nice work man! its cool to see everything coming together and your giving me inspiration on my next build! keep the pics coming lol

 

Thanks!! I'm really getting close to getting it in the car, I could stick it in there now but i want to get as most done while it's out of the car to prevent scratching any paint.

 

subscribed

 

update??

 

An update? Oh yeah the car is done and runs 9's lol....I wish. Motor's in and running, Mcleod Master was junk so i got the tick today, going to get that in tomorrow. Also got most of my exhaust in, just need to custom fab that up after i figure out a torque arm. Also got a trick brake setup in the works, hiding the prop valve and all lines in the strut tower.

Here's a few vids, it sounds even nastier in person!!






I do have a few pressing questions that I hope you guys can answer/provide some input:

1: Why do the hawks headers seem so damn close to the passenger side subframe? Mine is like 1/8" away...
2: Are you guys able to run the tick master line inside the car and right to the slave? This would help with it being so close to the headers
3: Does anyone like the BMR Trak Pak? This seems like the easiest solution for my torque arm troubles.
4: How hard is it to change upper door hinges? I know it's not a huge deal but it bugs the hell out of me having to slam the door...makes a $20k feel like a junker lol.
5: With the brakes, what SAE size line is comparable to the metric ones from factory? I've read they don't have to be the exact same diameter, and the wilwood prop valve is all sae.


Thanks Guys!!!

Oh and i almost forgot, the TA is getting it's fair share of work as well. Trans cooler line blew off so i spent the last two nights working on that, new fitting/e clip will be here tomorrow. Also got the CBR Performance alt bracket on it, and removed a solid 15 pounds of stuff from it. SJM kit is in the works to get rid of the heavy ABS block. The car should be super light. The interior LOOKS complete, but everything under the dash etc is all gone.

 

hmm kinda dead around here!

 

While I try to read every post on the forum as part of my moderator responsibilities, I don't try to comment on every one (believe it or not).

With regard to question #3, the Trak Pak is a pretty good piece. The crossmember hangs down a bit, so if your car is lowered, you probably want to go a different route.

Are you thinking of changing the door hinges, or just the bushings & pins? Regardless, the hardest part of the job is handling the door.

 

i cant asnwer any of your questions but congrats on it running!

 

I can answer a few;

 

LOL reading every post would be a full time job in itself!! I decided against the trak pak, and started making a bracket for the long UMI torque arm. Got the piece that holds the bushing done, and the rest is out of cardboard for now as i ran out of cutting wheels. Should look pretty good when it's done!

I've got a whole kit, has the bushings and pins for the upper and lower. I think i'll have the shop that did my paint do it, he'll do it for cheap and knows what to do.

Thanks man! Blew a trans cooler line on the TA, so that was down this week. Man do i get pissy when i didn't have a ls car to drive!!

Damn, i wonder why mine is so tight?

 

Here's how I did my coolant crossover:

 

Gettting it tuned this monday!! I know I haven't updated this thread as much as i should, but i usually get to work on the car from 9pm-1am...i usually don't feel like taking pictures of everything at that time of night lol.

Got an adjustable torque arm and made a custom mount, turned out real well and should hold anything I throw at it.







Exhaust heat shield from DEI products



How i routed the "exhaust" lol. Should have plenty of ground clearance and the car sounds amazing with them. I'll grab some pics of the header side tomorrow



Otherwise I got a ton of small stuff done on the car, and got the Tick master cylinder installed and my 3.5" PST shaft will be here tomorrow. TOmorrow night I should be able to give it a quick hand alignment and give it a wash/give it a little shakedown to see it anything's leaking etc

 

Looks great. Nice job. Hopefully you won't get any exhaust odor in the car.

 

Well it made it home without a breakdown knock on wood!!

 

going for a new style with the painters tape?..lol

 

Haven't updated this in a while lol. Mostly done and enjoying the hell out of it. Nitrous is being hooked back up since it's still not enough powa.


This was filmed in canada...

 

That thing is super low in the front! Car and swap look awesome!

 

Thanks buddy, i got some weight jacks for the rear that i put together really cheap, for the fronts i'm going to call ground control and get just the fronts.

I would like to raise the front a good .5"

 

Nice Vids! Hope mine sounds and runs that good!! Props to ya!

 

son! lol i can eat 3 sandwiches between your 1-2 shift

 

Haha i was day dreaming for sure lol

 

Your car is beautiful man... seriously, it's nice to see it running! I'm filled with envy. My swap has been dead in the water for a while now.

 

Wow...Been a long time since I've updated this! Hard to remember what I've done since last time.

Built a 9" with Yukon aluminum through bolt third member, 3.89's with a Tru-Trac. Also installed drilled and slotted LS1 brakes while I was there. Moser axles but I can't remember what spline count they are? I made my own torque arm, strap points, and swar bar brackets. Also welded brackets for the e brake.

 

After some spirited driving, the stock front brakes were a bit sketchy to say the least. I installed some 13" Wilwood's to cure that safety hazard.

Also installed new KYB AGX struts, as well as new Hotpart strut mounts. This thing should handle much better than a new C7 'vette.

Also got tired of changing transmission fluid through that stupid fill hole, so I drilled and tapped a nice fill plug into the Pro 5.0 shifter base. Now it's as simple as taking the shift boot off, removing the plug and filling with a funnel/hose. Didn't have any pictures of that, but it's pretty self explanatory.

Got some Kirkey's coming for it, and stopped by Racecraft Inc. to get their seat brackets. Will update with pictures when those are installed. For those of you curious, the stock 1989 power seat weighed 47 pounds. The new Kirkeys/mounts/covers will weigh around 15 pounds. I figured a 32 pound savings will help offset the added brake weight.

 

Is that a quick performance housing? What bearing ends are on it? Looks like small GM or 12 bolt style. I see Moser axles.........hybrid 9" obviously. I did the same (Currie housing, Strange center, S&W)

How do you like the torque arm mount? I've heard a number of complaints, and as a result I went with the S&W mount. Check it out:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...91z-ls1-9.html

Tell me how you like the TruTrac!

 

Yep, quick performance housing. Small GM i believe, the stock 4th gen f-body backing plates bolt right on. Sorry I can't remember for sure, it's been a while! I like the mount, seems solid and there's plenty of clearance for it. Maybe fabbing my own torque arm helped.

So far I like the Tru Trac. I'm sure someday I'll switch to the wavetrac, but for know, knock on wood, its ok.

 

Got my driver side Kirkey installed tonight. Saved 32 pounds. I like it so much I'm ordering another to do the passenger side. Probably going to use the stock slider on the passenger to accommodate my wife (short) and some friends that are taller. The Racecraft brackets work on the driver side very well in thirdgen's, but the passenger is a no-go.

The passenger, non power seat weighed 40 pounds...much heavier than I thought. So, another 20ish pounds saved after that install. the passenger slider assembly is 7 pounds.

 

I'm interested how you mount the seat on the passenger side. I switched to a Kirkey seat on the drivers side, but I haven't put a seat on the passenger side yet.

 

I used the stock 3rd gen slider assembly, and used aluminum to make mounts that attach it to the seat. It does sit up ~1" higher than the driver, but I didn't want to hard mount it. This way I can slide it forward and have enough room for the N2O and Nano tanks.

 

.

 

Here's some of the pictures on how I made the passenger seat rail work. Didn't take much at all and it's solid! These seats are so much better than stock. You actually feel secure instead of sliding around in the couch-like stock seat.

Also installed a Odyssey pc680 battery, total weight savings this year is 77lbs! Just need to find another 23lbs to take out and I'll be happy. EDIT: Took out the radio, 6x9's, and rear deat belt assemblies and saved 26.5lbs. New Final weights in post below.

 

Scaled the car last night, 3520 lbs with me in it (I weigh 185). 3,335 lbs isn't terrible but still not where I'd like it to be. If i could get it to 3100 lbs without me, and appearing to be completely intact I'd be ecstatic.

Here's a list of my weights:

89 Driver cloth full power with bracket 47#
89 Pass Cloth no power with bracket 40#
Passenger Bracket alone 7#
Kirkey Pro drags each 15#
Windshield wiper motor 7#
Horns Each 1#
Stock Battery 33#
Odyssey PC680 15#
Radio CD Player 4.5#
6x9 Speakers Each 3#
Hatch Shade and T-Top Bag 8#
Rear seat belt assembly x2 8#

Taken out 10-3-17
Front Speakers 3#
Heater Core and excess plumbing 5#

Total weight now 3327

 

Here's some better pictures of the seats, and radio plate I made.

Plan is to put a Boost Leash controller in the old radio hole.