The cap for the heater hose on the radiator is 3/4in (0.75). I just ordered a reinforced silicon cap from ebay and it fit fine. The silicon one was more expensive than just a plain rubber cap (Dorman 493-101) but I expect it to last a lot longer.

 

Kool. What are you guys using for coolant tanks?? I dont have the one that came with the car, and looking at an aftermarket Ebay one 800 ml cylinder shape... is this big enough??

 

I got a 4th gen one and cut a hole out of the battery tray to use. Way cleaner look as it’s under the battery and hangs down below.

 

Yea, I seen both installs, the windshield fluid one and the coolant ... The windshield fluid tank install doesn't interfere with airflow to your radiator?

 

Cmiller that looks good




that’s where mine is, at least for now. That tank can be bought at autozone for like $15. I wanted mine hidden.

 

it’s been okay so far

 

I’ve seen people talk about how it will interfere with air flow and I just can’t see it happening. It would have to be more than those tanks I would think

 

Love how clean that engine bay is! I live in AZ, so I have to have A/C. Without a condenser, you should have plenty of airflow, as long as you have a good fan or fans, with a proper shroud.
DR.K.

 

Im definitely putting a/c in eventually. It’ll clutter things up but I’d rather have the comfort.

 

Youve got me wondering how I’m gonna do mine. You want to try to use factory cluster on yours? I think I’d prefer to.

I read up on the more affordable intellitronix cluster ($400) and i saw more people not happy with it than good reviews. They make adapters to get the factory cable speedo working but they’re expensive too.https://www.ebay.com/itm/333556249199

 

Yea, I wanted to use my existing cluster depending on what id have to do...I kind of saw the reviews for intellitronix.. Honestly, I'm unsure of what I will do at this point... I'm close to being done with this car.. I'm still waiting on the 700r4 cable and shift arm from a friend of a friend to finish up...

That adapter box thing, I've heard good and bad things about it

 

The repro cables are junk - cheap wire and terrible tolerances.
Check out this: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ml#post5790876

 

I personally have a Dakota digital gauge cluster. Pricey but worth it in my opinion. Another option to look into is seeing if there’s a gps speedo adapter and run a gps one.

 

This is a factory piece of a third gen firebird

 

Haha, the good ones are sold out everywhere , I will just get a regular one for now

 

I saw a gps sensor/sender but to go that route I think you’d just need to buy an aftermarket gauge and run it separate.

I’m not completely against dd but they’re too expensive for me unless a deal pops up. Personally I want the old factory gauges so I might end up getting the adapter. Who knows right now

 

Are you a rep for this company? Do you still have this cable installed on your vehicle?

 

The problem is I have two f body 4th gen shift cables but both refuse to snap in place to the shift arm

 

No, not a rep or have any affiliation whatsoever. Shiftworks has a good reputation, so I contacted Herb and convinced him to add this cable to his inventory. I worked with him to get a workable prototype, then he had to figure out the production model.
Yes, I still have this cable on the car and works fine - no problems and I don't even think about it (the way a product should work).
Even old factory pieces are at risk after 30 yrs. New repros are junk. A broken cable can strand you.
American made quality!
Here's a quote from a respected member of our community:

 

I just emailed him to see what they have available. Did you do an ls swap with this cable?

 

Yes, an LS2/4L65e with SW/Hawks LS7 exhaust. I had to relocate the cable bracket on the trans pan to on top of the pan for clearance. Also, modified the bracket/lever on the trans so it would not come in contact with the v-band. Just no room, and you have to be able to make adjustments to fit.
No problems with the cable - it's strong.

 

Yea I have long tubes ... the truck 4l60e shift bracket mounts above the trans pan but it kind of interferes with trans crossmember...

It's just going to suck to pay all that money for a custom cable only to have to fabricate it to work

 

Well, the quality cable is a stand alone issue. New quality or prone to failure - your choice.
Making it all work is part of the swap - new exhaust, new trans, new cross-member, etc. Fitment issues and making it all work have no bearing on the cable by itself. I have 3" y-pipe going through there. You should have more room than me.
That said, if you look at my pics, I have modded the bracket on the trans so I can position it just right (multiple holes to use). You should not have interference with the trans cross-member - that's at the back of the pan. I did the swap 8-9 years ago. There might be more products to choose from since (brackets, levers) in order to position everything correctly.
You should also know if you have a long range shaft or a short range shaft.
Shiftworks does have levers: https://shiftworks.com/collections/c...age-fix-it-kit
https://shiftworks.com/pages/4le-series-trans-guide
Pics if you have them?

 

For what it’s worth, I’m using an aftermarket/factory replacement 3rd gen cable, I’m pretty sure I used the 3rd gen bracket, and a shift lever from an 85 camaro 6 cyl car



I’m going off memory but I’m thinking the factor cable and lever connects with a pop on type deal? I had to modify that but it works great. Before using this lever I couldn’t get to all the gears. With this lever you can adjust.

 

While I settle on the trans shift cable... I began working the electrical..

I am doing these electric fans relays...


my question is , I see I feed 30 with #10 wire on a 20 amp fuse, but do I tie 30 & 87a together??

 

No, you don't tie 30 and 87a together; I don't know why he did it that way.

 

Ok. What does 87a go to? I guess it's not used... sorry for over analyzing... first rodeo with relays in general

 

87a has contact with 30 when the relay IS NOT energized; once the relay is powered up, 30 makes contact with 87, and BREAKS contact with 87a.
There are some applications where this is necessary (Ex: The GM three relay fan setup like I'm using), but about 95% of the time in the automotive world four terminals are all you need.

 

I got ya. They have leads coming out all 5 terminals including 87a. I will just put a wire nut on it

 

Looks good. Where did you buy that cold air intake from?Part numbers?

 

I ordered a shiftworks trans cable. Hopefully I can get it by this weekend.

Also, if anyone wants to know, a throttle cable of an 90s s10 is a perfect fit... originally I had got a 95 silverado throttle cable which was a lil too long.. it opened the throttle about half way... I thought about the s10 and it's a direct swap

 

How did you guys hook your tcc brake switch up?? I'm using a psi ls swap tcc brake switch

 

This is the intake I used, but you can do the same with a slightly cheaper eBay intake. The only reason I used amazon is because I had a gift card and a credit that that made this a $6 purchase, and I want black instead of chrome.

Basically just buy this style intake for a 4.8/5.3 truck and flip the pipe around. I had to make a bracket to support it. If you look at my project thread I have pics of how I made the support bracket.

DNA MOTORING Black CAI-950021-BKBK Cold Air Intake Pipe+Heat Shield System [for 02-06 Cadillac Escalade ESV EXT]

 

Kool. I just ordered the same one from ebay... did you hook your brake switch tcc wires yet?? I have a post above about it

 

I saw the question but I honestly can?t remember what I did but I?m thinking I just wired it to the brake signal wire. I may be wrong, I?d have to look or look through and see if I made notes.

 

Yea, I know I connect the purple and pink wires on the new brake switch to the tcc wire off the ls harness, and the pink wires go to switched 12 volt power.

The disconnect for me is the other orginal connector from the car contains 2 blue wires and orange(hot wire) from 86 camaro fuseblock... it states a white wire that I connect too but dont see it

 

That looks like the Monte Carlo brake switch I'm using. One side is for the brake lights (duh), and the other side will be getting power from one of the fuses I'm not using anymore, and the other wire will be going to the pcm.

I don't think you will be using those other wires; at least I'm not.

What kind of cruise control are you going to use?

 

I'm not using cruise control .. Im just trying to figure out the brake lights with this switch

 

I have a question I hope you guys can help me with on o2 connector swaps..



I have the case grounded flat 4 pin connectors on my harness I reworked.

I have purchased the Denso 243-4025 oxygen sensors which have the black 4 pin square isolated ground connectors.( I heard these work well for ls swaps)

If I swap the flat connectors for the square connectors that I need to plug into the o2 sensors, I'm left with a ground wire from the 4 pin flat connector, and the low heater control brown wire on the black square 4 pin isolated ground connector..

Do I tie these together and it will work normal even though the square 4 pin isolated ground connector is not a case grounded connector?

 

This is what i found http://92b4crs.tripod.com/86wiring/86wiringindex.html

 

Well, think about it like this: One set of contacts is normally open, the other normally closed.

If you put it on the wrong one, your brake lights will be ON when not pressing the pedal, and they will go off when you step on the pedal.
If that's the case, just put it on the other set of terminals.

It's not like the car is going to blow up if you get it wrong.

 

Fair enough.. can you help me with the o2 question above

 

Which PCM are you using? That's going to make a difference.

http://lt1swap.com/vortec_o2_sensors.htm

 

I looked at that. I'm a bit confused. I'm using the red and blue harness

 

Are you guys using the trans range switch off of the truck 4l60e? Is it truly needed?

 

I am, but not all the wires are used.
It's not completely necessary, and a lot of guys don't use it, but it will help with idle speed adjustment when switching from park to gear.
If you're wiring it up from scratch, you might as well use.

 

Which wires have you hooked up to make yours work?

I have connected

Trans range switch signal A,B,C,P , & ground signal so far

 

I've got the same ones hooked up, in addition, I'm pretty sure that I tied the pink wire on the 11pin to the transmission solenoid power supply.
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find out where some of those wires go; I have access to Mitchell Prodemand, which has some pretty good wiring diagrams, but some of the ones for the range switch aren't explained.
For example, I can see where all of the wires going to the PCM from the range switch go, but the two Ignition voltage inputs (pins 11 and 12) aren't shown.

I'm not using the clutch start switch wire (Dark Green, pin 1).

One thing I can tell you for sure, is that you WILL NOT be using the reverse light wiring in the LS transmission range sensor (unless you like doing things the hard way...).

Reverse light wiring on these cars (autos, anyway) is all inside the cab.
Manual cars (with a T5, at least) had the switch on the body of the transmission.

If anyone out there has any information about this, please let us know!

 

You must be using the later trans range plug like I am.. does your trans switch function properly by changing idle at park, drive and not letting you start it up in gear?

 

Yup, I'm using the later oval connector with the pull-lock on it.
After doing a little research, I found out about the range sensor details we were looking for.

You and I will only be using the wires going to the PCM, and the ground. That stuff tells the PCM what position the shifter is in, thereby changing idle speed.

The following wires will not be used: 1 - Clutch start, 9 - PNP signal, 10 - Backup lamps, 11 - Ign. voltage, and 12 - Ign. Voltage.

As mentioned before, you won't be using this switch for reverse lights (unless you want to do things the hard way).
Clutch start, PNP signal, and power input #12 are all for neutral-safety starting. Once again, that stuff is handled by your factory shifter.

I didn't figure this out on my own; you can thank the guy who made this slick diagram on one of the classic truck boards:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...92&postcount=8