didnt know were else to put this but here it goes, the engine went south at the track sat, spun a bearing so it is done for awhile, im not sure on exactly what bearing spun but it is terminal, so i am done for the year. it sucks bad , but opens my doors up to alot more options (383). I wont even be digging into it to see what actualy happened till we get settled in the new house. so you all know how priorities go. the funny thing is it when it went south the run was a 13.5 at 83. lol go figure, it was going to be one hell of a run i think it would have been mid 12's if it would have held togeather

 

That sucks man. Same thing happend to me a wile back.

 

What about an LS1...?

 

Yea don't know if you have re-built a LT1 but with machine work and parts I wish I would have gone the LS1 would have been about the same money for LS1 combo.And I havent had it in the car yet.

 

what was all in your lt1? mine is just stock with a k&n intake and some programming.

 

While your building the next engine, you could probably buy another used LT1 for cheap and throw it in. If you still wanted to just cruise around next summer.

Sean and I were discussing about the LSX route on messenger. I've considered it myself. The LS1 would be a lot more work. To change out the exhaust, transmission, wiring, and then modify/change other things is a big step to take, especially when its all just been redone/figured out to get the LT1 going. Still, not a bad option.

 

i have done the lt1 stuff before and i am going to stay with the lt1, my machinest is going to hook me up when it is time, heads and all machine worrk for the 383 for a good price, so it will be a 383 lt1. and like matt said it just dont make any since to convert to ls1, to much to change over

 

BEFORE YOU MAKE THE MISTAKE

A 396 does not cost much more to build than a 383.

Build the 396 LT1.

That is a 4.030" bore with a 3.875" stroke crankshaft.

It is a common stroker to build with the LT1.

 

whats a good price on trick flow heads for the lt1?

 

Sean,

Sorry to hear about the LT1, I know its not fun when you car is down. I say stick with the LT1 though, the LS1 is a great engine but like Firebat said not only would it be alot of work, it just wouldn't be economical to switch especially after all the time/money we've spent just to get the LT1 in. Anyway, I think now would be a good time to build that 383 or 396.

Good Luck!

Jay

 

it will be one of those two when i get it started.

 

Howdy. I'm actually in the middle of a 383 LT1 build myself right now. Its going to be carbureted (don't feel like pulling the fuel pump and doing programming...and its cheaper to carb.) but heres my thoughts:

The 383 is a 3.75 stroke...this requires clearancing the rods from the block, and making sure the rods aren't coming into contact with the cam. I didn't take a whole lot of material from the block, but I will say that having the 3.875 stroke crank (396) would make me a little bit nervous. Even if I didn't break through the block (while clearancing the rods) I would still think about using hardblok to ensure no leaks or cracks down the road in the bottom of the block.

A 383 is a nice easy way to go to add cubes, and for all the hassle of the 396, you're only picking up 13 cubic inches...and granted its probably more torque due to the longer stroke...I still don't think its totally worth it. Here's a run down of my combo so far if you're interested...

1994 LT1 Block - .030 over / .015 deck height above piston / ~.055 quench
Eagle Cast Steel Crank 3.75 Stroke
Eagle SIR Rods - Full Floating - 5.7 Length
Speed Pro Skirt-Coated Pistons (2 Valve Relief Flat Tops)
ARP Main Studs

LT1 Heads - Heavily ported / polished
180 cc intake runners
70 cc exhaust runners
53 cc comb. chambers
ARP Screw in studs
Guide plates
COMP Cams Bee-hive springs / keepers / retainers - THE ONLY WAY TO GO!

Comp Cams Camshaft: 230/234 .570/.576 with 1.6 Rocker
1.6 Ratio Roller Rockers

This will work out to 11:1 compression and hopefully around 500hp/500ftlbs. Car Craft did a very similar build a few months ago for an Impala. They were .498/.498 lift with a set of mild aftermarket LT1 heads and got 450/450, so I'm hoping to exceed that with a 725cfm Street Demon.

Feel free to ask questions. I've still got valve clearance...rod/cam clearance...balancing to worry about, so I'm still fresh!

Ty

 

Another option. There is a guy on camaroz28.com who mounted the optispark in a Gen I sbc in the distributor location. Not a vortec dist, a LT1 optispark. The guy is not telling his secret but it might not be the hardest thing for a mechanic to figure out, but who knows. I dont know, changing the optispark isn't that bad(especially in thirdgens), and ported LT1/LT4 heads can still flow very well.

 

i was also thinking that same thing, i will figure all that out once i get ready to dig into it. if u dont mind me asking what kind of money u have it it so fare. i am panning on around 5k for the whole build

 

Sean, there is a guy locally here had a 383 built for his Impala with a set of LE Stage 2 heads and a custom grind cam (stated "around" .600 .600 with 1.6 rockers, but can't disclose the lift of the cam) with this quote

Car ran:
1/8 mile: 7.89 @ 87 MPH
1/4 mile: 12.38 @ 109 MPH - all motor, 4350 lbs. race weight

That was in a '96 Impala SS

 

imo, hone the cylinders, put it back together with new bearings and stuff.
spend the money you saved on heads and cam from advanced induction. 430+rwhp is not a big deal with stock displacement.

 

Hey Sean...

Lets see...money so far...I'm probably somewhere around $3000...maybe $3500 so far, and thats overshooting if anything. I did all my head work (valves / seats) excluding the surface job so that saved me some money. In the end I'll be well under $5000 but thats b/c I'm carbureting the motor. I'd like to go FI but...

$300 throttle body
$300 injectors
$200 programming (at LEAST)
$200 new fuel pump (the car was a TBI car)
$200 new opti

So as you can see, its easier for me to buy a $250 intake and drop my demon on it and run the life outta her.

Hope I've helped some. PM or email me if u have questions.

tylerprinzivalli@yahoo.com

Ty

 

ty, thanks for the info looks like it will run me around 3500 total, heads and intake included. my machinist is the best in this area and is hooking me up, and also the vave train was just bought not 2 months ago so that isnt an issue. well if it is still ok and thanks for the info

DIGGLER- i will have to pull it out anyways to do that so i am the kinda person that isnt going to halfass stuff so it wouldnt be worth my time to just do that. and the induction system would run 5k so no savings there

 

What a piece of junk!!!!! ;-)