I was wondering why you guys were making the decision to go with a lt1, instead of a ls1. Just curious thats all.

 

PRICE OF SWAP was my reason, well at first. don't need to change the Kmember, no need for special headers that cost 500+ all in all alot cheaper,

 

Costs. Exhaust isn't bad. Tuning is cheap and really easy, well simple tuning. The LT1 sounds better.

The real reason was my LT1 was in the perfect place at the perfect time. My brother's friend wrecked his 95 Z28 at the same time I was looking for an engine. Got a deal on it.

 

It's been said; $$.

 

I see, i was wondering if it was cost or some performance thing i dont know about lol. Its always cool to find out peoples motives behind things.

 

When I did my swap the LS1 mounts were not availible. They came availible halfway through my swap. With as much money I have in my swap the LS1 swap would have been about the same price.

 

i would say the cost of swap parts is cheaper to go LT1. You can get LT1's on average alot cheaper than LS1's. Plus there are 2000 dollar cam/heads packages that will dyno over 400whp on a stock bottom end LT1. you cant argue with that performance for the dollar.

 

Except there are cheaper head/cam packages for an LS1, there isn't even an argument for which is better power fro your dollar. I'm not bashing on you, but LS1's specifically the 5.3, is ridiculous power for your dollar.

Said cheaper head and cam package.

 

that just came out and seems like a good bargain. i have yet to see power numbers but i guess it will be up over 400whp as well

thing is, if you throw that on a LS1, i think your gonna spend more money on the LS1 in the long run since you cant get LS1s cheaper than LT1's.

when its all said and done i think the LS1 would be abit more dollar.

NOW the 5.3 is a another matter. those are goin for cheap, and are good deals and will make great power. thats the hot setup, but its only 327 inches

I aggree tho, LS1 owns all in power making ability. But if your on a budget an LT1 is NOT as bad as ppl make them out to be

 

Good, you can get a set of ported heads and a cam cheaper, thats great, but you forgot to add in the cost of the engine, the cost of the transmission, the cost of all the specific LS1 swap parts that increase the price, go ahead and add a good set of rockers to your LS1 cam head swap and the price just keeps going up.

For the 360-440 RWHP range, chances are the LT1 is going to get you there with less $ spent.

 

As said above $$$$ But now the LS1's have come down a lot as compared to when I bought my LT1. But the LSX conversion parts have not

 

Thanks guys, always wondered the reason. I didnt get to choose what to put in my car. I think it would be cool to put more informative topics in here like this. Get some general intrest going. Show off your work and opinions.

 

If cost is an issue, why go LT1 at all? It seems to me that the LT1 is stuck in the middle between two far more popular platforms. The standard small block and the LSx are both far more popular, with more parts and more support available.

Why not just stick with a gen-1 350 instead of an LT1? You have no optispark to deal with, and with modern aftermarket head technology there's really nothing that you can do to an LT1 that you can't do to the Gen 1, and usually for less money.

 

Number of parts doesnt really matter much if the parts that are available for the LT1 work.
Trying to piece together some cobbled together setup for a gen 1 to match the LT1's performance and drivability, not to mention ease of working on it, just doesnt seem to make sense to waste the time chasing down this little bit, trying to save this dollar here and that one there, just on intake manifold choice alone an upgraded TPI runners and baseplate runs what you'll spend on a good running LT1, let alone heads etc, too much of a chase to play catch up, the LS1 I really only see a benefit if shooting for 450rwhp + NA, or if you want bragging rights to being faster for having less mods done, but spending more money.

 

The LT1 OBDI computer is what makes it nicer over the gen i. Although you can rig up a obdii TPI computer on a gen i.

The ability to not have to change speedo gears to get a correct speed reading every time you change gears or tire size is nice. All you have to do is reprogram the computer to get the speedo right. The ability to change how the 4L60E shifts is another. Also, no chip burning, its flash.

Yeah, the gen I and LSx platforms have more aftermarket but in a way that makes it more confusing to how to upgrade the engine because there are so many choices. Examples: I know with a LT1 there is basically 2 good companies who build crate 355, 383, and 396 LT1s. And I know 396 isn't worth the extra cubes so that narrows it down to 355 or 383. There is one guy that ports heads really well. If ported heads aren't enough then there are maybe 3 companies who make LT4 heads. The point is that its not to hard to decide what to do with these engines or decide which vender to go with.

The opti isn't the greatest thing. Does make a cleaner engine bay but looks aren't everything. A custom made FORD DIS coil pack setup can be made for probably less than $200 and would eliminate high spark through the opti. No high voltage spark through the opti really helps. An aftermarket cpu eliminates the opti completely.

 

For me when I did the swap the LS1 swaps were still fairly unknown territory with not much knowledge base..

If I were to do it again I would go LSx.. but I do like my LT motor alot and it does make a shade over 400rwhp now, but the big cube lsx fund is started for whenever this engine goes boom and then it will be on to engine/tranny combo number 5.

 

To be honest, better internals in a factory motor as apposed to having to buy said parts to equal out the same type of parts that come from the factory. They have PM rods, hyper pistons and a better crank than the Gen 1 motors.

Don't start on "having to deal with the optispark" as that has been beaten like a dead horse, I have 155k miles on a stock opti unit with a cap/rotor change and it gets taken to 6200 rpm quite regularly with no problems. None of the stock heads can compare to the LT1 heads except the vortecs and then you're out more money to buy a vortec intake. The packages that LE has for around the same price as a set of good heads for a Gen 1 can still make more power than a Gen 1 but not as much as an LS1 with the same mods, plus like Firebat said, the computer management is far superior than the TPI units and the LT1 will get better MPG with said mods due to this and in the end, you will have less money in an LT1 making 400hp than you will with a Gen 1 to make the same amount of HP. This isn't talking about going to a carb and ditching the electronics, I mean taking an L98 and getting it to 400hp at the wheels.

Anyhow the reason I went with the LT1 was cost at the time, but refused to get one without a 6-speed.

 

im going with the lt1 swap, mainly because i got a 94 Z A4 with front end damage for 1200, cheap enough for the whole car, and after its parted i will get my money back for mods

 

hahaha.....wow....

LS1s are pigs... LOL....

??? post above got deleted???

 

I wouldn't waste the time and effort to swap in a LT1......if costs was that big of concern, you would be better off sticking with the old school SBC.

Prices have come down so much on LS motors now it really isn't as expensive as you might think.

 

They're still more than the LT1s are, and you can't build a old school SBC to make the power of the LT1 without putting in as much money as you would in a stock LT1 and retain the MPG and power, and for the money it took to get the old school to make the power of the LT1 you can build an LT1 to make the power of an LS1 (allbeit only 30hp more than an LT1), it's a never ending battle.

 

Seems it always comes down to "cubic dollars", doesn't it?

If you want a good, economical, reliable engine that will run with the big dogs, spray an LG4.

Somehow, I don't think that meets most people's image of a performance engine.

I considered LT1, very seriously, including locating and pricing them. L56 was a "must", whether staying Gen I, or going to Gen II or Gen III. Just sticking in a stock LT1 would have been a drop in power from what I had in the Gen I engine. Improving either the Gen I or Gen II involved expense that brought it up to the cost of a stock Gen III. Hard to reconcile the improved economy of Gen II or III over Gen I for the same power.

I was very close to going LT1, but since the premise was "dream car", I went with the configuration that has the most potential for growth while staying daily-driveable. No doubt, the LT1 would have been less expensive. I've seen a lot of fast LTx and LSx cars at the track, but when it comes to which is faster and more prolific, it's no contest.

 

The choice was easy for me... I feel that swapping in the LS1 is just easier also. The wiring and electronics seem more simple to me...even though the motor is alittle more "techy" than the LT1.

Some of my reasons... Lighter, more power, more rev happy, easy wiring, NO OPTI, easy cam swaps, no coolant in the intake (basically easier to work on imo), and boy do they respond to mods...

Yes you can put some money into an LT1 and give it the extra boost to meet up with an LS1. But put half that money into the LS1 and see what ya get. They are just such responsive, efficient, well rounded engines.

Also, if you would have told me Ide be getting 28mpg on the highway, and running low 11's, I would have called you crazy.

J.

Oh...and Im not bashing LT1s by the way. By all means, if thats what you wanna use, GREAT! Just that Ide never use one. Especially with the availability and price drop of the LS motors.

 

I paid $1500 for a 2004 5.3 With everything i need.

I was looking at the LT1's but IMO, They dont look factory in the engine bay due to how far the intake sits below the cowl. Their dont have the power potential LS1's do, and with all the work id do to swap it in, i might as well put an LS1 in.

The LS1 Engine wiring system is essentially completely contained within itself, the stock manifolds fit in, and flow just as well as any shorty thirdgen headers, the oil filter is moved inwards making longtubes easy. Even fuel system was easy, all peices are avaliable for a bolt in. I made everything myself.

Imo, if you havnt done anything yet, go LS1.

 

The F-body LT1 wiring system is contained within itself also, and they do have the power potential that the LS1s do, but have to spend money on it. LT1s are easier to put in due to not having to buy special motor mounts, or k-members just to bolt the motor in, fuel system.....two hoses from the fuel lines to the fuel rail (a little more work if it was a carb or TBI engine). Third gen d-port headers bolt right up.

 

I think you'll have to admit that only is true up to a point. There's a cross-over point where no amount of money is going to increase the power as much as the LSx will be able to achieve. The LSx is one example where the factory's clean sheet design paid off.

Really, the sum of it all is it costs less to put an LT1 into a 3rd gen than LSx. You could make an argument for more of the old school hot rod sound, which the LSx simply doesn't have. And some of the mentioned compatibility with 3rd gen parts (exhaust, for instance). Beyond that, you really can't make a case for any other advantage.

 

Oh I'll agree totally on it, some people are trying to make it seem that the LSx will just drop in and work, and that it's easier to install which it isn't, just trying to make sure that people who haven't done the swap decide to go with the LSx route based on some things said and then give up on the swap due to having to buy the k-member (which they don't) or get frustrated when things start being not so easy or they ran into an unexpected cost.

 

Klortho I have to slightly...well not disagree, but maybe retort?? Haha...trying to say what I need without sounding like Im arguing.

If the LT1 wiring harness is AS simple as an LS1, then Ide have to say that they are about equal as far as install difficulty goes. I say that because you dont NEED a new k-member. The only things you need, are motor mounts. Which arent very expensive at all. And if you are going with a 6speed, you'll need a new trans crossmember. Again, not terribly expensive and you'd need one of those with either motor + six speed.

Fuel hook ups are a wash...depending on your method of plumbing. For instance, I used a 4th gen tank so it was cake. I did another for someone that I just used the "popular" regulator, and it was simple as well.

There is one area that I will agree that having the old school specs of the LT1 are definetly advantage, but it only applies to people that want headers. The stock LT1 manifolds, and the LS1 manifolds will work fine. Y-pipe can be a challenge, but there are fairly simple solutions. IF you want headers, then that changes... The y-pipe becomes the most difficult part in my opinion. Im sure you've seen my thread on getting the Hawks stuff to "work"...

So to wrap it up, I think, depending on your choice of set up, the exhaust is the only thing that makes the LS1 more troublesome from an install difficulty aspect. Not to mention if you actually want headers, you only have one VERY cost intensive choice, versus a nearly endless choice of older style SBC headers that will work.

haha... When you think about it, there really isnt anything to "argue" about. Its not like many of us are swapping in ford 5.0s into our f-bodies You should see the arguements between the blue oval fans because a LOT of those guys are usings LS1s in their foxes these days. hehe...

J.

 

Admittingly, yes. The exhaust will be a challenge.And im sure theres some things ive done that other swap guys cant do.

I just made plates to bolt onto the k-member. Then 1/8" Steel strap bent into a U shape, bolted it onto the motor, positioned the motor in the car, tacked the straps to the plate, un bolted them, lifted the motor out. Ta-da. Perfect motor mounts. I got the idea from Speartech. Worked like a charm.

K-member mod's need to be done for both engines if you want to keep the 4th gen A/c. Companies also make brackets for both engines to keep thirdgen A/c.

With all that said, being 17 years old with an LSx in my car, that i put in myself, ill be pretty darn proud. Lots of work, with an awesome final result. Ive done some engineering work with my boss, to determine a special exhaust routing. This should end up with true duals, that dump out each side before the rear wheels.
----------
Oh, and a big big big bigggg thanks to ghettocruiser for helping me out with some info for my swap!

 

Because they have yet to discover the world crushing capabilities of the LS_ series of engines!!
An LT1 swap may be cheaper, but I wouldn't want the hassle of the Optispark and the somewhat limited aftermarket available for them. Honestly, I'd rather do a 400 small block swap with a T56 than a LT1 swap. But that's me.

 

LOL Another opti hater A LT1 can be made to be a crusher but do the same mods to a LS and you have a Big crusher. Most people buy the cheapest opti they can find and expect it to last 100,000 or better.

 

I think it goes like this:

1) LT1's are dirt cheap regardless how you get them... allready in your car, your bother had one sitting behind his house... somebody crashed a car and gave it to you... whatever

2) Parts are cheaper for LT1's minus the OPTI. Buy a good one... loctite the rotor screws... and forget about it. (assuming the vent system is working).

3) It's 1955 Technology that may net ~50hp less than LS1 for $1000-$2000 less... so put a few hundred more into the LT1 and make up for the power loss and still make same power for cheaper.

4) When you beat that LS1 with your LT1 then who looks like a bigger fool?

If your starting from scratch and have nothing, I would lean towards LS1 but the price is usually at least 50-100% more for the LS1. Is it really worth it? Wasnt for me (boosted forged pump gas only 7psi and 650hp). Boosted LT1's also have better head deck seal strength (5 bolts) compared to 4 bolt LS1 (higher boost causes problems).

LS1's are nice motors... and are a bigger investment.

 

This debate will never be solved...it all comes down to personal prefernce or what you can get at a good price, for me it was the lt1 cuz it was the right price at the right time, but i have nothing against ls1's cuz they are nasty right from the factory

 

Here is the thing... LS1s arent really cost prohibitive anymore. There are LS2 and the such that are starting to become more available. The LS1 and the 5.3L are becoming plenty afordable.

Heck, I picked up my 99 Z28 parts car for 6k. That included a nice head/cam low mile LS1, fully built T56, strange 12-bolt, etc. And I made a lot of money selling the left over 99 parts. It was a vert, and I got almost 1k for the top alone!!!

As for cost of parts. The ls1 is pretty cheap when it comes to upgrades. A head/cam kit will give you a HUGE power jump, and it doesnt cost as much as you'd think

Like I said before...There shouldnt be any "LT1 vs. LS1" arguing. They are both good motors. They both have quirks...although no one wants to change that opti more than once. haha. Just saying...

All I know is....I miss driving my 87... and I can friggin wait to dump everything into the 86 with the LS1 sporting a new, slightly bigger cam. I learned a lot from the last swap...so this one should be alittle better

J.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ponti...spagenameZWDVW

Typical used LT1 (good condition):
1993 LT1 Trans Am Runs Great (not a parts car)
US $1,525.00 (4 bids) SOLD

Typical used LS1 Parts car (Crashed?):
"Heck, I picked up my 99 Z28 parts car for 6k".
Like I said before...There shouldnt be any "LT1 vs. LS1" arguing.

The above parts LS1 = ~4x more than the running driving LT1.

As you can see, I only said how much cheaper the LT1 is compared to any LS car.... sounds like your arguing that LS's are cheap... they simply are not. LS motors ARE AWESOME though no doubt.. just more expensive...

So, to answer the questions why choose LT1 vs LS1 it comes down to COST, in this case, 293% More

 

Why do you have "SOLD" written in? That car is at 1500 bucks with 5 days left...

My point about the price was there are good deals out there on LS1s. If you want to get picky...you could go find yourself a TPI motor for 300 bucks and mod it to LT1 specs. Or go find an old school SBC and mod it to run with the TPI and LT1... It goes on and on. Thats why I keep saying "there shoudnt be an argument" about it. And im not arguing. Just stating facts. I still shop for LS1s. My old Cherokee might get one if I find the deal that Im looking for. So Ive seen the trend in prices shift over the past few years.

LS1s ARE getting cheaper. I paid 6k for my parts car, but look at my sig. Thats JUST the motor mods. Doesnt include all the trans mods, and the rear, etc. Mine was a low 11 sec parts car. And it had a TON of good parts on it...some of which I used, and some which I made good money on. Hence why I used it as an example. You need to be good at shopping around, because the deals are out there.

Besides, I see LS1/6spd pull outs with all accessories going for under 2500 easy...and they dont have 140k + miles on them. THey are sub 25k range.

Anyway, all Im sayin is...do some shopping. An LS1 might not be as far out of reach as you think it is.

J.

 

Yea... I dont know where SOLD came in I thought I hit "COMPLETED LISTINGS"! haha ohh hahahah me bad. Wait till it sells... then it might be more realistic like my original post... LS1 = Only ~100% more $$

But yea LS1 are getting cheaper, still not cheap...

Put it another way,, why would LS1 be cheap as LT1.. that would not make sense.

And you can never get TPI to run as LT1 (mod for mod) cause of intake and head design.. yes even LT1 stock castings vary and porting varies from castings also... (not talking stock anymore obviously..) Now, TPI MAY be cheaper to hit stock LT1 power than LT1... and for LT1 Power from TPI you should just jump to LS1... HUGE improvement (most people dont know the LT1 has 360 degree timing.... that means phenomenal increase over spark control over TPI could ever imagine...

Now... better exampless.. engine for engine... LS1 = 103.8% More $$ than LT1 STOCK

And.. for the LS1 cost of $5299 you could take LT1 cost of $2000? (it didnt even sell at $2600 - too much $$) then buy heads + CAM for the difference = $2699!!! (assuming it even sold at $2600!!!) (Actually the www.advancedinduction.com 200CNC LT1 package is only $1975 for that setup + CAM which MAKES 620hp FLYWHEEL (compared to 325hp LS1 FLywheel)...
NOW I ask PLEASE QUIT acting like a 620hp LT1 is the same as a 325hp LS1 (YES!! All That at the same invested cost).. DOLLAR FOR DOLLAR... LT1 KICKS LS1 ***. (Yes I know for LS1 price of $5299 + www.advancedinduction.com heads then power will beat LT1 + $2000 but then your at another ~100% Price increase well beyond... and Since we're talking $ for $...

In the end and beginning LT1 WILL make more power for less.. and is why people do it.
Is that good enough comparison? Need more data? Sorry for being so brutally forward... but I did all this comparing... judging... compromising.. consulting... and realized I'll save a few thousand $$ and get the same power.

AND... LS1 has 4 head bolts and LT1 has 5,,, so happy Boosting over 15psi reliably (reliably means years of bad gas and street racing year round)!!!!

Prices quoted from "ENDED EBAY AUCTIONS FOR COMPARISON" You could get either motor 50-75% cheaper if you look around)
LT1 Engine COMPLETE= $2600 DID NOT SELL TOO MUCH $$ May have sold for $1500???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-LT...spagenameZWDVW


LS1 COMPLETE = US $5,299.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-Tr...spagenameZWDVW

 

By the way ghettocruiser, your car is F-in nice... I had that exact body style for ever, then put a BBC in it and tore everything up it was awesome.. then had to sell due to gas costs.. sold it to buddy so it's still near. But really that car you have (color.. stance =WS6... bad ***!!) vbmenu_register("postmenu_3631903", true); Plus the handling of that EXACT car is no where compareable to the newer Fbody's... I had 1987 WS6 and that thing was TIGHT with 130,000, drove dads brand new at the time 1995 TA and that thing was HUGE BOAT!!! Could not believe difference just from shocks and sway bars...

Funny story, I had that car under car cover in driveway... few people actually asked what the hell I had under it... they demanded I remove cover,,, they really thought it was new FOrd GT... ha... It has real low and wide stance compared to anything after 92... great car

 

Man, you're insane. Stop finding the highest priced stuff you can and posting to prove that LS1s are so much more than LT1s. That's a pretty weak way to make an argument.
That is a high assed price for the LS1/T56. You can get them alot less than that if you know where to look. And heads cam packages can be had for a sh*tton less than that. You can get a complete setup from Texas Speed for less than $2000 (starting at $1529 and going up to $2749 for AFRs).
For $1669, you get
Those heads flow right around 300CFM on the intake side. You can get ~400-430 RHWP with that setup and maintain drivability.
You want to know why LS1 style motors are more expensive than LS1 style motors? Because they are being put into everything from Mustangs to EVOs to BMWs to Miatas. They are a better design with more potential mod for mod. That's why they are more expensive. You get what you pay for.

 

Believe it or not but this is what I spent to start off my swap:

LS-1-$500 brought down from $750
T-56-$800 with shiping from Kentucky. Got it on LS1Tech.com
Wiring Harness - $10 from same junkyard I picked up the LS-1
Aluminum Driveshat - $20 from same junkard.
Computer - $50 from another junkyard
LS1 swap guide- $20 Ebay
Fourth Gen Leather Interior - $250 locally from southtexasfbodies.com
Motor Mounts and Tranny mount - About $150-$200 from Spohn

I really did my shopping around and found everthing I needed cheap. Now I got a bad *** ride. Just look around and you will see that the LS1 is the best bang for the buck.

 

Holy shebuz. I wish I could find deals like that. $1380 for whole shooting match. You've got around $2000 in that swap, good job!

 

You guys, those prices are what people are paying. I did not look for most expensive.. I looked for what was for sale.

If you quit acting like I made all that up then we can get somewhere. If not.. then were done and you LS1 guys will keep acting like LS1's are cheaper than LT1s.

I got a free saturn that runs fine but I dont go acting like everybody can get a free car...

Going rates are what are on Ebay. THE LS1 SOLD.. the LT1 Didnt.

This isnt about how good of a deal one or two people got on LS1.. cause Im sure you can get FREE LT1's if you look as hard for a good deal.
----------
Exactly my point.. NORMAL cost is what the motors sell for on EBAY... NORMAL prices for LT1's are 1/3rd the cost.

 

Yeah but since when is EBAY the standard for what things go for? I bet there are WAY less engine sales on ebay, mostly due to shipping. Its a pain in the butt to ship things like motors and trans. Most people look local. Or atleast local enough for them to get it. I drove from south eastern PA down to Baltimore, MD to pick up my parts car.

THATS where you find the deals. Local sales. And you find those local sales, on boards like this, and DEFINETLY on LS1tech. Thats where I found mine.

Sometimes people pay insane prices on EBAY because they dont know how to look and shop locally. Yes you can get awesome deals on EBAY...but you can also get shanked very easily on price if you dont do your homework.

No one said any of that info was false or made up... Just that the source happens to be higher than what we KNOW people are actually paying.

J.

 

Why is it that people cant seem to get over the price debate and which may be better, both the lt1 and the ls1 are good engines and there really is no reason to debate anything....

 

I never said you made stuff up. Just that you seemed to find the most expensive parts you could and posted them. That's not the NORMAL price for the entire market.... that's the NORMAL price on eBay. Little bit of a difference.
And I don't know wherer you got I was saying LS1s are less than LT1s.... I never said that. I know they are more money. I said they were better (no opti, better flowing heads, better flowing intake, better aftermarket support, all of them have aluminum blocks and 6 bolt mains).

 

my local performance shop/junkyard deals with Lsx stuff all the time and most drop outs are in the 4000-5000 dollar range for lower mileage stuff. like this one, 21K miles ls1/t56
http://jjsautomotiveracing.com/20025...tedropout.aspx

from time to time, you can find a LS1/t56 for 3000-4000 tho. depends on the mileage tho.

LS2's are more like 5-7K for dropouts


and most of the guys that had LT1's dumped them for LSx's because of optispark and new technology of the lsx stuff. I know alot of guys that had bad opti's

 

[quote=ghettocruiser;3632696]Yeah but since when is EBAY the standard for what things go for? I bet there are WAY less engine sales on ebay, mostly due to shipping. Its a pain in the butt to ship things like motors and trans. Most people look local. Or atleast local enough for them to get it. I drove from south eastern PA down to Baltimore, MD to pick up my parts car.

THATS where you find the deals. Local sales. And you find those local sales, on boards like this, and DEFINETLY on LS1tech. Thats where I found mine."

AGain, I PULLED LT1 AND LS1 on EBAY. DIRECT COMPARISON.

U WILL FIND CHEAPER LS1 AND LT1 elsewhere. LT1 will ALWAYS be MUCH CHEAPER.
----------

YES LS1 HAVE ALUMINUM BLOCKS WHICH ARE NOT GOOD FOR HIGH HP AND RPM compared to IRON, plus LS1 has less head bolts = high boost problems. That's a seperate issue and should not be started on this thread since NO LT1 has problems related to main bolt strength... try to stick to topic.. WHY LT1 over LS1 = CHEAPER.

This should have been a one or two post topic.... LT1 is CHEAPER. THat's why people choose it.

 

That's pretty much the only reason. People buy them because they are cheaper. I was going with LT1 until I discovered to make the same power as a LS1 with headers, I'd need full bolt on/cammed LT1.
Aluminum blocks are bad for high RPM and high horsepower...I guess that's why the LS7s have a 7000RPM redline factory and make 505bhp reliably. I know that in EXTREME applications, iron blocks are better than aluminum. But, if I'm going nuts with it like that, I'd still rather have the LS based 6.0L iron block with 6 bolt mains.
LT1= cheaper
LS1= better

 

The above are the prices I know are common. I also had the OPTI problems but I locktite my rotor screws and not problem since. Other than simply wanting a NEW style motor with direct fire coils... there's nothing improved on the LS1 in terms of reliability or anything else compared to LT1. LS1 may be ~100lbs lighter, but that's it. I even hear of some LS motors having problmes with the Oil Pump? That's no good and cant be cheap if that gives out.

One more thing, LT1's get cooler head water since they are reverse flow, not that it makes a huge difference but cooler heads is better for BOOST and fighting spark knock. Read a couple people that noticed a difference... not too sure if I could believe that but in Theory that's what GM intended all along (more timing, less spark knock). LS1's have standard flow.

Yes, the LS1 will always make MORE POWER with less mods than LT1.. but if your starting from scratch and have a set budget, and want 500hp, the LT1 will get you there for much cheaper. That's all I've ever said, some people here are comparing other stuff which is not what this post is about.
Ontop of this, if plan to boost the heck out of either motor, the LT1 WILL require less mods/cost since it has stronger IRON block and 5 bolts/cyl heads (LS1 begins to show head flex at high boost levels so ORINGING needs to occur at earlier stages than with LT1).

Now, the normal person would probably agree it is way cooler to do LS1 swap than LT1 swap but power is power, and you can get there cheaper with LT1.

My next car will be LS because whatever body style I get (G8, GTO, Camaro) will have the LS motor but I'll have to pay the price to get it that's for sure!

 

I went with the cheaper but wanted better after a complet re-build of the LT1 it would have been cheaper if I had went better.