okay, i ran last night and ran horribly and i'm kind of stumped.

last year with 2 barrels on my 650 opening (choke lockout i forgot about) i ran 15.5 and 15.4

last night i ran the exact same setup except for the trans (th350 in place of the 700), and it came out 15.9, 15.2, then i advanced the timing a little and set the detent again (doesn't really matter cuz i shifted through) and i ran a 17.6 and then a 17.2

my engine is built very similar to unknown host's, except i'm runnin a 268 and not a 274 cam (i think it was unknown host), the car is responsive as hell in 1st and 2nd, drive it kinda looses it's punch.

i'm not catchin traction worth a damn, my best 60ft was 2.233 and that was the 15.9 pass, the 17's were 2.58 and 2.73 respectively

last year my 1/8's were 9.2, 9.3 etc, last night i was hittin with 11's

the trans doesn't seem to be slipping, am i just spinning everytime i touch the gas? i'm running yokohama a-400 245/60r15's or do you guys think the lsd (clutch pack is very near dead) 3.08 is killing me? It's odd, every time i did a burnout my passenger side wouldn't move but my d/s would smoke like all hell, when i got to the line my passenger side would spin and my d/s wouldn't hook, the camera shots weren't car enough uptrack to see any wheelspin later on, and i'm hittin the 1/4 just leaving 2nd, do i need a throw some 3.73's in it or what?

 

post your MPH that will give us a good idea what you're doing

 

RUN 1
R/T: 2.949
60ft:
330ft:6.429
594ft:9.329
et@1/8:9.98
mph@1/8:69.12
1000ft:13.036
et@1/4:15.593
mph@1/4:88.43

RUN 2
R/T: 0.922
60ft:
330ft:6.886
594ft:9.714
et@1/8:10.352
mph@1/8:70.52
1000ft:13.355
et@1/4:15.887
mph@1/4:89.28

RUN 3
R/T: 1.181
60ft: 2.231
330ft:6.703
594ft:9.673
et@1/8:10.323
mph@1/8:68.28
1000ft:13.536
et@1/4:16.269
mph@1/4:83.06

RUN 4
R/T: 1.019
60ft: 2.429
330ft:6.833
594ft:9.732
et@1/8:10.381
mph@1/8:69.24
1000ft:13.491
et@1/4:16.151
mph@1/4:84.59

RUN 5
R/T: 0.161
60ft: 2.233
330ft:6.507
594ft:9.388
et@1/8:10.039
mph@1/8:69.03
1000ft:13.214
et@1/4:15.913
mph@1/4:83.87

RUN 6
R/T: 1.021
60ft: 2.587
330ft:7.29
594ft:10.449
et@1/8:11.16
mph@1/8:63.27
1000ft:14.616
et@1/4:17.596
mph@1/4:74.7

RUN 7
R/T: 0.856
60ft: 2.739
330ft:7.423
594ft:10.537
et@1/8:11.237
mph@1/8:64.34
1000ft:14.512
et@1/4:17.246
mph@1/4:82.86

run 1&2 were last year with only the primaries and running the th700r4

run 3-7 were last night, wild variation, after #4 i advanced the timing a little, lowered air pressure, and adjusted the detent, no adjustments for 6 & 7

it's driving me nuts, this should be a solid low 13 car and it's ALL over the board, it'd be one thing if i made adjustments after run 5 and it went to 17's, but i didn't

 

If you meant your d/s would hook outta the hole, try to stop the d/s burnout, and do a second one, the passanger side may spin. I don't think the tranny is the 'main' problem because you should been faster than a 15.x win the 700r4.

 

like i said the secondaries weren't opening when i ran the 700r4, there's a choke lockout i didn't know about at the time

 

this might be easier for you guys to interpret and analyze...

 

You're really down on mph from the first 2 runs. You tune an engine at the dragstrip by watching the mph not the et. When you do a change to the engine, the mph will indicate if you're making more or less hp. Even with lots of wheel spin off the line, mph will still be roughly the same however et will be much slower.

Try retarding the timing to see if the mph picks up. You may have it too far advanced. Advancing the initial timing also advances the total timing. If the engine likes 36* and you increased the initial 4* more, your total timing is now 40*. The goal is to find out what total timing the engine likes best. You should be at full advance before 3000 rpm. Once you find the best timing, other changes to the engine, jets, plug gap etc, won't affect the engine's best timing position.

It's also possible that the TH350 might be damaged. I blew up an intermediate sprag in one and it did the same thing. Every run got slower until I finally lost second gear. Shifting into second did nothing so I shifted into third and finished the run. Pull the tranny oil pan off and see if there's any hard parts sitting in the bottom.

 

do you think i should look at the engine, the trans, or the rear as the primary cause of the slowdown from the first two runs (last year with the 700 trans and only 2 barrels), i'm pretty sure i'd be under 13.5 with all 4 barrels open cuz i beat a friend that ran 13.5-13.3 all year when i got the carb workin right last year before the trans blew. Thats what makes me wonder about the trans so much, the car was running real hard when the 700r4's didn't blow up, now it just seems like it's dead, even though everything in the trans works right, as far as i can tell, it just accelerates slow as hell.

 

IMO - the crappy gears and lack of traction aren't helping. Also, you made no mention of a stall converter and what type of cylinder heads you have. Even if you were able to pull off some sub 2.0 sixty foot times - I still don't think it would run any faster than mid 14's. The MPH just isn't there.

FYI - Unknownhost is running an internally stock 330 HP GM crate motor. He recently went 12.9 @ 106+ w/ a sub par 2.0 60 foot time.

 

cylinder heads are off a 350/350 crate engine. the stall converter is a B&M but not sure about the stahl, somewhere between 2000 and 2400.

unknown_host's engine maybe internally stock, but mine is not, it's a 30 over 350, ground/polished crank, balanced, blueprinted rods, flattop 10:1 hypers, xe268 cam, 650 edelbrock and performer intake

had all four barrels been opening last year (edelbrock has a choke lockout that locks the secondaries closed unless choke is full open that i didn't know about) my first two runs would have been quite a bit faster, as i was onlt flowing 275cfm into the engine when i ran 1 & 2, thats why i have a hard time believing it's the engine

i can't help but think the trans is slipping extremely bad or soemthing else is ****ed up

 

We had a local racer a couple of years ago trying to slow down so he didn't get bumped into a quicker bracket. His mustang had a 302 with a 750 DP. He disconected the secondaries and only slowed down .1

Pull the tranny pan off first and look inside before you start guessing at what's wrong. If the oil is clean and there's no parts sitting in the pan, you can then start looking at other faults.

 

well, i guess the course of action i'm gonna take is swap rears from the 3.08 single to 3.42 posi and swap trans filters and check the pan. I've been meaning to do the rear swap for a while now anyway. Hopefully the trans has some minute problem that i can remedy, if i don't get an improvement out of the trans with minor tinkering, i'm gonna swap in another 700r4 out of an 87 camaro to see if it makes any difference, if not then i have no choice but to look at the engine as the source of my problems, but i have a very hard time believing it's the engine, even if it was stock with 150,000 on it, it should be capable of high 14's

i doubt i'll find too much in the trans pan, i was told the rebuild was fresh a few hundred miles ago, i bought it, stuck it in thursday, drove it down the road, everything seemed to shift right, but i didn't wanna stress it too much, took it to the track friday, ran like crap, and posted here friday night, so the fluid and all is fresh and i've got less than 4 miles on it, but i'll remain hopeful

 

Did you check the plugs to see what they look like?

 

yea, plugs are fine, not a sign of anything wrong with the engine, further supporting my notion that it's the trans or rear