Last saturday was my first time back since last year, missed opening week. Anyway I did not even want to go as it poured the whole way to track except for about the last 2 miles (hate driving my car in the rain) even though they where still saying open I thought there was no chance.. Well lone behold the sun comes out and made for a very humid mid 70s race day.

First pass out 11.02 @ 123 followed by an 11.04, 11.01,11.01
11.03. Still spinning the 28x10.5s M/T besting a 1.49 60. Best last year was 1.44.
I was very happy with humid as it was to run so well, but wish I could have not spun every pass.. or got a little gust of wind to hit the magic number. but all in all I am happy running that well first day out in humid weather..

Talked with M/T for a while - great tech guy! anyway he says he thinks I need stiff sidewall tires, that the tire may be running over it self.. Which last year I happened to see a photo of my car just as throttle was stabbed and you can clearly see the slick buckled way up and about 2" high. Due to a few things - slicks are 3 yrs old, no tubes used and standard sidewall stiffness, also using on a 8.5" wheel.

So for now I bought Tubes, and putting slicks back on my 10" wheels. I have been fight traction problems in this car since last year, they are kind of manageable and consistant now but still irritating.

 

Fast car you have there . I am surprised you are mph'ing so well with a borderline small camshaft for a 406. Really impressive.

 

Nice times. Do you have 210s?

 

Thanks Guys,
I have been contemplating a cam swap.. Not sure yet..
I really like the way it drives with this one. But I may swap in something with a tighter lobe seperation.

Trevor the heads are 195's

 

What all do you have done to your rearend?I also have the stock 10 bolt,but I'm afraid to put slicks on it.

 

You will slow down 60', ET, mph with the addition of the tubes. That extra rotating mass kills you-I know. Your next set of sticky's, buy Hoosiers and be done-no tubes/no traction problems and quicker ET's. Many hardcore M/T loyalists that have tred Hoosies will attest to this.

I ran M/T last year (after 3 years of running Hoosiers) and guess what, I'm running Hoosiers again. Not being a sinyc, but the tubes just took you the wrong way of where you want to be.

Also: were your bracket racing or T&Ting for fast passes? Put more air into the tires to help keep them from buckling, if they're wrapping up that bad your cupping the centers and not getting full contact, I run mine at 11psi so my R/T is where it needs to be, but can run 14psi and still hook like a beeotch

 

Well believe me I have tried everything, last year was a complete write off as far as racing due to T&T basically all year...
The slicks are not buckling due to lack of air - I have tried from 9-17 lbs in 1 lb increments. It seems to like 13 best. Anymore it blows tires off, anything less they seem to wrap.
If the tubes stiffen the sidewall as supposed to they should help 60ft and possibly ET.. If they hook they will deffinetly help 60ft. I know what you are saying about the rotating mass. 4.5 lbs per wheel.. ouch. But I had to try it.
I previously had a set of hoosier QT pros 27 x 11.5's same thing. My list of things tried last year is longer than this board... M/T really seems to think my sidewalls are just shot on these and I kind of believe it, they said the sidewalls get weak before the tread gets worn.

You run a transbrake right? I really thing the jegster TQ arm is much more effective with T-Brake also requiring more air to be run due to the brutal down force on the tires..
When foot braking as I am it preloads rear a little to much, The best thing I did since that arm was lower car to allow more travel before locking out the shocks from all the lift.
Well thanks for compliments and advice.

 

I run a transbrake and on race day leave at 3000, on play days lookin for wheelies 4800 and everytime tires were at 11 psi-even with the M/T with tubes.

After running Hoosier full slicks, Hoosier Quik Time Pro's, M/T full slicks I can say the M/T slicks have the softest sidewall I've ever seen. The 2 sets I ran last year, when I took them outta the box, could not even support their own weight-sidwalls so thin the tire would literally collapse-main reason why som many have had problems with air leaking through the sidewall of M/T slicks than any other brand. M/T slicks dont like long burnouts, I found a quick cleaning was all they took to hook like crazy. The Hoosier Quick Time Pros I've been running take alot of heat to stay stickey since they use a harder compound. I dont run full slicks anymore so my car is still eligble for some of the street car racing our track has that require DOT stamped tires.

I've run slicks with tubes and I did not notice any better 60's, mph, et-mine all lost out. I hope for your sake of time and money you can prove me wrong, but after having been there and done that-talked with alot of racers before I tried it also-the results were as they all stated.

Only thing good to running tubes, they hold air pressure more consistant between rounds. Just be sure to baby powder the snot out of them before installing (inside tire and tube) and you'll need to drill 5/8" hole in your rim for the tubes valve stem-implement valve stems can be installed after you remove the tubes and they do come in chrome

Anybody else reading this interested in 1 pair of M/T pure rubber racing tubes let me know-fits tires upto 29.5" tall....$50 for the pair plus shipping.

 

Wish I knew you had the tubes And the 5/8 hole I am really not happy with either.. Ohh well, if it makes me hook... I hope.

 

Kind of a toss up if they're not mounted yet of what it'd cost to ship them back and then buy mine. I always find out about stuff after I've already gone ahead and bought what I wanted

Eventually your going to have to buy new stickies, that's a given. Best advise I can give since I've run the 2 major players tires slick/DOT, give the Hoosier slicks a shot I think you'll be very impressed. Hoosier has always been a VERY predicatable tire for me at the starting line, plus good consistant times on the track. Not to mention in years past they'd hook till the cords showed, I have'nt had the opportunity to try that since I stepped up a class since I cant risk it, but I've always gotten great tire life from my Hoosiers. Stick with the D05 compound for s shorter burnout and max sticky, if your going to run them on the street keep with the C07 compound, more burnout required but longer life when using in street strip application.

Many of my buddies have given up on the M/T ET streets since tire life is so short, and as you already mentioned there would be alot of plug let, but 60's would vary every pass.

 

you really think the tubes slow you a noticable ET amount? I wasn't thinking my stock salad shooters were slowing me that much and those things are a good 10 plus lbs heavier each than a drag wheel. comments???