I appreciate the input.
ill get the moog coils. The bilsteins are a little to much $ for my college budget and im not sure what qa1 is...

 

Got the shocks and springs out working on the rest tomorrow.





Also im going to get these shocks and springs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271297941751
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321235514379

 

You dont even need to swap the proportioning valve, All you really need to swap is the spring in the front of the prop valve. I have an 88 and got a real good deal on a prop valve from a 92 ($5) which has different size and thread brake lines so all I did was put the front spring from the 92 valve into my 88 valve and my rear disks work great.

why would it take work to make fit? If it is a 700r4 it is externally no different than the 700r4 that would have come in the car.


also, I wouldnt really recommend those variable rate springs, generally springs like that are designed for hauling weight as they get stiffer as they compress, I imagine that could make a performance vehicle handle strangely.

 

Ill try the spring trick, and i found a good deal on a camaro tranny for $150. I should have it by friday.

 

that tranny from the k5 blazer is 100% fine to put in your car, it is identical to the ones that came in the cars, you just need to put a different tailshaft housing on it, you should be able to use the one on your old tranny.

right now it is just set up to be bolted to a 4x4 transfer case

 

excessive your saying if you swap the springs you can run a disk break rear even though you had a drum before?

 

I dont have an old tranny but ive read the input and output shafts are different lengths.

 

yes, the spring in your proportioning valve is what controls the flow of the fluid. The spring applies pressure to a piston inside the valve. The stiffness of the spring controls how much fluid pressure is required to open the valve.

Remember the proportioning valve is "backwards" the front spring and piston controls the rear brakes. If you can get your hands on a front spring from a disk/disk proportioning valve you can put it into your proportioning valve.

 

the output shaft is a different length, not the input shaft. Sorry, I assumed that you had a bad tranny as a parts donner, you would need the output shaft and tail shaft housing off of a 2wd tranny

 

thanks for the lesson

 

sarcasm?

if so, i was just trying to explain to him why it can be as simple as changing the spring, since the common practice is to swap the whole valve; which, in my opinion and experience is, not necessary.

 

no man not at all im not an a** lol seriously thank you for the lesson though

 

Just gotta take the e brake cables out then the rear end will be out



next ill be taking out the gas tank cleaning it then putting a new pump in. I bought a bunch of suspension upgrades as well, I hope to impress you guys.

 

Finally got the rear end out....

old ten bolt



Finally gone "now we have so much more room for activities!!!"
ie the fuel tank

 

Yep, now you just need to drop the exhaust and the fuel tank will almost fall out....

 

Yup came out nice and easy



I think im going to trash all of the (stock?) exhaust but the y pipe. Is there anything i should keep?

 

If it were my car, I'd replace the entire exhaust. Headers (you're choice, there are countless threads on here about the different choices) custom y pipe (if you choose headers that don't come with one) high flow cat (i used magnaflow on my last camaro) and a good cat-back. On my last camaro, I used headman headers, and a flowmaster 3" system, but there is talk on here that it doesn't flow very good.

 

Definitely going to get some shorties. Then 3in pipping. Not sure about much otherwise but i have some time to decide.

 

Cleaned out the gas tank which had ancient gasoline. Used purple power and water while scrubbing it out. Then after getting all the dirt and degreaser out I cont. to clean the inside with WD-40. Then I coated the inside and outside with WD-40.



There's no rust but should I paint the tank? If so, with what type of paint?

 

I 2nd that, good lesson...will try this when I do my big brake conversion

 

personally I would probably use some sort of rubberized undercoating because it is more resistant to rock chips and things like that

 

How much access were you able to gain into the inside of the tank to clean it... My thought to clean it would be to just fill the entire tank with Purple Power (or a high concentration mixed with water) to thoroughly clean it via soaking a few days...

 

Ok ill buy some and paint it tomorrow


I could get forearm deep, it didnt need much scrubbing it was mostly just floating dirt. I did get the hose in there and gave it a mini pressure wash with purple power in there as well.

 

If you go to paint the tank, you will need to get the WD-40 off. It will cause you a lot of fish-eyes in the paint, as well as a lot of adhesion problems. I'd recommend using a good degreaser until your rags come out clean.

 

Yup I purple powered it.



Only got one coat on bc it started to rain

 

Well i hooked up the fuel pump assembly today and the sending unit sparked and started smoking.... Glad i tested it before adding putting it in the tank..... Anyways ordered a new one today ill post pictures when it's all installed.

 

Did a lot of wire brushing and some painting today




I think im going to paint the diff cover to match the sway bar.

 

Ok a lot happened today:
-Cleaned all the fuel lines
-Installed new sending unit
-Installed AC delco pump and fuel filter
-Put fuel tank in and all new rubber lines
-New e-brake cables
-New Moog Springs
-New KYB shocks
-New performance trailing arms and panhard bar
-Changed gear oil and added new felpro gasket
-Painted diff cover to match the sway bar.





Sway bar and energy suspension kit tomorrow!!

 

looks amazing!

 

Thanks the sway bar should complement the diff cover nicely. You'll see hopefully tomorrow.

 

Finished up the rear suspension
Energy suspension sway bar kit. Didnt fit right but whatever...




Also got the correct transmission today (1988)
Any advise on how to clean and paint these thoroughly? Also is there a way to clean the internals at all while i do a tranny flush?

 

When I did the 700 in my '91, I used simple green and scotchbrite pads to clean the case. It took a while and a lot of scrubbing, but eventually it all came clean. Then I taped up all of the openings and seals, and using a dremel with a sanding attachment, I smoothed it all out to get rid of the casting flash. As for paint, I went with the 500 degree engine primer and paint.
When you ask about cleaning the internals, is there something in particular that you wondering about? I would recommend that you take off the pan to see how much clutch material you have in the pan, and consider installing a shift kit, corvette servo, and possibly the accumulator springs if you are feeling spunky. Oh, don't forget to flush the trans cooler too.

 

I will definitely put your cleaning an painting technique to use.
As for the tranny upgrades. Is this something a person who has never done anything more than a tranny flush can do?

 

Installing a shift kit isn't too difficult as long as you follow the directions. Installing the corvette servo isn't bad either. Changing out the accumulators springs can be tricky, but if you install the shift kit, everything you need to remove will already be out. I can walk you through it if you would like. Even if you don't take the valvebody off, all you do is take the pan off and change the filter, you should be able to see how much clutch material is in the bottom of the pan.

 

That would make an awesome how to video. Ill check youtube and see if its something i feel confident to do.
Thanks for your input!

 

Painted calipers, platinum brakes, and new rotors. (All 1le)
Can see my new shocks, springs, panhard, swaybar bushing, and trailing arms from here.

 

Quick update.
4wheel disc master cylinder and proportion valve are in
and i just ordered the 1aauto complete front suspension steering setup.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/350895502845...84.m1439.l2649

Also order kyb struts today

There will be some more process pics soon.

 

Great thread! I'm thoroughly enjoying your work and pics. Good Luck and I bet it will turn out great.

 

Thanks man i love the positive feedback!! Motivates me more and more.

 

Whole front end is out. Everything will be reconditioned or replaced like usual.



All new steering from A1 auto

 

how much did the new steering linkage run you if i may ask?

lookin good by the way

 

It was a complete setup by 1a auto and it came with all 12 pieces for $150
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350895502845...84.m1439.l2649

Did you mean center link?
And thank you!!

 

well damn, nice invesment, i may have to buy that too, and your coming along FAST i have some catching up to do ahaha

 

Yea luckily my gf supports this build. I did just blow my last paycheck on the front end suspension and steering. Hopefully she doesnt expect a christmas present lol.

 

Put it back in the box and put her name on it, then she can help you install it. A win for both of you

 

Hahahaha she didnt like your idea but i did lol

 

lmfao thats great! wish mine suported my build like that, your a luckkyyy man

 

She even got me a tool box for my bday and shes getting me a work bench for christmas.

Anyways got my new kyb struts in today and moog springs.
Waiting on my energy suspension bushings for the lower control arms.
Ill have pictures of everything back together soon.
Tomorrow will be a long day of wire brushing.... like usual

 

what kinda paint did you use on the rear? that came out really nice, i may have to copy that lol

 

VHT roll cage paint for the rear and engine enamel for the cover.
The vht paint is very good paint. Only took a can and a half.
Got mine at advanced auto parts.