After waiting 16 or so years.... I was finally able to buy one to call my own. It's an '87, with over 91k, 305TPI, T-Tops, power windows/locks, rear discs.... I did not see the RPO sticker in the center console... I will try to visit one of the Chevrolet dealers that I interact with and see if they can print off a VIS report w/ the VIN...

Battery tray is rotted, I may relocate the battery to the rear.. gotta see what the options out there are.. and heater core needs to be replaced along with a bunch of other small items. Car has the common off-idle response/stumble/mis-fire....

Enjoy!

 

More pix...

 

Welcome to the site

 

Congrats and welcome! Even though the interior needs some TLC, you are ahead of the game since everything visible seems correct to the car (stereo, seats, steering wheel etc). If you want the car to remain stock looking just elbow grease is needed. If you change things out, I highly recommend you keep the original parts for when you someday sell the car to add to it's value. These parts are both scarce as well as expensive; even in the used market.

 

Looks to me like you have yourself a fully loaded I-ROC with the exception of the 350...

Its definitely a nice little project.

Check the rear compartment for the RPO codes you can usually find them there if not in the center console...

 

Thanks guys! She is definitely a project, but she appears to be all there. Even the entire AC system is intact. Many cars I've looked at have had the AC compressor, lines and even the dryer removed. I plan on doing small mods, i.e. gauges, maybe a T56 in the future, but other than that, I like the way the car is.

 

Got to work on the IROC a little over the last few weeks.

Got the following completed:
- replaced water pump
- changed oil to Penzoil Platinum 10w-30 w/ larger Wix filter
- replaced plugs w/ AC Delco platinums
- new belts, except power steering belt
- new alternator (thought it was on it's way out due to squealing, belt was a pinch too lose - at least I have a new alternator that I know will charge)
- new fuse for Courtesy circuit, power locks, interior lamps and power mirrors now work
- repaired stuck water temp gauge

Engine starts a lot better but still has a hesitation when in gear under light throttle applications, once you stomp it, it clears up a lot

To Do list:
- address hesistation, check fuel pressure @ rail, replace fuel pressure regulator and install Bosch reman injectors as PM
- replace transmission fluid and filter
- replace transmission tail seal
- replace rear end oil
- lube power lock actuators (do not slide enough to actually lock/unlock)
- lube window regulator assemblies
- change brake fluid
- check AC system for leaks
- tranmission mount (bought an Energy Suspension mount @ Advance Auto)
- plenty of other things...

 

Sounds like you have a nice project going on. Iroc's are sweet for sure.

 

Looks like you got a good car to start with! With these cars, that seems to be half the battle. It sounds like you're tackling all the important stuff right away. If it were mine, I think I'd pay for a complete interior detailing. I think it would be really worth the money.

 

Thanks Guys! The more I dig into the car, the more I find out that it is indeed a pretty decently optioned car. I was tickled to find out that once I replaced the "Courtesy circuit" fuse, everything else in the interior that wasn't working now works. The horn works, I removed the gauge covering and tried to clean it up a bit and polish the clear lense. The temp gauge peaks out and gets stuck @ the top and the tachometer works, but doesn't display correctly.

I am going to beef up the wiring to the battery, alternator and grounds. I am also a detailer, so tackling the interior will be in the spring when it gets warmer. Carpet needs to come out obviously. My plan for the dash pad and door trim panels is to cover them in a material like Alcantera. I think the dash pad would look incredible in a gray/dark gray material....

michalski detailing dot com

 

Nice IROC-Z. Got one tip tho. The temp gauge gets physically stuck in the top of the bezel when it jumps to max as youre cranking. The gauge has lost resistance as they all do with age. Nothing you can really do besides try to bend the gauge carefully towards the face so it doesnt get stuck or replace with a new one (if you can find one)

Hope this helps!

 

Good tip, Thank You!

 

I replaced the front swaybar endlinks today. They were well rusted, so I ended up cutting them off...

 

Great start to your project!

 

Congrats on the soon to be sweet ride! Just needs a little work. Welcome to the site. Cheers Bro...

 

Thanks!

 

That should be a nice looking ride when you're finished with it. Keep on posting so that we can follow your progress. Good luck with it.

 

I have been on the fence the last few days and wanted to bite the bullet and replace the fuel pressure regulator diaphram and replace the injectors with reman'd replacements. I was thinking about going with Fuel Injector Connection as they are local, "somewhat", neighboring state. Called them and tried to reach the sales office, went to voicemail so I aborted. For fun I called SouthBay Injectors as they have a good rep here, and was able to reach a representative and reached Julie. She was really nice, no problems asking questions, she gave me unbiased opinions on injector options.

I ended up opting for the set of Bosch III 19lb injectors encased in the gray body and a replacement diaphram.

 

Injectors and fuel pressure regulator are in from SouthBay... now to find some get and git 'r' done!

 

Tore into the intake to replace the injectors.... With help from a forum member. Injectors and everything in there appears to be original. I plan on replacing the original fuel rail with one from an '89 to elliminate the "cold start injector".

 

you may or may not run into a cold start issue without that injector. good looking build and I am subscribing

 

I plan on eventually sourcing an update with the 89+ 305 tune.

 

I sourced my 89+ fuel rail. It has a golden/yellow film color in the inside (had some old gas still in the system). I was at a loss as to how to best clean it prior to re-assembly. I had a neighbor recommend me trying some Purple Power, and letting it sit in there for a bit. So far it appears to be working VERY well. I thought that the varnish would be a nightmare to clean up, but it's clearing up really well. Here are some photos of the inside of the fuel pressure regulator (only wiped the inside with a paper shop towel), the inside of one of the rails that were actually on my car, and the other rail is the 89+ (prior to any cleaning). I will try to post a pic of the same rail post-cleaning for reference.

 

Cool car!

 

 

I've used "Purple Power" to clean out the gas tank in an old Corvette I had. Seemed to work great.

 

If/when I drop my tank I will do the same.

 

Some pics of the donor rail after having some Purple Power sit in it for just over a 24hr period. Still some stuck on there, but 95% better if not more.

 

Working on straightening the runners of dents/dings.... I put the driver's side runner in the freezer after some water into the runners that needed work. I wish I took photos of the prior area that I wanted straightened, but it made a difference. Took some pictures focusing on the areas that need more love.

 

Got the fuel rail on tonight with the replacement injectors. I primed the fuel system and no leaks (so far).. Nice spray from the valve on the rail when depressed... Slowly getting there

 

Got the car running.
- new injectors
- new AC Delco TPS
- new AC Delco IAC
- new BWD MAT sensor
- SouthBay Bosch III 19lb injectors
- 89+ runners, plenum, new EPROM by Brian from Tuned Performance
- Throttlebody coolant bypass mod

Upon cold start up (after sitting overnight), the initial start is very labored, i.e. it is very rough and usually stalls after it fires resulting in me having to turn it over again. It will run rough and stumble but progressively smooth out as the engine comes up to temp.

Recently it has been stalling while at idle and in gear (stop light) or after it has sat idle for a few minutes (out of gear).

Intermittent Code 44 (only code that ever registers). After some reading last night, for giggles I unplugged the MAF ONLY, and proceeded to start the car to see if it would stumble, etc.... Fired up like a new born. I did get a SES, but I am assuming it's the MAF code.

Just drove it around the block... Car runs FANTASTIC, like a new car. Smooth linear throttle response, no slight hesistation/bogging under load.

Is it safe to say I need a replacement MAF?

 

Changed the oil again, trans filter (Wix) and fluid and the rear transmission mount (Energy Suspension). Made a huge difference with the trans mount. No more thunk/clunk.

 

Got back from OH for business... and I was able to score a dash pad cover from a local yard... AND had the Delco radio with the EQ repaired. I had the on/off switch replaced, the circuit board resoldered, an aux input wired in AND.... RCA's outputs installed for separate front and rear signal before the internal amp.... The sound quality is SUPER clean and having the aux input is fantastic. This OE radio is actually a Really nice unit.

I know need to repair the power antenna mast. The antenna went up but won't come down. And the motor is constantly running. I pulled the interior accessory fuse to keep it quiet for now.

 

Like the ride IROCgiraffe. Keep us posted.

 

Thanks! Trying to keep it up to date

 

I love these types of threads. Thanks for sharing. Post some pics when you get time. Would like to see before and after pics of the interior

Also whats the story on the cars history? Who did you buy it from and if you don't mind saying...what did you pay?

 

Anytime I make updates/changes worth pics I will try to post them.

As far as the history on the car, the person I bought it from stated that his mother purchased the car 2nd hand in Maryland back in '88 with 14,xxx miles. The car was registered in SC back in '09. Car now has over 93,xxx miles.

I purchased the car at a steal. Strong sub $2k. Granted it was risky purchasing a car that has sat for a LONG time, but so far it's proving to be Very solid.

I love this car. I hope to never part with it

 

Replaced the fuel filter with an AC Delco unit, took it out for a drive and she drove great. Got home, cut it off and when I went to re-start it after a few minutes and it re-fired perfectly. As soon as I applied the throttle it stalled out. Re-fired it and it started, but labored. Again, as soon as I applied the throttle, it stalled.

From all of my readings on the board and replacing a good amount of parts, seems the fuel pump is on it's way out. Ordered one from eBay today NEW AC DELCO FUEL PUMP WITH INSTALLATION KIT EP241

 

Ohm injectors cold and hot. I started having a laboring problem, I would romp down on mine after driving her for 20+ minutes and it would spit and sputter and not climb above 3k RPM. Noticed that alternator wasn't turning but about 13 at idle, and fall off when I put my foot in her. After about 20 mins of driving, the alternator would get hot, break down and quit, then I couldn't get enough juice to the fuel pump/coil. Fought it for awhile thinking it was a fuel pump because the fuel pressure would drop. Just was the alternator not supplying enough juice..

 

Thought about the injectors initially, which is why I replaced them with a complete set of Bosch III's from SouthBay. Strangely the injectors ohmed fine... 16-17 ohyms. The injectors in the car were original, so I suspect the fuel pump is original as well.... Either way, I think of replacing the fuel pump as "peace of mind" knowing that it has been addressed when I take it for a long trip. I also replaced the alternator as the bearing(s) were failing.

 

Good Good, sounds like you are on the right path and well on your way. Best of luck..

 

Fuel pump came in, just as described! Now to find the time and cooler weather to do the swap.

 

Took it out for a drive tonight as the temps have dropped A LOT compared to recent weeks. Car drove GREAT. No SES lamp illumination. '89 MAF appears to be working just fine. Things are looking up!

- On the short list: replace the fuel pump (one listed in the prior post) and replace the starter with this one High Torque Mini Starter from rarelelctrical.com

 

Dang im tired of these people they get an iroc and have to note and Post every freaking detail Plus hes from sc really come on. congrats on the score. Had to mess with ya coming along nice. I dont envy you on the fuel pump issue.

 

I know Right???

Nice to hear from another local (at least someone else from SC)

 

Must say though you stick with it and finish it out it will be beautiful Reminds me of a girl I dated in high school her dad had an 89 350 car but same color it wasnt a gem when he got it but it was flawless when he finished it.

 

Hey IrocGiraffe,

I hope I didn't steer you wrong on a starter. I like mine and am glad to see someone else trying one too!

 

Hehe... no worries. Fortunately this car is not my daily. It sounds promosing and the other forum member posted that they haven't had any issues for a few years is re-assuring.

 

Looks like you're making good progress. Fellow S.C. IROC owner here. Who did your aux input on your radio for you? Show picture if possible.

 

Here are some pictures of my actual radio taken by Kurt Decker, the person that completed repairs/mods. He is in Columbus, OH