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could indicate side to mount. I noticed white/pink on my left/right strut mounts. Pretty certain that was to identify which side they should go on to make things easy on the assembly line. Seen a few other similar markings around the car but haven't figured out what they are for.
They are blue on both sides of original WS6 and 1LE cars I've seen. Kind of thinking they may just been inspection mark done by the supplier. Whatever the reason, I just thought it would be fun to put back on.
Ah! Have to take a closer look next time I'm under there.
That is my intention as well as I replace items. Now to round up the paint! I ran across a place called inlinetube.com - they mention these paint markings and have it available. where are you sourcing yours?
Just noticed the date code on the brake hose. Guess my TTA 1LE brakes came from a fairly early car? (It was seriously wadded up and had low miles)
Test fit. I can say the 5spd tunnel seems to be a tad smaller in spots than the 700r4 tunnel even though it isn't. Still needs a few spots "massaged" to fit this monster. SLP had to do the same for a couple of things on the auto trans tunnel.
What looks like rust along the rocker panel is just brown southern clay/dirt. Very hard to remove in some places (like spotweld areas) without stripping the paint off.
I've tried everything I can think of, it's not a valid object, so I don't know how you're seeing it. I tried updating Chrome, using a different browser, I tried logging into outlook (since it's an outlook object), I tried opening the object in it's own window....
Which is only available if you have access to that source. I have a hotmail account, but it is a different address than that. I am assuming that is why DynoDave43 can see it and I can't
Every little thing you do is so detailed. Its amazing the work you put into this car. I think using the “cleaned up” old parts is much cooler than using modern stuff. Cant wait to see this finished.
DD43, The ports are fairly large and taper down to a stockish intake port size but they are still 11.5" long. It does make decent power and tq numbers as is and I think the power numbers do go up a bit with runner shortening/porting.
P9 For some reason, some things I've cleaned up and other things, well, not so much. lol But thanks!
A VERY hard cut to make. May even have had a tear roll down my face..
Now that's a mystery... (Chris Farley voice) Crazy but I accidently bought the correct batt cable back in 1993 or so, super dumb luck.
and yes I know it needs shrink wrap (and it's over crimped) buuut there's a reason or 2.
I'd like to see a detailed shot of the manual transmission hump, if you wouldn't mind? I have yet to tear into a 5 speed car and look at the shifter area. I am wondering what/how the end of the bracket for the console is. The auto cars that bracket comes all the way up to the front where the hole is for the detent cable and to do the shifter opening, you cut through the bracket and throw the rest away where the hole is in the hump. Does the end just flap on the 5 speed cars, or does it go down to the tunnel?
I think I have an idea of what you're asking but not quite 100% sure lol
I figured, lol. It makes sense in my head. The bracket for the console, it ends right behind the opening for the shifter. Could you take a shot of that? I would like to know how they did that from the factory. I have always had automatic cars that I convert to manual, so I just cut the console /shifter bracket to retain the holes for the console screws, but it just "hangs" since there is no support once it is cut.
I figured, lol. It makes sense in my head. The bracket for the console, it ends right behind the opening for the shifter. Could you take a shot of that? I would like to know how they did that from the factory. I have always had automatic cars that I convert to manual, so I just cut the console /shifter bracket to retain the holes for the console screws, but it just "hangs" since there is no support once it is cut.
It's spot welded to the top of the tunnel just behind the boot.
Hahaha. Just kidding. Buuuuuut, as much attention to detail and as well as you have documented it and the process, I’m sure you could fetch a pretty penny for it. If that day ever came. Hopefully you enjoy the hell out of it. Just saying lol.
Since this car didn't have its original hoses or all the correct clamps I had to dig some up. I do have a nice set of low mile 92 hoses but they are dated way after car was built. Can't have that, so I broke out a set of nos hoses.
Interesting aluminum waterpump offered through GM for a short time but not correct for a firehawk.
I don't see a problem... Aside from my project bird, all of my thirdgens are still rocking period correct radiator hoses...
had a buddy few years ago and a lower hose blew on him on highway - It covered tires and off the road he went! I was in car behind him - was an older 72 Firebird - luckily he missed a few trees and ended up in the grass and no harm done but few seconds earlier or later it could of been into bridge guardrail we just went by or worse into oncoming traffic. how likely is a hose to blow like that? not very, but same reason we don't drive on 20 year old tires - ever slipped on puddle of antifreeze? slippery as a whales d^$@
I still have all of my date coded hoses (except for one heater hose). No weeping, leaking, or issues. At some point, I will replace them, and want to work on making my own stencils / stamps to reproduce the current markings.
Think it will be driving this year? 
