There is a lot of confusion when it comes to front accessories during your LS swap. With the many different versions that GM has produced over the years, combined with fancy aftermarket solutions, it can become a little overwhelming. In this thread I am going to break down the various GM set-ups so that one can piece meal a kit together and or know what to search for when buying. I will eventually get into some of the aftermarket stuff but that is likely a smaller portion of the LS swap population. Just like any other custom adaptation there are details that matter when selecting your FEAD (Front Engine Accessory Drive). Namely, a set-up that works for one person, might not work for the next. Things such as K-Member, throttle body and water pump outlets can all affect how things "fit". To complicate things further, adding AC can leave you scratching your head on how to get everything to work.

When it comes time to select a few factors will need to be addressed.

What K-member:
Adaptation of your FEAD will depend on whether you are running an aftermarket k-member or a stock unit. All aftermarket tubular units free up engine bay space, however, they don't always play nice. Meaning, some claim you can run a low mount AC unit with a certain FEAD setup, as do others, but they don't explain that this isn't true if you plan on using the stock triangular K-member braces. For some that doesn't matter, for me it does. If you do run the braces, you are likely going to have to turn to an aftermarket bracket system. Many folks opt to keep the factory K-member and choose to create a pocket/cutout in the unit so that a low mount AC compressor will clear. Many fabricate their own, but Hawks sells a nice kit to take some of the guess work out of it.

Hood Clearance:

Hood clearance is another item that may limit your selections. The truck and blower (LSA, LS9) FED systems are much taller than the OEM 3rd gen set-up. If you have a firebird, those problems are only exacerbated. For this reason, Most folks ditch and or reconfigure (easier to relocate left and right than up and down) the truck accessories. The best FEAD systems for height are the CTSV, 4th gen , and Vette setups.

Throttle Body Selection:

Cable driven throttle bodies don't infringe on on the accessories (namely the water pump) like drive by wire (DBW) units. The large solenoid on the side of the LS3/LS7 and LS2 throttle bodies takes up valuable real-estate and limits water pump selections. GM has many different pumps that can work within the same FEAD set-up. The difference being the outlet at the top of the pump. Depending on what radiator you are using, may want your output to be on the left or right side of the throttle body. I "think" the LS3/LS7 90mm unit can be flipped 180 degrees and still functional properly.



Hawks Patch kit: HT-LS1ACPLATE

Getting Started:

Whether you are building your combo from scratch or installing a core from a wrecker you will need to know what FEAD spacing you have or want. GM uses three different spacing groups that each encompass various vehicle specific configurations. Below is an image that shows how to determine what spacing configuration you have and or want. The image is a side view of the engine focusing on the front engine timing cover and harmonic balancer. Placing a straight edge across the balancer and measuring the depth from the straight edge to the surface of the front engine timing cover will let you know what spacing you have. If you are building from scratch, the chart will show you the spacing each GM platforms was built with.




Measurement Reference: Courtesy of Kwik Performance

 

Back when LS swaps started to emerge the 4th gen FEAD system was the most popular. When combined with a notched K-member and or an aftermarket k-member sans triangle braces, this is a great fitting set-up. I don't have a dimensional schematic of this (anyone have one?) but here are the basic components that make up the FEAD systems for the 4th gen LS1 cars as well as the C5 LS1 cars.

4th Gen F-Body LS1 Parts List





C5 LS1/LS6 FEAD Parts List

 

LS3/LS7 FEAD Parts List

 

LSA FEAD Parts List



LSA FEAD Parts List (Modified Configuration)


LS9 FEAD Parts List

 

LC9 FEAD (Gen IV 5.3 Truck) Parts List

 

CTS-V FEAD Parts List (Gen 1 CTSV, LS6 & LS2)

 

I will keep refining and updating this over the next couple of days. Likewise I will see if there is a way I can post the charts without them being an image. Will make copy and paste easier for folks.

 

This is a great thread. I have went back and forth about swapping to an LSx in my Thirdgen for at least 15 years lol (4 different Thirdgens). I think the biggest question(s) for me have been...which pullout motor initially requires the least amount of work to get started? Example besides getting an LS1 out of 98-2002 4th Gen, which other platform requires the least amount of work GTO, CTS-V, Vette with respect to FEAD configurations? Then the last question is with respect to automatics transmissions, is the 4L60E the only tranny that will fit into a Thirdgen? I see a lot of LS3 pullouts but they have 6L60E transmissions. So if one is looking for the easiest fit with respect to FEAD, Throttle Cable, and Auto trans...it looks like the best pullout is from a 98-02 Camaro/Firebird. Also I live in an area that can see temps over 100* for 30 days a year, so I need AC. All of these factor when doing a cost benefit analysis comparing a higher performance LSx swap vs. a SBC 383cid with Stealth Ram.

 

Here are a few things I learned after throwing belts and burping power steering fluid with my F-body LS1 FEAD.

• Early LS engines (such as LS1 F-body) have a tendency of the tensioner pulley to throw belts during high rpm decel. This can be improved by using a LS2 tensioner pulley with a taller rim. If problems persist then it might be necessary to switch to a manual belt tensioner, such as the Katech. If installing a manual tensioner then repeat the belt tensioning procedure after about 5-10 minutes of run time to give the belt an opportunity to stretch and sink down into the pulley grooves.
• Power steering pump has a maximum continuous shaft speed rating of 7000 rpm and 7500 rpm intermittent. This is not engine speed, this is the speed of the pump pulley. An underdrive crank pulley may be needed for high rpm engines.
• LS power steering pumps tend to flow too much fluid causing overheating and burping when reservoir pressure exceeds 20 psi. Turn One can modify the pump to operate more efficiently to avoid this.
• Some LS engines have a plastic power steering pulley. If the pulley becomes damaged then perhaps consider changing to a metal pulley, either OEM or aftermarket depending on what shaft diameter is required.

 

Good points there qwk. Keep in mind the Katech manual tensioner fits well with the ls3/1s7 setup but does not work with the holley systems. It physically bolts on but you cannot get tools to it to make the proper belt adjustments. Ill update this thread some more soon. Work has been in the way.

 

Where would the 04 LS1 or the 05-06 LS2 GTO's fit in this sticky? I don't see any of those diagrams that looks like the GTO accessory drive at least as far as the a/c is concerned. I don't know if it helps, but I did find a good picture of the front serpentine drive on an 05-06 GTO if you want to add it to this...

 

The GTO setup is the same as the 4th gen setup. Thanks for the pic!

 

I just got a long block L76 out of a G8. Crank pulley measures as short. Am I best piecing together another short FEAD or switching to a Medium style? Still not sure if I'm doing A/C or not. Would the hawks notch work with the short set up if I go that route? Car is a 84 TA.

 

The Hawks notch will work with any 3rd gen K-Member. As for starting with G8 accessories, it is up to you. I would map out various combos and see what they are running cost wise.

 

well thus far searching for G8 parts has been a challenge for sure. I should have been clearer about the k member notch. will the back of the compressor clear with a short set up? The pictures on hawks it looks kind of tight and I'm guessing the pictures are a medium set up.

 

I wouldn't trust it to fit with the short setup unless you look into a sanden mini. Are you trying to piece the kit together using new parts? Or trying to find a used takeoff?

 

A note on the low mount AC Tensioner.
I have the DAYCO 4PK92EE stretch belt installed on the Dirty Dingo Low mount SD7B10 bracket/compressor configuration, doing away with the tensioner.
At first I was going to stay with the stock steering but made brackets and used a power 6" Rack and pinion.
The idea for the stretch belt came after working on my 17 Silverado and its vacuum pump, wondering why it would be an option where there was an interference with the steering. I'm not ready to start the car yet, but getting closer. Figured I'd contribute this as an option for interference issues.

 

Are you guys using Small or Large Case Alternators (30-Series vs 44-Series) and what diameter Alternator pulley?

 

I just realized I never responded to this. I am running a large case alternator with a 63.5 mm Pulley (59mm to diameter of ribs). Holley 197-303.

I've been loathing the way my AC lines look in my engine bay, and also want to relocated my AC drier so I will be making some changes to my FEAD. I will be going away from the Holley High mount system to the Holley mid mount system. It just makes everything more compact and gives ample room for AC lines. Since most of my accessories transfer over it wasn't a big deal. However, Holley uses a specific spacing that is non GM traditional. As such, I have to change my ATI balancer out for the Holley SFI unit. I will post more when I start tearing out the old. I am also going to ditch the stock AC condenser and install the new Vintage Air system for our cars. I was tempted to start completely over and change my Compact II system to their new Sure Fit 3rd gen specific kit. For now I will meet in the middle (don't want to take the dash out again).

 

They got you locked in now!

 

I know. I'm an idiot.

 

I was just going to comment on the same thing.


I do not know much the Balancer from Holley Costs, however if it is just as much or more than an ATI Balancer....?

KEEP THE ATI BALANCER!!!
...Call them for a Quote on a Custom Hub that will meet the Depth needs of the new Accessory Belt System.
It should be less expensive!



There is something about modularity( Customization, rebuildability/ repairability, and Upgradability) that I JUST LOVE!
It is why I incorporate it into my High-End Custom Wiring Systems, Power Distribution, CAN-BUS, -AN Plumbing, Etc...


Many of the Hubs that I needed Custom (or often off the shelf, just for a different application, have ranged $90 - $200 USD.

 

So I did consider that and even called Holley. Good news. The Holley unit is in fact an ATI unit. I was pleasantly surprised when I opened the UPS box to see an ATI box. They may share the same hub but the rest seems pretty different. The Holley (ATI) unit requires a pulley whereas my LS ATI does not. I'll get some side by sides but from my research the mid mount is 2.07 inches farther away from the front plane of the block compared to the GM (close) spacing.

 

So I did a quick unboxing this morning and with my calibrated eye it appears this unit could be the same exact unit I already have. Ironically the new Holley pulley is a tickle over 2". I may be able to get away with just the pulley and return the balancer (assuming they are in fact a duplicate). This could save me a serious chunk of coin.

 

So I started the swap and will be sharing photos and general info soon. Before that, anyone know of a Saginaw type 2 power steering pump with threaded bosses? Mine are pass through and this kit is configured differently.

 

Most have Threads...

Example below:

 

I should have clarified, I need threads in the housing in the 3 mount holes. Some pumps have them (Holley) some don't. The mounting threads in the high mount were in the bracket itself. The new design requires the bolts to pass through the bracket and into the threaded mounts machined into the housing. I'm good for hose connections. Both PS pumps I have on hand lack threads. It's 8x1.25 so I may just tap it to 10mm.

Trying to avoid buying a new pump. I think I can use long bolts and some nuts on the back end. We'll see.

 

So i've basically finished the switch over and here are few thoughts.

1. The easiest, yet most expensive is to just buy the whole kit. However, you can piece meal it together if you already have some of the parts (alternator, AC compressor, etc).
2. It appears not all Type 2 GM steering pumps are the same. The best is so find one that has each of the mounting holes tapped. You can use a type two that has pass through bolts, but its not as clean and requires long bolts and nuts on the back. If you want to run a remote reservoir you'll need a pump with the AN inlet and return as mentioned above. The Holley AN Type 2 conversion fitting kits do not work on all pumps. I ended up buying an Eddie Motorsports pump for $140. The price for the Holley unit is insane.
3. The mid mount system has a unique spacing to it that does not follow the traditional GM Close, Middle Far standards. However, they are close. Basically, the Holley kit is slightly farther out then the GM "close" spacing. If you already have an ATI balancer you can get away without buying the Holley SFI unit. The holley unit is also made by ATI, but does not come with a ribbed pulley, rather a smooth and smaller diameter one. You can still run the ribbed pulley if you already have it. The Holley/ATI unit and the "Close" spacing ATI dampener use the same exact hub. You'll just need to buy the Holley pulley that will bolt to the front of your existing ATI and or the Holley/ATI balancer.
4. The water pump for this system serves as the main bracket for all of the accessories. It also includes a few cool features that can come in real handy. It has two options for coolant hose location and it also has a tapped NPT fitting on the back to incorporate your cylinder head steam vents. This cleans up another hose that has to be run to the radiator.
5. If you do piece meal the kit you'll need to buy hardware, water pump gasket, heater hose NPT fittings (barbed or AN), plug or fitting for the steam vent, and a thermostat O-ring.


Left to right: ATI LS "Close spacing Balancer", Holley/ATI smooth balancer (no belt ribs), Holley Mid mount Pulley



All buttoned up, sans AC lines and coolant hoses. It is so much cleaner than how I had things before.



Made a quick bracket for my remote PS reservoir. You don't need to do this if you use a standard GM OEM plastic unit.


Multiple Locations for heater hose.

Steam Vent location on pump housing rather than direct to radiator.