Nice project. keep it up.

LOL! Wish you luck finding those in the bowels of your storage unit! LOL!

I stole my bosses truck coils off his 5.3 and it would not fit either??? With or with out truck braket still no room? Will post a pic.

This is with the truck coils and braket.

NO BUENO!

THANKS! Yours turned out SWEET!

Can you somehow flip the coil or turn it on its side and use a longer wire? Just a thought.Or If you have a drill press fab a bracket that would relocate the coil using recessed screws from the bottom.

I could glue it to the windsheild if I really wanted to! LOL! If I can have them uniform I would rather have it done that way.

Yours will too.

Okay, there is more than one kind of truck coil.

I probably have a better pic somewhere, but this is the best I could find right now.




What mounts are you using?

There must be cause those coils sit much higher than the ones I have seen. I am using the stock mounts with poly inserts and the brakets are from Hawks.

I tried to grind down my AC box to fit the F-body coils and couldn't get them to fit no matter what. I ground the box down as far as I thought possible and still no luck. In your picture I ground the whole tab off until it was flush with the AC box. I ended up buying a set of the D585 truck coils with the heat sink on them. On the passenger side in the back, even with the AC box ground off and with the truck coils my wire still rubs. Not enough to cause an issue but it does touch. Maybe try the D585 coils, grind the box down or if it like mine I had to do both.

Any Idea what the D585 coils came on?

In order to get that coil to fit using the stock truck bracket you'll need to grind the bracket a bit in order to tilt the coil (essentially enlarging the hole the coil sits in). Re-drill and tap new bolt holes.

This is what I did for a short term fix while I made custom brackets. I'll see if I can dig up some pictures and post a bit later.

Cool, please do. The more I thought about it the more I thought I just needed to modify the bracket for #8 coil. Keep costs down as I still need to pay for exhaust and such. Spent 10 hours yesterday soldering wires and still have more than half still left to do. UGH! I think I have solder smoke poisoning! Lol!

OK, will get back to the coil thing later. For now, How in the heck did yall mount the PCM under the dash? It is OOBER BIGGER! Are we lust Zip-tiying it to the factory bracket and cramming it in there??

Almost done!

I cut up my stock PCM mount. Or you can easily fab one up.

I cut up a older TPI PCM mount, flipped it backwards and used a roll of Velcro to he the PCM to the TPI computer bracket. Fabbed a small bracket that bolted to the bottom of the TPI bracket, and screwed to the bottom of the dash using existing holes to keep it held up.

Mine's in the passenger footwell. Would not fit anywhere else when attached.

Just so I have a better idea. Whitch way are your wires pointing? Up, Down, to the driver, to the passenger?

Plugs on PCM face passenger side. Can take pics....

jazzdadss -

What cold air intake system did you use or did you fabricate it?

If you still have my # you can send them to my phone Thanks!

I purchased the 4" conversion system from hawks but found it needed to be modded and I needed more pieces to complete it to my liking. Still wish I would have done a 3.5" system. Would have been more room and I figure it doesnt need to be bigger than the MAF anyway....

Will post pics tonight on here, or send them to your phone.

jazzdadss-
Thanks for the reply. I really like the clean look your system had in the pictures and my MAF measures 4" at the mouth where the intake tube attaches. As a note, I am running a 5 pin MAF from a truck 6 liter Vortec and would like to end up with something very close to what I see in your pictures.

Got my wiring straightened out and loomed up. got to move it today down the street and up on our drive on rack so i could adjust the pan-hard bar. This is for sure a different Animal!! Loud as hell! Exhaust next and then the tune.............

What are your plans for exhaust?

For now it's just best to keep it simple, Stockish. 2.5 to 3 then back to 2.5. Later when I step up the intake, Throttle body and MAF I think it will be worth it to do a dual 2.5 or may be a single 3.5???
I'm sure it will be choking it a bit but must get this thing running and legal!

hey if u dont mind me asking how much was the whole build

Good question. I lost track a while back!!
Doner car - 1500
Motor rebuild - 5500
Trans rebuild - 2000
drive shaft - 430
rear control arms and panhard and relocate - 275
torque arm - 250
rear end - 500
hoses, coolant, oils, filters - 150
CAI - 240
Tune - 375
I'm sure I am forgetting stuff.

I sold my truck to fund this project and it seems I should have sold my wife's vehicle also

It's all good, Like I told my wife, when I am done, even if I have 20K wrapped up in it I would pay double for this kind of performance with anything I could just go buy. Plus, I love Third gens!

I do have a question about one more wire. the MIL check engine light wire. anyone know what wire on the 89 to hook it to?

Has anyone hooked up their check engine light?

R37 from the 98 ls1 PCM to "C" on the C207(brown/white) for the 89.

Thanks a million!!
Exhaust coming next week.

Looking good!!!

Exhaust

Tune-time!

Looking good

Well I wish I could say it's tune time!! I have to replace the three "Lap Banding Clamps" I guess with standard band clamps. Bought the Summit brand clamps and all three are leaking. So as soon as I can stop it from leaking We will go set up a time for tune. Right now just waiting for an open rack to get those clamps swapped out......................................

Damn.... wish i would've gone with the double hump crossmember.... Exhaust looks good!!

Well, word to the wise. Do not find a cheap place to do your exhaust. Wish I had the stuff to do it myself. The whole exhaust is trash! They said it was my clamps but after getting it on a rack and taking it apart it is screwed to say the least. Starting over with a different shop.... At least this shop is giving me a refund.

Buy DIY pieces from jegs or summit. It's not cheap or easy or fast even, but you'll get EXACTLY what you want

If I already had a chop saw and a welder you can bet I would do it myself!

Patiently waiting, Should have the Iroc back in the morning. I hope I am happy with it and there are no leaks! My tuner is gonna squeeze me in as long as there are no leaks....... Saying a prayer!

Small update, Got the car back and man what a difference!!! Looks great, sounds great!!! One small problem. put it in park and watched the car start to roll away!!!! Was able to catch it and stop it! Found out that the clip that holds the shifter cable in place at the shifter is missing. Funny, I never messed with it??? Any way, anyone know where to source one of these clips?? again , it holds the shifter cable in place at the shifter bracket inside the car. Thanks!!

Have to, have to love the LS... the motor our cars were waiting for.... sounds great... ENJOY!

Thank you Sir! Now, If I can only find this shifter cable retainer...................................................................................................................

Try Florida Auto Fasteners on Ebay or Altha Fasteners on the net, same place. They have all sorts of odd car bits. Maybe what you need. Also, Hawks has gotten into stocking odd parts... maybe them.

Exhaust - Round 2












I like this set up much better! Mainly cause it dont leak! YAY!

Bout time to start ripping the streets apart