chuckf74

Hi All,

I have an 88 Iroc 5.7 with roughly 70K on it and I basically have not driven the car since 2002 and it has not run since 2006. It ran pretty well but I stopped driving it because I didn't want to pile miles on it as a daily driver and then I got married, had two kids and got a house. After that, it fell to the bottom of the financial priorities list! I'm wondering if anybody has been in a similar situation and can tell me what they had to do to get the car running and how much it might cost (ballpark)?

I guess what I'm looking for would basically be a checklist. Even if I can change out all of the fluids and get it started by some miracle, I'd still think that a lot of work would be needed to restore the moving parts. I'm trying to figure out what to expect and I'm also trying to make a choice between dumping a lot of money into it or just selling it as it is.

Thanks,
Chuck

jas2730

iTrader: (7)

first off. How was it stored? Garage kept or outside in the yard?

chuckf74

It's been in the garage since 2006 and was in a parking lot in front of an apartment from 2002 to 2006. It's not up on blocks and still has old fluids.

jas2730

iTrader: (7)

Start by draining the gas tank, flushing the cooling system and replacing all fluids. Then you can start a drivetrain and suspension inspection. Grease all your fittings, make sure your brakes aren't seized, check for rotted fuel and brake lines, ect. You'll need to go over everything checking for damage but for now focus on the major drivetrain and suspension components.

jas2730

iTrader: (7)

Also, before attempting to crank the engine over pull each spark plug and check the condition. Before reinstalling the plugs give each cylinder a good blast of WD-40. A good 4 count will do.

chuckf74

Thanks! That's a good guide. It will be interesting to see how it runs.

Richboll

Take a look at your tires. They will probably be dry-rotted and will for sure have flat spots. Don't plan to go too far or too fast on them.

lunati397

there is a engine block oil cleaner at the parts store you drain the oil fill it with this run the motor for 3 to 5 min then shut down drain and refill with oil

I had a firebird I got that sat for 9 years the oil crudded up in the block letting no oil to the front half of the motor the car ran fine but within a week all the front mains and rod bearings were shot the machine shop told me about the cleaner and I would have blew the crud out and cleaned all the passages


after the first start which is after cleaning the fuel system out let it get warm cycle it through the gears but dont move then change flush the fluids trans would be a good time to install a transgo shift kit along with new fluid and BLEED the brakes real good

88blackiroc

iTrader: (1)

Check your fluids:
-change oil with oil cleaner
-flush coolant and check hoses

Motor check
-change or at least check plugs, wires
-Spray wd40 or oil into each cylinder, four seconds like mentioned sounds good
-unhook the wires and crank it over a couple seconds to built up some pressure
-check all lines and vaccum lines for damage or dryrot

Fuel system
-check has lines all the way back
-change filter
-Drain the gas tank
-drop in a can of injector cleaner or seafoam

That's what I'd do just to get it running. To drive it I'd put it on jack stands first and grease everything and check for any dry rot anywhere. I'd also check the brakes. I don't think the fluid goes bad? I'd still bleed it to make sure there isn't any air in the system and that they aren't seized up.
Im sure there's things I'm missing and these guys will point them out!
Good luck and let us know how it goes

TimF86RS

About $3000 counting tires is my experience so far and still need a paint job. Mine is a V6

jhainer

my 91 sat since 2001 305 tpi the distributor was siezed replaced it. new battery. the computer was on the front seat so i bought a new one . injectors were clogged replaced them with used total was about 500 for everything. changed the oil and started the motor. i have driven it about 50 miles total since that. I also replace the shocks and struts. wheels and tires Brakes look brand new so didn't replace them. so far so good. it was running and drivable in a couple days from when i picked it up. then i moved on to the body.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

I would recommend against the block cleaner. After changing the oil and other fluids prime the oil system before starting it. There are a few ways of doing this, disconnect the ignition and fuel pump wires and crank it for about 30- 45 seconds, or they make a tool that hooks to a drill and goes in the distributor hole. I made one from an old distributor, take off the drive gear and the mount for the rotor so there is just a shaft on the top you can chuck a 1/2" drill to and spin up (clockwise of course)

91project

Remove the distributer cap and spray everything down with wd40, then wipe it down, change the spark plugs, check the wires, drain the gas tank, and put some seafoam in it, change the fuel filter. check for rotten hoses all the way around. change the oil, prime the oil, get it to operating temp then change it again. this is a lot safe for the engine then the engine flush. flush out the cooling system. change all of your fluids. grease all of your joints, brake rotors tend to warp, that's why part stores and shops store them flat. I would replace pads and rotors, and flush out the brake fluid. it will need tires.