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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Yup, I'm using the later oval connector with the pull-lock on it.
After doing a little research, I found out about the range sensor details we were looking for.
You and I will only be using the wires going to the PCM, and the ground. That stuff tells the PCM what position the shifter is in, thereby changing idle speed.
The following wires will not be used: 1 - Clutch start, 9 - PNP signal, 10 - Backup lamps, 11 - Ign. voltage, and 12 - Ign. Voltage.
As mentioned before, you won't be using this switch for reverse lights (unless you want to do things the hard way).
Clutch start, PNP signal, and power input #12 are all for neutral-safety starting. Once again, that stuff is handled by your factory shifter.
I didn't figure this out on my own; you can thank the guy who made this slick diagram on one of the classic truck boards:
Well, I got to finish up and drive it. Everything works as it should including the transmission, rides well...but I'm leaking a nice amount of coolant somewhere on the middle of the engine. Its leaking down on oil pan..No visible leaks on top of engine at all...
Unbolt from trans crossmember and jack up the trans. Moves the heads quite a bit further away from the firewall
Kool. I don't know if I installed the head gaskets wrong or the heads are bad... I have some 243 heads that tested good from a machine shop I can use if needed
I know that some of the early LS heads were known as "notch heads, because they had a notch cast into the deck by cylinders 3 and 6.
If you use the wrong gaskets with those (or maybe it's if you use notch gaskets with un-notched heads... I forget.), you will end up with a small coolant leak that will never go away.
You should pick up good power with 243 heads over the 862 anyway. I’d swap to them if you already have to pull one of the heads!
Ehhh, I wouldn't bet on that with a 4.8.
243s have larger chambers, so he's going to see a loss in compression. The 243s have larger intake valves, but that's going to reduce his intake port velocity at lower RPMs with an engine that small.
There are lots of guys on LS1tech ditching the 243/799 heads for 706/862s for street builds because of the boost in compression and torque.
If he had a 5.3, it might be worth it, but I think it will be a loss on a 4.8.
EDIT: Upon reviewing the pictures again, it kinda looks like you have the notched heads; which cylinders did you take these pictures on?
If you have notch heads, you either have to use graphite head gaskets, or get special MLS gaskets that have a notch.
I'm using graphite gaskets with my 862s; I didn't even know about the problem at the time, I just ordered a gasket set for a 2002 Camaro so I could get the O-ring intake gaskets.
Last edited by dixiebandit69; Jun 8, 2020 at 07:43 PM.
I know that some of the early LS heads were known as "notch heads, because they had a notch cast into the deck by cylinders 3 and 6.
If you use the wrong gaskets with those (or maybe it's if you use notch gaskets with un-notched heads... I forget.), you will end up with a small coolant leak that will never go away.
Let's hope it's something else.
Originally Posted by cmiller2014
You should pick up good power with 243 heads over the 862 anyway. I’d swap to them if you already have to pull one of the heads!
They were MLS from rock auto... naw.. they were leaking pretty bad on both sides...
The only thing about the 243s is it will lower my compression and might need to reflash my ecm
I have another set of 706 heads that I dont know if they are good or not. The 243's I pulled of a ls4 I bought to get pressure tested and checked all came back good..
I just called the machine shop to see how much they will charge to mill the 243 heads down to 61cc to match compression of 706/862 heads of 9:4:1..
They want $80 per head totaling about $180ish with tax
Being the the 243 flow better with bigger valves , would it be worth it to do this and put these heads on the engine? Estimated performance gains?
Would I really need it tuned for the new heads?
Last edited by 86iroc504; Jun 9, 2020 at 11:28 AM.
Pulling heads in one these cars looks pretty easy compared to a lot of the more modern stuff I’ve been working on lately where they tuck the engine back under the cowl. Still would hate to do it on an engine I just installed.
Pulling heads in one these cars looks pretty easy compared to a lot of the more modern stuff I’ve been working on lately where they tuck the engine back under the cowl. Still would hate to do it on an engine I just installed.
I looked on top of the steam lines and I didnt see any trace of leaking down. When I went under the car, that's when I saw the leak in the heads. I wiped the coolant off with towel and it re-formed and ran to the back due to engine on incline.
I'll take the intake off and have a closer look though
Edit: hell naw I dont want to go back in this engine but it's a problem somewhere
Last edited by 86iroc504; Jun 9, 2020 at 11:59 AM.
Ehhh, I wouldn't bet on that with a 4.8.
243s have larger chambers, so he's going to see a loss in compression. The 243s have larger intake valves, but that's going to reduce his intake port velocity at lower RPMs with an engine that small.
There are lots of guys on LS1tech ditching the 243/799 heads for 706/862s for street builds because of the boost in compression and torque.
If he had a 5.3, it might be worth it, but I think it will be a loss on a 4.8.
EDIT: Upon reviewing the pictures again, it kinda looks like you have the notched heads; which cylinders did you take these pictures on?
If you have notch heads, you either have to use graphite head gaskets, or get special MLS gaskets that have a notch.
I'm using graphite gaskets with my 862s; I didn't even know about the problem at the time, I just ordered a gasket set for a 2002 Camaro so I could get the O-ring intake gaskets.
I just re-read your post and also seen your edit, so I see your response about the 243s.
It was leaking on the back cylinders between #6-8, and 5-7.
Yeah its leaking when the car is not running, so obviously there's a problem somewhere...
I've never heard of the notch heads, it's all new to me.. I thought besides the material, they were all the same for 4.8, 5.3 gen 3...
You remember where you got your gasket from with the part number?
I have another set of 706 heads that I dont know if they are good or not. The 243's I pulled of a ls4 I bought to get pressure tested and checked all came back good..
I just called the machine shop to see how much they will charge to mill the 243 heads down to 61cc to match compression of 706/862 heads of 9:4:1..
They want $80 per head totaling about $180ish with tax
Being the the 243 flow better with bigger valves , would it be worth it to do this and put these heads on the engine? Estimated performance gains?
Would I really need it tuned for the new heads?
You won't need a tune for the new heads, but even if you spent the money and had them milled, I don't think you'd see much, if any, improvement.
Since it looks like you're going to be taking the heads off anyway, just use a Graphite gasket for a 2002 Camaro.
You won't need a tune for the new heads, but even if you spent the money and had them milled, I don't think you'd see much, if any, improvement.
Since it looks like you're going to be taking the heads off anyway, just use a Graphite gasket for a 2002 Camaro.
I used a FelPro gasket set from Rockauto.
Ok kool. Yep, I posted a pic of the heads on ls1 tech and I think I do have the notch heads. I can see it on the passenger side but cant see it on driver side.. but I found a pic I posted that shows a notch... and I definitely bought a gasket kit for a 2003 assuming the heads were all built the same...
Ok kool. Yep, I posted a pic of the heads on ls1 tech and I think I do have the notch heads. I can see it on the passenger side but cant see it on driver side.
Well, now the mystery is solved; glad that didn't take too long. Just get some graphite gaskets and slap the 862s back on.
I know that a lot of people don't like graphite head gaskets, but that's what I started off using in the '90s, and they have always worked for me.
You could still reuse your headbolts, too; they haven't been on for very long.
Instead of the angle method, just torque them in a three steps: 25-45-65 ft. lbs..
Well, now the mystery is solved; glad that didn't take too long. Just get some graphite gaskets and slap the 862s back on.
I know that a lot of people don't like graphite head gaskets, but that's what I started off using in the '90s, and they have always worked for me.
You could still reuse your headbolts, too; they haven't been on for very long.
Instead of the angle method, just torque them in a three steps: 25-45-65 ft. lbs..
Got both sides off.. do you guys think that coolant spilled in the cylinder when I took the heads off?? I drained as much as I could before I took heads off..
EDIT: Get all of that stuff out of the cylinders before they rust.
This. Dont wait and if you can get a film of oil on the exposed cylinder walls. I would turn the engine over a few times too. I've seen rings rust below the surface from coolant that sat too long.
Yeah, it got in the cylinders when you pulled the heads. Most engines (especially V-type engines) will do that even after you drain the radiator.
EDIT: Get all of that stuff out of the cylinders before they rust.
Originally Posted by ShiftyCapone
This. Dont wait and if you can get a film of oil on the exposed cylinder walls. I would turn the engine over a few times too. I've seen rings rust below the surface from coolant that sat too long.
I got it off, put some oil on a rag and wiped each cylinder around, then spray wd40 lubricant in each cylinder. Hows that? I'll rotate it tomorrow
Is that damage all on the same cylinder?
How did those "blemishes" happen?
That looks like some stuff that would compromise cylinder sealing in the long run.
I still think you should stick with the 862 heads, just get them decked.
I decked mine .020" with no interference issues.
Is that damage all on the same cylinder?
How did those "blemishes" happen?
That looks like some stuff that would compromise cylinder sealing in the long run.
I still think you should stick with the 862 heads, just get them decked.
I decked mine .020" with no interference issues.
I dunno how it happened.. I think it was already there.. I'll drop the 862s off at the machine shop today
Is that damage all on the same cylinder?
How did those "blemishes" happen?
That looks like some stuff that would compromise cylinder sealing in the long run.
I still think you should stick with the 862 heads, just get them decked.
I decked mine .020" with no interference issues.
Dropped them off at machine shop.. showed it to them.. it's only by one cylinder, he said it's bad but he can fix it... both heads probably be milled between .020 - .030 which would still be safe he says.. should be done about Tuesday..
Dropped them off at machine shop.. showed it to them.. it's only by one cylinder, he said it's bad but he can fix it... both heads probably be milled between .020 - .030 which would still be safe he says.. should be done about Tuesday..
I drained the oil to make sure it wasn't milky. No coolant in oil, but oil is kind of dark to say I changed it with the filter few weeks ago
Machine shop should be calling soon. I'm curious though... if he had to take them to .030 to resurface them, my gasket is .05, would I need new pushrods?
Machine shop should be calling soon. I'm curious though... if he had to take them to .030 to resurface them, my gasket is .05, would I need new pushrods?
What lifters are you running? You should always measure for pushrod length. The OEM lifters have a wide preload range so guys are usually ok when they deck heads. However, if you are running short travel aftermarket lifters you'll need to measure at each valve. I have 14 different pushrod lengths in my motor.
What lifters are you running? You should always measure for pushrod length. The OEM lifters have a wide preload range so guys are usually ok when they deck heads. However, if you are running short travel aftermarket lifters you'll need to measure at each valve. I have 14 different pushrod lengths in my motor.
Lifters are stock as everything else except the ls6 valve springs
Installed the new gaskets, added coolant , changed oil,oil filter , finally got the heads back from machine shop that were resurfaced... took of .005.. used same pushrods.. and no leaks... at least so far.. I'm plugged the hole in the head and ran a radiator adapter for my coolant gauge...
My shiftworks trans shift cable worked great a few times, then it wouldn't shift the gears.. did everything I could.. i.e. adjusted bulkheads... it seems the outer rod dislocated from the inner cable..so I emailed tech support for a resolution
I got to drive it around the corner, my 160 stat is working fine, stays cool, ecu operated fans working correctly... all is good. Just waiting on the shift cable problem then I will clean up the engine bay wiring, and it's going to the exhaust shop..
My alternator is not charging battery... battery reads 11- 12.5 volts
Also, Any ideas on mufflers?
Last edited by 86iroc504; Jun 27, 2020 at 09:55 PM.
