Which alternator and which plug are you using? I had same issue when I wired mine up like the schematic showed

 

Factory alternator came with 03 4.8. May be 125 amp.. regular 2 wire gray & brown alternator wire

How did you fix the problem on yours?





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Also does anyone think that the location for my transmission lines which are on the left in the red fire/heat sleeve that's routed on the passenger side on side of the block is a bad spot?

The red sleeve on the drivers side is the fuel lines

 

Not as bad as leaving that coolant in your cylinders. Seriously, get that out tonight and get a light coat of oil on the walls.

 

That pic was 2 weeks ago, coolant was removed and cylinder oiled at time. Just was using picture for the clarification on location of lines. Check my update a few post back

 

Phew. I was hoping you'd say that. As long as there is some space between the lines and the headers, and you jacket them in a heat shield, you should be ok.

 

Sorry you are having a problem. You are the first one I've heard of - though, no consolation to you.
Do you have any pics of the pan bracket to trans shift lever set-up?

 

Yes. I talked to Carter over there on the phone earlier. He states I installed it wrong. The shift lever assembly should mount on the inside of the bracket. I mounted it on the outside. I believe I did it that way due to the headers or something interfering with the shift lever I believe.. I dont remember, but I have another cable coming so we'll see once I get it

 

I didn't want my transmission lines anywhere near the headers if I could avoid it. I used a couple of short lengths of -6 to get from the trans to passenger side frame rail. Then along the rail to the cooler. Very accessible and easier for the inevitable transmission swaps.




I've since modified the connection between the AN and the hard lines by adding a tab near the firewall that sort of serves as a bulkhead fitting. Cleaned thing up a little. And the flex lines were replaced from the rubber setup I had initially.

 

Yes I remember that picture of your setup.. very very nice. My transmission lines aren't by the headers, they come up behind the block then to the passenger side engine bay.

Excuse the engine bay it's just a rough in for now

 

Man I’ll look at my alternator wiring tomorrow if I don’t forget again. Been stupid busy working on everything but my car.

 

We try to be experts on interior, body, paint, internal combustion, rear end, brakes, etc. It is inevitable that something needs to be redone. This forum exists to help us learn from each other. No shame at all.
Tell us how the vendor, Shiftworks, is treating you. Can't blame them if they require you to repurchase at full or reduced cost. Is their replacement free of charge? For everyone reading along and may consider them, how are they supporting your purchase? Do you "feel' their support of you as a customer, even if you make a mistake? This kind of feedback is important to the forum!

 

[QUOTE=Billgluckman;6381746]Man I’ll look at my alternator wiring tomorrow if I don’t forget again. Been stupid busy working on everything but my

Its fine. I solved the problem.. alt was dead so I got a 145 amp one and its charging the battery so I'm good now thanks.. on to the next problem for me

 

I just want to say , I am in no way affiliated with Shiftworks.


Carter is one of the managers there I believe. I dealt with him via email then he advised me to call in. I would say customer service was really good, very prompt, informative, and knowledgeable. He sent me additional pictures of cable installs..and explained to me more in depth about the cable.

I had to buy a replacement cable only, because I bought the whole kit the first time around. He gave me a small discount.

I dont blame them for the cable breaking, I'm pretty reasonable and understand that it was installation error. So I ordered another one while we was on the phone. The new cable should be in Wednesday so we'll see how it works.

 

I see that now. I never cared much for how the OEM install was. Once you add headers to that location, just like on the drivers side with the fuel lines, things get pretty toasty.
Which reminds me, once I'm back up and running I'll have to address the heat issue (on the fuel lines) as you have with some wrap.

 

Yea, the transmission lines & fuel lines are wrapped in heat tape, then I found that fire/heat sleeve thing and slid it over it.

I didnt like how the transmission lines looked when I tried to route it under the car, so I came up behind the block with 6an lines....

This is the link to the fire sleeve I used

 

In the industrial electrical world, that is exactly the product we use to wrap our power and control wiring on high heat applications like furnaces and ovens. I will have to remember to get a roll for myself the next time the opportunity arises.
Thanks for the link.

 

No problem. I believe it will work well for application. I also bought some smaller diameter heat sleeve for the starter wiring and any wiring that will be around heat

 

Question.

I took the temperature gauge out the passenger side head and put it in a tee on the top radiator hose so I can route the gauge on the driver's side...

this hole was tapped to 1/4 by a friend beforehand so I can fit the gauge adapter in.. I screwed a 1/4 " npt pipe plug wrapped in teflon tape into that hole to plug it. It seeps very little.. barely makes it to the garage floor..

Do you guys think draining the coolant, taking the pipe plug out and putting jb weld on the threads and around pipe plug would work to stop the seepage?

I'm trying to avoid taking the head off again...

 

DON'T USE TEFLON TAPE.

I hate that sh*t; it NEVER seals correctly. You will always have a seep of whatever fluid you are trying to seal.

Don't use JB Weld, either; you might want to take that plug out again at some point.

Instead, use either Permatex Ultra Black silicone, or liquid teflon.

Those products will seal it right, and no reason to take off the head.

 

X2 on the teflon tape and JB Weld. Both are non-choices for this application. The original non-hardening Permatex Form-a-Gasket Sealant No.2 has been my preferred and dependable cooling system sealer since the '70s.

M

 

Will do thanks

 

Has anyone installed an oil cooler for their ls swap?
what size line and which oil pan adapter fitting are yall using?

I want to install an oil cooler on my stock setup

 

I can't remember seeing a cooler on any swaps in recent memory; if I was to do it, I'd probably go to the junkyard, grab the oil cooler manifold/ lines off of a Silverado, and have some custom hoses made to attach to them. THey'll bolt right on and look factory stock (which is what I like).
Were you planning to go oil-to-air, or oil-to-water?

There are sandwich-style adapters made for these engines, but with our ground clearance, I wouldn't recommend that.

 

Oil to air. I have a trans &power steering cooler, so I would like an oil cooler..

Is it necessary?

 

That depends on how hard you're running the car.

For what it's worth, GM didn't put one on the 4th Gen F-Bodies.

 

Oh ok, I didnt know that the 4th gen bodies didnt come with oil coolers.. good to know.. thanks.

I'll revisit it when I work out the bugs on this car

 

I don't think either of us are going to be pushing our 4.8s hard enough to need one; but I am going to run a power steering and transmission cooler, as well.

 

Update:

So I had a small oil leak coming from oil pan. I didn't read the memo about using the rtv in the back corners beforehand..

Man... what a pain... to get the oil pan off, I had to take transmission back down, unbolt motor and lift engine straight up....

Once I got oil pan off, I cleaned it out, changed the rear seal cover & gasket out again( since I had access to it) re installed that and put rtv permatex black across entire back side and installed everything back...

I also took the pipe plug out the head and applied rtv black to the threads ..

At least so far... no more leaks...

Now, the transmission doesn't want to come out of first automatically, but manually i can go through some gears.. fluid is good and filter was changed

I put her on a scanner that shows live data , and she's not throwing no codes.. tps,maf,map seems to be about right... shes a lil rich due to open headers of course... I'll print some data #s later so you guys can see

I need a break..

Edit: I received the new shift cable and all is working fine except the isolated problem with transmission

 

If it's not shifting automatically, it sounds electronic. Are you sure that the round plug on the passenger side is plugged all the way in?
That will put it into limp mode, and it will stay stuck in one gear.

 

Yea, double checked, its in.

It's not throwing any codes at all..

I'm thinking the valve body

 

Installed (2) new solenoids, filter, new trans pan with drain plug( for decreased aggravation of future pan removals), fluid, and all is the same...

On another note, I got some c5 wheels.17,18.

 

The trans wont shift out of first.. even if I manually shift the gears, it just rides in first..

It seemed ok very first time I drive it but was leaking coolant and trans fluid.. until I resolved both matters..

any suggestions?

 

Is this the same trans that had the pump issue(can’t remember exact problem)?

im no help with this issue, not even gonna pretend lol. I’m not sure what all comes in to play to tell this trans to shift..I’d research that. Fluid pressure, rpm, speed? I did have this issue with a 700r4 and it was a governor problem, I don’t think the 4l60e uses a governor.

 

Yea, same transmission. I'm weighing options including rebuilding myself

 

I unplugged the transmission connector and it does what it suppose to... it goes in limp mode which it automatically drives in third. P,RN also work

My friend even claims to have downshifted to second he believes.

It still only drives in first when connector is plugged in

 

Check your wiring.

 

Update:

I changed the vss sensor in transmission tail, and its shifting now..

I noticed on my scanner when I was doing at least 20-25mph, the vss signal read only 2. So I thought that wasn't right and replaced it with a new AC delco one

 

Ever get it on the road?

 

I drove it around a 4 block radius in the neighborhood numerous times, it runs well, but I think I will fab a transmission crossmember because I wont have much ground clearance with the stock one...

It's the only thing holding me up... after all this hurricane stuff is over I'll get some iron and fab something up...

On the other hand, I have started a 4l60e rebuild just for kicks.. I just have to put it back together

 

That hurricane had our power out until last night night. Also took some shingles off my shop roof. I know nothing about roofing but I guess I gotta learn a little.

I can’t remember what you did for the crossmember, mine is tucked up tight. My exhaust on the other hand will need to be addressed. I kinda just did a quicky on that to get it to where I could test drive it and have 02s hooked up.

 

I just wanted to do a small update..

I decided to rebuild a 4l60e I had attained and all worked out fine... At least so far.. I was going down the street sideways...

The car as far as engine/transmission was already done, but decided to rebuild another transmission to see how it would come out. I added a transgo shift kit in the valvebody and a corvette servo. Stock replacement hard parts, Reybetos frictions & steels.

I still never did my transmission crossmember modification, its next , then to the exhaust shop

 

I know I said I'd get you this information sooner (and it's obviously too late now), but here is the picture of the section of crossmember I cut out on my build:

 

Thanks. I will start working on the spare crossmember I have to modify it.

 

I got around to it today. The pic helped a bunch, plus I measured I just have to get my buddy to weld it up for me. the passenger side looks like the exhaust will be low because it seems like there is no space to work with. see pics below




passenger side

Driver side. Close to shift lever but clears it

 

Update:

So I decided to fab a transmission crossmember.. Not the most attractive, but it works. I practiced a bit being my first time welding.. it works though.. clearance is definitely better..

Also ordered the Holley blackheart ls swap true duals 2.5" 304 version. A very pretty penny but I sold some stuff to come out of pocket less.It shipped out today.

The main reason is for good reviews and compatibility to the 1 7/8 speed engineering headers . Reports are that people are bolting on an going with a minor exhaust hanger mod required at least from one purchasers claims.

The other reasons are when I build my iron ls1 the exhaust wont limit me in the hp/torque area I will be near.

And

Ground clearance. Ground clearance. Ground clearance.

This is the last piece of the puzzle as fir as engine/trans/suspension/exhaust is concerned.. until I build my iron ls1/ built-4l60e combo.

It will just be messing with the interior until then...

 

I applaud you for giving it a whirl. You're ahead of me in that space because you're willing to try.

Your local community college probably offers welding courses. It's a very worthwhile investment.

It's also easy to tack things up and then take it to a welding shop to have them lay real nice welds in a few minutes.

 

I second these comments. I would however do a quick personal audit of some of those welds and grind down a small section in each of the joints to evaluate the penetration where the two surfaces come together. I see a lot of surface bead and I would want to confirm penetration. Even if you grind too much and have to lay another bead down its worth it before something fractures or falls apart once in the car. I ended up selling my 110v gas mig because it just didn't cut the mustard. It was fine for cosmetic stuff but I never trusted it for structural properties. I would tack it into place and take it to a shop with much better equipment and skill. None the less, configuring that is harder than the welds. Good job.

 

Thanks guys. Yea I'm still going over it checking for welds and reinforceing it.

It's a 220 welder , goes up to 200-cutting.. I set it on 125-170, but I am definitely going over it.

I will spend up until Friday going through it. The exhaust suppose to be here Friday

 

Hey gang. It's been a while so I decided to keep the thread alive and update.

I have put 500+ miles on the car and it has been running flawless.

Everything is working fine so far including the 4l60e I rebuilt. Not throwing any codes and engine sounds like a sewing machine.

I drive it on the weekends, weather permitting.
The Holley black heart 2.5 true dual exhaust system is great. Everything fit nicely even with the speed engineering 1 7/8 long tubes. Direct fit- no mods necessary with the exception of fabricating the passenger side exhaust hanger. I want to thank everyone that has read and/or provided input to this thread.

To all of you that are still working on your swap(myself included) or those of you that's ready to quit, just push yourself a little at a time... sometimes a little progress re-invents motivation.

I will post some pics later this week, but up next is the a/c . When I reworked the factory harness, I located and identified all the a/c wires that will be needed to complete the job along with the hard parts of course.

I'll keep you guys posted.