ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Yeah there are a lot of posts in here...More than I thought there would be haha. Speaking of which, is this page 13 now??

Anyway... the car LOVED ingesting 65 degree air this morning. It ran awesome. Ran good all weekend really. Now to see if the tuner can squeeze me in this week.

J.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Yep - it's "THE THREAD THAT WILL NOT DIE"!!

Great to hear! Isn't it nice when a cheap/easy mod gives results like that?

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

ok. i was wondering since then you would be able to watch the max airflow on the maf sensor. you would also be able to see which cells on the tune have knock instead of just seeing a number. when racing the ls1's in the past the knock sensors were a little sensitive. we would turn them back ever so slightly. good luck. whoever tunes it should be able to take care of all that for you. you can read some about it on hptuners web site.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I can watch my MAF...but it doesnt mean much to me. Im afraid Im not too up on all the PCM lingo. Im trying to learn, as Ide like to just get HP Tuners and tweak things myself. But for now....Im gonna let the pros handle it. I know Im throwing a code for my MAF frequency being out of range. Its passing the 5000Hz mark way low in the RPM band. Not sure whats up with that. It has an SLP maf on it though, so Im ditching that in favor of a GM unit. Either the 80mm Z06 maf, or a stock f-body...whichever my tuner wants to use.

Rapid motorsports will be handling the tune. I have faith that it'll be right when it comes back from there. Actually...Rapid built the short block thats in the car right now... It was a long time ago, but its their motor basically.

Hopefully it goes good!!

J.

1bdbrd

iTrader: (1)

Talk to your tuner about just going speed density. A good friend of mine has it on his mild bolt on z28 that drives year round with little to no problems. Sub zero starts to the 100+ degree summer days, doesn't matter. Same with another friend that has a 408 stroker. It won't be worth much in terms of power but you could simplify your intake path and also not have to buy a new MAF for the new tune.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Ive given thought to going SD. However with PA's climate shifts, I figured MAF would be easier to tune. Again..Im somewhat PCM dumb...but Ive read lots of people that say SD is fine all year round and lots that say it can be trouble. Ill talk to him though...Im going to chat with him about some changes I want to make with my cam selection too...so we'll work all that in Im sure. haha.

I would VERY much like to delete the MAF appearance wise. Ive been giving throughts to making my intake mostly metal and getting rid of all the joints and clamps. And without the maf, I could concievably make it all one piece. In the mean time, Im not worried about buying new MAFs...I have 3 new ones sitting around. One is a stocker that is all set up with elbows and adapters to fit right into my existing intake track. Lets hope he chooses the 85mm one so I can just pop it right in.

Oh...looks like my tune is semi scheduled for Thursday. If he cant squeeze me in Thursday, it wont be for a week or so.

J.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

UGH. I apologize if this offends anyone but...

Everyone has their own opinions on this, but I think that going SD (if you don't have to) is really a dumb idea. Maybe if you live in a place where the weather barely changes & you don't have any real altitude changes to deal with, maybe then it would be OK.

But what you're doing is forcing your ECM to make more of an educated guess regarding the amount of air going into the engine, rather than measuring it. WHY? Because you want better aesthetics?? Because you don't want to spend the extra money for the MAF sensor? (If you're already doing an LS swap, the cost of a MAF sensor is such a ridiculously small percentage of the total cost that that excuse is borderline ridiculous.)

I know that there are quite a few cars running around on a speed-density tune, & probably performing pretty well - but that's more of a testament to the engineering that went into the engines & control systems than an endorsement of the SD tune.

Regardless of what anyone says, what it boils down to is intentionally degrading an engine's control system.

But that's just my 2c...

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

I'm with v8rumble on this one. Until you get to the point where the maf is holding you back, it's a much more forgiving air metering setup.

Best of luck with the tuners. I hope the best shop in your area does you right Make sure and post your experiences. We need more thirdgen-friendly places!

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Haha...yeah I dont expect to ever go SD...but Im still going to talk to him about it. They produce some FAST cars out of that shop and everything Ive heard about there tuning capabilities is fantastic. I couldnt get an appointment with them when I was still driving my 87, so I went with Harris. I cant say much about Harris, because they apparently couldnt get their computer to communicated with my PCM...something about the plug being messed up. Not sure what thats about since my scan gauge reads 100% fine off that same connector. Anyway, I had to leave my car with them for a few days. Mike at Rapid says he can do it while I wait!

I wrecked my 87 on the way back from Harris So Im going to be EXTRA careful on my way back from Rapid...just to avoid any weird coincidences haha.

J.

1bdbrd

iTrader: (1)

I'm just going by my experience with it having helped tune both setups. The weather here is just as unpredictable as anywhere else and one of the people I know using SD drives his everyday as its his only car. I don't know if it really performs any better, but if I could do that and simplify my intake setup then its worth its weight to me. Plus when you are havng a full tune done anyway it shouldn't cost anything extra or not much extra.

That's just my 2 pennies worth as well.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Gonna stick with MAF. For now anyways...

Sorta bad news. Turns out my PCM is locked. SOB!!!! So either the previous owner locked it and either didnt know or didnt want to tell me, or Harris locked it. Which would suck because they didnt even get to tune it.

Mike was really cool about it, and Im just going to get another PCM for it, and take it back on the 20th. Im going to get a 2002 PCM for a T56...as opposed to my 99 PCM for an auto which Im running now. Also Mike cringed when I told him that it was an SLP MAF sensor, and was glad to hear I had a brand new Z06 MAF ready to go. So that made me feel better. I KNOW he can make it run better than it is.

Anyway...Phoenix Performance is a killer shop! That place is awesome. I only met one of the guys from that shop, and he was really nice. Me, Mike and the guy stood around talking about my car for awhile. Cant say enough how cool of a guy Mike was...even after we set all this up for nothing basically.

So thats where I stand. More money, more time... Gonna order the PCM today so it has time to get here. Nothing more to do but wait.

J.

EDIT:...Ordered a used 2002 T56 PCM. $85 from wait4me!!! You can NOT beat that! On its way...

Was playing with this guy on my way home from the bank today

camaromt

I am glad you have done this a couple of times because I am looking into doing one. (although i will be having a shop do it for me). This project is getting very expensive very quickly. Here is a list of part I think I might need to do the bare bones just enough to get it drivable swap.

LS1 engine + installation $4500
Motor mounts plus bushings $170
Fuel pump ($165 -Racetronix 255 fuel pump) $179
Fuel pressure regulator: $160
Or incline fuel pump $200
Wire harness (painless) $995
Electronic to mechanical speedo box: $299 (89 models and earlier)
Ls1 swap fuel line kit: if needed $249
01 ac compressor if needed $272
new a/c lines if needed $150
a/c braket $300
Throttle cable and bracket $55-25

ECU $75-100

If there is something I do need or don't need will you please let me know?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Hmm..you seem to have some things you need and then dont need...and some repeats almost.

First...I will say that the stickies in this forum, as well as over on ls1tech have a REALLY good list of parts that you'll need.

But as a quick overview.

-You'll need the motor and trans.
-Conversion motor mounts.
-Trans crossmember.
-Aftermarket fuel pump OR 4th gen fuel tank. Which will basically bolt in, you'll just need to figure out the fuel line which isnt hard.
-Wiring. NO need to spend that much on wiring. You can use the factory LS1 harness. Its not hard. Most the time it comes with your engine. If not...speartech is a MUCH better choice than painless I think. Cheaper too.
-You should get the PCM with the motor...but if not, there are good places to get stock PCM for cheap...under $100. I just got one to redo mine.
-Throttle cable, just use a stock non-traction control LS1 cable.
-You'll need to get some pieces to make an air intake.

Your gauges...you'll need to check the stickies...depending on your speedo and what not you might need a conversion box and you'll want to put the thirdgen senders on the LS1 for your other gauges. I used all autometer, so I didnt mess with any of that.

Thats basically it. Thats it for making it drivable. You mentioned a/c stuff...but thats not needed to make it driveable. If you want a/c, you can use the thirdgen compressor, but you'll need conversion brackets. If you use the LS1 a/c compressor, you need to notch the k-member. Then get hoses to hook it up.

Like I said, there are TONS of good threads here and on tech for doing this swap. If you are having a shop do it, I would pick a shop that's done it before. Otherwise you could be looking at a lot of dough with a sketchy outcome.

Good luck.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Threw in my overhead console yesterday...if anyone's interested.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...ll-wiring.html

New computers should be here tomorrow or tuesday, then its just the waiting game till its time to try it again.

J.

camaromt

If I use the 3rd generation fuel tank, and upgrade the fuel pump, will I still need new fuel lines? If figure that since I am swapping to a better pump and that is it, I can just keep the fuel lines where they are and hook up the new fuel pump where the old one went.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Whats up guys. Just figured Ide update you alittle. Monday is the dyno tune!!! But I did some odds and ends this weekend.

First, I replaced my wheel bearings. What a pain. They still arent adjusted right. I dont think the method that everyone says they use actually works. haha. Ill figure that out soon enough. I did get it feeling better though.

Then I adjusted my pinion angle. For the first time..... since I built the cars... Duh. It was +3 degrees hahaha. So I dialed it back to -2ish. It feels much better. WAY less driveline shock when shifting or when getting on/off the gas. And it feels smoother. I want to change my u-joints soon too.

The last thing I did was install a heater control valve. FINALLY. Im going to start a thread because I know there isnt much info on putting a valve in the system. But I will tell you guys that it worked great. Assuming your car had one to being with. My 86 didnt...thats why I put the 87's HVAC wiring/controls into the 86. I stopped at autozone and got a can of refrigerent to charge my A/C. I guess I have a leak. I was going to get it vac'd and chaged, but decided to try this first. WOW...a/c blows much cooler now with the heater control valve. Got ice cold.

Ill put the link to the thread once I write it up...with part numbers and all.

J.

EDIT: Here's the link to the heater control valve thread.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-valve-ls.html

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

How's your new PCM working out? Is wait4me an ebay seller?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Im not sure if wait4me is on ebay... They have a website and you can just call with what you need. I will say that the guy I talked to was really cool. He had what I needed, and YOU CAN NOT BEAT his price. He had the exact PCM I needed on hand, shipped it out minutes after I ordered, and I got it in a couple days.

Im not sure how it works...because I cant use it yet. Its a stock PCM, and my car wont like that haha. Mike is going to set it up tomorrow when I get there. I really hope it goes smooth. He's got a lot of things to tweak...since its a swap car, he'll have a ton of DTCs to turn off. Sucks that he cant even read my current PCM...Im irritated about that.

J.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Whats up guys. Had my duno tune this morning. First...new PCM worked great. No issues there. He calibrated things for the new Z06 MAF sensor that I put in place of the SLP one. He really had terrible things to say about the SLP unit.

The car sounded great on the dyno. However the numbers were crap. He noticed an inconsitency between the long term fuel trims for banks 1 & 2. Bank 1 was always about 10% higher. So we started talking about exhaust leaks and things of that nature. He turned off the LTFTs and tried messing with the fuel and spark tables.

Basically, it wanted more fuel. So he gave it more fuel, but it didnt change the results. What's happening is, one bank is asking for more fuel, and the other already has enough/too much, and they are conflicting.

We came to the conclusion, due to the read outs and teh smoke, that I have a ring issue. He suspects numbers 5 and 7. I agree. It would explain the random smoke, oil consumption, oil in the intake, and power loss.

On the upside, the car runs MUCH better now. He really made the thing smoother and easier to drive. I cant believe how much better it is. My part throttle, low speed drivability is way better. Its easier to take off from a stop, and doesnt buck or surge at all. Not bad considering he did it all on the dyno with no street driving. So Im VERY happy there. Mikey knows his crap.

My options. Im not sure what to do. Im going to just let it go for now, and keep my eye on the oil level. Might motivate me to hook up the low oil level light finally. I think I might just tear it down, and replace the rings for now. He had some cam suggestions for me as well. So I might just tear it down and do rings/bearings/cam, slap it back together and tune it again. THAT should net me some serious power. Its down at least 50-60 at the wheels as it sits right now. Bummer.

Its cool..just money and time right?

here's a vid. I have some more from different angles, Ill put them up another time. Just watch your volume. My camera doesnt like loud sounds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBcoSfkAPRo

J.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Uhhh, maybe "I are dumm" here, but let me ask a real goofy/basic question -

Are you sure that the O2 leads aren't switched from one side to the other??

I'm honestly not meaning to be insulting here, but if the O2 lead for bank 1 is actually connected to bank 2's O2 sensor, then the ECM is going to go nuts trying to dump fuel in one side & lean out the other (while it's continuously "correcting" the wrong side in each case)...

Knowing you, & hearing what you've had to say about the guy who was doing your tuning, I figure that it's probably not an issue - but I troubleshoot things for a living, & I've found that it usually pays to not overlook the simple stuff (or, to put it a little differently, I've learned to always ask the "stupid" questions)...

I'm glad that he's gotten your car running so much better now...

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Technically, if the O2 leads were switched, it shouldnt really matter. Both banks of the motor should be fairly equal, if not VERY equal. If there are differences, they gotta be small. Mine are large. SO something is wrong with one side of the motor. What we think is happening is, the oil in the cylinder is diluting the fuel enough to trick it into thinking it needs more fuel to compensate. Then you add more fuel...but it does nothing. We added fuel two times, and each time it took power away, even though everything was screaming for more fuel. Thanks for the suggestion tho! Im pretty sure they are on the correct side. Its set up just as it was in the donor car. Minus the rear O2s of course.

I have a couple options for checking out the issue. One is intake leaks. Two is faulty injectors. Three is exhaust leaks. Four is head/ring issues. I dont think its an intake problem. First thing Im going to do is do a leakdown test on the motor. That will tell me a lot. Next Ill check the exhaust best I can. If I dont find any issues there, Im going to swap injector sides and see if the problem follows the injectors. I have a feeling its rings. The way that thing chews through oil yet still runs good just makes sense.

I just gotta check it out and go from there. But its going to be awhile. I have some beach trips coming up, and Im planning on taking the car down to Outer Banks in a week. Should be ok...Im just going to take some oil with me and TRY not to beat it too much.

J.

andrew69_04

iTrader: (1)

not going to post your numbers??

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Crap... I meant to. I was waiting for them to email me my dyno sheets beacuse their printer was down. And I was going to put it all together in a video with the other shots.

The numbers were VERY disappointing. I can tell in my butt dyno that the car was losing power since I first built the 87. I dont recall the exact numbers (reason for wanting the sheets), but it was somewhere in the 360hp/340tq range. My combo should be putting a good deal more than that out.

With the ported and milled 5.3s and the fast 90, and the rest of the mods, it should have been over 400.

Im debating on what to do. I might just have Mike at Rapid build me a short block with a new cam in it...then just slap my heads and intake and what not on it. Either that, or I might have Rapid rebuild my bottom end and put the new cam in at the same time. Im weighing my options at this point.

Either way...Ill have to start an engine build thread once it gets underway. Im looking for a major power boost with the new cam choice and a few other odds and ends. Should be fun!

J.

andrew69_04

iTrader: (1)

are you cam'd now?

Ya something is up with your combo. i know when we had my s10 on the dyno i was only making 365, and nothing would make it change. we put a smoke machine to it and low and behold....intake leak..3 of them LOL. Fixed that and redynod at 395. it made a diff LOL

89RsPower!

wow sorry to hear it... how many miles are on the bottom end that you'd suspect it to be so worn out?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Its not the combo...its something mechanical. The combo should run sweeeeet haha. And yes, its cammed. But its a pretty poor cam choice. So Im most likely upgrading AT LEAST the cam if I decide to just re-ring the engine.

Im not sure how many miles are on the bottom end. WAY under 40k miles. The donor car had 30k on it...so this motor wasnt in there very long. I dont think its a matter of wear...its a matter of build quality. Something that these particular motors had issues with. Ring issues on 5 and 7. Ive heard rumors of this particular builder putting out some poor products here and there.

I have a slight feeling that the previous owner was clued into this issue...but there's a chance he never diagnosed it.

The car still runs great. I have no trouble getting loose while banging gears and I have no trouble moving like a slingshot on the highway. Even Mike said that while doing the dyno pulls it "felt" and "sounded" strong. Just didnt have the numbers. So I look at it as an opportunity to improve on things. Might take me a bit to get some money stashed away, but whatever I build next will be nice. Ive been wanting to build a motor for awhile now. Here's my chance.

Im not upset or mad or anything about the results. Im not a big numbers guy. Im happy that the car is running better now than it ever has, ring issues aside, and that I know I have a problem to track down. Ill get her sorted...

J.

andrew69_04

iTrader: (1)

remember, that 12bolt is eating up some power too. Yeah, numbers dont mean much to me either. i know a few dyno queens that get there A$$'s handed to them on the streets all the time.....you will get it sorted out! Good luck with your new build whenever you get started on it!

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Oh yeah...that big thing is sucking some...but not that much. Its also smoking under WOT. I usually cant see it, because im hauling down the road so the smoke is diluted haha. But watching it on the dyno, its puffing pretty good. One of my vids shows it. He saw the smoke after I told him and said it was oil smoke...I couldnt tell haha. So something is def amiss.

Im still going to test...Im not just going to play on our assumptions. I want to do a leak down and compression test on the WHOLE motor. Ive been avoiding it...to avoid knowing about a problem. haha. But now I gotta dig in. Also...I know there is a test with smoke like you mentioned...but I dont know much about it or how to get it done. So I might look into that, unless something turns up on the other tests.

J.

85camarojunkie

subscribed

B4C-Hawaii

I wish I lived near you. I would work for free to learn 1/4 of what you know.

85camarojunkie

What spindle setup are you using??

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

BELIEVE me man - just doing it is a heck of a learning experience...

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Yup...I didnt know much of anything about LS1 swaps...until I was elbow deep in mine. You dont really need a TON of mechanical ability to pull it off. Just a will to get it finished and a will to learn as you go.

As for the spindle... Its a stock thirdgen spindle modified for the LS1 brake bracket. That "hub" is a turned down stock rotor, and the LS1 rotor fits right over it. I got my spindle assemblies from bigbrakeupgrade.com. It was the spindle, hub, new bearings and brake brackets already assembled and ready to install. Im super glad I went this route.

J.

85camarojunkie

I know about the brake uprade but that spindledont even look like the hubs im used to seeing on the swap, nice job. Are 2inch wheel spacers still needed or can you get smaller ones Didnt know if that setup actually came out a bit further. Maybe have 1/4 to 1/2 inch

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

It does add some width. Im running 1.7" spacers in the front with the 4th gen wheels. Seems to line things up pretty nice.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

THAT should be in the sticky...

Before starting on this project, I didn't have a "ton" of experience - I'd had a couple of fairly basic, short-term jobs (some limited work on large diesel trucks), volunteer pit-crew work on an SCCA road-course car, & I'd done most of the mechanical work on my own vehicles - but I'd never torn down an engine or rearend, or gotten into any transmission (except for changing the clutch with my dad on my very first car). Part of me thinks that I was really pretty dumb to start this project - but with a bit of help from some of my local F-buds, & a lot of determination to get the car running again, I now have the entire driveline in, & I'm hoping to have my new brakes on within a week or two (if I can ever free up a few hours to work on it, that is)!

85camarojunkie

That is the truth. I learned all my stuff by myself. Thats usually the only way to do it. Ive been asking questions on few different threads on how to do the LT1 swap along with the Dash swap cause i have a 94Z parts car. I decided to just switch everything over with the best of my abilities then start asking questions. YOU Wont learn anything unless your willing to screw it up first. It takes tons of screw ups and lots of questions to get it done right.

And on the spacers, i wish there was a front end conversion (like the 4th gen rear) that we could do so we didnt need spacers. Im getting ready to do some fitment of a 4th gen K member sometime. I really would love to see if it works. I read people keep saying that its completly differnt and it will never work. But have they tried??? NO. I plan on taking mine out to clean it so why not slide the other under it if its off, ya know.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

YES...haha. Not all of us are speculating. When I built my first car, I had both suspensions totally apart, and went as far as to slide the 4th gen k-member under the car. You would basically have to turn it into a 3rd gen k-member to get it to fit... I saw no benefit in making it work, because if you got that to work, you'd still need to completely re-fab the strut towers to get the suspension to bolt up. Its just not worth it in my opinion. The fourth gen suspension isnt much better compared to ours, and if I had to choose between running a wheel "adapter" vs. a custom untested front suspension that isnt easily reverseable, Ill run the adapters.

By the way... going on 4 or so years with my Skulte adapters and they havent so much as loosened up or moved since I installed them. I dont consider them spacers...they are considered adapters, since they bolt on, and have their own studs.


But by all means...give it a go. I think I said that before. Ill never tell someone not to try something. If you can make it work, you'll def be a first besides Fatal88...but he didnt just make the k-member fit. It would be nice if someone made a tubular k-member that bolted into a thirdgen, but supported 4th gen front suspension somehow..or atleast the spindle/hub design. Then no spacers would be required like you mentioned. Let us know what you find out!

J.

85camarojunkie

Ive seen the guy that did the whole 4th gen front end on his but thats alot of work. So saying i could get the kmember to bolt up in the frame. what is wrong with the strut towers.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Haha...this might need its own thread... But basically, in order to retain correct suspension geometry, you need to mimic the 4th gen's specs. So the top of the strut tower, would need to accomodate the upper control arm, and also be at the correct distance and orientation from the lower control arm. I would think at the least, you'd have to graft in some of the 4th gen's inner wheel wells. If you dont keep the parts within spec, you will have a heck of a time getting the car aligned correctly.

But its going to take extensive metal work to get the k-member to bolt up...so check that hurdle out first and then see where you stand with the idea. Anythings possible...but some things teeter on the "anythings possible" vs. "worth it given the amount of work" scenarios.

J.

85camarojunkie

well fabing aint a big deal. I can do some welding. BUt i also have time, I HAVE LOTS OF IT. but i guess getting it as close as possible is what i need to figure out. I dont know. It was worth looking into

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

You sound like a pro compared to me I'd changed my own oil, changed the pads on my brakes, and polished my tpi plenum. Beyond that, I'm a computer programmer - so no real mechanical ability there (can think pretty long-term though). I figure if I can do this (with some help from friends and forums), ANYONE with time & money can. All of the information you need is spread between here and ls1tech, and if ls1tech disappeared you'd still probably be fine.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Whats up everyone. Well...the thread dropped back to page two. I havent driven the car in weeks.

EXCEPT FOR YESTERDAY! I figured out my issue. And it was a big dumb dumb mistake on my part.

So...Im doing a leak down test, and checking ignition parts, since it was really stumbling and running like crap. Didnt really find anything. So I decided to pull my injectors, and switch sides, to see if the bank imbalance switched sides.

I pulled the injectors off, and 2 of the 4 on bank 1 were completely packed shut with crud, and one other one was partially blocked. So two of my injectors werent doing anything...much more than dripping anyway.

So I cleaned them out best I could, cleaned out the fuel rail, swapped sides, put on a new fuel filter, and viola. Idle was smooth, revs were smooth, power was back.

Soooo... Now Im gonna pop for some new injectors, because who knows what else is in them. I also dont know how many miles are on mine. Im going to replace the fuel injectors and the fuel rail to be safe. I think Im also going to remove the intake and put new gaskets in, and check it for leaks. Then I gotta get a retune... Mike from Rapid thinks we should see decent gains now that the imbalance is fixed and the injectors are working. Ill just be happy to know I dont have to rebuild right away. It was my fault that the injectors were failing during the tune...now I nkow its one more thing to check out before doing something like that. Would have never thought they were clogging.

Does this mean I dont have ring issues... no. I need to do another leak down test to confirm. But it does mean that the initial fear of the motor taking a crap is gone now haha.

Here is a vid showing how the banks are pretty balanced now. So it DEF fixed that problem. It was way off before. Bank 1 was always about 10% higher for short term fuel trims. *warning..its boring...haha*

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvN9JS4L-N8

Anyway...thats my update. Trying to decide where to get injectors from now. COnfused on the newer styles of injector bodies. I should be in for a re-tune within a month Ide say. But we'll see how things work out.

J.

cam-

SVO 30's are what i run. Couldn't be happier. Three seasons now alllll good. Bought a flow matched set off ebay for around 200 bucks. Plug right in and considering the much higher fuel pressure of LS1's than Ford applications the actual rating is around 40lbs ( depends on who you talk to but thats the general range agreed upon by most I've talk to about it )

But if you really want to play it safe? Go for whatever your tuner recomends and is familiar with tuning so theres no confusion

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Thanks cam... Im gonna check on ebay. Right now, I can get the new style SVO 30# injectors, with a set of FAST intake gaskets for $275 shipped from summit. So thats my best option so far. Im gonna look into the matched sets though... Would the ones from summit not be matched?

Gotta save up some cash first...I have a bunch of MAFs to sell, and some other odds and ends. Should get me the funds I need.

J.

cam-

No clue on whether or not matched makes a difference they were simply the best deal I found in a hurry when i bought them. My engine is a 99 which came with 26lb stockers and it seemed to run fine although when i went for the tune we had a mountain of issues initially and I had scheduled a re-tune once I sorted out the car and upgraded the injectors. IIRC the stock 26lb were at %130 duty cycle so that was not good. Anyways tuning is a bit of a pita but once its done you'll be pleased Im sure

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I have a feeling in some applications where you try to squeeze every little bit of efficency out of a motor having matched injectors is benefitial. I dont know if Ide ever see a difference in my car...but if I could find a matched set for $200, Ide surely jump on them haha.

I was actually surprised at how cheap a set of 30# injectors were. Especially because the ones Im getting are a new design, and supposedly have a better spray pattern. They are actually cheaper than if you find a set of the older, big body style injectors. Weird... My tuner says he's used them, and they work well, so Ill go with them.

I also won an ebay auction for a brand new set of fuel rails, with the dampener included. For a fraction of what just the fuel rail alone costs from GM. Figured if there was gunk in my injectors, it might be elsewhere in the rails. Better safe than sorry.

Car ran great this morning. Just like Mikey said, its running WAY rich now. My WB gauge shows 10.0:1 at WOT. Just another indication that there was actual blockage. Im not getting my hopes up here...but it was basically running on 6 good cylinders, and two poor ones. I might see some gains out of this all said and done. Im also going to install my racetronix upgrade harness... My fuel pressure isnt where I think it should be, or my gauge is inaccurate. Ide like to think that for how much I paid for it, it is spot on. Ill check with a manual gauge when I swap rails, but Im also thinking that the spliced wiring that Im using to power the fuel pump, and the crappy ground behind the rear seat might be limiting the pump. Wiring upgrade cant hurt...

Nice thing about a re-tune is its cheaper than the first tune. I can almost pay for the injectors with the difference. There's a plus.

And on an unrelated subject... Brought the car home last night. Before I did I put the cloth seats that I got awhile back in. I gotta say, they arent as comfy as my leather ones. I miss the side bolster and lumbar supports already. BUT...they arent nearly as hot haha.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I bought my 36 lb injectors from www.fuelinjectorconnection.com

$210 shipped and they were shipped fast

I swapped mine out right on the dyno, so I wouldn't have your issue lol

good luck with the new tune!

-jason

cam-

It doesnt take long to wash out your rings so dont drive it anymore than absolutely nec with the bigger injectors installed and even then baby it. Otherwise sounds like your sorting it out tip top

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Shouldnt be a big issue. I was running 30# injectors before. The tune at part throttle is the same. Its only pig rich at WOT. Should be pretty safe, but I am trying to keep away from WOT. Computer should adjust everything for cruising, and according to my WB, its good until its floored.

At this point, Im just going to save money for the injectors, and it'll be a re-tune mostly for power. I wont be installing the new injectors until the night before the tune. It'll have to make a 40 minute highway drive home, then to work the next day, then to Pheonix Performance. I should be in good shape. Im keeping a close eye on my fuel trims and A/F ratio in the mean time.

J.