have a bench top test stand
Ive repaired several of the clusers with the gear issues, only had one with a burned up motor.
The way I've tested them is by installing in the car and going for a drive.. it would be nice to have a bench top test stand
I agree. Not sure how to do that just yet. Would like to supply power to the board to make sure it all works. I'm not in to electronics lol. So, I'm doing my research. It's one thing to know both motors work it's another to know they work installed on board. I will see what happens when I install it back in car.
There is a thread here when the gear repair kits were being discussed/checked out that someone had a GM setup used for bench testing (I think) a Google search of this site may find it better.
There is a thread here when the gear repair kits were being discussed/checked out that someone had a GM setup used for bench testing (I think) a Google search of this site may find it better.
Input signal to drive speedometer is a square wave. Not sure the voltage range, I would guess 0-12V. Frequency is proportional to 4000 pulse per mile, given your axle gear ratio and tire diameter.
You might be able to hit it with a PWM driver and maybe it would come to life? Also need to give it Batt (+) and Batt (-) at the appropriate terminal screws.
Input signal to drive speedometer is a square wave. Not sure the voltage range, I would guess 0-12V. Frequency is proportional to 4000 pulse per mile, given your axle gear ratio and tire diameter.
You might be able to hit it with a PWM driver and maybe it would come to life? Also need to give it Batt (+) and Batt (-) at the appropriate terminal screws.
been looking for a schematic of the board to determine what the three terminal screws are.
Looking at the colored wire traces in my graphic, it appears that speedometer might have two B+ terminals (red trace), one B- (black trace), and the signal (green trace).
I don't think this will help you any further, but there is another graphic in post #1717 where I was conceptualizing how I might make Speedhut gauges work with the green screen, but I never did anything beyond that.
While you've got the gauge pod out, gently rub the screen copper contacts with a pencil eraser to clean off oxidation so the connections are good and clean when you put it back together. You can do the same to the connector contacts on the car harness.
By the way, I'm in your neck of the woods, we could maybe be neighbors and not even know it.
While you've got the gauge pod out, gently rub the screen copper contacts with a pencil eraser to clean off oxidation so the connections are good and clean when you put it back together. You can do the same to the connector contacts on the car harness.
By the way, I'm in your neck of the woods, we could maybe be neighbors and not even know it.
You might be able to hit it with a PWM driver and maybe it would come to life? Also need to give it Batt (+) and Batt (-) at the appropriate terminal screws.
Last edited by ermandadana; Mar 11, 2023 at 10:20 AM.
