What kind of 1/4 should I run and what kind of hp # would I have at the crank.

I have worked over dart pro 1
ops pro toplines
Edelbrock esp. intake
now rpm air gap
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
Headman headers true duals no cat v force muffler
350 bored 40 over
New crank
Corvette oil pan
Windage tray
Flat top pistons
10 to 1 compression
Cam specs are intake 421 lift 278 duration exhaust 441 lift 288 duration now xe274
I got rid of all the stuff in the engine bay I didn’t need ac smog pump that stuff

700r4
2300 stall
Transgo shift kit

Posi rear end
343 gears

Stock rims with new tires

What times should I run and what is holding me back.

 

is this a hydraulic roller or solid roller cam? Lontube or shorty headers? what kind of tires are you running? What is the LSA on the cam?

Sorry for all the questions, but things like this help out a lot.

 

It is a hydraulic cam, it has shorty headers, and it is eather a 110 or a 112 lsa. I am runing duralon in the back sumitumo in the front.
I plan on runing some 16x8 rims when i can aford them and dot slicks

 

One other thing I just thought of...are the specs you listed advertised or .050"? 278/288 looks like advertised to me, but I just want to make sure.

 

From what I gather so far, I am going to have to guess that you should be running mid to low 14s and possibly even high 13s.

 

before the heads i was runing mid 14 with out tuning the carb and had not checked the timing fore like a mounth.

 

You've either got some seriously mismatched parts here, or you made some typing errors. Those cam specs don't make very much sense. If it's a .421ish lift cam, i would expect duration to be somewhere in the 210 range, not 288. If thats the case, then those heads are waaaayyy overkill for the rest of the combo. The cam will be out of breathe long before it has an opportunity to take advantage of the heads. If the duration you posted was right, then i'd imagine the lift is more like .521ish, in which case, the intake and carb you have are gonna be holding you back. I'd be looking to go to at least a RPM intake, if not a Vic. Jr, and a carb somewhere in the 700-750 cfm range. Keeping on the assumption that it's a 288dur cam, your converter stall is a little on the low side as well. Something 3000+ plus would really wake that sucker up. The 1 5/8" primary headers you have aren't exactly optimal either, assuming you have 288, .521 lift cam either, but they are about the last of your bottlenecks.

Eric

 

I agree with zupmanZ28, your combo is mismatched. If you keep the Dart Pro 1's then you need a cam with more lift, RPM airgap intake, higher stall 3000-3500, 750 holley DP carb, and steeper gearing(3.73-4.10). The 215cc intake of the Pro 1's makes them a great high RPM head especially when ported...the cam, stall, 600cfm carb and gearing you have won't take advantage of this. I would suggest another type of head such as vortecs if want to keep the other components. Vortec heads work well with low lift cams to make lots of low end torque. Or keep the Dart heads and change the rest of the combo...mid to low 12's with the changes suggested. The combo as you listed might be good for a mid to low 13 sec 1/4 mile.

 

I will change the intake, cam, and carb eventually, as soon as I can afford them

I want a cam and intake that will be good up to 6500 rpm that is the max I want to spin the motor up to.

I asked the trans guy when I had my trans done to install a 2500-3000 stall and this is what he gave me it stall at a bought 2200 or so

I only want to run 12 flat on the spray and have great street manors

The cam spec are what the builder gave me he uses a lot of comp and crane cams so it is one of those I am thinking comp but I am not sure

 

What a bought a plain rpm not a rpm air gap

I herd that the air gap manifolds have a problem in the cold they don't perform right till the engine gets warmed up.

Right now I have less than an inch of hood clearance that manifold is a 1/2" taller then than esp. and eventually I want to run nitrous

I have the edelbrock air cleaner 1" drop with a 2" filter on it

How do I increase hood clearance for a nitrous plate?

 

are you serious? my initial thought was..."oh, just drop the motor 2-3 inches!" here's your sign!

but i thougt that might be a little harsh so, i would suggest either a drop base air cleaner or a cowl hood. a cowl hood will allow cooler air in and you can run a non drop base air cleaner. a drop base air cleaner will slow the air down a bit.

 

I all reedy have a 1" drop and a 2" filter I could get the gm 2" drop and a 2 1/2" filter. The wallet is getting a little thin especially after a new intake so a new hood is out for now.

 

your going to put $300-$600 worth of nitrous on but you can't afford a $400 hood?????

the hood *should* close with what you have right now.(no n2o) i have a 3" filter and a 1" drop base on a holley street dominator intake and holley carb and my hood closes fine. i would seriously think about getting the hood before the nitrous, for the clearance sake.

the 2" drop and a 2.5" filter will never clear the air horn on the carb. never. and if it some crazy reason, you got it to work, it would never flow right. costing you lots of power. i would definetly suggest the cowl hood. you will lose weight off the front of the car AND pick up hp from having the filter bringing in colder air in a cleaner that isn't restrictive (ie a flat base or raised base filter)

 

I ran a rpm air gap with a demon carb, 1" drop base cleaner with a 3 inch tall filter and the hood closed. The lid to the aircleaner barely touched the hood, but it fit.

As far as the air gap having problems when cold, why are you worried about performance on a cold motor? you shouldn't be putting it in a position where it has to perform when it's cold anyhow. For the record, i've never had a problem with an intake manifold not performing when cold. Its a static item, so theres not much that can go wrong.

Go back and check your cam specs and post what you find. There's something drastically wrong with the specs you posted.

Eric

 

i think those duration specs he posted are advertised, not @.050.

 

Ok you talked me in to a hood nitrous is next year then.

What are the real world improvements of the air gap over the plain rpm just seeing if it is worth that extra 70$

The cam specs are advertised.

What cam would you recommend?

 

First off thank you now who that tgo is back

Wile it was gone I sold my carb and I plan on getting a new soon. Would an edelbrock 750 cfm be enough?

Unless any one says I shouldn’t I am going to order the rpm air gap on Monday along wit the valve breathers.

I am thinking of get a crane energizer cam either the 228 .480 or the 246 .500 one.

Voice your opinions

O the heads are pro top lines not pro 1

 

A little more info on the heads they have 180 runners 67cc combustion chamber.

I have not ordered the intake yet the rpm air gap is the way to go right

 

That cam sounds a lot better.

If you are intending to drag race this car, get a double pumper carb, Holley or Demon.

 

It will see a lot more street than strip.

I might turbo it this fall I know this guy how has 27 Daytona’s a few of them turboed that he wants to junk out. He said he would sell me two turbos cheap. And this other guy who likes too plays around with turbos who will do it for almost nothing.

 

well, if you want to turbocharge the car with a carb, then you CAN'T use a vacuum secondary carb. it will just blow those secondaries open.

 

i just got a rpm air gap intake and i am just about to purches a carb holley 750 dp

please help me with a cam.

are summit cams any good?

 

how is this for a cam summit #sum-k1107 234* 244* at .050, .488" .510" with factory rocker 114 Lobe Separation

 

or this comp cam # 12-25-3 240* 246* .507" .510" with a 110 lsa

 

look into the comp cams XE274, you'd probably really like that cam.

 

I like it how much vacuum should I have, how street able will it be, and will it be ok with a turbo

 

it's an all around good street cam. it will work with a turbo, but anything off the shelf will "work". if your serious about turbocharging, do some more research on it, then call comp cams and have them grind you a custom cam for your application. also, the rpm air gap is a great intake for an n/a street motor, but with forced induction and a carb, you will want to go with a single plane intake, like a victor jr. or something like that so that the fuel mixture is better distributed to the cylinders.

not really sure about the vacuum question, but i know people that run it with power brakes without too much issues. this is the cam i am thinking about upgrading to.

 

I am not that serious yet I just want to run a 12 flat so I can take out most ls1 and a few viper’s and won’t need a cage. A turbo seamed to be the best way to do it and as a + I can up the boost when I get a cage

 

12 flat is EASY without a turbo. you should have no problems with your heads and that cam i suggested. a 750double pumper would top it off nicely.

 

Dart makes the Pro 1 heads with 200, 215, 227 and 230cc intake runners.

 

I ran 12.2's with a 350, 9.9:1 compression, ported vortec heads and the XE274 camshaft.

 

Some guy said that with the pro 1 I would run mid to upper12's after that I realized that they were pro top lines with 180 runners.

If I could I would love to run 12.0x Na but still be street able

 

I am a bought to order the xe274 I just want to make sure that everyone think that is the right cam for the job

 

Its a great camshaft for a decent flowing cylinder head with a smaller runner on a 10:1 350.

 

The cam has been ordered along with a two peace timing cover.

 

how is this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33550

 

THAT would work rather well actually!

 

Is there any thing more that is needed to push my combo to low 12's

 

get that together and go to the track and get some times and some driving experience. then come back with the times and we'll let you know what needs to be done.


oh, and weight reduction.