So im about to finish up my swap this weekend and honestly just noticed the driver side o2 sensor clearance issue and already know of having to add a bung on the passenger side (using stock f-body manifolds) but i was wondering, anyone know if theres a shorter o2 sensor that can be use to eliminated the need to re-fab the drivers side? maybe from a completely different car? im wondering if the sensor is only providing the information to PCM and an alternative can be used that will fit right in there...

Can you set the tune for open loop only and eliminate o2's all together? I was curious about this on LSx setups but I havent purchased software yet and not sure i will since they cost as much as a lifetime dyno tune at any shop down here in my area.

not sure, i did research that alittle on the tech but most say u cant, it will run rich permanently but other than that no definite answer.

Curious to know whats in the software to tune these things but the older GM stuff have settings for closed loop enable based on coolant temps. I'm sure LSx have that too since they work on the same principle I thought. They need to reach a certain temp to operate in closed loop. I could be wrong but if thats the case, you should beable to stay in open loop and still adjust MAP tables to acheive the air fuel you desire.

im sure theres a way to do it like you said, i just dont have that software, im sure HPtuners or the like might be able to handle something like that, just figured id see if i could cheat and find some low-profile/shorter 02 sensors. looks like ill be welding again this weekend.

Yeah just changing the o2 location may be easier for now. I dont know of any shorter sensors

When I did my swap I asked the same questions.To answer them ...both answers are a no.The lsx motors from what I was told do not like to operate on one o2 sensor and tuning it this way is time consuming=expensive ..more usefull when running speed density tune.Couldnt find a shorter o2 sensor to work in the tight space of our cars using the stock manifold and its o2 location.

My solution..since I had a spare o2 sensor,I grabbed a prybar and slowly bent the sensor while in the car for clearance.Problem..bent it too far and it broke the heater element and I get a code for it but the sensor still functions for readings.Solution..on the second o2 I had..i carefully cut off some of the metal casing and then heat shrink wrapped the wires and bent whatever I could still on the 02 sensor and it clears the k member.its easier to take that driver side header off and do this with the sensor bolted on.Been like this for a few months now without issue.

thats a good idea, i know what you mean but do you have a couple pics? i started to think the wires were actually connected farther down inside the shell on the sensor leading to more clearance if one were to cut off some of the shell/casing

What about no sensors? can you you just run open loop?

currently researching this, one benefit to my set-up is im running a maf which will compensate normally when the car is in open loop anyway so i think i could technically get away with it for awile and just deal with the CEL light on, if anyone has objections as a danger to the engine speak up please.

You can turn those CEL off. All mine are off on my 99 TA.

apparently it is possible to tune the CL op temp as high as 150C to a point the engine will never reach anyway to utilize "forced" open loop mode all the time which i have read alot of people do for smoother performance from the engine, only major downside is the gas mileage obviously, but the maf might cut that in half since its always sending the ecm info of incoming air allowing pre-combustion a/f adjustment. maybe its not a bad idea afterall, at least for now.

Ive heard too many mixed reviews about running open loop all the time.I dont know if where you live and how much different weather conditions play a part in why many guys have swaying opinions.As for the o2, I didnt take pics and wish I did after I finished bolting the manifold back on lol.Its not difficult but I made sure to buy a new sensor first before hacking up the original to see if my idea would even work.I also used corvette rear o2 sensors due to the faster rates they work in and higher heater element.My a/f gauge on both vette o2s were much faster and more accurate than the stock front fbody sensors.

Ask your tuner about how they feel with running the car solely in open loop.If they are comfortable tuning to do so for everyday driving etc then no harm done.

Why not just relocate it like you did the pass side?

They make O2 plugs, and if you're poor like me, Just use a broken off O2/HO2 in the manifold to cork the hole

I wouldnt recommend running the car without atleast front HO2s

im not sure I understand the issue myself. I used the manifolds for years and just relocated the bung past the flange. then I used the stock O2 sensors.

I dont know if the lsx stuff is any different but MANY run open loop on these TPI cars without issues. My 383 never had an issue and I ran that in 80 deg summer heat and just fine in 40 deg november air. Just keep an eye on the air fuel. The MAF is a big help in changing some of the air fuel for different weather conditions, but it can only do so much. Thats ok, because it shouldnt sway THAT much unless your talking 100 deg summers and 10 deg winters. If you drive in different conditions, you may need to retune for those environments, but if the tune uses MAT/IAT sensors effectively, it should compensate for fueling in open loop mode, if its still used in open loop mode. Again just a thought I had.

LSx engines are worlds apart from TPIs both physically and electronically

I dont see the benefit of not running HO2s. If its cost, then get a pair from a JY. They last a very long time

i have some, honestly jon, i just want to drive it, no more drilling, welding, splicing, ill put them in later on, only have a month or so left to drive it anyway. it started right up today, no issues. runs nice. i am wondering why my temp guage is only reading 160 when the fan comes on though.

You dont need a MAF or HO2s to run it for a while. The MIL will come on but it wont prevent you from driving it or cause damage

Enjoy the car, fix it later

Temp gauge is a little off, generally about 10-20* low. You can still easily ID the important temps

Congrats on getting it running too!