A buddy of mine, manage to pick this black camaro up for me while I been play in he sand for a few months. Figure since I have two now might as well keep them both, make on a street/strip car (bb) and hulk strip/ street. Can t wait to get back to start work on them. If everything goes according to plans

BB
5.3 cammed w/ gogo juice and ac
Wiring from original setup and 4L60E from original
8.8 or 8.5 depends on what I get my hand in first.

HULK
Engine=? No clue yet, really want 454 lsx but cant justify 10 grand for 620hp
Think boost still have some parts from my melted turbo 5.3
Th400 built
9" or dana 60
Goal is have a really light car and run high 8s low 9s 1/4, 5s in 1/8
Want to run 275 real street.

 

Pics

 

So, would you guys and gals go 454 Lsx with nitrous or a boost application, for a goal of 5s 1/8 mile passes, or 408 nitrous

 

i woud go forged rods/pistons stock crank 6.0 and tt. or completely forged 408
spend ur cash on quality heads like afr or all pro and fuel system. no real need for lsx block. plenty if gm stock blocks have been in the 8s/1000+ hp.
a pair of tc78s support around 1500bhp. spool dam near instant with correct cam and induction. on a 408ci motor. around 1200rw thru 20% drivetrain loos est.

 

I will have to do a single set up, the 275 real street only allows one power adder I believe. 800whp should do it. I planning on HULK weight 2500lbs or less. Already got it down to 3052 with me in. I cut a lot of unnecessary weight before I left. Wait in minute, I might need to see if 275 has a weight restriction too. Might just havre to add weight for that class.

 

Well, I made it home safe from the sand, been doing a little work after family time. Trying to get the black car running. Got 4th rear out and install with 410 gears.( if anybody needs a set of have a set off 3:42 in good shape let me know) 5.3 on the stand with cam installed. I was debating on headers, but I wasnt sure they fit my 1" forward motor mounts plus I'm wondering how my port job will workout.

 

Combining nitrous oxide with a 60e?

 

And a full-aftermarket-only Powerglide, right? Since no other transmission can hold 1200 RWHP unless you're doing a big-rig 18-wheeler, I guess.

 

My original setup had that 60E, the only use is street driving and test and tune night for fun. Its built, it lasted on my first nitrous setup and my turbo 5.3@ 12 lbs of boost, I ended up melting pistons before for that 60 went. Its now just going back to a 5.3 with a 100shot every once in a blue moon.

 

As of right now Im planning on a TH400. And a build capable of 800-900 but only run 600-700. In a light body.

 

Still no OD, so the S-60 not having gears taller than 3.54:1 means still no road trips with it. 9" / 12-bolt won't live with 700 HP on race slicks.

 

Pics

 

The gears, and my little port job on the manifolds

 

Starting to come together

 

Intake set up looks good

 

We'll sometimes I feel like I just can't win. I started the car for the first time, cam sounds good but then I saw smoke, blue smoke, smh. So I pulled the plugs and the were black but this does look good.

 

Not good

 

After sitting a while ( this is the 5.3 right? ) who knows what got down those cylinders and a bit of smoke isnt out of the norm at first. If its knocking or ticking loud... thats another story. If the short is corked? Running it up to operating temp isnt going to hurt anything now so you might as well run it a bit and see if the smoke clears.

If your feeling ambitious you could pop the valve covers and make sure all the valvetrain is in good order. A LOT of stock springs break with age and pushrods bend/break easy from over rev. You can see any of that stuff with careful examination

 

was that a brand new plug?

 

You verify oil and fuel pressures are correct?

 

Yep that was a brand new plug, I let it run for about 10 mins. The spring pushrods are new with cam kit.

 

This was the spark plug hole

 

Fuel and oil pressure where normal 60psi fuel and about 30-45 psi oil at idle

 

Somethings definitely not right then. Do a compression test and a leakdown on all cyls and report back. Id also pop the valve covers and have a look see. Did you verify preload is correct? Inspect the valve seals while your in there

 

I took off the valve cover everything looks normal. Guess I pulling the motor out. And getting a rebuild.

 

You didnt over fill the oil by chance either right? Id be doing a LOT of checks before I pulled it, but suit yourself. 4-5 hrs of trouble shooting should find the culprit just in case it isnt the rings vs weeks of certain downtime plus big expense of rebuild, plus rings failures are not all that common. Rings gumming up sure are though, Seafoam sometimes takes care of that

 

I looked at the spark plug again and I thought it was melt shaving on the plug but I forgot put anti-seize, I feel like a dumb a** but I still have the oily spark hole issue, maybe my valve seal were not correctly installed. Tomorrow I will do a compression check

 

Umm ya i saw that, when its aluminum from the piston? Typically theres no ground electrode left on the spark plug, as its rather melted, and dry.... Anyways if you installed the seals yourself you need to use a 12pt 10mm deep socket iirc (or is it 12 Anyways see link below ) or a seal installer and there is a definite "click" when they are seated. Search "valve seal install" over at tech and other combos of those words and you'll find how to's and theres some handy info in the link provided

Good luck bud

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

 

Had the day off today so I got a chance to do a compression check. #1 120,150,160,#3-120,150,155,#5-120,150,180,#7-120,150,180. #2-120,150,180,#4-150,150,180,#6-120,150,170,#8-120,150,180. At this point I'm assuming it's the rings because of gradually increasing pressure, then I added a little oil to the cylinders. #1-150,160,180, #3 150,230,230 I stopped there, no need to do the rest. It's most definitely the rings. Good news is junkyard already said just bring it back and they will give me another. I might ask can I keep this one and buy another a Half price. Happy but sad cause it sounds really good with the cam in it. I also might see if I can a6.0 at half price instead of the 5.3

 

Got the car back together and off to mayhem for a tune. And low and behold I noticed a wheel wobbling on the dyno. Took the wheel off and brake rotor and let the axles spin while car was on jack stands, so some how I have a bent axle. Only time the car as been up to speed is on the dyno. I think the guy that put my gears in did something wrong. This car is becoming a pain in my***. Now I'm torn, do I do my 8.8 swap now or just replace the axles?

 

IMHO, Do the swap, no use putting more money in something you're wanting to change anyway.


Thanks you for your service, Glad you made it home safe.

 

Thank you

 

I ended up going to the junk yard getting a axle out if trans am. Installed it and no more wheel wobble. But now the car has really bad wheel hop,this the first the car been driven hard, when doing a burn out or launching it. Sound like the rear end is about to come apart. My friends at the track say it really bad when looking at it. So I thought with boxing my LCA and poly bushing and 50/50 shocks. The car hasn't been lowered, and has about the same power as stock LS1. So I would assume the stock torque arm is fine. Any other suggestions?

 

Next time I will just buy new control arms, it took too much time to stiffen these and install the bushings.

 

As mentioned bushings needed as well as good shocks. KYB gas ajusts are low buck and decent rear springs. Make sure the bushing at the torque arm mount and the trans mount are poly too or you will run into other issues as well. Glad you got it sorted

 

I went with Lakewood 50/50 shocks. The transfer is good on a lunch, hit the gas squats and burns the tires right off. No wheel hop!!! I took in back to local track today and there where 3 cars and two trucks. I got in 4 passes in 10 mins it was too cold I had to go home. Cold weather plus no rubber on track equals a lot of spinning, but hey no wheel hop. Now after Christmas I will invest in a Pair of drag radials since I had to sell mine to help pay for a expensive tune from Mayhem.

 

Want to get your opinion, a guy put me on the spot called me out in front of my whole shop. So everyone has hyped this race up. Money is going in the pot. Cars are Camaro tuned 5.3 cammed, stall(3000) 410 gears, nitto 555 vs 86 Chevy truck tuned 6.0,headers,373 gears,et street. Who you would put your money on?

 

. video

 

Got my nitto 555r on the car, they good to me. Makes me want to black it out completely.

 

Dyno sheet for BB it needs headers, what size stall would you go with? I was thinking 3000 footbrake, 3800-4000 flash.