nope just our msd 6010 box's way of adding vacuum advance since there isn't a distributor on our setups. It's still old school as it gets, although it does bother me quite a bit to have to use a laptop to enter the timing curves on this box. I bet I look funny at the track with a desktop, big monitor and a power inverter running off my tow vehicle hooked up to my carb'd camaro

 

Wont be long now til all tracks have a Wi-Fi service so you can download tuning stuff

 

Do these tires look like they would be ok for 3 or 4 more passes? I wouldnt drive to the track on them, I'd put them on when I get to the track. I would also only do enough burnout to get the water and junk off them. Basically just let them turn a few times. To me they dont look good but the guy that used them said these kind are still ok for a few more passes. Not sure if its true though. The other tire looks the same as this one only the length of cord showing is a little longer. Not any deeper though. They are Mickey Thompson ET Street radials. I'm going to the track Friday, weather permitting.

 

I wouldnt run them.. my buddy had tires that looked like that and the track officals saw it as he was staging, and they stopped him and made him leave.

 

you've put a ton of time and attention to detail in your car, don't skimp out now, buy new tires...

 

Lol, yeah I know. I can get impatient though sometimes, and this is one of them. I'm going friday regardless of which tires I have. I've never run the car yet because I keep saying that "if I just get this one other part it will be a little faster". Right now though I just dont have money for new tires. Its just not possible.

 

You can see the cracks in the tires. Do you really want to lose a tire at 100 mph. Can ruin a car quick.

 

Ok, got more question for you guys. I just went out to check the idle rpm and double check the timing. My idle was a tad high, around 800. The motor will idle nicely at 700. Found out though that I can competely unscrew both idle screws and it does not change the idle. It idles perfectly though. Doesnt overheat, doesnt shake or make any odd noises. Any thoughts?

 

baseplate vacuum leak?

 

I'm going to check that today. I want to make sure the new manifold is thick enough at the carb mounting flange to seal the baseplate where the two vacuum ports are at.

I forgot to put why I trying to reset the idle in the first place. Since Sunday it started idling real high when you let off the throttle while cruising at low rpm. If I had been driving and staying at a steady 1500 rpm or so, and then slowly let off the throttle, the rpms would stay between 1100 and 1300. If I gave the throttle a good quick push and let off fast, the idle would go back to 800.

I'm about to drive the car 9 miles to my work so I can check the alignment on the car and give it one last look over before I take it to the track tomorrow. So I'll see how it idles.

 

Hit a possibly big hurdle this morning as far as trying to run the car tomorrow. When I went to leave to drive it to work, I heard an bad grinding noise. Turns out my wilwood rear brakes just barely, but enough, grind the 15" draglite wheels my brother has. The caliper grinds where the lip is at in the middle of the wheel. So now I have to try to find 1/8" spacers and maybe grind the tips of the caliper down a little. It only hits at the very top and bottom of the caliper. Then the part that really has me nervous is that if I still want to align the car before I take it, I have to drive it 9 miles to work, then 9 miles home then 20 miles to the track, then race, then 20 miles back. I've barely put that much mileage on it in one month let alone one day.

 

looks like a late night tonight. i don't know if you have one in your area, but O'reilly auto parts carries the mr. gasket line, and can get you a wheel spacer. typically it's one of those things that they'd have to order in from their HUB store or their local DC, but can probably have you one by tomorrow morning latest (if you call in before lunch time) i don't know about other parts stores, but i'm sure it's the same thing. the mr. gasket part number you need for those spacers is: MRG-2370. if you say it like this "i need a mr. gasket part number 2370, line code MRG" they'll likely know exactly how to get it for you. (i work at oreilly's btw)

edit: i just saw that you're in orlande. they don't have oreilly that far south yet, but vatozone can get you the same parts.

 

I coulda swore they (autozone) carried some in their store. I want to say that I have seen them once wondering through the store. Could be wrong.

 

I got the wheel spacers. The guy that does the accessories department at the dealership I work at had a whole stack of them laying around. Put them on and grinded a few thousandths off the top and bottom corner of the calipers and now no touching.

Pulled the carb off and I'm going to replace the gasket to see if that helps with the idle problem. If not, I'm still going to try to go. It may not be idling right, but it isnt idling that high and it idles perfectly calm with no surging or anything. Plus the way I'm taking to the track shouldnt be that much stop and go traffic.

Edit: Found one thing that may be responsible for the idle problem. I have a mighty demon carb and they have that idle-eze circuit. I found out that it was completely open. Hopefully this was all the problem was.

 

Figured out what the high idle was. Didnt realize it when I pulled the carb off, but saw it when I put the carb back on. My breather tube was catching on the secondary linkage. Easy fix was to take the aluminum line out and flip it around. Heres a before and after of what I did.

Here is how it was. I did notice when I pulled the carb off, that the linkage caught the tube but didnt think anything of it.



And how it is now.



And on a plus note, everyone has bailed on me and I am now going alone.

 

Wow, that was more of a joke than it was a race. I only did two runs because there was no reason to do more. I need to do massive work to the suspension, and I need tires and gears.

The tires I used were my brothers. They are BFG Radial TA 295/50/15 mounted on 15x8 Weld Draglites.

The first run I revved it to about 2800 or so and let the clutch out kind of quick. This resulted in instant tire spin. I got on and off the throttle about 2 times before going to second gear. As soon I grabbed second, the tires let loose again. I wound up spinning from the start line to the 1/8 mile mark. But I did beat the Mustang GT next to me. The times for the first run are...

60 foot........2.451
1/8.............9.892 at 67.26
1/4.............15.302 at 93.7

My second run I only reved to about 1800 and let the clutch out slow. This actually bogged the motor down bad. I thought it was going to stall, but I didnt spin. I then eased into the gas not going WOT till a little over 4000 rpms. I also shifted a little earlier this time. First run I shifted to 2nd at 6300. I shifted to second this time at about 5900. I chirped the tires this time but didnt spin. This time they paired me up against a new Mustang GT 5.0. Of course he beat me. He ran a 13.4

Times for run number 2 are....

60 foot...........2.482
1/8................9.909 at 77.05
1/4................14.9 at 99.44
The DA on this run was 2207, but I'm not sure if that really made a difference or not.

These times are terrible. I'm not even going back untill I get some work done to the car. I'm not sure 11's are possible any more but I do feel atleast mid 12's for sure once I get the bugs worked out. One big problem I had is that the car is all over the lane. I need to check the alignment and see what its like. I didnt get too before I went today. But all in all it was a fun time and most important to me is that I drove there 20 miles, ran 2 runs, then drove back 20 miles with no problems.

 

mph is good for low-mid 13s at best. Buy some real slicks and go back and see what it does.

 

Its going to be a while till I can get the tires, but I'm not going back till I get them. I'm also going to get LCARB's on since my car is lowered right now and my control arm angle is way off.

One thing I was wondering, why do you think my first run was the fastest to the 1/8th but yet my second run was 10 mph faster at the 1/8th even though it was .1 slower?

Also, how much do you think the mph will increase if I can get the 60 foot in the 1.xx range?

 

dedicated track wheels with bias ply slicks and rim screws will be your biggest help at this point

 

mph will increase but I have no idea how much more since I wasn't driving. Borrow a set of slicks off a buddy and try it out for a pass or two if you can't afford them. Even a used set for $150 would be a big improvement.

 

Looks like your gear ratio is a little too short. I would be willing to bet that you could shave off a full second with a 2.73 or numerically lower. You would probably be in the mid 11s'. As it sits now, looks like you are probably a mid twelve or so.

 

Those BFG tires are junk at the track and great for putting on a smoke show on the street. Get slicks before spending a dime on anything else and work your way from there.

 

I still cant decide if I want to do a full slick tire and swap wheels when I get to the track, or do the MT drag radials. The track I go to is known for being slippery and I have a stick car. Reading around it seems like the slicks are much better for a poorly preped track and the wrinkle wall helps to absorb some of the initial hit from the stick, making launches not as violent on parts. But one goal I had was to race the car the same way I drove it to the track. I may be willing to change this one part though. Either way it will be a while and since I have no friends that race, I have no one to borrow from. I also need to check the motor over. For whatever reason it just didnt feel as strong as it should have up top.

I think the exact opposit is true. I need 4.11's or bigger. I'm actually going to do 4.56 gears.

 

I think EvilCartman's setup is about right. I know that he can is using a 4k stall though. Maybe you would be Ok, because you are using a manual trans.

 

As it is now I'm not even shifting to fourth (1:1 gear). I crossed the line last night just a hair over 5600 rpm in third. More gear would let me cross the line at that rpm in fourth which means I'm winding the motor up quicker thus (hopefully) making the car quicker. Of course I first need to deal with making the car hook before I worry about gears.

 

I wonder if a powerglide and a 4.11:1 gear ratio would help? LOL

 

set it up to come thru the 1/8 at the top of 3rd gear. this will still let you run the 1/4 and i doubt you would be any faster with a set of 5.xx gears.

 

Yeah , looks to me like you could use that 4.56:1 ratio, but you would need a powerglide and a 4k stall.

 

You would probably cut a full second off of your ET with a powerglide, 4k stall, and a 4.56

 

The for me to run a 28" tire a 4.56 gear would be perfect. I would get to about 85 or so in third (hair over 6000 rpms) and could get up to 118 in the quarter (6500 rpms).

 

No glides for me. If I was building a dedicated track car, I would probably run one. But my car's main duty is still for the street. Plus I just spent 3 months and countless dollars putting this trans in. I actually took out a Hughes TH350 with 3500 stall out to put this in. Its much more fun this way though.

 

Checked the valve lash tonight and the few I could check were at .025 cold. Spec is .020 hot. From what I've been reading, cold lash is normally about .005 tighter than hot. So that means my lash was about 50% more than it should be. Would this actually make a noticeable difference in the upper rpm's? It was getting dark out so tomorrow I'm going to adjust them all to .015 cold, drive it, then check a valve hot to see how close it gets.

 

i would run 26's unless you already have the 28's.

 

I dont have any track tires yet. I was going to run 28's because I've been under the impression that the larger tire will hook better and the steeper (4.56 instead of a 4.11) gear will keep the rpms where I need them.

Dont take this as me doubting you. From reading your other post, and seeing your sig pic, I can tell you know what your doing. I am just wondering why the smaller tire. Weight? I'm looking to learn as much as possible. I'm not new to cars, but I am brand new to racing.

 

if you are running a manual transmission you will want to avoid a "dead hook" situation. should be able to make a 26x10 work until your getting down to the lower 10's or 9's in the 1/4.

 

If the 26 will work just as good then that actually saves me a little money on gears as I would then run a 4.30 gear. For whatever reason going from a 4.30 to a 4.56 jumps the price up a decent amount even for the same brand and series gear.

The deadhook situation is why I am considering getting a full slick over the drag radial as well. I did a lot of reading last night and every forum I went to everyone was saying that the slick is better for a manual car than a drag radial is due to the wrinkle wall absorbing some of the initial hit. The only tire I found in a 26x10.50x16 is the Mickey Thompson ET streets. I will be on factory rims for now unless I somehow get a bunch of extra money from somewhere.

 

HEAT makes things expand... The metal will get "bigger", and ur lash WILL BE TIGHTER WHEN HOT, NOT Cold... if ur setting Lash when cold, Set it at around ....022 and aim for about .018" hot.

 

i could be wrong on this, as i cant really remember right now... lol but i believe as the head gets heat in it and "grows", this will push the rocker studs upwards and away from the block. which will give you more lash. the cold setting will be tighter than hot.

 

you will want a m/t 26x11.5x16 et street. (if you want to run a mickey)
main problem with running a radial on a manual trans car is the initial shock tends to get the tire spinning, and a radial will not grab and recover the way a bias ply will. and when i say spinning, i mean up in smoke.
however, looking at your previous timeslips, i think you could make the radial work. we have used them on a few bolt-on LT1 cars and LS1 cars with good success.

 

26x8.5 hoosier (actually a little over 9" wide) lots of people going way faster than you or me on that tire...do a search for "outlaw 8.5"

 

At first you said that the lash will be tighter when hot and then you say to set it tighter when cold.

The 26x11.5x16 states a minimum wheel diameter of 8.7 and a factory wheel is only 8.

I'll also look into the Hoosier that mw66nova mentioned. I have no preference to any particular brand. I also have a feeling that it might come down to trying a few different tires to find what I like. Right now though I am limited to factory wheels as the extra $300 or so it would take to get different wheels could be used on suspension, gears, etc.

 

My bad.... i was reading ur post at the same time, and trying to do math with a hangover.... its gonna tighten .004-.006" or so cold to hot... i just did my math backwards.

Shyt... after reading digglers post, i think he may be correct.... I dont remember either right now to honest.. lol i had too many budweisers last nite.

 

we've been running that tire on stock wheels for years now. they work great and if you see them on the wheel they look perfectly normal. i do not know if they sell a hoosier slick for a 16" wheel in the 8.5 size. remember if you get an et street or other tire with tread grooves, they will be sized differently than a full slick. an 11.5 et street is like a 10.0 slick. (or something like that)

 

This is wrong.


We set cold lash at .019 and when the motor is hot it's at .024 which is spec for our solid roller cam. Valve lash increases when the motor is hot, not the other way around.

 

i thought soo wants i read what i said again... like i said, I was too hungover and shouldnt have really been posting when i did. thanks for the clarification