Well, I just found this picture from Cecil County on Saturday. Turns out my car launches like crap. Whats the best fix for this?




The car went 1.58 60ft' on a soft launch. 6.99 in the 1/8. I let off because the hood needs pins REAL BAD!

 

Looks like a lot of body twist. If it doesn't already have them, install some SFC. A rear anti roll bar will decrease the amount of twisting. The factory version will work but an adjustable version so you can set preload would be better. Something without soft squishy mount bushings.

 

anti rollbar.

 

SPOHN has a anti roll bar that bolts on.

 

what Stephen said. Start with proper bushings(if not already) and then get an anti-roll in there. You're wasting a good bit of power twisting the car.

 

I have been told that front travel limiters will help this, my car does the same thing. I haven't tried it yet but, is on my list of things to do this winter.

 

i didn't see any anti-roll bars on spohn's website. My car does the same thing. Why do you need pins for your hood. I am putting on a 3 inch fiberglass hood this spring that is a bolt on. I hope I don't have to put pins in it.

 

Here is a link to the Spohn bar. I have seen this bar go low 8's and I am sure theres faster.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...-Sway-Bar.html

 

I didn't know what to look for either but i'll give that a try. Maybe I can get it over the winter. If I can get into the 1.4 60 range I can go 10.60's I bet.

I need pins because at over 120 the hood starts to flutter real bad in the front. I also have beat hood hinges that need replaceing.

 

I need pins because at over 120 the hood starts to flutter real bad in the front. I also have beat hood hinges that need replaceing.[/QUOTE]

I am parting out a 88 if your interested in hood parts.

 

My lift off does the same thing. It's real bad at the back near the cowl at the scoop. Def. A rear drag bar will fix that problem

 

sfc if you don't have them, i don't see a 6 point roll bar in that pic if it's missing as well. Also you need an anti-roll bar, wolfe racecraft makes a nice one as does BMR. Up to you if you need it stock style or not.

 

I like the TRZ anti roll bar myself.

 

i have the replacement rear sway bar from spohn and the car still launches like that. Will the one you posted earlier be any better?

 

You need the pro drag bar. Big and beefy. It's 1 5/8" solid cm.

 

If you click on the one I posted that is the one you need. The Pro rear drag sway bar. The stock replacement wont fix the launch problem.

 

Go with the Wolfe Craft anti roll bar. It may be more money and or more work to install it, but it is worth it. My car did the same thing with a stock sway bar and once I installed the Wolfe anti roll bar the issue was solved. Check out the videos below. The first video was with a stock sway bar and the second video was with the wolfe anti roll bar. Yet the first video was juiced and the second NA.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4X4xeyip0I&NR=1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQyWeDLQDsU

 

Wow, nice car and thanks for the perfect comparison! That first video is exctly how my car leaves now.

 

does it hurt your car to twist like that off the start line, even though you have a good set of sfc. How much of a difference in time would I be looking at from going to from the stock spohn replacement to the pro rear drag setup from spohn. I just want to see if it's going to be worth it, and the rear sway bar was brand new this year too. I guess I didn't do my homework!

 

Like everyone has stated go with the pro drag anti roll bar to eliminate the problem. But if money is tight you can get by preloading your aftermarket stock style one to compensate for the body roll. Shorten the driver side or lengthen the passenger side sway bar end link by 3/8" or so. All as you have to do is cut the center spacer shorter and buy the next size shorter grade 5 or 8 bolt (assuming driver side).

Not as good as the drag bar but could improve your launch!

 

Thanks, and yours too. Now I just need to catch up to ya. Your car is movin...
Quick question. Did you change torque converters from the 11.00 passes to the new 10.70 passes?

 

The problem I had with the stock unit and doing this was that it did not allow the rear end to slam as hard to the pavement due to lack of movement. But it did somewhat limit the rearend in the chassis twist some.

 

Thanks!!
No changes accept for the longer burnouts and harder launches. I also went up a few degrees on timing as well. But over all the car hasn't changed at all.
The converter is a tight converter for the street and nitrous. I'm going to either spray it or put in a real converter. Not sure yet.

 

My junk used to leave just like that, added the wolfe craft anti roll bar and results are in the sig. Spendy, but it works...cant argue with the flat as a pa ncake on 2 tires leave The nice thing with using a TRUE anti roll bar vs a bolt on stock type deal, you can literally steer your car with minor adjustments by changing pre load. With just me the car leaves on a string and stays that way all the way down the track, when i have a passenger i have enough time to let go of the transbrake button wheelie out a bit and ease out since it darts hard right...the extra 170-200lbs upsets the car THAT much. I could tune it out for passnegers, but it's rare i take them down, so i dont bother.

 

Sold!

 

With the 4-link, I needed an anti-roll bar. When I first launched the 4-link, it was always pulling hard to the right after the launch. Trying to add preload helped a bit but I was putting in more preload than I wanted. I picked up a generic anti-roll bar from an Ebay vendor. Now my car launches so straight, I can almost let go of the steering wheel when it launches.

I use one of these Anti-roll bars. Since it's a generic style, you need to adapt to make it fit but it could fit into just about any car if you can fabricate. Welding is required.
http://www.d-mproducts.com/antirollbars.htm

 

So are you saying that the Spohn/UMI type are the stock type replacements and the Wolf R/C is the better of the group? Seems like they are all the same price but UMI has a deal on them at $311 in the sponcer forum. IS that not the good one?

 

The UMI one works great. It has a bend to go around the shocks for more room. THe Spohn however does not.

 

The Spohn is a good piece and there's plenty of guys running it, just comes down to preference. I wanted a REAL anti roll bar, so i went with wolfe crafts piece, it's made to do exactly what it does- not let the car roll over at all....put in the stock but thicker anti roll bar like spohn's and it will naturally be softer just by design and material thickness...but i'm sure his design rides softer on the street, so in comes the give and take effect of picking go fast parts for a street car LOL.

If you have the tools, the time, and the skillz, like Stephen said, you can buy a basic anti roll bar kit for $230 and fab it up yourself, because my car with the Moser 9" rear did'nt allow the wolfe craft to bolt up directly, i had to cut, grind, made new brackets once i was all said and done so i could get my center section out.