TranzMutation

So i've been reading a lot on this, I'm wanting to a 5.3 swap. Their is a few questions I have since most threads flare up between EFI-Carb debate. I'm sure this one will to but.Fuel Delivery and Wiring.
I get the whole swap plates, i'll be running aftermarket gauges by then hopefully so shouldnt be a big prob understand them but

Is the MSD/Edel./Holley wiring standalone? no biggie to put in or a pain in the ***.I'm curious if i'll need to retain any connectors/etc off the 5.3 harness

Fuel i have no clue on this is it better to run a 4th gen tank with say a walbro or 3rd gen tank with a walbro? do i need a regulator? is there a return line? I know using a 4th pump i may have to use the vette filter is that correct?

Tranny question i have a 700R4 i could use and possible a 350 Turbo.. If i used the 700R4 can i retain stock length driveshaft? what if i got 350 Turbo.
Any light you all can shine on this would be great

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

The wiring for the msd box is stand alone. You don't need anything else other than the crank position sensor, cam position sensor, and coil pack harness. Its very easy to hook up. I would get the MSD box vs the edelbrock one because the MSD one allows you to put in your own custom timing curve. The edlebrock one only has a selection of pills that have their own curve which may or may not be optimal.

I would buy an aftermarket electric carb fuel pump and use the stock thirdgen tank. That would be easiest vs. a high pressure in-tank pump intended for fuel injection. Aeromotive, Holley, Carter all make good pumps, choose one for your power level. Most pumps require a regulator. Bybass regulators work the best to maintain consistant fuel pressure especially at idle.

Assuming your car had a 700-R4 before you should be able to use re-use the driveshaft. If you go with a TH-350 you will need a different length drive shaft.

Autometer makes adapters to adapt the metric fittings on your LS engine to NPT for your aftermarket gauge sensors.
Autometer 2277 1/8 NPT to M12 x 1.5 (temp sensor)
Autometer 2268 1/8 NPT to M16 x 1.5 (oil pressure)

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

th350 you should be able to stick with the stock DS if you get the correct length tailshaft (can never remember if its the long or short one, bah). of the two options, go th350, as a 700r4 wont last long behind an LSx. adapter for the flywheel, elongated bolt holes, torque arm/crossmember adapter kit, and you're good to go.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Long, as in 9".

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

thanks for refreshing my memory. I lucked out when I got my last th350 because it dropped right in (did a sbc400/th350 from a 78 C10 on my last 3rd gen). Due to the unknown condition of my 4L60E, if its no good, I'm grabbing another th350 so I can get the car on the road without breaking the bank anymore than it already has from the ongoing 6.0 swap....

TranzMutation

Tranny- Curious why well bulit 700R4 isn't much different than a its newer version 460LE, i mean its going have a stall, and defaintly be bulit up for at least 400HP+ motor when I'm realistically only look for a mild 300-320 HP..

Wiring- Ok defaintly going MSD on the box then, now how does the body harness tie in or will it at all? I'm going to rewire the car pretty much completely because I'm going aftermarket sound, probably redo tail lights to DIY Tail Lights, and the gauges should be pretty easy with aftermarket gauges. thought about actually going down in size on the fuse box if i can get by but i wish someone had a CAD diagram of the carb wiring harness so vs stock wiring systems for my car.

Engine- next honestly opinion here Racing K-Member or Stock K-Member? i know stock is cheaper but by the time i sandblast, powdercoat, brackets, assemble I'll have just as money in the old than a brand new one and if i went stock would the fbody oil pan clear it

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

trans - if you've already got a built 700r4, then run with it. i was under the (incorrect) assumption you were talking about stock

wiring - take a look at some of Pocket's posts about doing up the wiring. the body harness on the driver side will be trimmed back a bit, since you'll really only need it for your gauges (if you're sticking stock here), starter engage, ign, and power to the interior fuse box. lighting is also on that side, but its a separate part of that connector and doesn't need to to be touched.

engine - kmember is completely up to you. many of us use the stock kmember and mod it a bit for more oil pan clearance (notch the back), but some like the tubular for weight and access reasons.

TranzMutation

My biggest concerns right now are wiring, I started my parts list and going to start looking for everything i need, hopefully some guys will have this setup on a 3rd gen at Holley LS Fest, ill be attending it in a couple more weeks ... can't wait... thanks for the help guys