2600-watt-rs

I found an Ls1 long block to do my swap it has everything but oil pan and pulleys. The major question right now is the starter mount is broken off. Is this something that can be fixed by welding hence it is a aluminum block? And also will i need a diferent oil pan to do the swap? Im getting it for only $300 In my mind i feel this is a steal... I may be wrong though, any thoughts?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Somebody is getting a deal, but I'm not sure it's you.

A longblock is a poor start for an LS1 swap. You have to add a whole bunch of things - f-body oil pan (and oil pump pickup, and windage tray), accessories, intake, throttle body, MAF, IAT, harness, PCM, transmission (and flexplate or flywheel/clutch, depending upon which type tranny you go with), and whatever sensors don't happen to be on the longblock.

While the starter mount might be repairable, most likely the engine will have to be disassembled down to the block to do it right.

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Id avoid it and five7kid is right. The stuff not there is gonna add up quick and you will spend more

POP6482

iTrader: (2)

I agree with the others....besides for the job of fixing the starter mount...there are a lot of parts that you will need to buy....Take it from me, I started with an LQ4 short block and spent a ton of money on everything else. If I were you, I would wait it out and try to find a package deal. It will save a lot in the long run. Good Luck!!

UnstableAviator

I couldn't agree more with the above posters. Wait for a complete dropout or even a donor car. This seems to be a common thing with LS engines, someone thinking a bare longblock is a great deal. It is AFTER your car is set up and running with LS power, but definately not as a first step..

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Unless you already had a bad rotating assembly and wanted to buy that one for the inners, I would not buy a busted block. The prices on complete running ls1 have really dropped in price, even complete cars are 4,000 now in good shape.

2600-watt-rs

Great info here guys thank you. My plan was to rip it down and make it "my" engine, but honestly im lost. I know it would be very expensive to build from ground up but it would also all be brand new stuff with no miles.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

it's pretty clear everyone said not to buy a busted starter block.

2600-watt-rs

Yes indeed i see this. My ? though is say i buy another Ls1 or Lq4 or what have you... Im going to be ripping it down to bare bone. So whats the diference? Just the broken starter mount. Yes i would have to buy a bunch of bolt ons but id have to for another block anyways.. Im just trying to see everybodies point here not to buy it if im just going to do the same to another block?

2600-watt-rs

Regardless if i get the block or not is there a link someone can give me on what all is needed to do the Ls swap? Iv tried searching the stickys my computer here at work is ****.

UnstableAviator

I think everyone (including me) is saying the broken starter mount isn't the show stopper, its attempting an entire LSX swap starting with nothing other than a bare long-block. Buying a bare LQ4/LM7/LQ9/etc creates the same problem......getting nickel and dimed to death (ok, $50 and $100'd) collecting all the parts needed to actually get it running.

coptzer

iTrader: (2)

Not sure what stickies you were searching, but this pretty much covers it all: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...third-gen.html

There is also links either on here or ls1tech that explain how to repair the broken block, if you do indeed buy that one, and the correct new longer starter bolts to buy. If I come back across it, I will post it up for you. Keep searching!

2600-watt-rs

I totally agree... I found another Ls motor its a 6.0 out of a 2001 silverado. This is the LQ4 correct? The guy wants $300 for it and comes with wire harness.

2600-watt-rs

Thanks Coptzer!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Have you talked to JJ's automotive in Mt Pleasant? They typically have drop outs for sale for a good deal. Also likely to have or get you the other parts missing from long blocks you were considering.

Like I said before, depends on your goals with this thing. If you want to rebuild it thats great but you can get ALOT of power out of stock internals witih nothing more than a rod bolt upgrade.

I'd just open it up, put in fresh bearings and check clearances to be sure its all in check, maybe re-ring it, and do the rod bolt upgrade/rod resizing. This will turn 7K rpms and support near 500whp all motor if you have the cam/heads to do so. Thats a very nasty motor.

2600-watt-rs

But yea im going to listen to everybody and forget the "broken starter block" Im WAY more interested in this 6.0 block out of this silverado after reading alot in those forum link. Thats my intension, to tear down and build up really like the idea of L92 heads with the L76 intake. I could reuse the wire harness and computer from that silverado correct?

2600-watt-rs

Called JJ's he has Ls1/T56 coming in next week, he isnt sure of the mileage but he said around $3000 - 3500. I just really dont have that right now which sucks because thats everything i need.... lol i think im finally getting what everyone is saying haha

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Could sell the T56 for 1500 perhaps. My friend has an LS2 he'd sell but the crank bolt thread is stripped in the snout I believe. It would need retapped or machined or something.

2600-watt-rs

You have the T56? If so SOLD. Ill buy it this weekend if your up here in PA, See if you can find out how much your buddy wants for his Ls2.

And how the hell did he strip the crank bolt?

86White_T/A305

If all else fails..buy the lq4 for $300 regardless and hide it for now somewhere.Look for a blown ls1 or very high milage ls1 from an fbody that has the accessories which should be pretty cheap too and just swap everything onto the lq4.Do you want to make the car manual or keep it auto because this will play big in your expenses aswell.Set a goal for the car and stick to that first..or else you will be never ending changes and turn into a money pit lol.You can always do the swap in budget stages too,stock manifolds,700r4,custom y pipe.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Lol no I mean I dont have a T56, just saying if you bought the drop out for near 3K, the T56 can be sold for 1500 but if you want a manual then thats not a bad deal for a complete wired up drop out

2600-watt-rs

Forsure want it to be manual. I have the 700r4 which i plan on selling since it is rebuilt i should be able to get alil bit of money for that. I think JJ's should be able to get me the pulley set up for cheap hopefully. If not i will call every junk yard around lol

2600-watt-rs

I was thinking this too... just not sure on the mileage part and that determines the $price$ I know one thing though i cant sit still and want this s*** done NOW! This is my problem i work myself up and know its going to be a long process. Progress is a slow process... Ive heard that line a million times

2600-watt-rs

Well like i just told Orr89RocZ, Just talked with the junkyard and he told me the 6.0 from the 01 silverado's fuel rails have been stolen and the hood has been taken off. Sooo its been sitting in the rain with no fuel rails... back to square one i suppose Still looking.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I know alot of ppl in the pittsburgh area that are in the LSX game so i'll ask around. Should beable to find you something.

2600-watt-rs

Sweet ill pm you my number. You up in PA now? or still down TX?

2600-watt-rs

Tell me if you guys think i should jump on this deal... 6.0 working engine with 150k on it LS6 intake and LS1 accessories for $1,300. What do you guys think?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Sounds pretty good to me. I do have a friend with an LS2 he was considering getting rid of. I am interested in it myself. Also have another friend with a ls2 shortblock with a bad piston on one of the cylinders. Needs replaced but he has a new piston for it. Dont think there is any bore damage.