Trans Selection for 1/4 Mile
Trans Selection for 1/4 Mile
Well, my stock trans finally blew up so I need a new one. I've pretty much decided to stay automatic. Now I'm contemplating between a 700, 350, and 400. I have around 440-450 HP (setup in sig), and I'll be shifting around 6500 or so, so any of those will for sure be built up and have around a 3200 stall converter. I also plan to spray it (100 shot most likely). Now how can I tell which one will net me better ETs and MPHs? They all obviously have different ratios, and I don't know which way to go to get my the best times with my power. Also, has anyway heard anything on the "Coan 3 Speed" (www.coanracing.com). I know with this trans you can select ratios for first and second. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Re: Trans Selection for 1/4 Mile
Originally posted by CamaroX84
Well, my stock trans finally blew up so I need a new one. I've pretty much decided to stay automatic. Now I'm contemplating between a 700, 350, and 400. I have around 440-450 HP (setup in sig), and I'll be shifting around 6500 or so, so any of those will for sure be built up and have around a 3200 stall converter. I also plan to spray it (100 shot most likely). Now how can I tell which one will net me better ETs and MPHs? They all obviously have different ratios, and I don't know which way to go to get my the best times with my power. Also, has anyway heard anything on the "Coan 3 Speed" (www.coanracing.com). I know with this trans you can select ratios for first and second. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Well, my stock trans finally blew up so I need a new one. I've pretty much decided to stay automatic. Now I'm contemplating between a 700, 350, and 400. I have around 440-450 HP (setup in sig), and I'll be shifting around 6500 or so, so any of those will for sure be built up and have around a 3200 stall converter. I also plan to spray it (100 shot most likely). Now how can I tell which one will net me better ETs and MPHs? They all obviously have different ratios, and I don't know which way to go to get my the best times with my power. Also, has anyway heard anything on the "Coan 3 Speed" (www.coanracing.com). I know with this trans you can select ratios for first and second. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
My turbo 350 cost me $100 used. I put a $50.00 shift kit in it, a $260 torque converter and a $50.00 transmission cooler and it has withstood a season of low 12 second passes.
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From: Chatsworth, Ga
Car: 1965 Chevelle SS
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH350
Hey man, if you decide to go the 350 route, I have one for sale. I am not trying real hard to sell it because I may punt my 700 in my car soon. I will however let it go for a decent price. Its a fresh th350 with a manual valve body. I also have a new in the box super street fighter tq convertor.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 260
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From: Illinois
Car: 82 Pace car
Engine: Small block
Transmission: TH350
I ran my 350 all year with a shift kit in the high 11's. NO problems. It's not a manual valve bdy because I street drive it and wanted to be able to jsut drive sometimes. Next year I'm switching to a 400 W/brake and a bigger converter.(my current converter is a 3500). BTW I shift at 7000
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,271
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
But a $5k transmission will be hard to destroy.
My powerglide was under $100 from the junkyard. By the time I got it in my car it's worth is around $1500 plus I have a $1200 converter.
Personally I'd say go with a TH400. Since you want to use NOS, buy a converter that is built to take the abuse. It will have anti balloning plates, plus other internal goodies that won't be easy to break. Torque converters are "you get what you pay for".
My powerglide was under $100 from the junkyard. By the time I got it in my car it's worth is around $1500 plus I have a $1200 converter.
Personally I'd say go with a TH400. Since you want to use NOS, buy a converter that is built to take the abuse. It will have anti balloning plates, plus other internal goodies that won't be easy to break. Torque converters are "you get what you pay for".
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Thanks for the replies. Stephen, I completely agree with you on the fact that a 5K trans will be hard to destroy. However, I'm on a college budget here. Right now I'm sort of leaning towards the 700, because it has overdrive and I can put a lockup converter on there, unlike the 350 and 400 (I do make the occassional 40 mile trip here and there). The only things I'm concerned about with the 700 is the huge drop in ratios in the 1-2 shift (3.06 to 1.63) compared to the 350 (2.52 down to 1.52) and the 400 (2.48 to 1.48), and the fact that I can build up a 350 or 400 stronger and cheaper than a 700. Any other suggestions? Please keep in mind I drive the car pretty much everyday during the summer only. Would getting a dyno run and producing a power graph help determine what ratios would be better performance wise? Thanks again guys.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
If its mostly a street car then have Pro Built build you a 700R4. I'd personally use a TH400 because its a fairly strong transmission. I have a B&M 400 it use to be part of my Camaro
and it worked very well for a street strip trans.
If you need a lockup trans you might consider a TH350C its lockup and drops a few RPMs at highway speed.
and it worked very well for a street strip trans. If you need a lockup trans you might consider a TH350C its lockup and drops a few RPMs at highway speed.
It is mostly a street car, but I take it to the track often as well. If the gearing on the 700 was better, I would go with that hands down. But, unfortunately it's setup with a 3.06 1st gear and a 1.63 2nd gear. So theoretically, at 6500 RPM with a 3.73 rear and a 245/50/16 tire, I will be going 43 MPH, and when I shift it at that point the motor will drop down to 3400 RPM. With the 350 and the 2.52 1st gear & 1.52 2nd gear, at 6500 RPM, I'll be going 53 MPH, and when I shift it will drop down to 4000 RPM. So how do I know which one will get me a better ET? Thanks again.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,271
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
The TH350 will probably give the best ET. Not just because of the gearing but because it's lighter and eats up less HP than the TH400.
The TH400 is 130 pounds and takes 44 hp to rotate the internal parts. The TH350 is around 115 pounds and only uses 36 HP to turn the internal parts.
A third option is to use a Metric 200 tranny 200-4R. It has similar gear ratios as the TH350 but also has an OD. Plus it uses much less HP to turn the internal parts. Many of the Buick GN cars use them.
As far as I'm concerned the 700R4 is only good as a street tranny. Good low gear to get you off the line and an OD for highway driving. It has very little performance advantage because of it's weak design and poor gear ratios.
The TH400 is 130 pounds and takes 44 hp to rotate the internal parts. The TH350 is around 115 pounds and only uses 36 HP to turn the internal parts.
A third option is to use a Metric 200 tranny 200-4R. It has similar gear ratios as the TH350 but also has an OD. Plus it uses much less HP to turn the internal parts. Many of the Buick GN cars use them.
As far as I'm concerned the 700R4 is only good as a street tranny. Good low gear to get you off the line and an OD for highway driving. It has very little performance advantage because of it's weak design and poor gear ratios.
Last edited by AlkyIROC; Dec 1, 2003 at 08:04 PM.
Thanks for the reply. Any idea what it takes to turn the 700? Also, if I go to a 350, I know I'm going to have to get a different crossmember from Spohn (since I have the Spohn torque arm), but what about a driveshaft? Do I need to get one custom made (I want to stay with aluminum)? As far as the 200, I understand it's basically the same case as the 350 (externally that is), so would the same apply for the driveshaft? Are 200R4 trannies suitable for racing? If so, who makes/builds them strong? Thanks again.
-Ken
-Ken
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,271
Likes: 171
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
A long tailshaft TH350 (9") is the same length as a 700R4 so the same driveshaft can be used but the rear mounting pad is 2" forward. The stock crossmember can be used. You just need to buy the conversion kit that allows you to do the simple tranny swap and be able to use a stock style torque arm.
No idea on how much HP a 700R4 uses but it's not a very strong tranny. It's possible to build one up but it costs more than any other tranny. The TH400 is the cheapest to built up since very little is needed to make it stronger.
There are many 200-4R (not 200R4) trannys racing. Check out www.gnttype.com
Factory aluminum driveshafts are not very strong. http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=193781
No idea on how much HP a 700R4 uses but it's not a very strong tranny. It's possible to build one up but it costs more than any other tranny. The TH400 is the cheapest to built up since very little is needed to make it stronger.
There are many 200-4R (not 200R4) trannys racing. Check out www.gnttype.com
Factory aluminum driveshafts are not very strong. http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=193781
Whats the difference between the 200R4 and the 200-4R? Anyone know how reliable the ones from Bowtie Overdrives are(www.2004r.com)? Thanks again.
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
I ran a 700r4 with a Coan 2800 stall then switched to a TH350 with a 3500 stall. Identical 60's, 1/4 mi times and mph. If your street driving just have a good rebuild done on your 700r with a decent convertor. If this was a track only car I would say beef up a 350 since 400-450hp is'nt too much for that trans and you'll be able to put more of it to the ground over the 400. Not that I'm against 400's, but at low hp levels they almost overkill and will hurt performance.
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From: north plainfield, nj
Car: 05' GTO
Engine: 6.0L
Transmission: A4
i got the 350 in my car and have been using the car as a daily driver for the past 2yrs (legally) and it hasnt given me one problem, i go to the track a few times a yr and also get on it every now and then around town and its held up. i now have a TCI trans cooler, should help it live longer. cant wait to get the 2800 stall for my tranny. i know im not runnin anywhere close to the HP you guys got but im gettin there.
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