I am thinking of selling the 68 camaro and keeping the the 87 ta

if I do this I will keep the drag motor and m-22 and put them in the ta with a 9 inch rear end 4.56 gears

at a 4500 rpm drop what is the weak spots of the ta? what do you recomend?

later and thanks in advance

rk

The basics first.

1. subframe connecters
2. 6 pt. cage

if he wants to go fast get a 8 or 10 pt cage and be safe! sub frame connectors like said above and Tq Arm/lower control arms/and few other things i can't think of right now

Get a 3" driveshaft with 1350 yokes joints both ends, best to get the Brute Force Spicer u-joints since they are solid-the grease holes/cavities are a weak points.

subframe connectors and 10 point cage. I installed subframe connectors and 8 point before I had body work done. After this season of racing on the transbrake leaving at 3000 on race day and many fun passes from 42-4800 my roof is cracking again, slowly but surely, so that give you some insight of what to expect.

Make sure you have at least 31 spline minimum on your axles with a good gear set also. I ordered 35 spline originally, but most of our center sections w have are all set-up for 31 spline so I called and changed it- so take that into consideration as well.

Be damn sure you get a SFI approved scattersheild just in case, I know I'm pretty attached to my feet, toes, and legs

So the 7.5" 10 bolt can take up to 31 spline axels? How would you convert? What is a good street strip differential for 31 splines? What would the max hp/ torque this rear end could take for a launch with drag radials?

We're talking aboaut a 9" rear end.

You could put a 40 spline axle in those stock rear ends and it wont make any difference, the axles are not the weak point, the go kart sized ring/pinion are the weakest link and no matter what power level, as soon as you add stick tires you just lit the fuse for the upcoming implosion...not a matter of IF it will go, but WHEN. simple as that-weak design and not way to quick fix it.

Do you have a strut brace or what do you do to save the front end?Thanks

No strut brace. I've thought about engineering one in the past, but for no faster than I'm running and no higher the front end pops up off the ground, it's just dead weight that would've not served me any advantages over not running one. Car is always consistant out of the gate so nothing to really gain by installing one. Only thing I had problems with with sbc and the hooker super comp headers was the A arms would smash into the pipes just before the collector and I now have a big crease/dent from repeated beatind over the past few years.

While the motor is out, I will be finishing the cage with the halo/down bars and will be running bars out to the front strut towers like many of the 3rd gen outlaw cars run, still debating if I'll run one from the front side of the strut tower to the front "frame horn" or not, added weight to an already fat hog and I dont know if it'd do much difference in an accident or not.

Do you think I should run a strut brace with my 462 BBC?It don`t hook up real well just yet but it will. Hey I`m in Waterloo too!Thanks very much for answering my questions. Your car is bad ***!

Any bracing would help the cause, jsut how much a strut brace will help for our straight line goals..?? It's not going to hurt anything that's for sure.

I've got multiple pictures of my car on the leave and after I installed the Wolfe Craft anti roll bar there are no signs of chasis flex anywhere, so IMO you can do without since this lil sbc I had was putting out BBC tq numbers (593ft lbs @2900) to the tires.

Put your money into a roll bar/cage if you have'nt done so already-that will be money/effort well spent.

I just thought with the added weight of my bigblock and wanting to get it to launch like yours it might come down hard and collapse my struts or smash my 7 quart Moroso pan.Didn`t know if I had anything to worry about.

If your still running all factory struts/springs, then yeah, the frontend will be on the weak side with the added heft of the iron headed pig block when trying to get some wheel's up action, but it's being spread out to both sides as opposed to strut bracing a autocross car that is shifting huge amounts of weight from one strut side to ther other.

I'd opt for new struts and the right rate coil springs first and foremost, then if you have some scrap steel laying around and some free time, by all means make a strut tower brace, many have said it's tightened up their daily drivers so effort wont be in vein...just a lil more wieght over the nose in an already heavy front end.

As far as oil pans, I'm thinking about going tubular K member this winter since my 7qt pan makes motor installation/pulling a major pita. If I were to keep my stock K member I would go back to a stock pan, this way the sump will still be about flush with the bottom of the cross member so I dont need to worry about future big motored wheel stand coming down and crashing the pan...plus the 2 stock pans we measured, we were able to go with 10 qts of water before it touched the crank counter weights area, I only ever ran 6 qts total in my system at any time anyways., So running an extra qt or 2 in a stock profile pan will do no harm and I'll still have the clearance without windage-since I'm going in a straight line when racing....that does no good to you with the BB, but info for other reading this thread.

How much will a roll cage firm up my launches and handling? Worth it for a street car? will weld it in if i got it.

What would be the lowest priced (notice how i didnt say cheap) way to get my rear/buy a rear to handle the torque of a 383 built for street? idk, 480 ft/bs or so.

Thanks!

The roll bar/cage which ever route you go will make a dramatic improvement to the cars ability to launch and handle, it will take away all the flex of the body and literally make the suspension start doing the job it's intended to do in the first place, but is somewhat handicapped by body flex which is a bad thing in any vehicle with power since you'll slowly weaken/tear up other things not directly associated with body flex alone.

Definately weld in, that is the only way the roll bar/cage will do it's job to the fullest by being tied directly to the car. Bolting one in leaves a mechanical joint that over time can start to give/flex/move so it's not performing it'sjob as intended. We all kknow the backseats in these things are a joke, so take that into consideration before installing the bars as back seat entry will be all bbut impossible for anybody but a midget or little kids that like crawling through monkey bars S&W makes great packages for roll bars, I used the Jegster 8 point and it went together very well, with any installation the bars come long and will need fine tuning aka cutting/notching to achieve a good fit, but the base package is very good to start with and priced right. When we installed mine it was literally 5 hours from the time we walked into the shop, turned on teh lights and then walked out with a finished roll bar with 3 coats of paint.

Some guys with alot of fabbing skills will just get a ford 9" and do all the work themselves relocating brackets etc...I dont have the patience for that kind of thing so I just called a local Moser dealer and ordered their 9" rear end. All said and done bolted in the car with working disc brakes I had right at $2400. You amy be able to score a 9" or 12 bolt that will bolt in, but you have to have the funds available when internet searching to ****** them up since they go quickly if you find them, so I'd stillhave abour $2K at your disposal when you get serious about finding a rear end, if you get it for $12-1500 (typically what I've seen them go for) you'll have change left over for the adult beverages when you go to install it.

Some guys on this board have gotten the stock rears to handle that kind of power for awhile, I have no faith after eating up 4 with just a mild 350hp 355sbc.

Mine has a 9 inch with a D/T locker and 411s with disc brakes.I also drive it on the street alot
hehehehe SLEEPER<<~~~~~~~~~

If i did the cage like this and didnt install the blue bar, would it still hold? I need my rear seats. Would i need to install the green bars to make it hold? Is there a better way?

Yoour design would be better than nothing, but not as strong since it's not tying into the car itself. Even though you've got a trriangle for strength, it's in the wrong spot, they would be a good addition to a correctly built cage if one did'nt want to install the funny car cage kit.

I personally dont hve the bars that go from hoop to tranny tunnel installed, not as strong as if I had them installed in case over roll over. So if your going for more street than strip, you could eliminate the green bars all together, make a removal blue bar, and then install swing out door bar kits on door bars and your darn near streetable. Too many mechanical joints for my tastes, but if you need your as a daily driver for putting freinds in the back seat, then you have to do what you have to do.

Hey IHI this might sound a little bad but could I stop by somtime with my Camaro and maybe get some advice on a few things on my car?You could even stop by here. I will pay for your time.My car has lift bars on the back and I could use some advice.Thanks and have a great day!!!!!!
kikgas01@aol.com or 319-961-9459.Thanks again.