i went to the strip last night for the first time(with me driving),
here is my best run:
R/T....613
60'...2.147
330'...6.031
1/8...9.283
MPH...75.57
1000'...12.089
1/4...14.462
MPH...94.97

does this sound right for my combo? and what should i be able to run if i can get off the line?

this car really has no low end torque, it is kind of a dog off the line but once it hits 3k it pulls good, would a larger stall help? shifting at 5400rpms.

327", '70's 305 heads cut for 1.94 valves(no porting, not any of the good ones), non-rpm performer manifold, holley 4160 600cfm, comp Xe268(.477/.480 224/230) hedman shorties, test pipe, 2.5" dynomax catback, TH350, stock stall, 3.73 posi, street tires
Thanks

 

If it dogs off the line and then takes off at 3000 RPMs, you need a converter that stalls there.

 

that motor needs a 3" catback at least, 3000 stall, performer RPM manifold, 650 cfm double pumper holley and a few other things and it'll really wake up.

 

With good traction you should be into the 13's, you are trapping the same as me, If you can get it up on the convertor and hold the tires you should be cutting 1.9x 60's, and you'll be there. Definetely get a convertor though!!

 

I totally agree with that!
Especially with the converter and exhaust you will really wake that car up..
Something like a TCI streetfighter thats pretty tight on street and killer at track with that combo.
Nice build by the way! It would maybe move power peak to a higher rpm as well with exhaust, but that will be trail and error.

Go with a good 3" flowmaster with a cutout installed, or if you plan to continue building than svae money for later and spring for the mufflex 3.5-4" probably overkill now, but if your like me ands never happy don't waste money buying everything 5 times.

 

I suspect the heads are holding it back as well. All of the things mentioned should drop ET, but I suspect it'll run out of breath at the top end and not do a whole lot better.

Those are the kind of numbers I'm running at 5800' elevation, although my 60's are more like 2.05, with 2.93 gears and 2500 stall (although better heads and exhaust). You can see from the sig what it would run at sea level.

 

thanks for the replys,
would a cut-out in the test pipe be helpful even though the y-pipe is 2.5"?
the boss man(my dad) says no on the 3" cat-back but yes on the cutout.

i was planning on pulling the heads this winter and working them over a bit.

i am going to replace the th350 with a 700r4 fairly soon, so now would be the best time to get a stall. i wasn't planning on using the lock-up so i don't need a converter that does. what stall should i shoot for, 3000? 3200? is hughes a decent brand?

the highest i can bring the motor on the converter is 1200, any more and i creep forward.

 

if you're making any kind of power i'd keep the TH350 and just toss in a TCI stall on a budget. a 3000 TCI would be a good match for your power and setup. A cutout would help at the track as would everything else I mentioned prior.

 

i'm not making enough power to justify the gas milage without overdrive. the car will probably be done when it hits low 13's high 12's, no need for a th350. we already have the 700 anyhow, if it dies the th350 goes back in.

 

If your not planing on using the lockup function of the 700 then you wont have overdrive. Keep the th350.

 

as i understand it, it will still shift into 4th gear, the converter just won't lock.
there is a difference between lockup and overdrive.

 

yes probably 500 rpm or so at least, more difference if there is a bigger stall, not to mention the trans will heat up more because of no lockup

 

i realize this and know that i will have to put in a tranny cooler. thinking about it, i really should have a converter that can lockup so that i can use it later on if i want to. that and it's hard to find a non lockup converter used. while we're on the subject, will a converter from a 4l60-E work in my non computer controlled tranny?