Hello,

So I decided to get an LS6 intake to replace my LS1 intake, and I also decided that I am going to switch out my truck 206/212 112+0 camshaft for a custom grind from cammotion. I submitted my form and the rep came back with two options for me. Now to choose between the two. I will be using a 4L60e and 3.42 rear gears. I plan to drive the car in nice weather as a weekend driver, but I also would like to take it to the strip and try it out on a race course here and there. I haven't decided on my T/C yet, which is why there is two options. Here they are:

"I have looked this over and came up with 2 different options for this build. I will start by saying the current springs are fine and putting more than 550 lift in this would not be beneficial.

Option 1:
Moderate idle, work well with 2500-2800 stall and make great torque but likely start falling off after 6000-6200 RPM
215/219 duration @ .050''
109.5 lobe separation, 107.5 intake centerline (109.5+2)
.553''/.553'' lift with 1.7 rockers

Option 2:
Slight lope to idle, work well with 2800-3200 stall and will make more power at the cost of moving the rpm range higher. Pull strong to 6400-6500 RPM
220/224 duration @ .050''
110 lobe separation, 107.5 intake centerline (110+2.5)
.553''/.553'' lift with 1.7 rockers"

Thanks!

(Also posted to LS1Tech.)

 

Cam #1. It will have more usable power under the curve and should not give up much, if anything, down low. It also has negative overlap (-2 degrees) and will idle similar to stock. A small cam goes a long way in the 4.8. If the engine were bigger I'd go with cam #2.

 

Shifty,

That actually makes alot of sense. I did alot of reading yesterday, and articles suggest to focus on a larger amount of power under the curve for street/racing, whereas drag racing applications usually put power all in a very small high RPM band. I think it should still be pretty fun at the strip!

 

Correct. I saw you briefly mentioned a 5.3 before editing and I would stay away from that. Its not worth the money you will need to put into it. You'd only have a slightly better version of what you already have. Save the money for something with a 4" bore.

 

Again, you are right, it's hard to stay away from the grip of wanting more power.

Any suggestions for brand of T/C, while we are on the topic? I saw that Monster Transmission has a 2600-2800 stall for $325.

 

I would stay away from Monster. I've had good luck with FTI, Yank and PTC. Like most things you get what you pay for in a torque converter, I would get the best you can fit into your budget. You don't need something super high end or race oreinted but I would get something of good quality that will be trouble free. FTI has an economy series for around $500 that is pretty good.

 

Hello jbenge! Thank you for the info. Sounds like a plan.

I also figured out a good goal for my car. I would like to end up making about 350 RWHP. It would make the HP/Weight ratio pretty similar to what current muscle cars get. What is the most cost efficient way to get there? Any more power, and I think that my 245/50r16's would struggle to keep traction. Then I would have to give up my IROC rims for something else, and I am not overly keen about that. I have thought about it a bit, and I don't think I would mind selling my 4.8 and getting the correct powerplant to get me to my goal the first time around. I have alot of other parts of my resto-mod to work on until I can actually get around to put the motor in, so I am in no rush honestly.

 

350 RWHP is pretty easy these days. When the 2002 LS1 in my car was close to stock it made 340 RWHP on a dyno jet dyno and ran mid 12's at the track. It had 1 3/4 LT headers, stock LS6 intake, stock 241 heads, stock cam, tune, 2004 GTO cold air intake, 3.5 single exhaust. A small cam, LT headers, decent exhaust system in an otherwise stock 5.7 or 6.0 LS engine will get you where you want to be easily with stock drivability.

 

Well, after listing out estimate prices and researching power levels of the different LS motors, I've decided the best thing to do at this point is build up a 6.0. I plan to start with a basic LQ4 and likely up the compression and alongside a mild-ish camshaft, it will be able to make much better power than my 4.8. The problem with my 4.8, as you are all aware, is that I would have to spend alot of money to get to my goal. I can build up an LQ4 with similar amounts of money and meet my power level goals while still being able to use either a stock or mild converter.

Thank you all for the tips and help, guys!

 

See if you can find an LQ9 out of an escalade and or Denali. It is a touch more compression but is basically the same LQ4. In stock trim with headers you should already be around 350rwhp. A small cam and tune will bring it near 375 to 400. Cost wise this is very doable. Sell the 4.8 for a few hundred to cover the costs of an LQ9. Do you have any pull your own part yards or LKQ lots? I still see LQ9's pop up and you'll pay their generic catalog price vs specific engine price at most yards/ebay.

 

Good choice. It will blow away the 4.8L.

Easiest way to increase compression is a head swap to the 243 casting.

 

Good point there. Well, I have kept my eye open for an LQ9 for a few weeks. I finally found one that seems a good deal. We don't have LKQ here, only a local pick n pull. Escalades are rare. Anyway, I found a LQ9 that is tested, running and warrantied for 1300, but they said they would take $1200. That's through B&R auto wrecking, so it's already pulled and ready to go. Is that a pretty good deal?

 

If I end up with an LQ4 that's definitely what I will do! Thanks!

 

Hello,

I ended up buying a 6.0 today, from a wrecking yard that was pretty close. Picked it up and the exterior looked perfect. Spent $650 and they told me it is a rebuildable core.

Well, I ran it home and put it on the stand. And then I tried turning it by hand. It moved, then got stuck. Uh-oh... So I decided to remove the heads, and that's when I noticed that cylinder 7 and 8 were both free moving in the bore. Removed the oil pan, and there were chunks of rod everywhere. Boo. I removed 7 and 8 out of the bore, and removed the rods from the crank.

So here's the deal.. Cylinder 7 is nearly perfect. A hone and it would be fine. The issue cylinder is 8. It had a part of it's rod thrown into the side of the bore and has some other nicks and marks in the cylinder. I am pretty sure that the nicks and marks can be bored and honed and be fine. My question is about the chunk taken from the cylinder. It's down at the very bottom. What I noticed is that the top of the missing piece is about 1/8" below the sealing part of the bore. So the lower sealing ring doesn't go that low. Do you think that bit can be machined down, bored out and honed?

The crankshaft bearing surfaces of 7 and 8 are perfect, the only issue is that the crank had some of the bits and pieces nick the counterweights, but not too bad at all. And then I was actually able to spin the motor over by hand after I removed both of the problem pistons. It spins very smooth and all but cylinder 8 are beautiful and smooth still with crosshatching. Feeling a bit dumb for this purchase, so I am hoping to save what I can.

What do you guys think? Bore and reuse, or is my block trash?

Thanks all!

 

Oof. So no warranty on that? $650 is a lot for a "junk motor". Machining alone is going to cost you $1k plus. New internals just as much (no point rebuilding without forged guts). Take the block to a shop, who has ls experience, and let them tell you if it can be saved. Might be worth selling off the good parts and buying another core, that comes with a warranty .

 

No warranty.. Okay, I will contact the engine machine shop down the road and see what they say. I will call and ask them about a partial refund or something, because this definitely isn't my definition of rebuildable.

 

Well, I called them back, and the salesman said he is going to find me a short block to replace my busted one! He has a friend with three motors that they are going to look at. He said it would also be a core, but it would be one that actually turns over and is rebuildable. My plan was to build up a fresh motor with new bearings and whatnot, which is why I went for a core in the first place. Super happy about this, makes me feel a whole lot better!

 

Just wanted to give an update: I was able to pick up my replacement short block today. They told me just to keep the first 6.0 for parts, which is pretty cool of them. It's a very sludgy motor, but I'm able to turn the engine by hand by rotating the balancer. Still has light crosshatching in the cylinders. And no broken rods this time! My next step is talking to the local machine shop and getting it cleaned up. I think I am going to end up putting in some flat top cylinders as opposed to 243/799 heads since I am rebuilding the engine, anyway.

I also spoke to CamMotion about a camshaft for the 6L, and they recommended the Titan 4 with a higher stall, or the Titan 2 with something like a trailblazer stall.

 

Good to hear about the new engine. The 243's are better with the stock pistons then with the 317's on flattops. They flow similar but the 243/799 chamber design is so much more efficient than its bigger 317 brother.

 

Oh, that makes sense! And then the PTV clearance also stays the same, because you still have the dished pistons. That means I could get away with more lift, if it's of any actual benefit to the 6.0. That sound like the best way to go then. Thanks for the tip.

 

You still need to check. The chambers are much smaller but still plenty of room for cam selection. The LS2 came with flattops and these heads. So, your cam choices are infinite.

 

Very true. I could also install some flat tops in it since I am rebuilding it and just make an iron LS2. Although I might be plenty happy with just the 243 heads, as that should put me up to about 10.3:1. I was able to get a pair of 243's for $300, so not too bad.

I'm currently working on my camshaft choices. Stuck between the Titan 2 and 4. With the 2 I would only need a TB stall, and with the 4 I would likely get a Circle D 26-2800. However, the 4 likes headers and better supporting mods. I currently have the better fourth gen manifolds, simply because I would like to use cats to cut down on exhaust smell. But if I wanted to do the 4, it would respond better to headers and I'd probably need to switch out my 28.8 lb. injectors. And then I'd also heard that you can't fit cats with headers by a 4l60e. Is this all correct?

Yikes, it almost sounds like using a T56 yields better pathways here.