so i'm using the spohn swap stands on my factory k-member. one of the things i was having an issue with with my new 6.0l was it was moving around too much with the rubber mounts. poly mounts are expensive, and a PITA to put in, not to mention that poly likes to rot out when exposed to high heat (like from a header). i emailed spohn to see if they were offering any solid mounts to work with their k-member stands. steve replied with "nothing yet, but it's in the works". well, i appreciated his reply, but i needed something quicker than "in the works". went down to lowe's and purchased $30 worth of material. some 1/4" plate, and some 1/8"x1 1/2" angle, and some 3/4" tubing. i got way more angle and tubing than i needed for the job, so i put them in my scrap pile after i took the small sections of material i needed for later projects.

here's a couple of quick shots of what i came up with today. oh, and they have identicle dimensions to the rubber mounts...but now my motor won't flop all over the engine bay













i didn't feel comfortable doing this when i had the aluminum block in the car, which is why this has waited for as long as it has. the biggest thing for me with these is that it will aid with consistant 60' times.

 

Looks good. tons of 4th gens use solid mounts for street cars. Unless the engine vibrates to no end, there shouldnt be an issue. LS engines seem very smooth for the most part

 

Not scrap, it's called "materials". What you'll be using to create revenue. Business expense.

 

hmmm...if i were to have a business liscence, i might just look at it that way. hmmm... i may just look into that!

 

Did you retain A/C? I used SBC moroso solid mounts to the K member and the adapter for the stock clam shell, 30$ was what i paid for the engine adapters and 20$ for the solid pads.

 

Should be profitable, since the cheapest rubber mounts are still $116 per pair. If you can beat that, but use thicker angle iron, and leave a bit more metal around the 4 bolt holes in the corners, I'll be first on the waiting list.

 

the only thing i'm afraid of with trying to produce these without having your car at my house, would be exact drivetrain angle of your car. not sure if they'd work with a different tranny crossmember holding the trans up or not. i've got a modded stock transmission crossmember, not sure if the other companies put it at the same angle or not. i like to do my custom work on a case to case basis with the car actually at my house. the very same reason i won't build an exhaust system for someone in another state, etc.

however, i have a set of Anchor replacement rubber mounts with ~125miles on them, no track passes or anything i'd let go for $80 shipped.

 

Good points, but consider that the rubber mounts are made perfectly squared and parallel, then it's the Hawks brackets that bolt to the stock K-member which are responsible for the driveline angle or trans crossmember or whatever. Plus leaving more metal around the 4 holes at the corners allows for safe elongation. If you use your rubbers to create a jig, then use the jig to align the parts for spot welding, then you're getting it close enough. If you think this sounds right, then keep your rubbers until you make a jig, then make your first set of solids from the jig, then verify them against the rubbers. Either way, when you're sure you're done, I'll be glad to take them at that price, but I'm in no rush this month.

 

i need to get a better place to get steel too.

i'll see what i can do about making a jig from my rubber mounts.

 

i just got done driving it with the new mounts. i think it's SMOOTHER at cruising speeds, lol! only really shakes when it lugs down to 700 or so rpm. i like them

 

I understand about getting steel. I tried metal fab shops, welding shops, general machine shops, and finally found the best option to be businesses that cater to farmers. Not IFA, they're high on everything. Some places with "Implement" in the name. Here in Cache valley, UT I buy steel from Ipaco. I got an 18" x 18" x 1/4" mild steel plate, for under $20, including what they charged me for cutting it from a much larger sheet. The same thing from .100"-thick was under $14. Including sales tax.

 

wow. yeah, i paid $10 for a 4"x12" piece of 1/4". the very reason i don't have more material around the mounting holes is because i used a piece of steel that was only 4" wide. had they been 4 1/2" wide, these'd be perfect. but the first set you make you always find fault in. these WILL work and work well. i believe they'll hold up to anything i can throw at them. i would like to make another set though at some point, to make them a little beefier and prettier.

 

I'm interested in these if you'd make a set

 

each car would be off slightly, kind of hard to make a universal set IMO.

 

There's an easier option, anyway. Start with Moroso 62510 and Moroso 62610, then add Trans-Dapt 7542 or 7545, depending on whether you want set-back 1" or not.
Anyway, it'll all just bolt together, no welding required.

 

Not if the bolt holes are the same as the clamshells.

I already got spohns mounts. If i had some clamshells it'd be so much easier to make the solids with the same mounting points

 

i'm not in a position to manufacture these without the car in my posession. atilla, this way was much more economical for me. and so far they're working flawlessly. the car has been bottom 11's already with no reliability issues out of my mounts.

 

Then by chance do you have some clamshells for sale so i can make em

 

i don't. i sold mine shortly after i made this set.