Blue Print Engines reviews good or bad...What experiences have you had installing one of their engines.

 

Years ago when they first entered the market I was skeptical. I personally don't have first hand experience with their services/products, but I've talked to countless folks who have one of their motors in their car. From SBC to LS7 they seem to be on their game. I've watched video tours of their operations and they truly seem top notch. They seem to be the exact opposite of jasper.

 

Several guys I know run their 383 and have had good service out of them.

 

I bought and installed a 350 engine have had numerous problems..I know this sounds weird rear main seal leaks, both heads are leaking oil and anti freeze, Blue Print is sending rocker arms also have noise they think it is the rocker arms. Only a couple hundred miles on engine...This motor does not have a big cam in it. This is a roller cam engine initial start up will be to check for leaks and to heat cycle the componets that may need re-tightened, such as intakes, headers, etc. Roller cams do not require a break -in period. Start your engine bring it to 2000 RPM and get it running smoothly. While engine is running check oil pressure, coolant temperature, and check for coolant/anti freeze leaks. Listen for unusual sounds check and correct if need be. This is what I will be getting delivered tomorrow rocker arms, head gasket, rear main seal. If I can figure out how to post pics I will...Everything on the engine is brand new from the motor mounts to the breather. New Doug headers, starter, flex plate radiator, radiator lines new pulley system from CVF alternator and power steering pump...Thought when I bought this to put in my 89 Iroc that would be it but that is not the case. This engine was dyno before they sent it to me 350 341 horsepower..dyno was almost 370 horsepower...They want take engine back to fix. And no the engine did not overheat. What would you all do fix it myself or get them to take it back and fix. When I say the heads are leaking there are traces of oil and antifreeze along the bottom of the heads below the header flange.Thanks 2 IROCS

 

Id send it back

 

 

 

 

 

Had Iroc inspected in June asked if they could take a look and determine where the noise was coming from sounds like a rocker arm but is the loudest at the torque converter flex plate. Said they would have to isolate the trans from engine that is when they said the rear main seal was leaking. Brought it home been on wheel cribs since then first of June. Unhooked the trans from engine took off flex plate that is when I saw the rear main seal leaking but also looks like the oil pan leaking also wiped my finger between the rear main seal and oil pan gasket it was clean. wiped my finger at the oil pan gasket and it was oily. Not going to bash Blue Print Engines just want them to take engine back and fix all the leaks ticking noise coming from motor. Could be from the bottom end just to hard to tell know it is not from trans that has been disconnected. I did all this work by myself in my garage no help at all turned every nut and bolt removed tpi engine and installed this Blue Print 350 engine.

 

Those leaks aren't horrible. I'd show them the pictures and see what they say. It's not uncommon for a brand new motor to have a few drips until the parts marry to each other and seals become conditioned.

 

I ran motor with torque converter disconnected to flex plate...

 

If the leaks are not that bad why are they sending me a rear main seal, head gaskets and a oil pan gasket. just saying

 

I've never had a fresh engine leak at the seals like that.. send that beiotch back. Is that BPE car into the block like it's an aftermarket block? I would question the machinework on it.

 

Roller cams do not require a break in period bring engine to 2000 rpm, heat cycle engine and get it running smoothly check for leaks and oil pressure water temp ...I have spoken to them numerous times and sent video of the engine running and the ticking noise coming from engine can be heard. I will see what they senD me tomorrow when Fedx comes...I will call them again tomorrow hopefully I can talk to someone that is not just wanting to send me parts to fix the engine I bought. Thanks for all the input appreciate all your comments...

 

You could be getting those seal leakages just from the rings not being broken in total just yet, the gasses putting excess positive pressure in crank case. But also if that crankshaft had any real in service time I would always put a repair sleeve on seal journal of crankshaft during build.

 

But I’m the guy who never pays anyone to do something I have the capability of doing

 

Same here that is why I installed this engine by myself not here to brag just want them to do the right thing...if it was one thing to fix that would be one thing but there are multiple things wrong with this engine...There is no break in period with this roller cam engine...Don"t know if you read all the post I made but that is what their installation manual said.Thanks for your input...2irocs

 

Well I know what these companies do and say things that aren’t totally transparent to the customer ” they just stick together this combo knowing that if everything is right it will produce a said HP and TQ at whatever prescribed RPM”. They don’t dyno and shake down every single detail. I’m not defending these guys by any means. I know what it takes to build a killer diller engine to a OEM spec engine, with all the kinks worked out. It takes absolute patience and persistence, they do build a good engine with good warranty. Just stay on top of those guys and make them honor their end of the agreement. Too bad you feel you’re not getting the best product for your money. I would agree that you have a crap show with your engine with the head leaks and such. Good luck but these are small problems and I’d just make them send me new parts like gaskets, head bolts, crank repair sleeve and rear main seal, flex plate bolts, Teflon thread sealer, arp torque lube if that is the head bolts they used, ultra gray RTV, anti-freeze, oil the works. Literally do the work yourself if they will still honor the warranty. Honestly all of these guys that sell these engines to Jegs, Summit and etc are nothing like they use to be and it’s a shame.

 

I appreciate your input doing the work myself is no problem...the deal with me is that I didn't buy this motor to go buy a engine stand take the motor out put new rear main seal in, rocker arms, head gasket and a oil pan gasket. They have video and pics of these problems. There is nothing that I have done to have all these problems with this engine. I paid them over six thousand dollars for this engine. Thanks again for your comments...2irocs

 

Have fun either way and enjoy yourself.

 

I've read your entire thread.
The break-in procedure is not quite as simple as it's been explained to you.
From a professional builder, this is his advice to me for a completely fresh (new everything except crank and block although both have been machined to the next acceptable over/under size).
​​​​​​It's a long read but there a certain details in it that are very important.
Remember, he's discussing a roller cam engine just like yours and mine.

With the roller cam, the cam break-in is less critical. It still has to go through a break-in, just like any metal to metal rotating parts have to, but you at least don't have to worry nearly as much about wiping a lobe. My procedure is the same regardless of cam type.

Use a dedicated break-in oil. Don't mess with oil supplements and common shelf oils. That's better than doing nothing, but you won't get as good of a result as using an actual break-in oil because of the differences in additive chemistry and base oil blend. There's some additives in common shelf oils that you don't want present during break-in as they either hinder ZDDP reactivity or compete with it for surface area. Break-in oils make ZDDP the star of the show and get everything else out of its way.

Don't attempt to fire the engine for the first time unless you're certain that you have good spark, the timing is somewhat correct (not 180 out or bad balancer mark or whatever), and that you have good fuel to start it on. There's some guys that will sit there and crank and crank forever with no spark, fuel washing the cylinders that aren't lubricated because you're not getting oil splash, and the rings glaze the hone before you start the break-in. The same for flat tappet cams. A lot of people blame the manufacturer when they flattened it letting the engine crank over forever with no oil splash. So make sure you check everything off the list, as best you can, before you try to start the engine for the first time.

Heat cycle the engine periodically. Heat cycling is important for the mating of dissimilar metals like aluminum pistons with steel rings riding in a cast iron cylinder. When you fire the engine, don't do so unless you intend to take that engine to >180°F for a while. After doing so, let it cool all the way down to ambient before firing it up again.

Don't use overly viscous oil. You don't need a 50 grade oil for break-in. All you'll do is reduce oil flow. A 30 grade break-in oil is all you need unless you're trying break-in something like a nitrous Pro Mod engine. You can cause yourself issues if you're running thin, low tension rings where a very thick oil film will compromise the rings, pull a lot of oil into the chamber, and just cause all kinds of problems.

Pre-heat the oil before priming the system and starting the engine. You can do it with a pan heater. Bring the oil temp up to 150+°F before you try to prime the system. The oil will be much lower viscosity when warm which lets it flow easier and thus prime the system a lot easier. Some guys will post on forums and social media groups saying they're not getting oil to the rockers when priming with a drill. Then you find out they're using a 15W-40 diesel oil for break-in in 50°F weather where that oil is close to the viscosity of maple syrup. If they used a proper break-in oil and grade, and warmed up a bit first, it would flow just fine. Another factor is additive activation. Additives like ZDDP become more reactive as temperature increases so having a little heat in the oil before you start the engine can help give ZDDP a kickstart to establishing anti-wear films and protecting the engine.

Some people say you don't need to do the 20-30 minutes at 2000-3000 rpm initial phase with a roller cam, and that's true. I do it anyway because it gives a heat cycle and gives the opportunity to iron out some details before you start loading it such as spark timing, air/fuel mixture, or an unforeseen seal leak. I start it with late timing, just 6-8° initial. At 2000 rpm, it may have just 12° in it. This puts a lot more heat in the engine faster because of higher EGTs and higher residual cylinder temps. Once the coolant temp reaches 200°F, I hook up the vacuum advance to manifold to kick the timing up in the 25-30°range to smooth out the engine and level off (or cool off) the coolant temp. The same with EFI, you just keep the spark late in the tables until say it goes into closed loop.

After that, I start loading it as much as I can or tuning will allow. You never want to baby the engine. The worst thing you can do to a new engine is let it idle. You want heat and load on the rings to make them seat and seal up. Go out on a back road where you can get on the gas frequently, put it in 2nd, run it from say 30-50 mph, coast back down, and repeat a dozen or so times. Take it to the dragstrip and show it no mercy.

After that part, I remove the oil filter and cut it open to inspect the media. If anything stands out as alarming, I'll dump the oil to inspect further and collect a sample for analysis. Otherwise, I just grab a sample, top off the oil, and continue the break-in by repeating the step above a couple more times.

At that point, I change the break-in oil and filter for the oil and filter of choice.

 

s what I went by that Blue Print Engines required....

 

2irocs, skinny z just gave you some solid information which is why you are here in the first place but you should voice yourself to engine builder.

 

That's what I gathered.
Now I'm not saying that all of the above is what you have to do and I doubt skipping over any of it is going to cause a RMS leak. But, the parts about ring seal and the break-in additives getting deep into parts is what the future of the engine requires. The last thing I want is to gloss over the heat cycling or some other step and find I've no compression.

And soon to enter will be those that'll say they've never had any problems and they don't follow that professional's advice. Fair enough. I say how do you know?

Anyway, best of luck with BluePrint. I've heard good and bad about them. I hope you get yours sorted. Sadly, no matter the outcome, all of the effort you put into doing the work is not going to be replaced.

Post up with what the conclusion will be. Someone else down the road I'm sure will have the same question as you.
​​​​​

 

I'd thought about including that information in my reply (ask BPE about it) but I'm sure BluePrint would say it's not necessary.
And maybe it isn't but I can say one thing for certain. I do not want to pull this engine ever again (even though I'm entirely likely to) and if a dedicated break-in oil and heat cycling will save the day, I consider myself all in.
There's no accounting for an RMS leak though. And my fingers are crossed on that one.

 

Appreciate everyones comments only here to get feed back and you all have been awesome...Went by Blue Prints instructions from the booklet that was sent with the engine...Quote: FOR ROLLER CAM ENGINES: Initial start-up will be to check for leaks and to heat cycle the componets that may need retightened such as intakes, headers, etc. as seen earlier in this guide.......Roller cams do not require a break in period. Bring it to 2000 rpm and get it running smoothly. While the engine is running be sure to check oil pressure, coolant temperature and check for fluid leaks such as oil, transmission fluid, fuel, and coolant/ anti-freeze. Lister for any unusual sounds. Should you hear an unusual sound, shut the engine off check for the source and correct it. I used their oil that they recommeded for startup as I said above the engine was on a dyno before they sent the engine to me in February of this year... I primed the engine without the plugs in it turned the motor by the harmonic balancer...March 11th is when I dropped it into the Iroc...Called Blue Print today to give it one last shot hoping I can ship it back for them to fix a supervisor is supposed to call...if they don't take it back I will go to Harbor Freight buy a engine stand and pull the motor install rear main seal, oil pan gasket driver side head gasket and put new rocker arms they are sending...THANKS AGAIN FOR EVERYONES COMMENTS THIS IS AN AWESOME FORUM FOR THIRD GEN GUYS AND GIRLS...2irocs

 

I have been back and forth up and down with Blue Print Engines they have known about these problems since the last week of May...I will give a up date and let you all know what the outcome is...Thanks 2irocs

 

Don’t stress yourself out, hold their feet to the fire as much as possible. Good luck

 

I must have missed that part.
I'd like to know what THEY use on break-in.
The part about heat cycle (edited out in this reply) is just as important for the mating of the different metal surfaces as it is for the gaskets. And FWIW, that's something I'd never considered and I can't say with certainty how many engines I've had to break-in. Even way back to the flat tappet days of my long ago youth.

I'll be curious as to the results.
Good luck.

 

Not stressed a bit I am a active 73 years old and cancer free. Diagnosed with bladder cancer last year but cancer free for now. Had a cancerous tumor removed from my bladder you put things in perspective when someone tells you have cancer. Even my wife tells me I am so calm with dealing with all this. Going from fuel injection to carb is not easy to do with our cars a lot of time and thinking has gone in to converting over to carb...I didn't buy that engine to pull it out and put it on a engine stand to fix. One thing to fix is one thing but not multiple problems. I will let you all know the outcome after talking to BPE...Thanks 2irocs

 

We're not too far removed in age and I can only hope in another 9 years I'll still be messin' with hot rods.
I've had a few health scares myself and yes , it does change your perspective on things.
And as I get older, I like to approach this hobby project as a one and done deal. But inevitably, it doesn't go that way.
Good health and good luck.

 

Keep the faith and God Speed!

 

Put new head gaskets and rocker arms on today. Have to set valve lash and put intake on. Cleaning took a while hope to have it back in the Iroc by the weekend.Taking my time hope this will take care of the ticking sound and a few leaks. Will give you all updates....Blue Print Engines have been very good with their parts warranty and support...2irocs

 

Not to stir up a shitstorm 2irocs, but I have to ask why you'd go with the OEM rockers?
It looks like you've taken a lot of care and attention to detail in the longblock assembly. It looks great.
Why cut it short?

 

This was a complete engine when I bought in Feb. has plenty horsepower...to keep warranty had to put rockers that were under their warranty...it has 341 plus hp
ok for what I want it to do...next is a 373 gear...

 

Do you have a 9 bolt rear end?

 

Yes it is 9 bolt.

 

Interesting. I'd no idea Blue Print would use an OEM rocker.
As for the rear gear, when I went to a 3.70 in the 9-bolt, it was a night and day difference in performance. You'll like them I'm sure.

 

Good, be sure to get your gearset from anywhere but 9bolt from Australia. There products are not quality at all, they don’t etch the pinion hieght measurements on the pinion head and there instructions are garbage.

 

Thanks for the info on the 370 gearing...the fun begins when I get the 370 gears...2irocs

 

Have had the BP engine back in the car a couple weeks ago...Runs good now that I have fixed the problems that I had with this new engine...Put new rocker arms rear main seal and new head gaskets...If I had to do over I probably would rebuild what I had in the car the 350 with mild cam...engine ran good but developed a ticking noise and needed some things done to it... I was hoping when I bought this engine from Blue Print Engines I wouldn't have any problems but that was not the case...I posted this to show what could happen when buying a engine from someone 1500 miles away...Did all this work myself BPE they were great about giving me parts to fix engine...If you want the full labor warranty someone other the buyer needs to install to get a labor warranty like a reputable automobile shop...I will give you all updates if other problems develop...2 irocs

 

The reason I went carb had to many issues with the fuel injection engine...it would run great and then it would run like crap got tired of chasing gremlins all the time...fuel injection way to go beats a carb but I like the old school carb setup...with all that tpi stuff gone it is so easy to work on the Iroc love it...2irocs

 

I have a new B&M throttle body, the old one that was on my car and 2 computers and some other tpi parts for sale since I went carb...I will take pics and post what I have for sale this week...2irocs

 

I can appreciate the carb setup. It is simple. I like the look too.
Many (many) years back, before the advent of the EFI systems available today, I ditched the TPI in favour of a four barrel and I've never looked back. Considering that I was tuning carbs in 1978, I can see not much has changed along the way. Maybe there's greater tunability with todays Holleys as opposed to the old 4160 I had in my 1st car but the concept is still the same. Something about the notion of one fuel line and one wire running an engine is appealing. At least to me anyway. That said, I have added wires (MSD ignition box, electric fuel pump, fans) and fuel lines (as in the pump with a return line) but it's still simple in design.

It's good to hear you have things sorted and can enjoy the ride rather than wrenching.