I got a shot in buying a 1968 camaro it is set up to drag and ready to go.
he is asking $7500 yes that is right $7500.. what do you think??

1968 CAMARO
468 BIG BLOCK
12 TO 1 ULTRA LITE HOLLOW DOME PISTONS
ROLLER ROCKERS
COMP SOLID LIFT CAM
STEEL CRANK
WINDAGE TRAY 850
HOLLEY DOUBLE PUMPER CARB
400TRANS 8 INCH 5500 STALL CONVETER WITH TRANSBRAKE HOLLEY LINE
LOCK DELAY BOX TWOSTEP 12INCH REAREND
SPOOL 3 INCH AXLES COILOVERS
LADDER BAR SUPPION
4 GAL FUEL CELL AND DUAL BATTERS IN TRUNK CAR IS BACKHALVED WITH FIBERGLASS FRONTEND 2800 WITH DRIVER 10 55 AT 127 QUATER MILE

 

I'd think something is very very wrong with it for that price. Also seems very slow for a backhalved big block 2800lb race car.

 

I know the man that has the car and get parked it about a year ago I have seen the car race before and won the night at 128mph but I am just a rookie and dont know anything about it out side of on the street red light to red light I am looking to go faster and legal I dont think there is anything wrong with the car but I have not seen it in over a year.. he works for me and called today and said he was going to put the car up for sale for $7500
I told him to call it sold I am to go get the car this coming weekend i just hope this is a good deal for a this type of car..

Thanks

 

If it had a real front end (non fiberglass) and the body was in good shape it might be worth that price even without a drivetrain in it. What makes me wonder is why the car is so slow for the stuff you say it has? It's a light car with a (possibly) race gas big block, HUGE stall, and has all the parts to provide all the traction in the world. In a 2800lb car 127mph is only about 400 rear-wheel HP. You could produce those numbers with a pump gas no-frills small block. All I'm saying is that if this guy can't build a half decent race BBC, it makes you wonder how terrible the rest of the car is setup.

Remember, if things are too good to be true they are 99% of the time.

 

he has turned into a over the road truck driver his wife is going to email me
some photos of the car I'll see if I can post them on here so everyone can see what the car is and put in the 2 cents worth he told me tonight that the trany was spidered webbed at the mounts and said I should look into replacing it.. I dont know this maybe to much of a car for a rookie driver..
just have to wait and see ..

thanks

 

You are already proving my point. There is no way an even half decent built TH400 should be breaking behind a mid 10 second car. Assume the entire car is built this way. Being a "rookie" I know it's easy to fall in love with a car like this for that price but in reality you are buying junk. $7500 can build you a 3rd gen that runs just as fast and is still street drivable.

 

that thing is a turd. probably like one of our local bracket cars with a big motor, big tires, wheelie bars, no mufflers..... and goes slow. lol

-but i guess they serve their purpose.

 

ok lets say i am 100% "rookie" that has not been on a strip in 25 years.
(ok little truth there) how would I go about putting together a 3rd gen car
that runs mid to low 10's for $7500 or less?

is there a step by step book?...
----------
I am sure your right.

Thanks for the reply..

 

all tubular suspension, koni shocks, trick springs in front, stock in rear. wolfe antiroll bar. 8pt. rollbar.
weld draglites/prostars, hoosier drag tires all around
remove all unnecessary weight
th350/th400 with good converter
9" rear with spool
stock LT1/LS1 engine with cam
100-150 shot of nitrous.

might be just north of $7500, depending how resourceful you are. would be good for 9's though.

 

Ok, I don't want to step on any toes here. I don't think that the list above is doable. Maybe for 10K but not $7500. Tubular front end kit comlete is going to run you $2500. A comlete bolt-in 9" with brakes is another $2500. Haven't bought a car, motor or tranny yet, and your at $5000. Sorry, just don't want to see this "rookie" believing that it is that easy. The last thing you want to do is start a project with that kind of expectation.

 

Normally you get what you pay for but occasionally you can find a good deal for one reason or another.

Used race cars are becoming cheap because people can't afford to run them any more, have lost interest or just want to get out of racing and are willing to sell the car for a good sale price just to get rid of it.

A first gen f-body isn't worth as much once it's been hacked up into a race car like most of them have been. Finding one that's not a race car will demand a very high value price.

If you want to compare prices, look for similar cars on www.racingjunk.com
That's where you'll find most race cars listed.

 

In all do respect, you couldn't begin to build that car for 7500.00 if you owned the car to start with. And you have to be a fabricator, and do it all the work yourself to be in one for twice that amount. I would take it to the track and just see how it drives, not performs. If it drives straight, you can always get more performance. Just because it's a bb don't mean it should be fast. There are some mighty potent small blocks out there. I also know guys that have 15000.00 just in their engines. Cracked 400 cases are not uncomon, buy any means. If it's just the bellhousing area, it can be cut off and a JW bell installed. A cracked bellhousing usally means there is some flex going on some where. The local chassis shops around here charge 7000.00 to 10000.00 just to back half a car. I wouldn't buy it and exspect to just start racing it however. I would at least take the engine down for inspection.

 

It's always cheaper to buy a race car than build one. I could never sell mine for what I have into it.

The downside when buying a race car is that it will always be someone know as else's race car until you can change and personalize it as your own.

My car is my race car. It was a street car when I bought it and I made it into the race car it is today. If someone bought it, until they did some major changes, it would always be known as Stephen's old car.

After doing my own back half, I would also estimate about $10,000 for a shop to do the job.

 

only reason i would backhalf a car is if i was bracket racing. or running quicker than 8's in the 1/4.

 

cant argue with that.