Hey guys been a few months since I have posted here but I found a motor for my swap. originally I was going to try and push a 5.3L to 400 horsepower by cam swap and bolt ons but I just came across this ly6 with no miles on it . Best part about it, it was free! Tipped over at a chevy dealership head is slightly cracked so I'm gonna replace that soon But this motor stock is rated at like 380 crank horsepower If I remember right. So my new goal is to reach around 450+ to the wheels. Anyways I'll try to keep this short, anyone who has built a 6.0 what cam is good for ripping it up at the drag strip, but can still be drivin on the road if there happens to be some slow moving traffic? I don't need this car as a daily driver but I would love to take it out on the weekends and find some twisty roads. motor will be hooked to a t56 super magnum and a fourth gen rear, zip replica rims and preformace tires. My one other concern is I have heard of people frames twisting with 400+ horsepower any way to make sure this does not happen? Any help is appreciated!
Info on car - 91 firebird - 3.1L v6 - auto

 

there are alot of good LS cams out there that will do the job your looking for. GM makes a nice hot cam i used in my 98 camaro z28 and it dyno'ed at 415 at the rear wheels before the 125 shot of NOS. it ran great until I snapped the rear-end out of it.
as far as the frame i use weld in sub-frame connectors and a strut tower brace.
im running a 496 BBC i my 91 right now and i have no issue's with twisting because i have weld-in subframe connectors. i can jump the front wheel over a coke can. only issue my be stress cracks in the wheel wells and at the seams where the quarter panels connect with the roof on each side behind the windows.

 

my car was a v-6 ,they have a better gear than v-8 cars come with so it will be faster than if you did the swap in a v-8 car v-6 car came with 3.23

 

Hey thanks couchmotors, that helps a ton. I have my car in at the body shop I work at, I removed all the paint where the quarters weld up to the roof already the welds look strong on the driver side still and I replaced the quarter on the passenger side, I trust that weld will hold a little better than the factory one, good thing my car isn't t tops I heard bad story's about them. and you are talking about the bar that welds in above the motor for the sub frame connectors right? Right into the top of the two towers?

 

nice I did not know that. I'm not keeping the stock rear end though, gonna get one out of 4th gen.

 

it usually bolts to the strut towers using the 3 bolts already there on each side.
and yes t-top cars with a lot of torque start to have crack issues in those area's I mentioned before

 

LY6 will have rectangular port heads which flow AWESOME for OEM parts. They do not react the same as common cathedral port heads that 80% of LSx cams are ground for. Find a LS3 friendly cam for that engine

Cam and headers will easily bump that engine to the mid 400RWHP. The chassis will hold it fine, but SFCs are a good addition to any 3rd gen at any power level. With the stick, you'll want to take it easy on the rearend

 

Hey thanks, that's all really helpful! You don't think a 4th gen rear would be the best choice for this swap? I don't feel like breaking it just as soon as I get it together haha, I will be running some fairly wide proformance tires on it and should be around mid 400 torque range you wouldn't have any suggestions would you? I'm trying to keep the cost down all I can so I have been looking for used. thanks again for the help

 

Drive it with some sense and the 10 bolt will last. Its a gamble every time you side step the clutch