mrfrankmrfrank

Well guys, I return. I have been a registered user at this forum for several years now and have barely ever posted. I started posting here when I purchased my first f-body back in the winter of 2007. I will be the first to admit that when I purchased my camaro in 2007, I was younger and quite more immature. I posted on this forum often times in anger at my car. It had starting issues and various other issues. I took to this forum to complain and ask for help. I am older now and have a much better outlook on life and cars in general.

I am starting this thread as an appreciation thread, buld log, work log, mods, upgrades, life story, etc of a 1989 Camaro that is relatively in good condition. I purchased this car in the winter of 2007, had some work done to it, and then for the most part, it has sat in storage for the better part of the past two years as I did not have the money for insurance, or to have it fixed. In the time that has passed since I last spent significant time in this forum, or in the third gen community as a whole, some things have happened.

I used to have a huge list of upgrades planned for this car. I wanted it to be a show car / daily driver for the summer months. This car has always been stored in the winter (minus one winter where I was mad at it and left it out). Now that I have been reunited with the car, I have an overwhelming urge to protect this car, far more than when I was younger. I want to ensure it lives as long as it possibly can, perhaps the rest of my life. These cars are becoming rarer and rarer on the roads, and finding new oem parts for these cars is getting harder and harder. (i.e. oem weatherstripping etc)

I want to drive this car in the summer, preserve it is some classic American muscle. This car still has a lot of original everything...weatherstripping, gauge lighting, paint, etc. It's all in mostly great condition... but we're going to work on some things.

I feel that together, this forum and myself, can look at this car as a group project. I will take criticisms well and will evaluate every recommendation posted on this thread. I am far more a computer nerd than a gear-head, so please, PLEASE be patient with me when talking technical work. I will most likely have my trusty local mechanic installing various upgrades to this car, and will only attempt work I feel I can perform myself.

I haven't seen this car in two years as I put it in storage and left it.... I should have made trips there to start it and keep fluids in it, but I never made the trip. I have the car back and have been driving it for only a few days at the time of posting this thread. July 2011.

I will be posting an insane amount of pictures soon enough and will do my best to have this thread as organized as possible.



Current planned work....

Interior lighting.....
Currently I feel that one or so bulbs may be burned out in my dash gauge cluster. I do not know yet how many bulbs are in the gauge cluster, but I plan on replacing them with leds from superbrightleds.com I am not necessarily going to be putting some crazy color leds in the dash to give this car a "rice" look. This is not going to happen. Instead I like the idea of having the least electrical pull on this car as possible. The led's are a bright, low energy alternative to stock lighting. I realized the other night that I have absolutely no lights on my shifter plate. I was trying to park my car in the driveway and I had to make a few shifts from drive to reverse. I actually had to turn on the dome light to see which position the shifter was in. ....I may replace the dome light as well with an led.


Sub-frame Connectors.......
This is going to be the first mod I do to this car. This is a 350 supercharged engine and I have a lot of creaks and rattle on various parts of this car and the t-tops. I want to stiffen it up with some sub frame connectors. A friend of mine installed the Spohn connectors on his camaro and he swears by them. I have read various threads on this forum where it has been recommended for extra rigidity to use both an outer and inner sfc. I think I will go this route as I want the car to last as long as possible, and I figure the less stress on the frame the better. To be honest, I am not sure which type of connectors the Spohn are from looking at them on hawks, (inner or outer), but any recommendations from my readers would be much appreciated. (brands, inner and outer, or just one?)

Paint / Rust.....
This car has the original paint. It is for the most part in excellent condition. There is little wear on the paint, however it has faded over the years. There are some locations on the body that I feel I need to get touched up before they start to rust. I will state here that there is no visible rust on the car's body. There are only two small rust spots on the underbelly of the car. The main parts I am concerned about with regards to worn paint and potential rusting are as follows. There is worn paint near the edges of the car on the top where the body meets the t-tops (pictures will be taken soon) as well as some edges near the rear hatch. I guess my best option is to find a good auto-body place and have them sand and paint these areas? I have no idea about this and would definitely appreciate feedback from this community. (perhaps pictures later will help you guys make a decision) As for the rust on the belly of the car. There are one or two spots mid car that are starting to show some rust. It is not penetrating rust by any means, just surface. I plan to sand these areas and paint them with a rust killing paint. (any recommendations on this would be appreciated as well...brand etc) There is one part of the bottom of the car that has a bit more rust. It is a thin horizontal strip of metal near the rear of the car. I think from memory it is where the bumper meets the body... I will take pictures later.... but it has rusted through a few places.... not sure what I'm going to do with this yet... I just want to maintain this car's body as best I can. I do not feel that it needs a paint job (yet) if I can touch-up these areas.






Weatherstripping.....
The t-tops actually don't leak that bad... I mean, they leak.... but not horribly... Just on the edges of the windows.... I feel that they are the original seals on the t-tops, and they are starting to look a bit dry-rot. The real problem on my car is the door weatherstripping is really bad. I have to replace both door's weatherstripping immediately. The bottom of the doors and the glass strips. I've had to drain water out of my doors before... I feel that I may purchase the "entire weatherstripping kit from hawks" even though it is aftermarket stripping. I wanted oem but that seems to be discontinued.



High-output alternator.....
This is kind of a grey area for me. I have a decent sound system in this car that I installed.... What can I say...I like some bass with my music. I built the box custom and have Infinitty Kappa Perfects 12.1d's in the car. I have some real issues with dimming lights and engine surging if I've been playing my music.. Actually.....this may not even be related to my music because I have a real problem with engine surging regardless if my stereo is on or not.... Sometimes I can get to a stop light and my car will surge, rev down, surge, rev down, surge, rev down... The tach will actually tick with the turn signal.. The car just seems to be drained of all electrical power sometimes.... I don't know if this is a bad ground or what.... (this may also be the biggest issue this whole thread faces)

Radiator fan......
When I first purchased the car, I was sitting one day with it off and the stereo on... I noticed I heard something coming from the engine bay. The previous owner of the car had wired a relay to the stereo. If the radio was on, the second radiator fan was on. I was like....ok... I'm gonna have to fix this. I had a mechanic change the radiator fan to stock (a thermostat) Ever since then though, I feel as if my car potentially overheats. I have never seen the second fan kick on regardless of temp. I can't tell you the numbers right now since I'm not in the car, but I know what I've seen the needle go to and I will report that back here soon.
**Update 7/6/2011... As I've since investigated the gauge in the car, I can say that I don't think I've seen the temp go over 220. As evilmokid94 has stated below, the second fan should not kick on until 238. If this is the case, is 220 a a safe operating temperature? This is usually where I see the gauge after a bit of driving. When the second fan was wired to the radio, the temp would never climb above 160...


Keyless entry....
This car already has stock power locks and windows... It wont cost much to add keyless entry. I just like this idea because the fewer times I have to put a key near the paint the better.

So there you have it guys... That is where I am at. This is just a starter thread and I will try to answer as many questions as I can. I will edit this post and update it with the most recent and relevant information I have. Many more pictures will soon follow....

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

the second fan wont kick on till 238 F

mrfrankmrfrank

Thanks for the info on the temps. I have updated my original post to reflect your information as well as added a few pictures overall.

mrfrankmrfrank

ENGINE

mrfrankmrfrank

AUDIO

mrfrankmrfrank

INTERIOR

mrfrankmrfrank

EXTERIOR / EMBLEMS
The vinyl pinstriping that wraps around the car is peeling. I will have to have this removed and replaced... Pics to follow on that. Also the two rear emblems are damaged. The left emblem on the rear is missing most of the letters. I see on hawks they have two versions of this emblem. I am unsure of what the stock emblem said... either "tuned port injection" or "5.7 tuned port injection" Anyone who could comment on that would be great. Also I am unsure of exactly what the emblem on the right was.... "IROC-Z" perhaps? if so, what color?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

220 is normal aswell, your safe

mrfrankmrfrank

I just ordered a set of
Camaro/Firebird Spohn 82-92 Sub-Frame Connectors, Hard or T-Top
and
83-92 UMI GM F-Body Tubular Front Steering Brace "Wonder Bar"
from hawks.

karl's-92'-z28

iTrader: (5)

I thought Irocs had stock wonderbar?

mrfrankmrfrank

Crap, they probably do. I didn't even realize. My car knowledge is showing haha. I was just reading through recommended first upgrades on the forum and tossed that in along with the subframe connectors during my purchase at hawks.

mrfrankmrfrank

After researching the topic a bit more, I can see that more than likely my car does have a stock wonderbar. I will know more when I get it on a lift to install the subframe connectors. I'm going to use this as a lesson to slow down my purchasing next time. I just "tossed" it in my cart without really doing my research. I'd like to note that I'm not some spoiled kid or anything. I do work for my money and I don't want to come off as someone who just blows through money.

I was looking at strut braces as a potential next purchase. I actually like the look of the Hotchkis strut braces, but I see that they have been discontinued. I may actually try and track down one for sale somewhere. I think however I should really take care of the door weatherstripping first.

karl's-92'-z28

iTrader: (5)

well if you dont have one, atleast you ordered it...hahahaha, do the weatherstrip when you repaint the car. I believe UMI has a nice upper strut bar that you dont have to drill any holes. They bolt onto your strut mounts & looks like a cleaner install.

karl's-92'-z28

iTrader: (5)

Hows that procharger working out? Wich one is it?

mrfrankmrfrank

It's a Procharger P1SC. I really like it. It was installed by the previous owner of the car. It looks like he did a solid job of installing it. By the specs of the supercharger it looks like it should be pushing 5-9 lbs of boost. The boost gauge usually can only get as high as 4 or so lbs of boost. I don't know if there is a difference between spec listings of boost vs actual real world lbs of boost or perhaps I have a leak.

My mechanic recently told me that he feels the bearing on my supercharger is bad and is louder than normal. He suggested I just buy a whole new blower. I am by no means a mechanic or even know much about cars but I'm not sure if I agree with him entirely about the bearing on the blower. I have looked up videos of this model on youtube and they all sound the same. I will shoot a video of the charger in action soon and post it here for the forum's opinions.

mrfrankmrfrank

I didn't realize the Hotchkis strut braces required drilling into the car. I think I remember that 4 years ago when I was looking at this upgrade. I like the idea of the UMI then.

With regards to my paint. Based on the pictures I've provided, will I be able to repair the existing / original paint of the car. The pictures I've posted are really the majority of the paint issues. You said to wait and do the weatherstripping when I repaint the car... were you suggesting I was going to have to repaint the entire car? (I have no idea what is practical in this situation and I'm looking for advice in this department from anyone who wishes to contribute suggestions... thanks guys)

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

The paint looks really good from the picture you posted. If you are not through the clearcoat, any good detailer/body guy will be able to buff it out for you. It could run in the upwards of several hundred dollars to have done, but that is better than the $2-3K+ for a paint job.

Instead of the STB, have you put thought into your basics like steering components, tires, brakes, shocks/struts, or a tune-up (plugs, wires, fuel filter, O2 sensor, etc.)? Not exactly sure what the previous owner did, but if those are wearing out you could benefit greatly from that stuff. Just thoughts.

mrfrankmrfrank

Thanks for your input. My only question about the paint specifically was what to do with the couple of spots where the paint is worn. In the pictures you can see near the rear hatch edges, as well as the edge of the body near the t-tops the paint has flaked slightly. I didn't know if this could be touched up without having to repaint the whole car.

I may need to replace shocks soon but as far as tune-up-esque parts the engine was completely rebuilt around 5k miles ago so I hopefully wont need to worry about wires and such for awhile. I realize now that I didn't mention that it had been rebuilt so recently so thanks for the suggestions.

I'm not really looking at a STB to correct any current issues such as sloppy steering or poor handling, but perhaps more of a preventative protection of the car. I figured the more support I add to the cars chasis, the longer the car will last without cracking or twisting of the subframes etc.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I truly appreciate it. As I stated in my original post, I want to look at this car as a group effort of this forum. I am all ears for suggestions on how to maintain and upgrade this car.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

when you go to get your weatherstripping, look at 1aauto.com for them BUT if you go to ebay, look up the vendor AM-AUTOPARTS, they are the same company as 1aauto but they also are cheaper and they carry the same products.

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

Take it to a body shop. They will be able to blend those area into the rest of the car, if they are good. My car is being repainted right now and instead of repainting the whole car they are going to blend the paint from top to bottom. The lower portion of my car is in perfect shape, the roof, hood, and deck lid are fading like mad.

I would look into struts/shocks Koni are going to be the best "affordable" combo you can go with. They are around $650 for all of them, but should be the last set you will ever buy. With the IROC you should have the thicker front and rear sway bars, so if the bushing are worn out I would replace those. Then look at the end links, if you plan on lowering the car in the near future don't bother with them just yet, but if you do not plan on lowering your car look at the bushing in those and replace as necessary.

With the Procharger under the hood I would look into beefing up the rear suspension adjustable PHB/LCA/LCARB. These are all bolt on parts and you will be able to do them yourself with hand tools, floor jack, jack stands, and some patients.

Now if you want to get into more adjustabibility, I would look into J&M Caster/Camber plates and snowball from there.

mrfrankmrfrank

I'm really glad to hear that a body shop can blend paint. My car only has roughly those two spots that are weak in the paint. The rest is very good. If they can sand down the two rough spots and repaint them and then blend them into the existing paint, this is exactly what I need. I'm not going to skip on quality either. I understand good work can cost money. I will do my best to find a great body shop in the area.

I really appreciate you taking the time to suggest various suspension upgrades. I'll start investigating what my car needs this weekend. I'm planning a full front to back clean up and I'm going to wash and wax it.

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

No problem. I have an 89 IROC myself so I am kind of partial to them, even through all other years are pretty much the same thing.

Have fun and take your time. Don't try to throw all this money at the and expect great results. Carefully planned modifications will net you a gigantiac grin.

mrfrankmrfrank

Time for an update!

So I had ordered the spohn subframe connectors and had them shipped to my local mechanic. My mechanic finally had a bay open up so he asked me to drop off my car. When I got there we discussed a few things on future upgrades and the planned work we were going to perform on the car while it was there.

My mechanic and I were debating over the instructions for the spohn subframe connectors where they indicate to weld every few inches along the underside of the body from the front to the back. The mechanic wasn't sure if this was necessary or not. My guess is if anything, this is to prevent vibrations. Any input here would be appreciated.

Here are a few shots of the car being jacked up.





So with the camaro in the air, we spent a significant amount of time evaluating the underbody. Where is there rust, how bad is the rust, do I need new brakes... etc... We discovered that I have various surface rust along a few portions of the underbody. I didn't take any pictures of these spots, but I will soon. We also noticed that parts of the underbody were bent severely near the front of the car just behind the front tires... where somebody had obviously improperly jacked up the car... This kind of sucks but the damage is minimal and we are going to try and bend the metal back.

It was decided that in order for us to install the subframe connectors, we need to tackle the surface rust first. This Friday I am going to head to the shop and use a wire brush to remove as much rust from the underbody of the car as possible. Then we are going to apply some brand of rust killing paint. Once that is done we will progress to the subframe connector installation.

Upon further inspection of the car, we noticed that my rear bumper impact bar is all but rusting away. It is by far the worst rust on the car. Entire parts of this piece are gone. I plan on removing the bumper cover and replacing this metal piece. Luckily the frame of the car (the part that the bumper impact bar attaches to, is completely rust free) I will probably get this part from hawks (used) unless anyone has a better suggestion.

This is a (bad) picture of the rusted bumper impact bar..


As we finished walking around the car doing our inspection, we noticed a small amount of rust under the door bumper moulding. My mechanic told me that this bumper piece is usually glued on and is usually destroyed upon removing it (unavoidable). I plan on taking the car to an autobody place in the near future to work on some light paint work, and will probably have them fix this rust issue under the door bumper bar.

Here is a picture of that problem..


And lastly... perhaps the most intriguing discovery of the day..... and perhaps the most embarrassing to me as this cars owner.... I have never noticed this before... Even the mechanic did not see this at first. Nobody has ever noticed it before either or said anything.

I've always known that the silver pinstripe on my car was not original and had been put over a blue one. I knew this because the silver was peeling off in places showing the blue underneath. It was always my plan to remove both layers of vinyl pinstripe and replace them with a color of my choosing.

Today we noticed in addition to the layers of vinyl pinstripe....there is also what appears to be a much larger pinstripe that looks to be painted black and hidden on the car.... I don't know if this was an original stripe (stock) or what... or why it was painted black.... It blends in with the car that it is barely noticeable.... I want it gone though.... A good autobody place can hopefully remove this and help me figure out why it's there in the first place... thoughts?


Thanks guys. Going back in two days to grind away all of that surface rust underneath the car and get the subframe connectors welded in. I will take plenty of pictures..

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Go ahead and have them weld it along the SFC. A lot of guys do that.

Another important thinga bout the subframe connectors is that they be installed/welded on with weight on the cars wheels. The car should NOT be supported by the frame.

Here's how my guy (mw66nova) did it for me:





Jackstands on the hubs and jackstands on the rear axle. As far as the frame is concerned it's weighted exactly the same as it would be sitting on the ground. The chassis bends and flexes, hence the need for SFC's, if you do it when the frame is not supporting its own weight, it will be flexed and bent in a non-natural way,a nd the sfc's will permanently force it in that contortion.

That said, if they did weld it up in the position shown in the picture, it probably wont hurt anything per se, as long as it drives straight you're probably fine.

mrfrankmrfrank

good looking out buddy. I saw the lifts that my mechanic has and asked him about this. He showed me the stands he has to support the car via the suspension after he lifts it. I was glad to see that he knew that a subframe installation should be performed with the vehicle's weight on the suspension.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Good deal! Interesting to see people who actually know what they're doing!

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

The location of the SC air filter will present a fitment problem for any STB. Most likely, all STB braces will run into the filter. Quite possibly, no off-the-shelf STB will fit & a custom one will need to be made to clear the filter. Maybe just a relocation of the filter via a tube extension piece?

For double SFCs, inner & outer, go with the Alston ones for your inners. I see you already have outers, so your good to go there.

Fans do kick on at 238 as mentioned before, but running closer to 180 would benefit you, especially since your SC is sucking in 1000% hot underhood air. Simply extending the filter tubing to get the filter to a cooler air inlet source would be a big help. The stock SC setup would never work around here. 50 days in a row now above 100 & for the last several days, we've hit 104/107! 99 is a cold front here!

mrfrankmrfrank

Thanks for the tip about the Alston's. I think that is definitely the route to go. I like the idea of perhaps getting the intake some cold air, but I'm not sure where I could route that intake too. There isn't a lot of room to run intake pipe out of that area behind the supercharger.

As you're mentioning about benefiting with the 180... I've read mixed reviews about installing a lower thermostat so I haven't quite made up my mind about that one yet haha. I probably need to do more research on that subject or have someone explain to me if I should or shouldn't go that route.

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

Possible to go through the firewall & put the filter in the cowl area under the stock plastic vent cover? No idea how much room is in there, but it is a thought.

As for the thermostat, I wouldn't go under a 180. A 160 will keep the ECM in running in Open Loop so it wouldn't reach its full tuning potential by using the sensors.

mrfrankmrfrank

I spent the day at the shop. Started off by grinding all of the visible and loose rust debris off of the bottom of the car. I used a wire brush attached to a grinder.

Here are some rust before photos as well as the stands we used to put weight on the suspension.








Here is a better shot of that rusted bumper bar that needs to be replaced.

mrfrankmrfrank

Here are some shots of various stages of my wire brushing. As of right now I have applied the first coat of rust killer paint and will go back tomorrow morning to apply a second coat. Also, we found a previously unnoticed hole in the passenger rocker box... This was a pain to try and clean and remove all of the debris in there. I was able to remove the front right wheel and shroud and gain access to the entire area. I tried blowing our the leaves and rust flakes with an air compressor as well as a vacuum. I purchased this http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html and hope to use it to destroy as much rust as possible inside the rocker box.







Hole in rocker box..


I will take and post pictures of the first and second coats of the black rust killer paint that we applied when I get to the shop tomorrow. I'm very glad I have a mechanic that lets me use his space to work on my car.

mrfrankmrfrank

I feel like eventually I want to invest in a media blaster and remove every inch of the underbody. paint....rust..... everything.... then treat it, use a chemical rust destroyer...prime it, and seal it....

mrfrankmrfrank

more pics guys.

my mechanic welded in a patch over the rusted hole in my rocker box and then sealed it with a caulk.



Here are some various shots of me painting on the rust converting paint.

mrfrankmrfrank

puma1552

iTrader: (1)

You've got a solid car there, and I look forward to more, but please don't call it "mint condition" when it's clean, not mint. Sorry, but it's a pet peeve of mine, especially when you go to see a "mint condition" car from an ad and it's a 30 footer.

mrfrankmrfrank

I changed it. I meant no harm. I guess I didn't even know the definition of mint. I have no intentions of ever selling this car and didn't mean to mis-represent it. I've only owned three cars in my life, a 96' nissan sentra, a 97 ford taurus, and this one. Apparently my car knowledge isn't that extensive haha.

puma1552

iTrader: (1)

No worries, just a word that gets thrown around a lot. No doubt, you have a solid car to work with.

mrfrankmrfrank

The driver side subframe connector is installed. My mechanic added a nice metal brace to the front end tip of the spohn subframe connector. This adds additional support and welding locations to the front of the tube. This piece is probably not necessary, but I think it's nice to have more than one weld on the front.

The additional metal plate....

mrfrankmrfrank

mrfrankmrfrank

Well, this round of camaro updates is over. I have the car back from the shop. My mechanic did a great job on the subframe connectors. I'll add some pictures below of the right side completed. My mechanic felt that the spohn subframe didn't extended far enough to the front subframe to have a decent weld spot. He showed me how you could really only bead the tip of the pole. He joked that perhaps my car was too long.

So he decided to extend the length of the sfc using a slightly larger diameter pole, and then even went a step further and cut a flat spot into the extension to allow multiple welding points as well has allowing the sfc to fully weld to the front subframe.








I have a list of smaller things I am going to do to the car before it ends up back at the shop. I am going to work on the rust in the rocker boxes some more. Then I'm going to try and find a tutorial on how to polish the front turn signals / running lights as they are completely clouded. I found out I can get 2-way keyless entry / alarm installed for $250 so that is great. The car is going to get an alignment this weekend I think.

The next shop-worthy item on my list is to purchase a replacement bumper impact bar and have my mechanic replace my existing rusty one.

Today I also found out that my fears over my volts gauge falling down to 6 or so volts upon idol are a result of a bad gauge in my dash. For months now I'd get to a stop light and see my gauge drop down and surge. I kept thinking my alternator was dead or that I was having severe electrical issues. My mechanic went for a drive with me today, saw the gauge, made me pull over, and threw a multimeter on various parts of the engine and determined everything is fine... just my gauge sucks... So maybe a bad ground in the dash somewhere.... or the gauge needs to be replaced..

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

Looks like your mechanic knows what he is doing. That was really cool of him to make modifications in order for it to be right.

Have you replaced any of the front steering/suspension parts on the car yet? If not I would hold off on the alignment until that is done. With 20+ year old parts, they are going to need to be replaced soon and you will just need another alignment then.

mrfrankmrfrank

He really does do great work. He takes his time and goes the extra distance on everything that might need it. As for the steering / suspension parts... I bought the car in 2007 and I cannot remember if the seller told me about the suspension or not. I know he added some nice aftermarket suspension components in the rear. I'll have to ask my mechanic if he noticed if I needed anything replaced in the front end. I'm thinking it's unlikely that all of the front suspension components are original. Thanks for the tip.

mrfrankmrfrank

I went to test my TPS voltage and found that it was only at .37 volts. I went to adjust to .54 and ended up snapping the head off of the bottom bolt. So now I see that I am left with one of two choices... re-tap the screw size to 10-32 and purchase 10-32 bolts, or purchase an entirely new TPS just to get the free screws that come with it. decisions decisions.... haha

mrfrankmrfrank

I have also been trying to chase why my car hasn't seemed to have had as much horse power lately. After reading through a few threads I can see that my fuel pressure is far, far too low. When I bought the car, it was always around 40 psi.. as best I can remember.... Lately the fuel pressure has been around 35 psi... it might hit 40 when I step on the gas... This car has two fuel pumps for increased flow and an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (both installed by previous owner). I wonder if it is either.... clogged fuel filter... the pressure regulator needs adjusting.... or I have a vacuum leak which is causing the pressure regulator to act up... From what I can tell given the supercharger... I should be aiming for 50psi ?

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

Stock TPI should be around 45psi, with a supercharger I would guess you should be at or around 50 psi, although I am not a forced induction expert. Do you have an AFPR? If so crank that thing up, if not you might want to look into one, they are not that expensive. I have the Holley one and really like the easy to turn top. Low pressure could be so many things, a fuel filter would be an easy fix, if for no other reason than piece of mind.

mrfrankmrfrank

I cranked my afpr to full this morning and the pressure only gets to 38 psi... I'm gonna have to investigate the reason for my low pressure. I'll probably start with the fuel filter.