How did everyone get the stock temp gauge to function correctly? Right now I am planning on drilling the ls head and tap it for the stock sensor. Has anyone found a sensor that will screw into the stock ls head and work with the third gen gauge? Or is there an adapter fitting that will work with the stock sensor and the ls head?

 

I believe you can use the 98 Camaro temp sensor, which has a 3 wire connection. I bought one off of speartech for about $25 when i bought my harness. One wire goes to the computer and one wire goes to the stock temp gauge.

 

Thats what I did

 

I took the stock sensor (which is bigger), and very carefully ground it down to the correct size, then threaded it with the correct size for the head. Others did it that way too cause I got the idea from either here or LS1tech, the thread that gave me the idea had the correct size to thread it as well.

You h ave to be carefull when threading it, or you will break it in half and have to start over.

I didn't feel like possibly ruining my heads.

 

Drill and tap the waterpump...much easier.

 

I didn't mention that I have a LS2. The water pump is totaly different and does not have the flat spot on top that is easy to thread. I think I am going to cut the sensor down on the lathe and rethread it. How close is the stock sensor to the hawks headers? It does not seem like there is much room.

 

That's not were you drill it.......here's what I did to mine.

 

My original water pump was tapped, the damn thing started sqeeling so I had to replace it. Took off the heater box and used an adapter to plug into the block on the rear passenger side. This way I don't have to retap the water pump every time it's replaced. Plus it also looks better, as in, you can't see it.

 

I turned mine down and rethreaded it as well. fit's great

 

I used the LS1 sensor (1998 Camaro) thats 3-wire. Please note that if you use this sensor, the resistance range is slightly off from the thirdgen sensor, so what I did, is, verifiying with a scantool when my motor was at 220°, I pulled the temp need off the gauge and stuck it back on the 220 mark.
The dealership I work for has this sensor in stock, because we are the GM supplier to Fbodymotorsports.

 

I still really dont see the big deal about drilling and tapping the head. Its stock location and gives you the most accurate temp info right where you want it at the head especially seeing as the #7 cyl is the failure prone cyl. I did it in the car in 10 minutes with an angle drill. Out of the car it would have taken 5 minutes.

Its pretty difficult to ruin NPT threads as they are tapered plus even if you did for some dumb reason wreck the thread ( although i have never seen it done ) you could just go up a size and use a reducer if need be. Even then if the worst of worst happens and you destroy the head its aluminum you can simply have it welded and its good to go. Failing that if its a stock head you can buy them for a couple hundred bucks a pair all over the place. Heck you can get brand new 243 castings for 300 pr bare ( LS6 heads )