Most of us who have done the LS swap have very little ground clearance and/or clearance to the floor of the car with our exhaust. Mine is insanely noisy due to the movement of the block cause by such a big cam. The y-pipe primarily hits against the passenger floor area, and it's very annoying. Does anyone have a good solution to this? I have heard of maybe trying some extreme high-temp rubber, but don't know where to find it or how to go about mounting it so that the exhaust doesn't hit the floor. Any help/suggestions/pictures?

 

i've got this exact same problem, at idle the passenger side floorboard sounds like it's gonna fall off.

Only solution i've heard is wrapping some header tape around it, but I don't know how long that would last until it just wears through it...

 

put in poly mounts, and/or solid mounts to stop the motor from moving that much.

I run solid mounts and haven't had a single issue with exhaust rattling.

 

 

Have the shop either dent the pipe/floor or add a small length to give a bit more clearance

 

I agree with either poly mounts or a BFH. I went with poly mounts so hopefully I don't have this problem.

 

Ehhh I would rather not mess with new mounts. I'm thinking I may try to find a chunk of rubber and a u-bolt and put it on the part that is knocking.

 

Agreed.

I have poly mounts and it still shifted around after a few days of driving enough to bang and rattle in a couple spots. Dont put rubber or try and wedge it in tighter boys thats a sure way to break something and it wont get silent anyways only quieter.

Just look for where its rubbing, dimple the floor pans away if possible and/or heat the pipe with torch, and dimple it in where nec

 

My exhaust has taken 2 trips to the shop that put it on originally and another trip to a shop that was worth anything to get it routed, lengthened, shortened, and clearanced. Shoving some high-temp rubber between the pipe and your floorboard was an option the first shop offered to do...

But really - if your exhaust is moving enough that good clearanced pipe hits your floorboard, it's time to look at replacing your motor mounts.

 

That just seems like suuchhhhh a pain in the butt at this point though

 

no reason to do a "performance" build and not install poly mounts initially or just solid mount the motor already

 

[quote=Jim85IROC;4467117]

 

I vote mounts before hammer. Unless its just one little spot that requires a little massaging.

The poly mounts will give other benefits as well. You should'a installed them from the get go Sometimes, if you dont want to go full poly, you can do just one side. Lots of 4th gen guys do that.

But if your motor is moving around that much, at idle, then think how much its jerking under WOT. Just sayin...

J.

 

I have full poly and still required clearancing with the hammer in a couple spots after it settled in. My exhaust is uber tucked though. 1/8" clearance in the tightest places so getting a little ding or two here or there is not a surprise to me.

A few dings to the floor with the hammer is no biggy anyways as I see it. Most builds end up with those if you tuck stuff tight enough its required and i for one have no issue modding the heck out of something to make it work better.

Poly is key to minimize movement though.

 

Atleast hes got a tubular K-member. Jobs with the mounts and pan are horrible with the stocker

It may be easier to buy a set of worn out mounts and do the poly inserts and resell the old ones. Make it a remove and replace job to minimize car down time

 

I like Pocket's idea of buying a second set of mounts to install the poly into. Those things can be a bugger to get apart.

The closest my exhaust gets is in the trans crossmember area. About 1/4" is as close as it gets. Otherwise...its got tons of room. Where exactly are you guys hitting? Throughout the entire exhaust run?

J.

 

After the troubles with my first exhaust, I made sire to leave extra clearance with this one. I can fit my hand between the pipes and any chassis. Havent scraped on anything so far

 

Poly trans mount and the BFH mod around the ypipe where the trouble was happening.

 

Good tip regarding the mounts this would speed thing sup tremendously by having them prepped so you only have to get in and under there once.

Mine was hitting in the y-pipe area in a couple places after the first few trips. It sound SOOOOOO freaking bad and there was NO DAMN WAY I was rolling around hearing that noise all the time. In fact Im uber sensitive to NVH ( noise, vibration, harshness ) I like things to work as smooth as a Swiss watch not just perform like one.

Trouble with stainless too is it pulls and moves around quite a bit during the heat/cool process. But after I clearanced my pipes/floor pan I had no further issues

 

put a stainless flex on a 3 inch from summit is around 50 bucks

 

How exactly do you put in those poly pieces? Do you have to cut open the clamshell and weld it back together?

And I would have to try and get hold of a cherry picker again, because I don't have one. Does anyone know how much those poly bushings are anyways? And didn't a lot of you guys have problems with the bolts not lining up with them?

 

You drill out the rivets and they come with supplied bolts for reassembly. Around 50 bucks iirc. You dont need a cherry picker if you have a floor jack and some wood you just need to lift it not remove it.

As for getting them to line up and fit? All motor mounts are tricky but its nothing that should cause too many curses.

 

Loosen the K-member mounts and dont torque the engine mounts down completely until both sides are installed. The hard part is getting the long bolts lines up and shot through the mounts. Shift06 had some issues with them

 

Nick...this is what I use. It was about $50 from harbor freight. Its beefy..plenty strong. 100% adjustable. You can find them cheaper sometimes if you get ahold of a coupon, or when they go on sale. I used it when I removed my k-member to notch it.





Ive never had any issues lining up my mounts. I installed that all when the motor was out though. I installed my stands on the k-member, and mocked things up when I was notching for A/C.



The biggest pain of putting in the poly mounts was getting the old rubber mounts out. The mount kit came with nuts and bolts to put the clamshell back together. No welding required. Just have to drill the rivets and dig the old rubber out. Not hard.

J.