Could you take a picture from up a little higher and to the rear slightly to see the back of the AC compressor? I too bought those brackets, but I wont be using them for a while. I am just wondering what the back of the lines look like

 

I will see what I can do.

 

Hope this helps. Oh, I also had to puschase $75.00 worth of idler and tentioners to make this work. it is in the instructions but I guess I overlooked that little bit of info when I first got them.

 

Can anyone help me with a good pic of the area that needs to be cut out for the 4th gen coolant tank mod. I have been looking for some time and cant seem to find one. I dont want to mount it under the tray as some have done but I have seen it done two ways from above. I dont want to cut the side support, only batt tray? From what I have seen this will put the tray on top of the frain rail by an inch or so.

 

Those pictures are great! Thank you. Are those the stock SBC 3rd gen AC lines you are using? I havent seen my lines in a while and the car I bought is a V6, so it is different.
Potentially there are other R4 compressors that will work and have the ports clocked differently so the lines wouldn't be against the inner fender. My friend ordered an R4 compressor from Advance or something and wound up getting two, one was for his truck and he isn't sure about the other. I am going to see what the second one he got was and check to see if it clocks the ports different.

I downloaded the instructions from Holley before I bought the brackets, so I knew what I was getting into before I purchased. IMO the brackets are nice, but by the time you are done buying all the parts necessary the pricing comes close to buying a GM C5/C6 serp setup which comes with a new alternator and compressor. The only reason I bought this setup was that I wanted to use the stock R4 compressor for this build since I already had it and I had an f-body water pump so it was less parts to buy since I already had a truck accessory setup.

 

Yes, Stock V8 manifold assembly. Never even cracked the system open. Would be cool to find an R4 with manifold outlets clocked in a better position. With the Hi Pressure switch there it wont allow any re-clocking.

 

looking nice man

 

Thanks! Starting to realize the lack of room around the transmission when it is installed. DAMN! Gonna have to hook up lines and electronics as well as o2s before the trans goes in the hole!!

I need some help guys. 1. My doner alternator has the big red wire that goes to the Batt. and on the plug there is only one little red wire, Where does it go??

2. the tan wire from the Oil sending unit. where does it go?

I see the draw back (one of them) using the factory 89 K-member. You really cant tilt the engine back enough to easily get the bell bolts in during trans. instal.

 

Not sure about the alternator terminal on the 98 PCM, but, just use your factory oil pressure sensor plug from the thirdgen harness that comes out of the c100 firewall connector

 

This wire here, plugs into the alt. and goes? It does not go to the computer that I know of.

 

I found the tan wire for the Oil Pressure in the C100, Thanks

 

That's the exciter wire for the alternator but not sure where it goes. Awesome build!!!

 

Alt wire goes to the PCM R15 for 99+ PCMs

For 98 PCMs is gets 12v IGN through a 470ohm resistor

 

Any idea where that dang ole resistor is on the 98? I'm bettin in the cluster!

Another for ya, on the 89, the stock fuel pump relay has two wires I'm not sure what to do with?? Blk/Wht and Grn/Wht. Looks like they went to the stock ECM. With that being gone what do I do with them?

 

Somebody correct me if I am mistaken, blk/wht is ground and gen/wht is request signal from PCM.

 

The 98's used a dummy light in the cluster for the resistance. You can grab a 5 pack of resistor for a buck at radioshack

25th is correct, BLK/WHT is grd, GRN/WHT is 12v controlled by the PCM

 

One more out of the 98 PCM.??? R32 (org/blk) is for park neutral sig. Im assuming there is a wire on C207 that would go to the N.S.S. in there.

Opinion?? There are many wires that look like they could be used in the C207. I know the years changed these things alot so I will put what I have and see if you can tell me what they would be best for or to delete.

A - Brn - Emission ctrl.
B - Blk - Fuel Inj.
C - Brn/Wht - Ign, SES,Tach
D - Tan-Wht - Coolant Fan
E - Wht/Blk - Ign, SES, Tach
F - Pnk/Blk - Ign, SES, Tach
G - Blk - Fuel Inj.
H - Tan/Blk - Engine data and TCC
J - Org - Emission ctrl.
K - Brn - Idle speed ctrl, fuel ctrl and data
L - Dk Blu - Pass Key
M - Blk/Wht - Idle speed, fuel ctrl and data
N - Org/Blk - Idle speed, Fuel ctrl and data

As always, Thanks in advance. G.

 

B-connect from c207 to one injector/coil common
G-connect from c207 to the other injector/coil common.
L-no longer used

I am confused about one pin being listed as a function for several operations on some pins.

 

subscribed.

 

Looking good... I'm avoiding the wiring on my swap too... but then again with my customers and my shop I can't afford to play with the car at all... cost of doing business though I guess....

 

Me Too. From what I have found on the car D is a trigger wire for the cooling fans.

H - I am very curious about. I did not lable these before I cut them so I'm not even sure whitch wires from the C207 went to the engine compartment and others went to PCM. Rookie move! I ban myself.

 

I hear ya! If We had some work mine would go on the back burner.. At that time of year again where folks just dont want to spend $$ on their cars. I run a Transmission shop and It has been a roller coaster the past few years! I wish I were so busy I did not have time to work on it, the pocket book would like that but for now I need to get this to where it will move on its own power and get it off the lift ( for when we do get busy).

 

You can run your relay trigger wires straight from the PCM to your relays, take the guess out of it....

 

WOW !! Nice job and VERY informative !

I'm really considering doing this swap on my sons 87 Trans Am GTA.

 

I was wondering if you knew what the name of the pipe that connects to the air injection valve pipe and the exhaust manifold is called

 

On the Original L98 Tuned port or the new LS1?

 

Hee Hee! You should see it now! WIRES EVERYHERE!!

It will be worth it in the end!

 

A little more done today, Wires are everywhere but they are all hooked up except for A/C stuff. With the key to Accessory, My lights and buzzer are there but when you turn to start- Nothing. Gauges move but no solenoid. Looks like I will need to by-pass the Starter relay for VATS on the car. I Need to brush up on that one. Still don't know if the Nutral Park wire on the PCM has to be hooked up to something. Must go find that topic. G.

There it is, Post #17
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...formation.html

 

OK, got the relay bypassed and now it will crank. Trying to build oil pressure is realy making me nervous! No plugs, coils or fuel. Been cranking on this thing for a good 4 minutes total in 15 sec intervals and still nothing showing on the gauge and no oil up to the heads yet! This sucks! I feel the crank and rods are gonna run out of assembly lube and scar the bearings............... Any suggestions?

 

Get an adapter for the block to screw a line guage into. Will take the possibility away of the guage not working properly. They make a little setup to prime the oil system with a pressurized oil tank as well.

 

Where on the block do you hook up such a thing? Pressurised tank that is.

 

Hook it to the same place your oil pressure guage threads into, or any other oil pressure passage you are able to tap into. You can also drill and tap the small block off plate above the oil filter on the pan, and use the pressurized oil prime method there, or use a line guage there as well.

 

I rented the pre-lube kit from Napa and will tap the port on the block just to the right of the oil pump (left front of engine) . Only problem is that nobody (Parts houses, Friends, Friends of friends) has the adaptor fitting to go from the pipe threads on the hose to the metric threads on the block. They just say to fill it up and fire it up. I did not want to damage the bearings at start up.

Know where I can score a fitting?

 

Not sure where to get a fitting. If you are drilling and tapping a oil passage, just tap it to whatever works in the kit.

 

MayBe the ls1 swap oil pressure sending unit adapters on eBay could work?

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=36924095166

 

This is what I have found, I beleve this is the correct one.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS-Ser...DisplayId=8195

 

LOL! Yep, That's it also!! Now I need to find a place local I can go get Mon. Thanks!

Heres an autometer.

http://www.google.com/shopping/produ...ed=0CEwQ8wIwAA

I think I am gonna rent this sucka out when I get it!

 

How about unplugging something? If oil comes out when you crank, you are good; if not you have to check what's up with your oil pump.

 

Headed to O'Reilly now. They have an Equus Adaptor set that has the one I want in it, Pt# 9851. Picking up Rad hoses and Gonna try to find a by-pass hose for the water pump for temp. (THIS PART # DID NOT WORK FOR USING A PRESSURE CAN TO PRIME THE SYSTEM).

 

Got a little more done today, Will update soon. My starter did not like it when it hit the shop floor...........................................................

 

Not sure why one could t use the plugs in the help section at the auto parts stores. Basically they look like big vacuum plugs, they have them big enough for the heater hose ports on the water pump if that's what you are talking about.

 

I read somewhere on here that capping the waterpump is not good. I found a hose that worked. It is 5/8 hose so you have to use a little hose stretcher on one end. I also see that this Pt# will work as well -gates b87629.

 

I did get a little done today.









Put the factory plug back in.



Friend of mine had this port he tapped so I used it.








And why not, They claim to make more power..
Got the radiator in and fans on. Spent 1/2 the day looking for a fitting that doesn't exist. I believe The Autometer Number above is the correct one. I couldn't wait that long.
A few steps closer.

 

Lol I know right?? I have a 2 bay shop so I had to push mine off the lift so that I can do Simultaneous cam swaps on a pair of GTO's lol. But I do wish I was busier but at the same time I need someone to help with the workload I already have...

 

Do you have oil pressure now? That is scary.

 

Yeppers! Did you get your transmission back in? I sure want a ride in your Vette!

 

I got it in this weekend. I need to get the driveshaft back in place and filler up.
Ride in it? Dude you're driving.

 

THAT'S what I'm Talkin about!!

 

OK, HELP! What Transmission dipstick and tube are most of us using for these swaps?? Have we found an OE that will work (Be able to mount to the trans and clear the hood).

Trans is out again. needed to get the correct dipstick tube and need to lengthen the O2 wires. Found out the hard way that with those wires short I would have to remove the trans to plug them in! I like it tight, but not that tight!

 

I am using a lokar dipstick and I just mounted my dipstick on the firewall.