Just read the article and want to confirm i'm understanding everything correctly.

If i went out and bought a 01-02 camaro with ls1 auto complete, i should be able to take from the engine, tranny, drift shaft & rear end and bolt it up into my car with the lsx motor mounts from hawks, and be done?
I'm taking in consideration already of routing the wires.

Also said there are some tight spots, will this be a inconvenience for me later in life? considering the heater box for example.

I did notice some people run heater hoses above and i believe "some" below?

If i bought a use 01-02 camaro with everything, I should most likely get the engine and tranny rebuilt, correct? How much would it normally run someone to have both these rebuilt & for me to get a nice lopey cam to give to them to put in the engine without issue? (Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-6r4cYkPu4) I notice he has an exhaust but I love the difference with the cam and would love to get about the sound aggressive sound from mine.

Also for the rear end, should I look specifically in a year that has a curtain rear-end that'll hold up or would the stocker be enough?

Just wanted to see about these questions so I could clearify before making the next step and starting the project.

Thanks,
Timinsk

 

I'm pretty new at this myself, but I've already learned a few things just searching this forum. Everything you need to know is on here! Someone somewhere has already been there, done that on pretty much everything.

From my understanding, the rear will bolt in, but is slightly wider than thirdgen rears, so a 4th gen wheel offset is a good idea. If you run the 4th gen brakes I believe you need a different proportioning valve for that. I just read up on that in the brakes forum. If you run a/c, you will need to notch your k-member to make room for the compressor. IDK much about hawks motor mounts, I'm going with spohn. We also need to modify or buy a trans crossmember too. That will get you engine/trans set in there. As far as I know headers is where things get tight...and hawks is the only place to get long tubes. You also have to mate the 2 wiring harnesses together too. Pocket is the person to talk to, and read his posts on that.

I bought a whole 4th gen donor. I'm not using the rear, just the motor(it was swapped to a lq9, thats why I bought it), trans, computer and harness, and probably driveshaft.
I dont know about rebuilds or anything on LS motors, the one I have has about 8k on it, and runs great so I'm not going to worry about that yet.

 

Spohn and Hawks motor mounts are the same thing. I completely agree on reading through Pocket's wiring harness threads. Some of it may not apply to your swap specifically but the information is very helpful and informative.

 

It's really not to bad of a swap. You'll also have to modify the transmission crossmember. I had to extend mine like 2" and elongated the center bolt for adjustability. The A/C box needs a little clearancing where the upper and lower parts bolt together. As far as the heater hose's youll want to run them up top. No room to run them below and make it look clean. When you start your wiring lable everything on your old harness and begin splicing. I soldered and heat shrinked all my connections. So practice your soldering skills. As far as transferable parts... I even used the stock 2002 camaro trans dipsticks, Transmission cooler lines ect. Have Fun! I think the hardest part is wrapping the wiring and routing it so it looks clean.

 

My current job is a wire technician for junction boxes on big mills and coil spring makers.

Mainly i'm trying to go the route of bolt in and not worry to much. So i was curious about the rebuilding part so I know the tranny and rear can hold up to it. I have oereplicas of c6 wheels so theres no issue there, i'm trying to do a rear disk conversion and thought the 4th disk rear would be best, just need a different ebrake cable and new master cylinder i think. I dont have a/c so it doesn't bother me.

So basically i'll need the lsx motor mounts and a crossmember mount for the tranny. Everything else should bolt in.

My only option for exhaust is hawks? their prices are high but ill think of something

As for the computer & wiring I should only need that wiring harness that comes with the engine? I could get rid of my old engine wire-harness right? I'm looking to go aftermarket digital gauges so I think i'll be fine there.

I also am curious on what kind of rear i should look out for on the 4th gens. I heard that some come with eaton posi and its a 40% chance it'll fully lock while sometimes it gives out on corners. I do love my thirdgen limited slip, never had an issue.

So what I'm looking at is a ls1 with a more aggressive cam which will put me at like high 300's hp/tq iirc and so i'm taking a guess but the tranny and rear-end that came in the 4th should handle with no issue?

 

another route for exhaust is 4th gen manifolds (or shorties) and a custom y-pipe. should save some money going this route, but not the best if you're going for big HP numbers.

3rd gen engine harness can go, but you'll need to modify the driver side harness (guages and some power stuff)

the SS models (and firehawks?) had an option for a better diff in it from SLP, so they would be the best stock option to go with

 

Are you going to keep AC? The 4th gen system will work, but will not clear the 3rd gen crossmember (it's not a matter of being "tight", they just don't work with each other). Your choices are: 1) Notch the 3rd gen crossmember; 2) get a compressor relocation bracket kit from Kwik performance (requires buying a Sanden compressor); or 3) get a tubular crossmember.

The rear coil is tight to the AC box. You either need to modify the box, or trade someone for truck coils. I'd recommend only doing truck coils on the passenger side, because they get in the way of the fuel rail connection on the driver side.

Radiator fan - your RS has a single fan. You can make that work, or you can swap over the 4th gen radiator & fans.

You can get "high 300's hp/tq" at the flywheel with headers and a slightly better cam. '01/'02 have the LS6 intake already, but not quite as good of cam as the '99-'00 LS1's. If you want "high 300's hp/tq" at the wheels, you probably won't get that with exhaust manifolds or shorty headers.

 

You got the truck coils to fit without grinding at the AC box? Mine won't fit even if I try to jam them in there.

 

Mine fit. I got the idea from TGO.

 

Dont want AC, have a heater box (ac delete)

Might go with the option of engine & tranny. so if i do what do i need to get the driveshaft to work? I have 3rd gen aluminum driveshaft

I'm looking to go aftermarket gauge set, comes with custom panels and gauges.

I'm looking to get high 300's, and looking for a aggressive sounding cam. basically thinking of getting the ls1 rebuild it with a aggressive cam and thats it.

 

That makes several things much easier. Easy to pull the AC stuff off the engine without affecting anything else (like belt routing), no need to notch the front of the K-member, no issues with clearance back by the valve covers.

The driveshaft will fit. Only issue is whether it is beefy enough. A 4th gen aluminum would be better. If you get a complete '01-'02 LS1 donor car, it will have an aluminum driveshaft.

High 300's measured where? Flywheel, or rear wheels? Which is more important, the power, or the sound?

Most LS1's don't need a rebuild, but it really depends upon what you happen to find.

 

I'll keep in mind about the drive shaft.

The sound is a bit more important mainly because thisll just be a street car, nothing to insane i wanted a fun toy around town. thought high 300 to flywheel might be better.. done see why i should have high 300 to the wheel.. i think it might be to much for me

 

I'll have to admit I don't "get" the lumpy cam thing. I'll take a smooth idling engine that will rip your ears off when challenged, to something that sounds nasty at idle and is a dog to drive, any day of the week.

But, my stock 2000 LS1 with headers, LS6 intake, and free-flowing air inlet makes an estimated 320 RWHP, 400 FWHP, at altitude. I hope to have it on the dyno within the next month. The 3" single in/out Magnaflow muffler gives it plenty of "sound" (as far as I'm concerned).

 

wow! that sounds great, that might be ideal for me. I wish i had a better way of explaining what ideally im looking for as a sound.

I think i found a vid that is the sound i want, sounds great at idle and the aggressive sound i want midrange http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouRwA...eature=related