SirReveller

iTrader: (4)

Oh goddamn! What a PITA.
You know- as I get older I find if you expect incompetence from the get-go, you’re never disappointed...

RKeats

There was a pond of gas around the car when the tow truck came. Driver scraped the exhaust tips along the pavement (sweet) as he loaded the car up, and man if that had of sparked ...

RKeats

Turns out that the actual body of the injector was somehow cracked, so I called Southbay up and he sent one out instantly without any hassle or charges. Awesome customer service! I should have it in the next few days, but unfortunately probably not in time for the beautiful weather and car shows this weekend Gonna get that YJ on the road though and hopefully enjoy some cruising though.

SirReveller

iTrader: (4)

Ahhh - did you go for the Delphis or the Bosch IIIs?

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

Gotta wonder about quality control, when a cracked leaking injector is shipped to a customer.

I installed two sets of reman injectors. I DO NOT RECALL WHO I BOUGHT THEM FROM. One set in a V6 third Gen F body, and they were perfect! Idled smooth as glass.

The second set, from RockAuto, in one of my 2, 1996 Impala SS's. One injector was wide open and another was leaking at the spray tip, they ruined a Catalytic Converter, in minutes! I replaced those w/ a set of new Delco injectors, which were perfect. Rock refunded the price I paid for the injectors, but declined responsibility for the ruined cat.

I also installed a set of new Standard Brands injectors in a 1986 Corvette..........one was defective, right off the bat.

IMO Parts quality has deteriorated, since I started in the Auto Repair Business, in 1973.

RKeats

I went with the Bosch ones. Had em in the GTA and they seemed to perform pretty well


There's a part of me that thinks the shop may have damaged it on install. When I drove the car home, there were no smells or anything but the performance was slightly lacking, just enough for me to catch on. Then when I went to drive it again, that's when it finally called it quits. Either got sent out with a veeeery slight leak, or the shop did it. Either way, Southbay sent me a new one quickly without a hassle so they'll keep my business!

SirReveller

iTrader: (4)

Ah yah I figured. That’s what I got in there too.

There’s a bunch of threads on the “need” to tune the Bosch IIIs but I could never establish if this was really necessary..

RKeats

I'll find out when I get the car back. We're at the end of Friday so I'll have to wait until likely mid next week

SirReveller

iTrader: (4)

Yah shouldn’t be an issue. Just something to check out down the road if ya want.

BTW this hassle will just make it more awesome once she’s up and running shortly !

RKeats

Let's hope. I should have it back in the next couple days, then we'll see what wants to break next

RKeats

No updates on the car yet. Just been thinking about what kind of route I want to take with it in terms of appearance. I don't need much more than basic performance as it's just a casual driver. I still have my Mustang, and I work for a place that allows me to take exotic cars out at my leisure, so I can get my go-fast fix when I need it I've always been a fan of stock appearances, but with a bit more attitude. So for now, I'd like to lower the car about an inch, remove the tint, and replace the tired front nose. Next year, assuming I haven't run in to any expensive issues of course, I plan on picking up either a set of these Torque Thrusts in 17's, or a set of the Hawks 17in GTA's. There's also a member on here (don't remember his name) who has a very subtle GFX package that goes on to the factory GFX. Essentially small dark grey ground spoilers that just make the car look a bit wider at the bottom. I'll try to find a pic and add it in. There's also a rear spoiler that's essentially the stock one, but taller, and I love the look. I think it only looks right once the car has the right stance though, so that'll also be later on.

I also got some updates from the guy who bought my GTA. Already replaced the dented panels, rebuilt the motor, and swapped in a 4th gen 3.73 from an LS Camaro. Not a fan of the 4th gen rears in these cars, but with a 3.73 it probably boogies. Missing that car pretty badly, but after driving that YJ around all weekend, I don't think I made a bad choice by trading.

RKeats

Also, the floors don't have any rot or holes, just some flaking of the original paint. I'd like to get under there and clean them up before I start running in to actual rust issues. Anyone have any tips or suggestions on products?

RKeats

For those still following along, I just drove the car home from the shop. Bastards charged me full price again to replace the one injector, even though it was leaking when I first picked it up. Little frustrating but life goes on. Happy to report that the car drove great on the way home, and idles very well with no sign of stalling. I'm going to drive it home tonight and see how it does, hopefully we're finally in the clear so I can move on to other stuff!

SirReveller

iTrader: (4)

Congrats on gettin’ her out! Dude leave those stock gold iroc wheels on and save your $$! Against the black? With that color interior? Sick!

Also not to clutter up your thread but these don’t come along every day...
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/...ationFlag=true

RKeats

I am a big fan of them, but I want something justtttt a bit bigger. Also that TTA is pretty sweet, and super uncommon in our area. There's one for sale in Quebec that's driver quality for about 14k.

RKeats

Well, finally some good news. Drove the car for a solid 10 hours straight yesterday and didn't run in to a single issue. Gave the paint a good hand polish too, and it really brought some of the shine back. A member on here will likely be giving my car the full correction treatment, and that should have the original paint looking new again. I touched up the nose GFX and it changed the whole look of the car, now I just need to add the stripes! It needs an alignment, definitely a set of brakes, gas gauge doesn't work, and I can smell the valve cover gasket (probably the pass side.. yay) doing it's typical leak, but otherwise I'm very happy. The 2.77's NEED to go as this thing has 0 *****. Excellent fuel economy on the highway though.

On a side note, the amount of attention this car gets in comparison to the GTA is wild. Must just be because it's more iconic I guess. Either way though I'm happy.

RKeats

Also, I realized as I was driving down the highway that there's no way I'm only doing 80. Sure enough, 80 is actually 110. How do I go about fixing this? The trans that I had installed in my car is from a 350 GTA, which I assume had different gears.

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

It is nice to know when your rolling a buck-ten!

RKeats

At least I know it can do 120 comfortably! Not bad for a car that sat for years

SirReveller

iTrader: (4)

Looookin good!! Yeah ok the GTA 17” golds would look pretty killer too :P

RKeats

Someone in Rexdale has a black ROC with 17in black T/A's and man does it ever look good. I think the golds would be perfect on my car with the tan interior and stripes

RKeats

Been driving the car a ton and the only new issue I've noticed is a sound coming from the rear end. It's not a grind or a clunk, more of a whirring sound, and I only seem to hear it through the passenger window. I know the rear brakes are totally dead, so maybe the passenger side is rubbing or something? Or maybe a bearing? Even if it's the rear end itself, I'm not too upset. All the more reason to throw those 2.77's off a cliff and get something that will actually let the car accelerate

RKeats

Got a chance to check out the rear end noise, and it ended up just being the rear brakes. Basically down to metal on metal, so I ordered a set of rears. Otherwise, I've put about 1000km and so far haven't had any new issues. Here's a list of what I'll be tackling over the next few weeks;

- Fuel gauge not working, stuck at max full
- Pass side valve cover is starting to leak
- Hard start when cold, cranks for at least 5 seconds before starting
- Hood struts
- Tint needs to go. It's dark and gloomy inside and impossible to see out of at night. Anyone have any tips on getting it off without leaving residue?
- New radio install
- Sanding the minor surface rust off the floors and sealing them
- Hoping to find a replacement nose from a black car. This one's fine from 10ft, but pretty rough up close. It's also missing the stripe which bugs me

If anyone has any tips or thoughts on making easier / solving the above tasks, please chime in. Easier the better of course.

I've been having a ton of fun messing with this car though. It's already light years ahead of the GTA in terms of what needs to be done, so it helps keep me motivated. This car already looks good, drives well, and is probably going to prove to be pretty reliable, so I don't feel like I'm stuck miles down a deep hole. Still can't believe I paid $1500 for it too.

vinny R

It is a great feeling when you spend money on something and it exceeds your expectations! Especially when it seems like it is fun money anyways.

My quick fix for item # 3....switch your gas to non ethanol gas. Not sure in Canada if they add ethonal or not but if they do this cured my car of those long cold starts.

RKeats

It's an awesome relief! It's also the first time I've ever bought a car without hearing it run, or even trying to crank. I took the owners word on everything he said and sure enough, it was exactly as he said it would be. World needs more people like that. As for the ethanol, I only use 91 in any of my cars, which I don't think is 100% free but certainly has a low percentage. I'm not sure if there are any gas stations up here that are fully ethanol free, but if there are then I'll definitely give it a shot

Reddragon88gta

Got a trick for the removal of window tint, a clothes steamer worked great when I had to take my purple tint of the rear hatch. Get it nice and warm and just slowly pull...the heat helped take the glue off with the tint. Still had to give it a good cleaning but not nearly as messy as the time I took it off the side windows on my old 88’ Z24, that was a total mess with a lot of scraping the old glue off.

RKeats

What about the hatch? Will it do any damage to the defrost lines?

Reddragon88gta

That’s why I used the steamer, I didn’t want to have to wipe too hard on the defrost lines. The steamer really helped loosen the glue. I haven’t used the defrost on my car once it being a summer car but my experience without using heat on door windows was so messy with glue residue that I needed a razor scraper to clean it.

RKeats

Thanks for the suggestion! I'm going to give it a shot this weekend. I'll post some updates when I do

SirReveller

iTrader: (4)

The new oil sender fixed my long cranks on cold start like a charm- I believe it’s the circuit for the first turn of the key. My Where’s Waldo notes on it at the time...

BAD COLD START - FIXED
Check fuel injectors - nah; 22# Bosch IIIs in car look new (tho Bob said they didn't replace these so age still a question)
Replace fuel relay - no; can hear it. Can see SES light...but oil pressure kicks up as cranking..?? *Working* - o/w wouldn't start at all w/o relay working
Replace CTS - (no- was new)
Replace oil pressure switch - DONE

RKeats

I've done everything up to the oil pressure sensor. Was it a pretty easy switch?

RKeats

Took the car out to a local show last night and got a ton of compliments. The car has quite a few small dents on the driver side from being stored in a garage for so long (passenger side was tight against a wall), and naturally some of the Mustang guys I talk to had to point out every single one, but otherwise people were quite impressed with the car which is nice! The IROC gods did however bless me with a check engine light on my way home, which is luckily just a code 33 - MAF. The MAF in my car is used, and 30 years old, so I'm not surprised if it's on its way out. Can someone shed some light on whether or not my symptoms line up with a failing MAF, and if it's worth it to replace it now?

- Hard cold starts, but will always start.
- Sometimes the idle will fluctuate between about 550 to almost 1500, but will never stall and eventually evens out.
- In drive while stopped, the idle doesn't fluctuate but if you pay attention, you can hear that it isn't running perfectly. Feels almost like slight sputters, but never stalls, never backfires, and accelerates perfectly.

Thoughts?

Reddragon88gta

MAF can cause a lot of problems on these cars, they are pretty integral to the computers decisions. My original MAF was causing my car to dump extra fuel on warm restarts after sitting and heat soaking for a few hours but no code. The Firebird location on top of the radiator is not the greatest location. After replacing with a new non reman Delphi MAF that problem went away. One recommendation is stay away from the big parts stores MAF, I tried one of those first and it immediately threw a code. The best deal I could find on the Delphi was rockauto.

SirReveller

iTrader: (4)

I thought you read my thread?- I am a humble ‘master of emblems’. Nothing more. Lol
Yeah my general mechanic I’ve been using for ages right near work did it on a weekday no problem- it’s a pretty simple task; you shouldn’t have a problem.
*though I’ll note either the threads are F’d or they put it in too loose as it led to an oil leak 20odd months later (ie now) and it was just replaced.

RKeats

180 CAD is an excellent deal, thanks for the suggestion! Everywhere else seems to be asking closer to 300

RKeats

Hey at least you're not in there butchering everything! I work so damn much lately that it's hard to find time to do things myself. Living in a building certainly doesn't help, can't get too deep in a project without someone getting upset

chevypower91

Were was the show that you went to?

RKeats

I go to a few. That particular one is Dorval and the QEW in Oakville every Tuesday night. There's also one in Etobicoke at East Mall and Queensway every Saturday night and it's huge. Do you ever go to either?

RKeats

Took this picture exactly one year ago. Every car in this picture has since been sold Far left was my buddy's 91' GTA, with another buddy's 91' GTA, and my brother's 91' T/A, then my white GT/CS. Mustang looks the size of an SUV beside those cars haha. I would have brought my 91' GTA out there but I didn't trust it to make the 2 hour long drive. Anyways, nothing to say, just kind of a fun throwback pic

RKeats

On a different note. Do you guys think PDR could take care of these dents? It's tough to get a good picture, but it's a bunch of small dents, not just one long one. None have paint damage or any creases.

chevypower91

It has been years since I went to those 2 shows. I plan to attend to them this year as well as the one in Brampton on Hwy 7 and Gore rd on Wednesday nights and the Canadian tire in oakville on Friday nights,

Reddragon88gta

No problem, I did some research on them and that price couldn’t be touched. Also Delphi seems to make the best quality replacement for that part. Just be sure to disconnect the battery for a few minutes before installing the new one.

PDR could probably fix that easily and for not a lot of money, the key is the paint is not ripped and the dents are shallow. I had a PDR guy fix a bad dent on my wife’s CRV that I thought was hopeless and he got it nearly perfect for $90.

RKeats

There's a Friday night Oakville one? Which Canadian Tire?

chevypower91

Mississauga/Oakville
Mississauga Classic Car lub
Canadian Tire
2510 Hyde Park Gate (Dundas & 403).
6:00 pm - Dusk
Info: Ron Carter at 647 339-1926
Updated 2019

SirReveller

iTrader: (4)

Here we go. Looks pretty easy.
(I believe this dude was active on the site some years ago).

RKeats

Haven't touched the car in a few days. It's been way too hot outside to drive a black car with no A/C, plus I noticed the idle weirdness is starting to get a bit worse. I did order some hood struts and a new valve cover gasket though! I tried to order the gasket from Partsource and the kid at the desk must have had an IQ in the single digits, because when I told him the year of the car, he was blown away and just argued me that most parts stores don't carry parts for a car that old. Frustrating, but I just ordered from Amazon instead.

chevypower91

That sucks about the kid at partsource. That's the problem, some of these kid have no clue on what they are doing behind the counter.

RKeats

It's ridiculous. Who interviews someone like that and decides that they're a good fit for the job?? Also, you should go to the Queensway and East Mall show on Saturday night. I'm bringing a car from work this time, but it would still be cool to meet up!

SirReveller

iTrader: (4)

Flipping through the service manual this morning and noticed Chevy specifically called the oil pressure switch (ie sender) a “/fuel pump switch”. Really clarifies the additional function on start-up!

RKeats

I'll definitely be giving that a swap. Started the car up on the weekend and it cranked for a solid 6 seconds before firing, and who knows how much life is left in the starter