Alright I am putting in 4th gen pedals. Mainly because I had an auto before.
Anyway a couple questions.
That little part that comes down and wraps around the clutch master that the U-bolt goes through on the foot well is tight against the stud that holds the lower dash panel up.
Is this normal or too low?
Anway I made some holes and being that the firewall is really spaced out about 1/2 inch away from where the above mentioned bracket naturaly falls I went ahead and drew it tight like people have said, but that just moves the bracket to the firewall and locates the master cylinder further away then normal.
So now the 4th gen pedal doesn't come up as far. What are you guys doing to fix this?
Here's a pic, You can see with the pedal up and the clutch rod at full extension it's close but not there.
I'm afraid when I press the pedal down it's not pushing in the rod far enough.

 

Dude, save yourself a lot of headaches and trouble and buy a set of 3rd gen pedals.

 

not looking to spend money if I don't have to. Also I still have to drill holes so having come this far, no point in stopping.

 

4gen master cylinder

 

I can honestly say that you will probably fiddle with that until you are blue in the face, and in the end, you still wont be 100% satisfied with the fit.

The firewall is different from 4th to 3rd gen. The problem with making that bracket fit to the firewall is, it throws off the master cylinder position. As you seem to be finding out already. Thats what screwed me up with mine.

Plus, the 4th gen bracket doesnt really seem to give much support to the firewall after you drill all the needed holes. There are already so many holes for wiring, that after you cut holes for the m/c, it leaves it pretty flimsy. I can watch my firewall flex like crazy when I push in the clutch.

Not saying that you personally wont be able to make them work... I guess Im just confirming the issues that you are having/going to have. If you can swing a set of thirdgen pedals, it might be better. I just bought a set for my own swap... Im ditching the 4th gen set. Too much aggrivation.

J.

 

Been using 4th gen pedals for over 10k miles without any problems yet. Bolt up the pedals to the brake booster, make your holes and you'll be set.

 

So what did you do to make the bracket on the pedals meet up with the firewall? Just bend it to fit? Or did you make the mastercylinder fit first, then make the bracket match that...

 

I did what I posted, I bolted the pedals to the brake booster, then used a holesaw to make the hole for the clutch to go though, drilled the mounting holes and bolted up the clutch using the factory u-bolt that came with the 4th gen master cylinder.

 

Yeah I did that too and they don't meet up. Did you just run a semi depressed pedal or what?

 

Klortho.. I have no doubt that you got it to work. I just wonder how you possibly got that support bracket to just line up, without having to pull it to the firewall with the bolts.

The thing is..if you make the bracket fit the firewall before drilling holes, then the master isnt lined up very good. If you mount the master somehow first...then draw the bracket in with the bolts, it still pulls the master rod attaching point into a weird spot, and the rod goes in crooked...

Haha..unless my firewall/pedal assembly was just messed up to begin with.

Hope Aaron91RS doesnt mind me posting a pic or two, but maybe it'll help him...

This was my first try. Used the bracket to mark my two mounting holes, then made a template with cardboard and a hole saw to make my bigger hole. Fit perfect in that respect, and hooked up to the pedals with no problem. But here is the angle I was left with.



This is what this slight angle does over time...keep in mind my m/c was used when I got it with unknown miles.



That caused the cylinder walls to get gouged and then fluid was leaking up past the umbrella seals on the master cylinder cylinder.

After messing with it, this is as good as I got it for awhile. Later when I replaced the cylinder I was able to get it alittle more straight, but it still isnt great.



Again...not saying the 4th gen pedals wont work..I just couldnt get the suckers to line up for me.

J.

 

I'll have to check when I get home to see how it is, it's been over 2 years since I did this and don't remember off the top of my head

 

I started to fiddle with this but haven't been able to touch it for several weeks. The 4th gen pedal bracket looks to me like it will provide a template for the MC to the firewall when bolted to the brake MC like Klortho said. My issue is I'm putting this in an '82, when the clutch was cable operated - there's a hole in the "right" spot in the firewall, but it's a straight-in hole, and the MC is (what looks to me) an oval where it mates to the firewall. I was about to make the hole ovate when I had to drop the project to get the "race cars" ready for the season. But, that is next on my list for the LS1/T56 swap.

FWIW, I had to unbolt the support bracket on the top rear of the pedal assembly to fit it up there with everything else (steering column, wiring, etc.) still up there. I think it can be bolted back on and bolted to the car after the pedals are in place. I also didn't have the carpet out of the way, which I plan to rectify when I get back to it.

Also FWIW, this was the one part of the swap that I dreaded most (although the fuel tank is right up there, too).

 

That's how I did it, and used the bottom of the clutch bracket to put the holesaw against getting the cylinder down as far as I could. I'll see if I can snap some pictures of mine when I get home (it was raining and I hate driving a leaky car and decided to drive my Mustang )

 

Aftermarket master has a threaded rod for adjustment doesn't it?
Wonder if I could just cut the stock one, run a dye down it to thread it and go to the parts store and get something to thread each end in to thus making it longer?

 

There is a write up on tech on doing just that... Home made adjustable MC. Thats all that the RAM unit is. More or less. I actually bought a new MC, and replace the stock rod with the RAM's rod from my old one. The write up has good pics and nice instructions if I remember correctly. McMaster Carr will have any type of rod end you can think of...if you decide to try something different.

J.