2" since they're the sport lines. Spohn claims anywhere from 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 (didn't get them from Spohn)

"Eibach Sportline lowering spring sets offer extreme lowering for the extreme enthusiast."
LOL!!!!!!!!!!

 

Hmm, i wonder why this is such an on-going problem? Even if your block ( engine ) is all aluminum, i still cant see it bringing the front up that much. You went with the cross member, but that is suspencion weight, not body weight like the engine would be. Ive looked into a little further, and have yet to come up with a logical reason. Maybe if you contact Eibach, they can give you a good explaination on why this is an on going problem.

 

Funny thing is, most of the time, the people that do the engine swap only, without doing suspencion, or k-member swaps, do not have this problem. Ive seen some as well that has went with the same spring on a stock suspencion, and stock motor for that matter, and the springs did what they were supposed do do. Sorry guys, just thinking out loud

 

Just as an FYI from someone who is doing basically the same "strip and rebuild," My car as it sat with my Tokico springs and shocks had about an inch if clearence from the top of the tire to the fender. When I started stripping my car, and removed the hood, hatch, interior, etc, I had about 3 to 4 inches of space. Those extra parts while they don't seem like they would weigh much do make a big difference to how it sits, and especially not having the fenders and hood on the fromt. Thats prob another 100-150 lbs and that WILL drop the front quite a bit.

I'd say wait until you get it mostly back together and see how much of a difference it makes in the ride height. Cars looking great so far by the way! That exhaust is killer....wish I had that kind of fab skills! Good luck.

 

I have read on hear many time that once you have the car back together and actually drive it for a while that new springs will settle as much as 1" to 1.5". I would wait till you drive it a bit before you start mods on the spring.

 

Got more stuff done.

Heater box is all done now, modified the stock bracket for the blower relay, added a 90 deg bend to it w/ the sheet metal brake so it screws onto the front


Did a similar thing with the stock coil bracket and used the aluminium blocks supplied w/ the MSD coil. All in all a pretty clean install IMO A;; that's left to do is remove that red overspray from the convoluted tubing.


Decided to move the heater valve here, I don't like it dangling up front in plain view


Scored a 3000 series OEM GM alarm system that I'm wiring up so I have a fob w door & hatch release. Tucked the control box away here, wiring runs through the convoluted tubing. I want it to look as factory as possible. Power comes from a stock fuse holder that I mounted in the engine bay, instead of the 1 by the battery I now have 3 (the other is for the aux. fuel pump)



I hid that unsightly horn between the bumper and front sheet metal


Biggest bummer of the day is, my NOS old ERSON valve covers don't fit. They are perimeter bolt and my heads are center bolt but I had 1 set of those adapters left but they don't fit. The adapters interfere w/ the rocker positioning on the twisted wedge heads Time to find some cast, tall center bolt valve covers. These Erson ones did clear the washer pump under the wiper motor, there was plenty of room to add the adapter too. Drat!

 

as far as the springs go, i drove my car for a few weeks and was still noticing it lowering.....i would get it all together and drive it and see where it settles. i don't have my isolaters in.....it makes it a little noisy but drops it where i like it. one ?, do you plan on putting a new torque arm in to replace the stamp steel? with the power you'll be making it'd be a good idea .

 

Maybe, not sure yet. Those things are expensive to ship and if I upgrade I'd rather have a decoupled arm. There's no kit out there apart from a 4th gen one so I may have to do some fabrication. !st is to get it all back together.

 

I Love what you are doing to this car!! Your attention to detail and fab skills are top notch!!!

Have you checked these valve covers out?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/50104/10002/-1
I have them on my car with no fit issues.


Now for a few questions:
1. What is a superfueler, and whats it's purpose??
2. What is the Sublime Green Mopar I keep seeing in the background?
3. Being from Europe, how did you and your buddy 69Cyclone get so very much into American Muscle???

 

I have a set of those, IMO they're too shiny and clash with the rest. I'd rather have cast ones but can't find any so I doubt someone makes them for centerbolt heads.

 

Got the VSC 3000 alarm installed, damn it's one nice piece! Should have done that sooner. It was a lot of work to cleanly wire it in so it looks factory. I hate butt connectors and scotch blocks. I only use shrink sleeve and soldering. Here are my 3 fuse holders, 1 for the aux fuel pump, 1 for the alarm and the other is the original one that was already hanging there.



Finally done with the dynamat like stuff. I decided to do the fender wells and rear compartment. Ran out of the thick stuff and used the thinner rattle trap to finish the last section of the trunk area


Hooked up the heater and KC4 cooler hoses. Used sleeves to protect it from chafing. Also used those spring clamps everywhere. I can't stand the sight of hose clamps, even if these things are a bitch to work with (I don't have the required pliers LOL)


Relocated the heater valve here, much cleaner this way IMO with only 1 hose running to the motor in plain sight.


Fuel lines are all done too, incl. FMU. Not doing the superfueler, it interferes with so much stuff I don't want to mess with it.

 

Did some more. Fixed the rust holes in front of the door and redid the seams there and to the front (inner fender)



This will be my elbow hookup, have to fab the elbow and weld it to this plate.


Painted the cowl area and reinstalled the cowl screen and wipers


Wired up this harness with a tail light converter to get 4 red stop/turn lights. It works fine, until you press the brakes w/ the turn lights on and then it freezes on the side that should blink. This stupid chinese POS is fubar. I'll do it the old fashion way with 3 NC relays pulling 12V off the battery and using the signals just to switch. A little more wiring but I refuse to waste money on crap like this again.

 

fixed the other side rust, sealed the seams and put bedliner over the entire areas on both sides so it doesn't show as badly that it was repaired and it's now weatherproof.





The rear storage lid does actually close right, I had to guess where the brackets went as I don't have any reference here. Worked out fine



Put the carpet back in, it's starting to look like a car again



I also put a micro switch on the pulldown motor so if someone pops the lock and the trunk opens the alarm will go off. You can see the micro switch on the drivers side next to the nylon linered guide rail. Pressing the 3rd button on my fob will also pop the trunk. LOL it's almost a luxury car


biggest bummer of the day.... that damned Hawks Thirdgen high rise spoiler is crooked. I didn't notice before because the car was on the lift w/ the back close to the workbench. Now that I had it in the clear and stepped away from it I saw it immediately. It stands out like a sore thumb it's completely unusable, it looks like ****!!!!!!!! I contacted hawks, I hope they work with me to make it right as it not only cost a small fortune, shipping was murder too!

See how the drivers side curves off to the rear




Not a happy camper right now!

 

actually, I would think your left side is the correct angle and the rest isn't. but that still is bs.

 

I think they make these as 1 piece, then lob off the ends and glass the sides shut and smooth the cut out. The end sort of perfectly matches the crooked center piece.

The worst part apart from wasting a bunch of money, I drilled additional holes for this POS. Not just the center, the ends also didn't line up with the stock holes. I had to drill 2 additional holes on the top all the way to the back of the quarter.

 

WOW!! Awsome work on the build. Bummer on that wing they should have seen that before they shipped it out hope they make it right with you. What color are you going to go with on the body when it's all done?

 

Gonna be red like it used to be but without stripes or the impact moldings, just the iroc logos

Haven't heard a peep from Hawks yet....

 

It should look great when it,s done.

 

Awesome work! This gonna be one slick(sick) ride. That exhaust looks great too!

 

Fabbed a little mount for the retard box, decided to stick it behind the bumper. not much room in the engine and I didn't want a bulky bracket. I also need the space for some reservoirs and a water to air intercooler





Installed a good chunk of the interior including the nice carpeted console I got from 3rdgenranch (amongst a whole bunch of other parts)



Put together this box, it's missing 1 nc relay, came 1 short so only 1 indicator is working but I'll have a full set tomorrow. This box converts the stock amber turn/red brake lights into 2 turn/brake lights, painted the lenses to suit. Never liked the amber.



W/ lid on, also missing 8 pin connector body, also coming tomorrow (hopefully)


All red vs stock, I like the reds a lot better.




A vid of it working (blinkers on but vid may not have processed right now)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5OksxvUW8w

 

What paint did you use for the lenses? The "transparent candy apple red" that everyone seems to use? They turned out very nice

 

Special tail light lense paint



Sorta like this stuff available to you

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...IDA/deniafomi/

I sprayed the inside of the lens (took the housing apart) as it's illegal to do and no one will notice it's painted this way

 

Did you spray the section inside the lense that was red already, or just spray the amber section?

I'm just assuming you sprayed both sections, that's the best color match I think I've seen. Really does look good

 

just the amber, several light coats till it was the right shade. Kept checking against the red section holding it in a strong light to see if the 2 were about the same color.

 

I think its time to fire this beast up...

 

Still have to sort out the crank pulley, waiting on some missing bits of the fuel system and still have to mod the cooling system/radiator and hook up the power steering pump.

Been busy w/ the 82 trans am and some other stuff so didn't get a whole lot done.

I did fabricate a small bracket for the power steering reservoir

 

not sure if you even figured out what intake manifold you have, but jerrywho seems to have the same one, its pictured here, and the name is in there too
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...eaders-my.html

"Mc Farland "short ram" was on the box."

 

Yes, I know what it is. He outbid me on that intake on ebay

 

ah ok, just noticed another one and though i would share

 

There were 2 on ebay, I missed both of them

 

Beat me to it.

 

Added cold air ducting to the SC air filter. Not sure I'm 100% satisfied with it as it is, I'd rather have it rotated to the underside of the filter. Will have to check if there is room. the black piece is simply fabricated from some rolled alu sheet and a 3" alu tube.

 

thats their disfunction... for real man...

 

Amazing Work.
I just spend like an hour reading through it and it is just awesome.
Great Job.

 

Yeah man you gotta do something about that tube...eye soar.

 

You're right, I removed it. An eyesore indeed LOL
I'll have to come up with something better. I may just try to fabricate some alu ducting that I can hook up to the stock filter, I always like that setup.

Didn't get much done, only a small bracket for a 2 bar map sensor the reason is, these took up a chunk of my time. The gray maro was a buddies, not anymore



and after waiting for months this came in too I think it's the only white one here in the Netherlands. I know of 2 black ones, one in good condition the other is junk. Only 23K on this one.

 

I got some **** done ... not much but still LOL
My main problem was the crank pulley, the stock one I couldn't use because of the fat belt conversion, a stock serpentine one was too large since i use small pulleys on the wp, so I had to get an underdrive one. Did I mention those are cheaply made Chinese POS things? Damn, what a poor quality. There's chips and craters in them and they wobble too.

Main problem, it's too long, needs 12mm removed to move the grooves back that amount. What to do? I need it to go together wobble free so on the lathe a section was removed and then the last section on both ends was stepped so they interlock, the 2 halves were pressed together and then tig welded (ran out of gas about 90% there on the inside, will have to finish it up after I get me some new gas)
The pulley also lacked the centric recess for the spacer and I didn't want to do without that. The spacer of course was too long too so that one was milled down also

Pulley halves after machining, pressed back together. Took out 12mm.


Centric section machined in


A little welding


On the inside too...the setup w/ the bolt is my quicky rotating fixture for easier welding


With the spacer and SC pulley


it all lines up perfectly now. After welding that last bit it's going to be blasted and powdercoated black again.

Also mounted dial **** for crane retard and a bracket for a 2 bar map sensor

 

What year and model is that Black Chevy truck?

 

83 c10 silverado and it's blue

 

Got my pulley back from the powdercoater and put it together.. it fits like a glove. I'm pretty pleased with the result, small pulleys, plenty of space, looks a ton better than the horrible stock flat belt/v belt combo. It should run a lot better too, no squealing belts anymore. It's a tight fit in there with the KRC power steering pump. With the under-driven crank pulley the WP is still a little overdriven but only a smidgen.

It all lines up straight as an arrow. Now the wait is for my intercooler and bypass valve along with some other neat stuff so I can get moving on this thing again. Been too long w/ too little progress.

 

Why no A/C?

 

It cleans up the engine bay and the 3 days a year it's 100 deg here,....I don't need no stinking ac

 

I agree. For some reason i have in my head, a true hot rod shouldnt have A/C. Thats what my T-Tops are for any-way ha ha.

 

Can I get some more info on how you did those tail lights (the electrical part, not the paint part)? I'm really interested in doing that to mine.

Well I guess I do have ONE question about the paint portion of your tail light mod. Did you take the lenses apart or spray the red through the hole for the bulb? I'm assuming you disassembled them.

 

It looks amazing. I really love how its come together. I wish I could put together something like that.

 

I took the lenses apart.

As for the wiring, It uses 4 relays, I'll have to draw up a wiring diagram for you.

 

That would be great if you could do that for me.

 

I'll draw it out when I'm home

I managed to get the radiator setup done, modified and welded the rad to fit a short -20 AN hose.



Also had to mod the rad mount, came out ok

 

Finished my trans cooler setup, used flex lines from tranny to a bulkhead, then hard lines and then flex lines to a remote filter setup and the cooler. Still need to add lower brackets to the cooler.

 

sorry for the stupid question, but does that fitting on the radiator clear the hood? i imagine you did test fit it before hand, but it just looks a bit high to be in the pics.

everything else is looking sweet, as usual