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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
I think you'll find the braided line comes in -4 and -6. Which is 1/4" and 3/8" respectively. I exited the transmission with a -6 (fittings readily available although I don't have the PN's handy) and landed on the frame rail. From there a -6 to 5/16th" tube nut adapter and steel line to the cooler.
Whether or not you go to the frame or the more conventional route, the adapter is what you're after if you want hard lines at some point.
The only thing close I can find is
Brake Line Adapter for 5/16" Tube, (Female) Inverted Flare, 1/2-20 to (Male) 1/8"
There are a few choices to take you from a -6AN line that you've prepped and put a suitable fitting on and one of these adapters.
Typically, I'll put a female end on the -6AN line and connect it to a -6AN male adapter. The adapter then fits on your 5/16" hard line.
Yea, we went through all the gears also. It's doing the same thing.. I don't know if it normal but when I rotate the converter back and forth the tail shaft only moves clockwise
Does anyone know what size bellhousing torx bit I need to get the bellhousing off? We can see metal peices in the pump shaft.. I'm trying to take this thing off
We got the pump off without taking bellhousing off.. and the pump is trashed.. I received it like this.
My father said he would just replace the pump and go with it.. He did some other test with the gears and things without tearing transmission down and feel comfortable just replacing pump. No signs of wear on drum, and no metal in oil pan..
He was concerned about the color of the drum but we saw no grinding of metal or signs of wear
I don't know anything about auto transmissions but it seems that maybe the output shaft cannot rotate unless the clutch packs are engaged by the hydraulics.
The input shaft does not turn by hand but I can turn it with a pair of pliers in both directions.
On an automatic, the output shaft will only turn if there is hydraulic pressure in the clutch pack.
Just spinning the torque converter by hand on the bench won't do it.
This is one of MANY things that I don't like about rebuilding automatics: You don't know if something is wrong until it's already installed in the car.
Believe me, I've found this out the hard way before.
As pointed out above, there has to hydraulic pressure so as to engage the clutches/bands. Bench builders will use compressed air to test for proper sealing of the various hydraulic circuits. This ensures reliability with the final assembled product. Back in my tech school college days we had a transmission dyno for spinning up our rebuilt transmissions.
Educational video link attached.
As pointed out above, there has to hydraulic pressure so as to engage the clutches/bands. Bench builders will use compressed air to test for proper sealing of the various hydraulic circuits. This ensures reliability with the final assembled product. Back in my tech school college days we had a transmission dyno for spinning up our rebuilt transmissions.
Educational video link attached. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sY7HrJ4rpxg
Originally Posted by dixiebandit69
On an automatic, the output shaft will only turn if there is hydraulic pressure in the clutch pack.
Just spinning the torque converter by hand on the bench won't do it.
This is one of MANY things that I don't like about rebuilding automatics: You don't know if something is wrong until it's already installed in the car.
Believe me, I've found this out the hard way before.
Originally Posted by QwkTrip
I don't know anything about auto transmissions but it seems that maybe the output shaft cannot rotate unless the clutch packs are engaged by the hydraulics.
I like the trans lines fittings. Same as mine. The adapter to the threads in the trans case makes it confusing when trying to gather parts though. The case threads are unique and some miss that.
I like the trans lines fittings. Same as mine. The adapter to the threads in the trans case makes it confusing when trying to gather parts though. The case threads are unique and some miss that.
Yea it looks better to me. Yea gathering parts can be confusing... I think the ones that screw into the transfer case are 1/4 nms threads or something like that
I will go quick connect fitting to -6an fittings on the rail stainless steel braided lines all the way to the sending unit metal lines with a fuel filter in between..
When I get to the hard lines for the fuel sender.. I was thinking about making a flare there like someone her stated.. I know the 3/8 hard line would accept -6an but what about the 5/16 accepting -6an.. According to the chart it should be a -6an fitting for 5/16... I've never seen a -5an fitting...
I'm going to use hard nylon fuel lines from the frame to the engine, and from the tank to the fuel filter (I'm using a Corvette fuel filter.).
I think the nylon lines will provide a safe, clean, factory look (I don't like the way that AN lines look; sue me.). I'm using some Dorman fittings to adapt to the factory flare fittings, and some plastic push-lock fittings to connect to the fuel rail and filter.
Did you keep your stock tank or did you swap in the 99-02 plastic tank?
Originally Posted by dixiebandit69
What tank are you running again?
I'm using the factory V6 lines under the car.
I'm going to use hard nylon fuel lines from the frame to the engine, and from the tank to the fuel filter (I'm using a Corvette fuel filter.).
I think the nylon lines will provide a safe, clean, factory look (I don't like the way that AN lines look; sue me.). I'm using some Dorman fittings to adapt to the factory flare fittings, and some plastic push-lock fittings to connect to the fuel rail and filter.
I'm running the stock tank.
My factory hard fuel lines under the car has a lil rust on it.. I dont want to take a chance
Oh ok kool. Just asking I wouldn't be able to just hose clamp to the hard fuel sending lines would I?
I guess you could; I've used hose clamps on higher PSI systems with success, but I don't think it's the best way to do things.
If your factory lines only have "a lil rust*," and aren't leaking, I'd try running with them.
Worst case scenario: It starts up in your garage and you find a leak.
Then you have to replace the line, which you were about to do anyway.
*Exactly how much is "a lil rust?"
I'm not giving you sh*t, I'm from Texas, and I use "lil" all the time.
Is it just surface rust, or did the car come from some place where they salt the roads?
I guess you could; I've used hose clamps on higher PSI systems with success, but I don't think it's the best way to do things.
If your factory lines only have "a lil rust*," and aren't leaking, I'd try running with them.
Worst case scenario: It starts up in your garage and you find a leak.
Then you have to replace the line, which you were about to do anyway.
*Exactly how much is "a lil rust?"
I'm not giving you sh*t, I'm from Texas, and I use "lil" all the time.
Is it just surface rust, or did the car come from some place where they salt the roads?
Cars been sitting outside central Louisiana for like 12 years.. not as bad as one would think though...it may be surface rust... I just wanted to do this one time
I'd also encourage you to run stock lines. Even if they have a little surface rust it's still your best bet. At the end of the day, braided steel line is still rubber house wrapped in shiny stuff. I used my stock line up to engine bay and ran braided line off an adapter. You can unscrew the hose in the engine bay and use Russel part number 644123. Super easy that way to run a short braided line from stock hose to LS fuel rail without having to cut anything.
