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So I've owned a black on black '89 Formula 350 since about 2002. I bought the car sight unseen from ebay with a 50ft repaint job, crappy blue Auto Zone wire loom, and tachy braided hose covers. It does have a rebuild .030 over 350 with pretty low miles since the rebuild, and a built 700r4. Despite never really being satisfied with its overall condition, I've been completely attached with this car since I've had it, but never got around to doing much with it. Pretty much I bolted on a set of SLP headers, a Magnaflow catback, deleted the Emissions and AC and whipped out some 13 sec runs with it. Since then the rear axle died (cones worn into case) and the car sat in storage while other priorities caused it to get back burnered.
10 years in storage has been rough on it. Unbeknownst to me, the garage roof was leaking and the floors were sweating pretty bad where it was stored. When I finally pulled it out and looked it over, the rust free car I had parked there had rusted through from the inside out, and pretty much is unsavable. I debated trying to cut it up weld it back together, but the more I looked at it, the more unfeasible it seemed. There's just not much there to save despite its outward appearance.
So, out comes the entire drive train. I was getting tired of black anyway. It's a pita to keep clean and needed waxed or detail sprayed every time it was washed to look presentable. And then looked covered in dust an hour later.
Last edited by Anti-Venom; 02-21-2017 at 06:56 AM.
Well after a long story of difficulties searching for another car to build, last weekend I drove 15hrs round trip from Central IL to Pontiac MI to pick up my new bird. She's a Maui Blue '90 Formula 350 roller with a '91-92 nose.
Going to focus on handling with this build. I would like to try out some open track events, maybe some auto crosses. With that in mind, the engine will remain mostly stock with bolt ons for now. I would like to bolt on a Canton pan for oil control, Some Bilsteins, and upgrade the brakes and the rest of the suspension.
Plans are to re-gasket, clean up, and repaint the motor, swap in a T56 and hopefully get it out to some events this year. She's a little rougher than what the seller portrayed but overall very savable with minimal rust.
I can't decide if I should put my '89s nose on it when it gets repainted, or leave the 91-2 nose on it. The later nose has been growing on me. But I also bugs me that it's not correct.
Last edited by Anti-Venom; 02-21-2017 at 07:03 AM.
I'm glad to see you finally got the car. It looks like on your black car that the rust started at the self tapping screw for the inner splash guard or at the seam not to far from it. My 88' did the same thing and was far worse than I thought. It sucks because if they made patch panels for all these common rust spots it would be an easy fix. But it seems like there isn't a whole lot as far as patch panels for 3rd gens at the moment. I'm looking forward to seeing the new car out and about
Thanks guys, I'm going to try to make a big push to get it out for the gathering, but time is going to be limited with work being pretty busy at the moment. Got lucky and caught a rain day yesterday and was able to get the engine on the stand, degrease it, wire brush it and spray a little paint on it. Even worked on the engine bay a little bit.
The rust on the strut towers is way worse from underneath. The entire strut tower cap is pretty much gone on both sides. As are the floor pans, rear inner fender wells, undersides of the doors, bottom of the spare tire well, rear hatch panel...way too much metal replacement is needed on the black car to save it.
Last edited by Anti-Venom; 03-01-2017 at 06:29 AM.
I have to get the clutch pedal and hydraulics in the car. I'm looking for the factory bracket that holds the clutch reservoir btw if anyone has one.
Have to repaint the sub frame.
Need to replace the oil cooler lines, they're rusted out and leaking bad.
I'm pulling the intake to clean it up, and the PO installed the plenum gaskets wrong.
Still need to buy a Canton pan and two piece timing cover.
Edelbrock water pump because after sitting as long as this has, the wp on it is probably a time bomb.
Last edited by Anti-Venom; 03-01-2017 at 06:52 AM.
I'm from Springfield, IL originally, and work daily in Pontiac, MI. I saw that car on Craigslist, and thought it was a steal. Glad it found a good home, and I look forward to following your progress. Maybe I'll get a chance to see it at a Central Illinois show at some point.
Small update. Haven't had a day off work in over a month so progress has been slow. I did manage to get a good afternoon in where I was able to get the new pan and front cover on.
Pan is the 15-244T road race Canton pan for one piece seal, and pickup for the stock oil pump is part # 20-010 for reference. Canton fails to mention that they don't include the plug for the oil level sender hole. So I'll have to order that. I couldn't resist doing a little dress up and replaced the front cover and added some stainless bolts/studs. It almost feels wrong adding shiny bits to a nearly stock motor but it's looking a ton better compared to when I pulled it. Motor looks pretty clean internally with no visible issues. It's always been serviced religiously with Mobil 1.
Last edited by Anti-Venom; 03-21-2017 at 10:32 PM.
You wouldnt happen to have any documentation on it would you? I'm curious what all functionality it has. The car still has a key fob for it. Albeit in rough shape. The horn for it is missing though.
I have the dealer sales brochure, seen in the lower left of this photo. It talks a little about the system, but not how to operate it.
The remote was missing from my system when I bought the car. I bought a shaggy used one off of ebay. Restoring it is one of the many little projects I have to do yet. It won't work, of course, but I'd still like to have it for display.
Hawks makes them now, I just saw they posted them on Facebook as available
I actually just placed an order for the Hawks lines last Thursday. Getting real close to being able to start putting the motor in.
Originally Posted by Linson
Too bad you live so far away. I have an L98 with some good stuff on (and in) it. and its only got 7k miles on the build. I'm doing an LS swap.
This motor is actually a .030 rebuild with pretty low miles on it. You wouldn't know it by looking at it though, it was rebuilt a long time ago, just sat a long time.
You've got a pretty sharp car there yourself. Wish my paint was in as good of shape as yours!
Last edited by Anti-Venom; 04-03-2017 at 05:26 AM.
I have the dealer sales brochure, seen in the lower left of this photo. It talks a little about the system, but
The remote was missing from my system when I bought the car. I bought a shaggy used one off of ebay. Restoring it is one of the many little projects I have to do yet. It won't work, of course, but I'd still like to have it for display.
I'm waiting to see if mine works at all before pulling it. Print is gone from the buttons, but it looks like it may the into the door locks.
Nose and headlights are off of the '89 today. Still undecided if I want to put the correct nose on the '90.
The '91 nose conversion was pretty poorly done. The under valence was screwed on with self tappers.
Slow process with having very little free time but the engine and trans are now in. Still need to get the headers and exhaust in and add some fluids. That will hopefully happen next weekend.
I ran into a couple small issues. One, the starter won't engage and I don't hear the fuel pump. Security light is going out when I turn the key though. Oh, and I did jumper the neutral safety wires.
Second, The clutch pedal is all the way on the floor almost. Running 4th Gen pedals and a pre-bled master/slave. I'm curious if the fork is not on the throw out correctly?
It is a nice car. I look forward to seeing it in Springfield one of these days.
It's a 50 footer. Lol! You should try to make the IL Fbodies meet next year in Springfield.
Got a little bit done this weekend. Figured out that the no crank issue was in fact the alarm system, so it got yanked. I was pretty happy that's all it was. Looking at some of the wiring in this car, that had the potential of being a can of worms. The under dash looks way better cleaned up without all that mess now. Still unconfirmed if the fuel pump is running or not. It's hard telling how long this car has sat.
Just have to run my P/N wires to the clutch switch and then the covers can go back on.
Still not sure why I have no clutch pedal. I didn't get around to taking the slave back off.
The SLP headers fit great in the black car, but seem to interfere with the steering shaft and brake lines in the blue car. I folded for the night on that note. The drivers engine mount has to come loose to jack the motor to get it in and out, and I'll have to take it back out, move the lines, and dimple the primary to clearance it for the steering shaft. I already had to drill the bolts out of the collector tonight.
Anti-Venom/Dyno Dave: I also have one of these Goodwrench alarm deals. The remote is missing - either of you have a picture so I know what to shop for? tia
Anti-Venom/Dyno Dave: I also have one of these Goodwrench alarm deals. The remote is missing - either of you have a picture so I know what to shop for? tia
Well, motivation has been at an all time low. I've just had way too much on my plate here lately. Car just needs a fuel pump and the clutch figured out to be running. Probably going to future proof a little and throw a Racetronix setup in there.
I did end up getting rid of the '89. I had to just rip it off like a Bandaid or else it was just going to continue needlessly taking up garage space. It was pretty hard to let it go. I've owned it now since 2002 and was pretty attached to it. I didn't have time or energy to part it, and couldn't get any worthwhile offers to take it whole. I ended up trading it even out for a no title bass boat. Weird, I know. But I can clean up the title issue, give it a wet sand and buff, and at least make a couple grand back off of it pretty easily.
The Banshee nose has grown on me a lot and I decided to keep it. So to make the deal happen on the '89, I let the nose and headlights go with it.
Well hopefully the weather will get nicer here soon and I can find some new motivation.
I have a 91 Firebird parts car if you need any pieces for your front bumper. It's a base car with no ground effects. So if you wanted to complete the look I have the rear bumper also
I have a 91 Firebird parts car if you need any pieces for your front bumper. It's a base car with no ground effects. So if you wanted to complete the look I have the rear bumper also
I appreciate that. I am actually looking for a good condition air dam. The previous owner had ******* modified the original '90 piece to work.
I have a 91 Firebird parts car if you need any pieces for your front bumper. It's a base car with no ground effects. So if you wanted to complete the look I have the rear bumper also
Just got my Racetronix pump and hotwire kit. Lines are in pretty bad shape coming off of the sending unit though. Going to order a new one before I put the tank back in. The guage was pegged on full too and the tank only had about 4 gallons in it.
Had to install my Spohn PHB and replace the swaybar bushings and shocks anyway.
Finally got my sending unit from Rock Auto. Nice new shiny stuff that I'll never see again. So I had to take a picture lol!
The original sending unit was trashed. Lines were rotted, rubber goods were gelatenous, and the sender itself looked very sketch.
Last edited by Anti-Venom; 03-06-2018 at 06:30 AM.
Well, got a little bit more done last week. Had an issue getting the fuel pump to prime. Finally jumpered the relay and let it run for awile and eventually started getting pressure. Was a good victory to hear the engine fire in the new car for the first time.
Spent a little bit of time replacing the sway bar bushings yesterday. It's getting closer. I admit I've been avoiding messing with the lack of clutch issue.
Surprise! this was supposed to have been a newly rebuilt 9 bolt according to the seller. Nope it's a 10 bolt.
I need to get some new control arms. I sold my poly Metco's to buy some spherical ended ones and well...
Last edited by Anti-Venom; 07-14-2018 at 07:46 AM.
Well, I'm really getting tired of the car sitting on jack stands and not moving. Decided to make some time and finally get out and wire up the T56 today. Adulting sucks. (and I guess I procrastinate.)
I didn't have the pigtail for the clutch safety so I used some regular terminal ends. Ended up stretching out the ends so a 10 gauge wire would fit into a blue terminal for 14-16 gauge as it seemed to fit the best. Soldered and heat shrunk everything for good measure to make sure the sketchiness would hold. Seems to have worked out pretty good. I'm pretty OCD when it comes to wiring so it takes me forever. I also narrowed up some spades so they would fit the factory shifter plug so I wouldn't have to cut it up.
Car now starts without having to jumper anything, I have reverse lights, and the speedo wires are ran into the car awaiting my SGI-5 box that I ordered this morning. I'm going to hold off on the reverse lockout and see if it even bothers me before wiring it up. I don't seem to have any issues getting it into reverse as is. Now back to the garage to finish the cruise cancel on the clutch.
Last edited by Anti-Venom; 07-08-2018 at 01:14 PM.
Keep plugging away, waggoner car show is coming up!
I'm going to try and make a push to get it there this year. Have to get some new rubber under it and make sure the brakes are ok.
The clutch problem is going to be the main thing. I need to drop the trans and give everything a good look over. The disc is from Brake and Clutch I bought before they went under, and supposed to be good for 500hp. They seemed to be pretty aware of the issues with running a disc too thick, so I hope that's not an issue.
I might just order a Tick master first, it seems to me like the linkage seems too short and isn't allowing the pedal to come all the way up. I've strangely never seen anyone else have this issue. Of course nothing has been simple with this one.
I can't wait to get the bugs ironed out so I can
I started some surgery on the console lids. I have to cut out for the power window switch on the manual lid, and the manual's ashtray lid was broke so I switched out the one off of the auto. I need to get a new shifter boot and It should be good to go. Lucky for me I only had one cutting disk left for my Dremel and it shattered before I finished
Last edited by Anti-Venom; 07-14-2018 at 06:51 AM.
Oh, and an update on the bass boat I traded the black Formula for. I got the motor running on the boat. It ended up purring like a kitten and sounding bad ***. Mercury 150hp XR4 Blackmax motor. Removed the old carpet, took a flap disc to the lids to remove the old glue, gave it a wet sand and a buff, and came up with a clean title. Invested maybe a $150 bucks into it and came out smelling like a rose. I wish I could have kept more parts off of the '89, but I made way more back on this with a little elbow grease then I would have had parting out the black car. I do miss my '89 already.
Before picture where it was sitting when I picked it up.
Last edited by Anti-Venom; 07-14-2018 at 07:44 AM.
I decided to finally attempt to correct my clutch issue, the car is stupid close to being drivable again. I ended up ordering the Tilton adjustable master cylinder setup from Hawks. The one I originally ordered was a cheap generic setup from Rock Auto for a 95 Camaro. It seems to me like the rod is just too short. If I attempt to pull the pedal up, It won't budge, so I would assume it's topped out in it's travel. The pedal's so low that there's not enough travel to disengage the clutch before it hits the floor. The pedal doesn't even come up enough to touch the switch.
I would be curious to see what the rod length is on the correct genuine AC Delco master cylinder compared to the one I received. I don't know if I'm a victim of cheap non-fitting parts, or if there's something else to this. Knock on wood, the Tilton unit will be here Monday and I'll try to swap it out next weekend.
Well that was a mother without a second set of hands. Had to slightly message into place but the clutch now works! Turns out the Rock Auto master was garbage.
Got some Comp TAs mounted up and balance today too.
Car is back on the ground and rolled out of the garage for a short victory under its own power! Until the calipers locked up and it wouldn't go back into the garage. Eh, I'll still take it as a win.
02-20-2017, 07:24 PM
