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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
I still have the radiator fan parts from my '89 2.8L. Is this still useful for anything? Just want to get some feedback before I let go because it's super nice condition.
I am a bit curious about the difference in CFM between the single large fan and the dual smaller fans. It could be a somewhat elegant solution for mild ls-swaps.
I used the stock single fan on a ls3 swap with a stock style replacement radiator and had no over heating even with AC on in stop and go traffic . The ls3 was all stock though. I had a 180 stat in it and it seemed to run at about 190 .
I still have the radiator fan parts from my '89 2.8L. Is this still useful for anything? Just want to get some feedback before I let go because it's super nice condition.
I trimmed the upper and lower brackets and bonded them to the GTO dual fans. I’ve since sold this one with the stock radiator to another 3rd gen owner, but it work great and wired easily to the e40 ECU. What is more interesting is that the fan assembly from a VW Beetle and the GTO are identical, even the same manufacturer. So, yes, there is a use for the original single fan parts.
Im still on stock rad with factory single fan and it has always been under 200 racing or not. But with the new engine Im planning on a bigger rad and might go with the C7 Z06 factory brushless spal fan/shroud setup its a large single as well.
Last edited by obeymybird; Feb 11, 2022 at 04:15 PM.
Im still on stock rad with factory single fan and it has always been under 200 racing or not. But with the new engine Im planning on a bigger rad and might go with the C7 Z06 factory brushless spal fan/shroud setup its a large single as well.
To use the Spal Electric Cooling Fan in the Image above...
You most likely will have to replace your Alternator for a higher output Unit (if you still have a stock Alternator, then it 100% needs to be Upgraded).
What are you using for an Alternator?
Also if you do Upgrade the Alternator...
The Power-Cable from the Alternator to the Battery NEEDS to be Upgraded to a larger-size/ lower-numbered Gauge.
If using a Fusible-Link or In-Line Fuse, they will need to be spec'd for the higher output Alternator/ Amperage demand of the New Fan.
The Main Power and Ground Cables should also be Upgraded.
Using My Account to the GM Engineering Information Database (Updated Feb. 2022) for 2015 Camaros, shows multiple Alternator Options...
Most 6.2L Builds (L99 and LS3) use a 150A PWM Controlled Alternator.
They use a Stud for the Charge Cable, and a small Two-Wire Connector, shown below:
Sorry for the confusion when I said 1 wire I was referring to the charge wire. The small 2 wire port remains unused. From how I understand this alt has a internal regulator that if not controlled by a PWM it will go to a default setting of 13.8 volts.
Sorry for the confusion when I said 1 wire I was referring to the charge wire. The small 2 wire port remains unused. From how I understand this alt has a internal regulator that if not controlled by a PWM it will go to a default setting of 13.8 volts.
Yes, that will work as long as the Demand/ Load on the Alternator does not near it's Peak.
If the Alternator needs to operate near Peak Output, the Battery will become discharged and the Operating Voltage will drop quickly.
At Peak Output, the System will fall off very quickly unless the Charge Rate can return to at least 14.6 Volts.
Wow! I didn't expect this kind of positive response. Didn't realize so many people used single fans. Also didn't realize I have a "service part" that will drop right into my dual fan set. I'll just keep this stuff in that case.
Yes, that will work as long as the Demand/ Load on the Alternator does not near it's Peak.
If the Alternator needs to operate near Peak Output, the Battery will become discharged and the Operating Voltage will drop quickly.
At Peak Output, the System will fall off very quickly unless the Charge Rate can return to at least 14.6 Volts.
Actually given we're in a fan conversation I'd love to pick your brain on this... I bought a shroud with aftermarket PWM brushless spal fans assuming I could control them with the E38 PCM. This is evidently incorrect based on what Spal has said on public forms - the OEM units (ie C6) have different controller code than the aftermarket ones and are looking for more of a PWM- signal ... inverse of what the E38 is sending out. Id really dont want to run a standalone PWM controller for the fans... any thoughts?
