UPDATES???

 

We're waiting for the engine builder to free up some time to work on our engine. We decided on a color for the Camaro, it's on the 2014 Malibu, some kind of metalic blue. We just have to get the code then we'll start painting the engine bay and interior. I want to get the engine in the car before I start on the wiring. That way I can run and dress the harnesses. I found a site www.LT1swap.com that has a lot of information. Our PCM is finned aluminum and we want to polish it, but it is rough, Any ideas how to polish it?

 

I saw your thread on your swap. I noticed you're in NC. I'm close to Charlotte. Where are you in relation to Charlotte?

 

I'm in Rocky Mount. About 45 minutes west of Raleigh and about 4 hours from Charlotte.

 

Yesterday, I picked up a set of LT1 aluminum heads. Now the engine will be a little lighter. The heads will hit the shop next week for a valve job and resurfacing.

 

A few questions have popped up. It has been said that when the LT1 SBC is brought up to 383 with aluminum heads, that over temperature control becomes a problem. Has anyone on here experienced this problem? If so, what did you do about it? I'm going with an electric coolant pump which is working great on my Vette, but it is still a 350. Comments?

 

Good friend of mine did a 10:1 383 LT1 with factory heads for his 94 Formula. He had the car with that engine for two summers and he never had any issues with overheating.

 

Thanks, I needed to hear that before we start the rebuild of the motor.

 

my dad has a 383 lt1 and the only time it reaches 200+ range is when its stop and go traffic and thats in central TX, and the Carolinas dont get hot like TX lol. youll be fine!

 

Thanks. Does your Dad have a OE coolant pump or electric? On my Vette, the electric keeps a constant flow even at idle which keeps her cool even in touch and go traffic here in the Carolinas. I think I might run a poll on this question.

 

hes got the meizer spell check that lol waterpump and a be cool radiator ad a 160 thermostat.

 

Same here buddy LT1 z28 ele pump and 160 stat ,,he abuses it at the track and on the street NO overheating issues

 

Thanks, you guys are making me feel better about my 383 plans.

 

We haven't done much lately except collecting parts. The heads will be ready this week and hopefully, the engine builder will be ready to start on our build. Oh, BTW, I have a set of LT1 iron heads that I won't be using. Any interest in them?

 

Update.

Our work lately has been to the Caprice. We've been breaking it down to sell off parts. Still waiting on the engine builder.

 

update: We got our T56 tranny, Gen4 pedals, hydraulic clutch assembly, a complete disc brake rear end,a drive shaft (came with the T56), used flywheel and clutch assembly, and most of the hardware.

Questions: On my 83 manual (manual linkage setup) tranny Camaro, I removed the pedal assembly and was trying out the gen 4 pedal assembly for fitness. When I attached the hydraulic clutch master cylinder to the pedal I noticed that I need to cut a hole in the firewall to allow for the cylinder to fit. Is there a boot that surrounds the cylinder as it passes through the firewall? Anybody have a picture of the hole that needs to be cut? Also, the accelerator pedal doesn't seem to fit on the studs. Others have said that the pedals fit perfectly. Am I doing something wrong?

 

There is no grommet for the master cyl. Mount the pedals sans master and mark where the two brace rods are on the firewall. Use a hole saw for the master. Own used an oval hole which is difficult to reproduce. Oversize the hole as needed

When using 4th gen perhaps the throttle pedal is cut off and the 3rd gen pedal reused. Don't forget to oval the upper mount hole as the newer cars are approx 1/4" off

 

Thanks for the tips. What about the booster? Do the bolts line up or do I have to go with a Gen4 brake booster?

 

I believe the thirdgen brake booster bolts are larger, so you'll have to enlarge the holes on the brake/clutch pedal assembly.

 

You are correct on the larger bolts on the 3rd gen booster. Today we picked up another 95 Z28 Camaro rear end. The other one we have is way too rusty. The northeast is tough on the undercarriage. Now it's time to do some major clean up of the drive train. I hope the 95 rear end just bolts in place. We're changing over to disc brakes in the rear. Anything I need to know about this?

 

The 4th gen rear is a bit wider than a 3rd gen rear, but does physically bolt in place. You'll need the torque arm from a 85-up Fbody. The 82-84 cars I have personally came across have a shorter torque arm mount boss on the rear end. The Ebrake cakes are different from a drum brake rear to a disc brake rear. The proportioning valve should also be changed to one meant for a 4 wheel disc setup. Don't be surprised if the brake line fittings don't have mat hint threads between your 83 and the newer disc brake parts. You'll either be making new brake lines, or cutting the tubes to replace the nuts and re-flaring them a minimum.

 

 

Thanks. Great info. I have a 95 torque arm and we just bought a double flaring tube tool. I have to look at the E-brake set up, but we'll get to that later in the build. First things first, we want to get the drivetrain in the car so we can run all the "life support systems" to the engine, brakes and electrical. Before that, some painting will have to be done. There is more to this project than meets the eye. We keep asking ourselves is this worth it?

 

More updates

We got the 83 fuel tank out and it is in mint condition! Now we have to find the fuel tank assembly that holds the fuel pump. BTW, anybody know what the LT1 fuel injection system requires in gallons per minute? Will the Gen 3 TPI pump work on the LT1? We priced a new Fuel tank assembly at AutoZ @ $186 without the fuel pump. Seems a little pricey.

 

TPI pump will work fine.
IDK about gpm, but in psi:
(quote source is post #3 here:http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...ave-a-question)

 

Also got the pedal assembly mounting holes drilled out to fit the 83 booster assembly. I have to look at the gas pedal as my 83 gas pedal is different than the 4th Gen set up. So many little things getting in the way.

Differential. I have 3 10 bolt differentials all of them are Auburn posi. My service manual says the units are not serviceable. One of them has about 30K on it and I'll probably use it. Then I found out how much the tool cost to remove the side bearings on the carrier. I broke my bearing separator trying to remove the bearings, even used a little heat. Hopefully I'll find a shop around here that can remove them. What posi units do guys use now days? Eaton? I don't want a locker as this will be a daily driver.

 

Thanks for the come back. At the autoZ store they listed the pumps in gallons /minute not psi. I also have to figure out what injectors I'm going to need to feed the 383 with a GM hot cam.

 

You'll most likely get a lot of differing opinions on posi units. I am running a eaton, because it is relatively cheap and easy to service. I am happy with it.

As for the carrier bearings, I usually try the bearing seperator and press method first. When that fails, I have had good luck using a cut off wheel to cut the bearing cage off and expose the pressed-on race. With the race exposed, grind one side down as close to the carrier as you can possibly get without going through. Once you have one side nearly ground off, hit it with a little heat, and the bearing race with break at the thin spot.

Took me a few tries to get the hang of it, but once you figure out how to grind the race down VERY thin at one side, it pops every time with heat. Little trick a service tech friend of mine showed me.

 

for injectors, I like to go a little on the big side to leave a little room for upgrades down the road. I would say 36 or 42s.

 

IIRC I went with the BBK 255lph for tpi cars.

As long as it's properly tuned for the bigger injectors there's no reason not to go oversize on them to give yourself a little wiggle room for future improvements

 

Very informative technique. I'll try it since I have a couple carriers to practice on. Thanks

 

watch the LT1 oil pan up front so it doesn't get dinged. Doesn't take much of a dent to get the crank to hit it.

 

Just to let you guys know, I'm still working on it. We just hit a slow down due to other pressing issues.

 

We're looking into a fuel pump from aeromotive where you hole saw an opening (3 1/4" I think) and slip the unit in. It forms a baffle and has all the plumping set up for easy installation. Looks like the easiest way to go, BUT it cost around $400. Anybody use this system? Any feedback?

 

I hope everyone had a nice Christmas. Santa brought my son a mig welder! So, next we have to learn how to use it. Off to the scrap metal yard to find some pieces to practice on. This is an important step as we have a little fixing to do on the Camaro. You always need toys on Christmas.

 

It's easy. Most important part is the feed. You can get the heat set up just fine but if the wheel is slipping on the wire you'll have a bad time. Also, if you aren't using gas, get some good Lincoln Electric Flux Core. It will cut way down on splatter!

 

ive been watching your other thread at LTXtech, you should post pics or more but any updates since

 

Yesterday I got back from the welding supply store with the Argon/CO2 tank. I have some scrap metal and will be striking an arc today. It's time to start prep on the frame and small cracks in the trans tunnel. We're going to have fun today.

 

I really ought to spring for gas, but there's so little that I weld that I can't justify it, and I can't think of anything I've had to do that actually will be SEEN haha

 

We've been planning our next few steps and recovering from the money drain from Christmas. We should be back in action soon. I think our next area will be the fuel tank and pump. Once we get that back in we can get the differential installed and get the back end on the ground.

 

I'm in the same boat financially, but I'm also in an ironic turn of events: looks like I'll be getting a '95 LT1 Caprice soon haha.

 

Need any parts?

 

Undoubtedly. It's got three-hundred-forty-two-plus-thousand miles. Spelled that out so it seems as much as it really is haha. It was my uncle's who recently passed. My aunt says she has no problem with me taking it, but has to iron everything out first so it could be a week or a month before I can go up to Jersey to get it. It does run and goes into gear, but has no battery and I don't know if it'll really drive, let alone make the 7 hour trip down. The title says 120-something thousand on it, so I thought maybe the 342,xxx would be km. But I hit that button and it switched to 5xx,xxx km.

 

There is a forum that is oriented towards the Impala / Caprice
http://www.impalaforums.com

Just a thought, I bought some parts for my swap up in NJ and they were very rusty. You might want to put it up on a lift to see if it is sound enough for the drive or for the parts. And have a backup plan if it doesn't make it. You could always rent a trailer and tow it.

 

Here is the site for the Aeromotive fuel pump'

www.aeromotiveinc.com

Watch the videos. This is the direction we're looking at. Select fuel pumps and then go to the video on the left column.

 

I ordered the rotating assembly for my 383 LT1 yesterday, Monday, and will get the engine to the builder later this week. The weather here hasn't been conducive to working on the Camaro. I guess I didn't move far enough south.

 

Yesterday felt like Christmas as the rotating assembly showed up. Now it's off to the engine builder.

 

Now we're working on the frame part of the front end. The weather has started to cooperate. Unfortunately, our engine builder is really getting busy with the circle track guys. That's where his money is. The rotating assembly came in and it looks pretty nice. I've been working on the wiring harness. Using both helms manuals, I'm identifying each wire coming out of the PCM. The wires going to the auto trans are not going to be used so I'm weeding them out. There are several wires that I don't have a clue what they do. I'll ask about them later. Does anybody know how to undo the plugs that go into the PCM? I don't want to break the plastic cover part of these plugs, but I want to get to the back of them where the wires are inserted in so I can remove the wires cleanly. More later.

 

To remove the wires from the PCM plugs:

Use a small screwdriver or a pick tool to remove the colored covers from each PCM plug. On the narrow side of each colored cover, you will see a slot on each side with a white locking tab protruding out from it just a little ways. Press the white tab inwards and pull up on the colored cover to release one side, and repeat on the other side to remove the colored cap completely. Be sure to label the plug body before you remove the covers so you can out the correct colored cap back onto the PCM plug it originally came from!!!

Now, on the back of the plug, you can again use a small pick or screwdriver to gently pry the hinged halves apart to open up the rear of the PCM plug. You will see the locking tabs on the back that will need to released to allow you to do this.

Once the front caps are removed and the rear of the PCM plugs are opened up, you can now removed the pins from the plug. To do this, I like to insert a small pick tool I to the hollow end of the pin, and gently pull it toward the outer edge of the PCM plug. This will pull the locking tab outward as well. Hold the

 

To remove the wires from the PCM plugs:

Use a small screwdriver or a pick tool to remove the colored covers from each PCM plug. On the narrow side of each colored cover, you will see a slot on each side with a white locking tab protruding out from it just a little ways. Press the white tab inwards and pull up on the colored cover to release one side, and repeat on the other side to remove the colored cap completely. Be sure to label the plug body before you remove the covers so you can out the correct colored cap back onto the PCM plug it originally came from!!!

Now, on the back of the plug, you can again use a small pick or screwdriver to gently pry the hinged halves apart to open up the rear of the PCM plug. You will see the locking tabs on the back that will need to released to allow you to do this.

Once the front caps are removed and the rear of the PCM plugs are opened up, you can now removed the pins from the plug. To do this, I like to insert a small pick tool I to the hollow end of the pin, and gently pull it toward the outer edge of the PCM plug. This will pull the locking tab outward as well. Hold the locking tab outward, and push the pin back to its original position, and then push it down and out through the rear of the PCM plug.