A few posts up the question was raised about who actually "makes" the superchargers. Rick was correct in stating that Eaton makes the "guts" and that the Aftermarket companies do the integration.

It's always humorous when people compare superchargers with identical internals and think one is better than the other.

I look forward to your build! I just bought back my 1988 IROC (clone) and am planning a T56 / LS1 swap.

Actually if you compare a Maggie, Harrop, Edelbrock, GM 2300 all on same engine you will get completely different numbers. Even though the size of the "guts" are the same the design of the package are totally different. YES it's been tested time and time again.

(I don't want to hijack a great build thread, so I won't go any further than this reply...)

I'd be interested in reading some of the tests showing the performance differences from one supercharger to the next that you referenced. I'd expect that the highest level of detail the tests give on the internals is something vague like "Eaton TVS Gen X" - but that's like saying "I own a fast car" (type? make? model?). Without specific Eaton part numbers it's impossible to say that they have the same internals.

My guess is that the actual Eaton part numbers for the internals (gearing / screw design / etc) are unique depending on the application. Plus, with variables like pulley size, housing shape, screw design / coating, interface specifications, and a multitude of other factors I don't think it's easy to get an apples to apples comparison anyway.

My point? Aftermarket companies brag about their hardware, when in reality there's a LOT more shared / common parts than the public thinks. For example, compare bypass valves in most new superchargers - the aneroid/valve/housing are almost identical because they're coming from 1 place.

That right there s the KEY. yes the internals can be the same but port size,shape, entry angles , exit angels for air flow all make a difference. A few cfm here a few there will make a small diff. to a huge diff.

Fantastic thread. Subscribed for updates

Did some work on my LS1. Its all stripped down to the bare essentials. I've cleaned and degreased it, and painted it standard black.





When I get back from vacation in a few weeks I'm going to finish removing the gasket material stuck on the block, and bring it all to the shop for the swap. Before I drop it off I'll try to get some updated pic of the repainted engine bay

LSX motors are soooo cool looking...geeze. I gotta do an LQ4...

Keep it coming and don't forget to include lessons learned (or as I call them: "DOH!" moments).

well yesterday I stopped at RPM Transmissions in Anderson, IN. I met Jeremy who was really nice. He gave me a tour of their shop, showed me some of their shop race cars, some customer cars.and also where they do all their work.

For world record holding transmissions, I was a little surprised to see only about 10 people working there.

They said for what im looking for, a stock rebuild with some key upgrades (shift pads, keys, iron forks) should be fine. I also opted for the SFI bellhousing because I like my feet and if I have a horrible clutch failure, it will all hopefully stay contained. Think of it like a driveshaft loop for your clutch

Anyway, I pick it up in 2 weeks on my way home.

Good idea on the SFI bellhousing. I think anybody that has any horsepower at all is crazy if they don't use one. Using a motor plate between the flywheel and the block is a good idea too. It might save your motor if you have a catastrophic clutch failure.

Just a heads up for down the road and you get the bellhousing and headers on. I think some people had to grind their bellhousing when using a SFI bellhousing with Hawks/Stainless Works headers.

ok thank you

All I want to say is this, MAGGIIEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!! Subscribed.

Looking good

engine bay is painted







k member notch to clear f body ac compressor

some of my parts

Just got a SHOCK on the rebuild price of myT56 apparently after 200k miles it needed some hard parts and they are NOT cheap. But now I have a "level 5" transmission good for 750 rwhp.*sigh*

looks like you still got alot of wiring left lol..are you doing it yourself ?

yes T56 rebulds and LSX rebuilds at a reputable shop are nothing less then $1200-1500 for stock rebuilds i feel your pain lol throw in couple extra parts and price jumps .. you prob can get cheaper rebuilds but i wouldnt trust them especially if they dont specialize in them ..

Looking nice tho .. makes me want to get a supercharger now ..have to wait or ill never get my swap done lol

pcm of NC is doing the wiring. most everything I need is there since I did the obd2 swap. all unnecessary wiring will be removed. I want the bah to be as clean as possible when done.

The price of fuel fittings, hoses, regulator, gauges, etc. is what SHOCKS me....$110 for 2 lines and 4 fittings is REDONKULOUS. Not to mention what I've already spent on various other fuel components.

if you're talking about hawks fuel line swap pieces, I think its almost reasonable giving me has went through the headache of making a bolt on piece for a thirdgen, but it does have the typical hawks inflation built in too lol

you going to spend close to what hawks pay for you prob save like $20 or so bucks at the end of the day not worth the hassle ..but if your doing any LS swap your already spending a great deal of money anyways

all loaded up for the trip to NC

You're going to need new license plates.

I know! Ive been wondering what to get. I'm thinking TVS WS6 because most people would have no clue what it means

engine is cleaned and loaded in van for the trip. officially all packed up. have to make a stop at tick performance tomorrow to get a slave cylinder and a REAL adjustable master.

Isn't TVS the brand? I'd do TVSFord for laughs

tvs refers to the supercharger and stands for Twin Vortices Series

This is an awesome build and will be a badass car when its done! Keep the magnafow tips how you have them! They look perfect

I like them too, but the 4" mufflex will have a hideaway tailpipe.

Poll:

Should I keep my existing catback or go with the 4"?

4in. :thumb:
borla makes a 4in dia tips thst the c6/c6 crowd use alot.

If it were my car, I would try hooking up a pressure gauge and see how much or little pressure is in the exhaust when driving the car. This way you can confirm if the exhaust you already have is sufficient for your motor, or if you need a 4". Contrary to popular belief there is such a thing as too much exhaust.

Motor is assembled.

Damnit wheres the money shot w/ the blower sittin on top!!?

be patient!

powdercoating is done

Blower is on, and wiring is being test fit.

Looks great! What are your plans for hood clearance?

crossing my fingers. I have a ram air 1 hood now which has like a 2.5" cowl.

that engine stand looks a little sad LOL

Well, if you wanted to get rid of that engine stand, I'll hold onto that motor for you.

nice try lol

We can test fit it in my car if you'd like, see if the hood clears and how it drives

Looking good bro

I dont see a cog setup on there tho? Lol

I'm not going to do one right now.

got some more spy shots of the engine this morning. Work should resume on the car later this week.

nice

Do you have to use elbows for the heater hoses coming straight off the pump? That seems like it would be a tight squeeze.

We will have to see how it turns out.

Just ordered a dual fuel pump setup (Walbro 255s) in a 4thgen tank from Hawks. Should get a couple extra gallons of gas too, I think.

looks like they decided to drop the k member out of my car to mount the engine.