Well it looks like the 700R4 Dipstick will have to do.... Twisted the braket some and trimmed it a bit and it goes into place. Problem is there is no hole in the block. I am bonding a nut in the hole of the bell housing so that it may be functional for the dipstick. I was trying to find a rubber well nut to fit the bill but no dice. this will either hold or not....





One step closer....

 

Here is a idea for you. On the side of the hole you epoxied the nut in, drill then tap a small hole, use a small allen setscrew to hold and help keep the nut from turning. You could also put a divit in the nut to help the setscrew do its job...

 

Nifty idea! Was thinking of what to do when the nut broke loose from the bonding... Not that it was gonna happenLOL!


Well, drilled a hole throught the Bell housing and nut and put a roll pin in place. Seems like it will hold.

 

I used the original 700R4 dipstick with the hold down cut off and a conduit clamp to hold it to the back of the head

 

That would have been easier than what I just did, Oh well, it's in.


Got everything hooked up and i have no fuel pressure. Tested the pump before installing so I will see if I can find that fuel pump circut again and see where I went wrong...

 

Looks like its back to the shop, Been looking for a fuel pump relay pinout here for an hour with no luck......................Gotta get my book.........

 

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...se_control.jpg

There you go

Differences are the output to the pump will be TAN/WHT for your year and the computer control is R9

 

Pocket you are awesome thanks for all you do.

 

Hey, That's my line!!! LOL! Yes Pocket, A life saver you are. Actually I made another "Rookie Move" I never tightened down the R and B connectors at the PCM!!! They were on there and I guess I got disstracted and never tightened them down.

OK, So now I have the pump cycling when I turn on the key YAY! Problem now is I have no Fuel pressure. I can dissconect the fuel line from the engine and hot wire the pump and all I get out of the line is a small weeping of fuel. I am assuming the regulator in the pump is bad..... I am told you can buy just the regulator for an in tank unit??

 

Anyone know how to test the in tank regulator for the 01 LS1 tank and pump? I will check fuel pressure when I go back home to get my gauge and I bet My problem is the pump but while I have it out, how do you test the regulator?

 

Small Update: Checked fuel pressure just to be sure,




And so, with no fuel pressure and the pump working I had to investigate.
Time to drop the tank again.



Pulled the module assembly back out and started looking for a split in the hose or something??? Hey, there is no REGULATOR in here!!! SOME BIATCH!!! They sent me a tank and pump from a V6............ Now this is something I never thought to even look for when I got this used assembly....I did specify V8 when I ordered It!! From what I do know The V6 and V8 tanks are the same????????????????? Can somebody give me a quick shout on that??




There ya go!! Fortunately they are sending me a V8 unit and will swap it out for no charge, I just have to wait till Wednesday to get it. Oh well, My 0-90 OHM sender and Racetronix pump will be here tomorrow so may be Wednesday I can throw this sucka back together and hear it run!!!

Normaly I don't think anyone like to point out thier "Bonehead" moves but if anyone can learn from my mistakes please do.

Untill then. I hope the tank is the same????

 

From what Ive read the v6 and v8 tanks are the same minus the regulator.

How come you didnt use the 4L60E dipstick? Ive only seen one person use it and was wondering if they dont fit or something?

 

1st, Somebody at my shop threw it away.
2nd. If I remember correctly it was way long and attatched to the cowling on the 4th gen cars (nothing to attatch to on third gen). If I remember correctly. Somewhere on LS1Tech they disscussed a Corvette tube and indicator which I may need to go to later. Being as there is no way on God's green earth you can change it without removing the trans I will just live with the 700 tube. From What I can tell I will have to modify the coil braket on the passenger side as it is against it and wont relax.

 

Hmm when I pulled the drivetrain out of the donor car it was just bolted to the back of the head. Either way I guess I'll figure out which to use when the time comes for swap #2.

Racetronix is top notch. Using there fuel pump and couldn't be happier.

 

Thanks for the correction, I just found a pic of mine like that and yes, it was attatched to the head.

Got my Pump and sender in, now must wait for the correct module to get here tomorrow.

 

Thats the original reason why I hacked the hold down off my original tube. Got the trans in after much swearing and... now the tube doesnt fit. With the hold down gone it will slide in, with a little force

 

Was realy hoping for a start up vid today.... Got the pump module in, pump swapped and sending unit complete. Installed it, Primed it, Blead the air out and All I get is a spin - no start......From what I see I have fuel, Fire And air. I guess back to the drawing board... I still dont know if the Park/Neutral wire on the PCM has to be hooked to something??? I don't know what it wants? Voltage - Ground?

 

R32 should be grounded

 

If vats has not been removed from the PCM, be sure your bypass module is hooked up correctly with good connections. Some switched 12v sources lose power during cranking, be sure to check for that.

 

VATS has been removed. I will Ground that and try again. Thanks.

 

Well I have air and fire and no injector pulse..................

 

Ouch, but you will track it down. All will be well.

 

I know LT1 and LS1 PCMs even though their OBD2, their very diffrent. But when I had no pulse and was researching how to find it I found that the opti sent the signal to the PCM saying it had spark, then the PCM said since theirs spark, send the signal for pulse, so the opti would in turn would send a pulsing ground signal to fire the injectors.

Now I know you dont have an opti so its completely irrelovent, but what im saying it works as a system to send inj. pulse, so find the sequecnce and chase it in reverse.

Good luck!

 

There should be power to the injectors if there is power to the coils(they are working). As previous post says, the pulse is controlled through the ground side. I do no know for sure, but I would think crank and or cam sensors are responsible for spark and injectors, not sure what else would be. I would check these two circuits as well.

 

Got it. IT LIVES! I had one bad connection on the 12V supply wire to the crank sensor! Fixed the wire, hit the key and this thing roared and started breathing fire!!! Took a while to get the **** eatin grin off my face . Open headers and a healthy cam never gets old! Have to figure out a drive belt for it and fill it with coolant, then I can run it longer than 20 seconds. Then I will tidy up the harness and re-install it. May be I can drive it soon. Still a ways to go but feel I have achieved a milestone. Thanks all of you for your help, stick around I will need more.

 

Congrats man, feels good eh? lol

 

Awesome dude! That grin will be there for a bit! Glad you were able to trace your problem without a ton of heartache.

 

Hes right, I chased that problem for almost a month, all up-hill from here man

 

Some small start up vids - 1st one I forgot to hook up the Vac hose for the brake booster so I had a little vac leak. There are many things left to do before She will be road worthy. This is just an engine with some oil in it. No belt Or coolant yet. Is anyone running a Zinc Additive to the engine oil for these? I knew the Flat Tappet cams were having issues with todays oils but I thought rollers were safe?




2nd.

 

Now no cooling fans, I will get with my programer to see where he set the parameters for these. Seems I am getting no signal from PCM? Not sure but the green wire for fan #1 and the blue wire for fan #2 should be sending a ground signal to the relays? I have Green/White and Tan/white wires on both relays, neither of whitch will trigger the fans. When I go into it with the scanner it will not even let me overide to turn them on. I get a messege that says - Device control limit exeeded - Coolant temp too high. The scanner was reading 258 coolant temp. This was a few minutes after shutting it down at 245. Not sure what to do.................

 

I guess from what I am seeing I need to put the Tan/White relay wires together and run them back to C207 and then the green Fan 1 wire to one of the gree/white relay wires and the blue to the other relays green/white wire. Sound right.

 

What happens if you ground the wires you hooked up tp the PCM. I would try that to rule-out the tune or LS PCM.I wish I were more familiar with your wiring but you should have 2 trigger wires. Mine has two fans grounding out either of those wires triggers the relay corresponding to that fan.

 

the blue and green pcm fan wires are ground signal wires for the fan relays.if the scanner is reporting the device exceeds limits and you cant command them on manually.Im safely going to assume your relay wiring is not correct. To make trouble shooting your fans from the pcm try this:

Disconnect both blue and green pcm signal wires from your relays. Now you can take some wire..maybe even put a small 5amp fuse on it and temporarily wire it to a good ground source.now try to manually trigger each fan relay.if the relays/wiring is correct then the fan should turn on and confirm you pcm is not turning the fans on..or you have your relays on a positive(12v) trigger setup.

I made my own fan relay setup with new bosch 40amp relays and simplified the wiring.Hope that helps in someway

 

Oh and something else does not seem right with the coolant reading that high! Did the motor overheat? At those temps..the ecm should command both fans on.

What sensor are you using for your coolant temp and for your coolant gauge on the dash? I used the 98 ls1 style sensor that has 3 wires and I had my ecm signal wire and the gauge wire backwards and the ecm had a weird reading and my coolant gauge never moved.I was anxious and got em mixed up before initial fire..we all been there :P

 

Well, this is a 2000 Camaro 4L60E dipstick:




It bolts to the back of the head. I installed it with the engine/trans in (had misplaced it while the engine/trans was in the storage unit waiting for install).

 

THAT DID IT! DUH, The tan/white are POSITIVE and the triggers Are Negative.......

FYI - I don't have any ASE certs and I only work on my own vehicles..

 

Oh Yeah! It was that warm. I turned it off when the gauge hit 240. By the time I hooked the scanner up it had heat soaked a bit. If nothing else the rings are seated!!


I'm sure the PCM did command them on but it does no good when there is no keyed voltage to the relays

My temp sender/ wiring and PCM are all 98. The gauge was reading correct. It was HOT! I't all good now.


Five7kid - Good to know, Thanks. If mine hadn't grown legs My life would have been easier thats for sure.

 

Can I GO?

 

lol glad to see you fixed your issues..small simple things that can create such a scare.well yes the rings are seated now haha..she got nice and hot.i never let mine get past 200*..sits nicely at 160-170* on a hot summer day.

sounds like your ready for a test drive

 

LOL! You are in Canada! Here in Texas it would be hard to keep the temp that low. Not at Idle, My cooling fans would melt!

 

Time for the resistor. 470 OHM. the guy at the Shack asked me what watts? I had no clue so went for these.




Now lets see where to hook this thing up. I was thinking the emission Hot at the c207. We'll give it a try.

 

OK, Alternator works!! YAY!!

I think the last thing I need to figure out is the A/C wiring. I have been searching for some time with no luck. Is there a simple diagram here that will show what to do with the wires From 89 Iroc to 98 LS1? Clutch, High pressure ect.

 

At the momant these wires are my main concern. the 1st is the plug at the firewall. it goes into this connector with 3 wires and comes out 2???




The second is at the pressure switch on the liquid line. I see nothing in the Chiltons book that even has a grey and black wire??

 

OK, I figured out the switch on the liquid line. It was in the engine harness not A/C?????

Anyway, found it here Fig. 43 and 45.

I am still wondering why there are 3 wires in the 1st pic and then go to two? It is a solid DK green wire that just dissapears........... the diagram says it should be light green coming from the Control head... Oh My, What have I done.......

 

Got a little further with the A/C wiring yesterday. It looks as though I wont be using these wires at all.



Using the 98 PCM and adding the A/C clutch relay to the system will work best. I will have to see if the 98 Pressure switch will fit on the 89 liquid line? if not I may have to have the proper tap welded to the line and hopefuly that will be all for that.

 

Gonna head to the salvage yard leter today to get a liquid line with sensor to merge into the 89 system but in the meantime I got the CAI figured out.

 

Allright Fellas, I could realy use some help. I would love to see some pics of any modafications that have been done to the AC box where it interferes with #8 coil before I go hacking at this thing and do something I shouldn't. Please, If you have a pic, share it...

 

My #8 coil hit the airbox just a hair. I elongated the mounting holes and moved it a bit. Its not a Camaro but may work for you as well.

 

I just checked my pics. Sorry, did not take one. But I did cut the box.
However, you do not need to cut MUCH!
Then I glassed it in, on the inside.

 

I cheated - put truck coils on the passenger side. They mount up higher (closer to the middle of the engine) than f-body coils.

Oh, on the transmission dipstick - when I started my install, I couldn't find the dipstick, either. It was lost in the bowels of the storage unit. Further foraging located it, but not until after I had stabbed the engine/trans. Getting it in with them already installed was a challenge.

(Now if I could find those LS3 rockers and rocker stands in the storage unit...)