Alright well after some much thought out planning my new setup is going to consist of :
-355 at 9.6.1 compression(current stock heads) Patriot Freedom series heads(64cc opposed to 67cc)
190cc CNC Bowl Blended and Gasket Matched
2.02"/1.60" 1-Piece Stainless Valves
.575" Hyd. Flat Tappet Springs
3/8" Studs and Guide Plates
Steel Retainers
- Comp Magnum roller rockers 1.6's
- Voodoo cam Duration 262/268, Lift .468/.489
- Summit stage 3 intake manifold, same as Performer rpm air-gap but cheaper
- Edelbrock 750cfm performer carb
- Headman shorties
- Stock Y-pipe
- Flowmaster cat-back
- Accell HEI super cap/rotor/coil/wires

All this will be running through a WC T-5/stock driveshaft and a posi 10-bolt stuffed with 3.73's... Can anyone give me some possible e/t's and rear wheel horsepower/torque numbers?? Thanks

 

complete shot in the dark pulse i don’t know what im talking about to just take these numbers and throw em out the window but ill say around the 250 hp with the torque around the same number and you will run around 13.7. Once again im a rookie but that’s what im thinking. But it should make a VERY VERY nice daily driver.

 

Why????

 

on the big side for the carb...
i would shoot for a roller cam...
ditch the shorties/stock y in favor of some longtubes.

ill say maybe you will make 250-275rwhp or something like that. prob. run 13.7-14.0's in the 1/4 on street tires.



or you could swap in a stock LT1 with a cam and make 350+rwhp.

 

cam is too small, wrong carb and a stock y-pipe? Sounds like a very mismatched combo.

 

Alright so long tubes, a bigger cam or possibly a roller, hydraulic or solid? The carb is the cheapest I could find with an electric choke, would a 670 Avenger be a wiser choice or should I just go with a 650DP and drill a hole in my firewall for the choke cable? I would really like to see about 300-350 at the wheels could this be possible or am I chasing a dream? Thanks

 

you can put an electric choke on a dp carb.

 

would I be able to take the one off my 4160 and switch it onto the DP?

 

Well from what I understand just changing the cam straight to a roller won’t work. Now once again I am a newbie so please, anyone jump in and correct me. But the thing about a roller is that you can achieve a higher lift without the rough idle... now with the higher lift you will need to also upgrade your valve springs which in turn leads up to you getting the valve seats on the head machined in order to accommodate the new springs. I wish I knew this when I put my motor together but you deff want a roller cam and lifters. With that and the long tubes you should be looking good. I would also up the compression a lil but that’s just me. Im not sure how well your heads flow but if they flow well you should be alright and the motor should be close to 300 hp.

 

I was looking into roller cams and decided that they are out of my budget considering everything Id have to change. Instead Im just gonna go with a bigger hydraulic flat tappet cam Advertised Duration 276/ 284, Lift .504/ .525 or even bigger with 284/ 292, Lift .525/ .546.. the second one is cutting it kinda close to the max lift on the springs especially with the 1.6's adding more lift..

 

have you already got the block? maybe you could use a factory roller motor if not....

 

yes the engine is currently in my t/a..
----------
yes the engine is currently in my t/a.. I might just end up swapping in an lt1 with heads and a carb instead of FI